[Hodgdon Extreme]

I imagine it's not possible for an O-ring to be present when adapting from 16mm to 14mm.

It is possible. The Injector Dynamics adaptors (WRX-16B) I pictured above in post #68 use an o-ring seal between the adaptor and the manifold itself. It's a tiny, bitchly little o-ring and very easily torn during installation. Lots of lube and a very straight push are required. I hurt 3 of the o-rings developing proper installation technique.

 

[Kris OK]

Lots of lube and a very straight push are required.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

View attachment 143940

Definitely don't want to tear anything!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Re-wired my fuel pump control arrangement to implement my solid state relay, which will switch-to-ground. The SSR I purchased is rated for 100 amps, which is about 4X overkill - so I'm not sure to what extent it needs a big heat sink - but the one I bought is pretty big. My mechanical relay fits directly under the back seat foam where there is a bit of a recess. Before I even considered a heatsink at all, it didn't seem like a good idea to cover the SSR with a blanket of seat foam... The SSR + heatsink is rather large, so I located it in the spare tire area - which can't fit a spare anyway since I relocated the battery there. Anyway, all that's left to do for the fuel pump is run switched power and the ECU output to the relay.

The stock relay arrangement provides 15 amps of service to run the injectors and coils. If you recall, I sourced my coils from a Mercury Optimax outboard. The Mercury uses a dedicated 30A fused circuit to power just the coils... So I needed to add a 30A circuit. Additionally, my Panic harness has a separate 15A circuit to power the Link CAN-Lambda; so I needed to find a good spot to add the fuses and relays. This is what I came up with. I'm not sure I love it, what do you think?

I like that it's located away from turbo heat and in an easy spot to check the fuse (particularly for the coil power) but I think it looks a little ugly just hanging out inside the engine compartment. A fuse/relay box would look better but I couldn't find one as compact as I'd like. I'm ashamed of how long it took me to think up this way of mounting the fuses...

Next, I started to fit the harness to the engine. Only a preliminary test fit because there is still some final mechanical assembly to complete before it's go-time, but I wanted to get a good feel of how it was going to fit the engine. Overall, fits nicely. My ECT pigtail is a little shorter than I'd prefer - but perhaps that's only because I intend to run the main trunk of the harness above the intake runners. While it'd look neater tucked below them; I think it will make working on things more difficult.

Check out that fat harness trunk coiled up on the shock tower... That is the trunk for in-cabin stuff. Two rotary trimpots, CANbus for my CAN gage, Accel Pedal Position and SSR fuel pump control. I think it's possible to sneak the pigtails thru the firewall grommet (drivers side) one at a time... But that will make it a huge pain to remove the harness from the car. I sorta hate to do it, but I'm thinking of dissecting that main trunk, cutting it, and adding a connector. That way, I can push the trunk thru the firewall grommet from inside the cabin, forward into the engine compartment. Then I can pin the connector. Once the in-cabin "subharness" is installed in the car - it'd never need to come back out. I just kinda hate digging into a new harness.

 

[marko.dodo]

Update:

I'm finishing up the requirement details for my engine harness so I can pull the trigger on getting that built.
Still waiting on CNC time to get the o-ring grooves machined into my throttle body adaptor elbow
Unfortunately, my vision of upgrading my coil arrangement to use IGN1A coils is more complicated than I anticipated:

Basically, the IGN1A coil brackets on the market are all aimed at GTE valve covers which lack the tall humps the GE covers have. Spacing the coil bracket up high enough to clear GE covers won't fit under the hood. GTE VVTi valve covers are expensive and aftermarket covers are egregiously expensive. Also, the coil brackets are mostly aimed at non-VVTi covers and I was not able to nail down exactly what the differences are between them.

I decided I would modify my valve covers as required and simply order a "universal, over-the-valve cover" coil bracket meant for non-VVTi and cross my fingers that it would fit close enough to work. They wanted $12 shipping, which was fine, but when I wanted to add a set of Magnecor plug wires to the order, they wanted $8 more in shipping - which really rubbed me the wrong way. Considering that I can have my own coil bracket design laser cut for $20, I decided to just go it alone.

So I got started on the necessary mods to my valve covers last night:

I'm going to weld in some ~2mm thick aluminum plates into the windows I've created. This will make the valve cover much shorter than original. The coil bracket will sit on standoffs directly above the intake cam cover, and the coils will be bolted to a custom coil bracket I'll have laser cut from 3mm thick aluminum.

My scheme is to harvest the oil filler neck and cap from the intake valve cover, and splice it into/onto the exhaust cam cover.

By the way - those coils are not actually IGN1A's, but rather the 8M0047456 coils from which the IGN1A's are copied. You can harvest these from Mercury Marine Optimax direct injection 2 stroke V6 outboards - along with all the mounting hardware and wiring harness (as can be seen in the rear right of my pics)

dont try to weld magnesium valve covers.
you can have a look at my new GE friendly coils as an alternative

Dodo 1JZ 2JZ Coil on Plug Kit – Dodo Racing

www.dodo-racing.com

🍻

edit:
sorry, didnt see your last post. how did you manage to weld the covers?

 

[_zaclemore]

dont try to weld magnesium valve covers.
you can have a look at my new GE friendly coils as an alternative

Dodo 1JZ 2JZ Coil on Plug Kit – Dodo Racing

www.dodo-racing.com

🍻

edit:
sorry, didnt see your last post. how did you manage to weld the covers?

VVT-i covers are cast aluminum. GE and GTE. Non VVT-i sometimes are stamped Mg on the inside to let you know the material. All else are aluminum.

 

[marko.dodo]

VVT-i covers are cast aluminum. GE and GTE. Non VVT-i sometimes are stamped Mg on the inside to let you know the material. All else are aluminum.

could have bet mine were MG when I had them in my hand together with a GTE cover. easily half the wheight good to know, thought all GE covers are MG.
Actually I landed on the first page of the thread where the covers just were cut off, thats why my comment was a little out of place 🙈

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

I've fabricated/welded magnesium before, it's no big deal - basically the same as aluminum except you need to be ready for it to catch on fire; and mixing some Helium into the shielding gas is essential. Magnesium looks and feels different. Gotta admit the concept of the covers being mag never even occurred to me. I'd like to think I'd have noticed if it were mag.

 

[_zaclemore]

That's a nice spot, but I would try to either jam them under the ECU box cover or tuck them under the dash somewhere. I plan on using stock fuses and wiring (somehow) so under the dash everything will go!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

jam them under the ECU box

Not a chance of them fitting... Inside the cabin could work, but that would greatly increase the length of the power wiring. The coils allegedly need up to 30 amps and I wouldn't want to run that into the cabin; then back out.

Its moot; I finalized it tonight.

My coil harness ended up slightly awkward - it now has two connectors: an 8 pin DTM to connect to the ECU for the six individual coil triggers, a sensor ground and a switched 12V to fire a relay. I added a 3 pin DT with two 16awg power wires from the relay, and to pass along the switched 12V to fire the relay. Here is an overall circuit schematic of how I arranged it:

...I did this because it takes either a BIG connector or multiple pins on a medium connector to carry 30A, and I didn't want to hard-wire power from the coil relay into the coil harness. (FYI: DTM connector contacts can handle 7.5A; DT connector contacts can handle 13; DTP contacts handle 25A.)

Next I'm going to make two extensions: one for the ECT sensor, so I won't need to disconnect the harness from the sensor itself (it's really tucked in there underneath the manifold), and another for the IAT sensor, which I plan to install as close as possible to the intercooler outlet - in an effort to avoid heat soak.

The G4x ECU has a nifty feature for dealing with IAT heatsoak, but I'd prefer to just avoid it altogether.

Then I think it'll be time to energize the system and start testing all the circuits/connections... Imma bit nervous about that. ..

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Welp, carefully began energizing the system tonight.

TLDR: Things are all working so far! Huge milestone for this project.

Started by hooking the positive battery terminal to the circuit breaker and checked for voltage to my chosen chassis ground point...then checked to ensure the breaker actually opened the circuit, then worked my way forward to my power distribution lug; checking for 12.5V from it to all my various ground points. Then added the power take-offs from the distribution lug one at a time - all while holding a fire extinguisher and looking for magic smoke... The car powered up and everything worked as intended. Nice to hear the key-on welcome "chime" again!

Next, I looked over my engine harness to ensure all its grounding points were hooked up (missed a couple, anyway), and then plugged the harness into the ECU, crossed my fingers and closed the battery circuit breaker - whilst my pal was ready with the fire extinguisher and watching for smoke. All good. Then keyed-on the ignition. All good. I could see a faint blue glow from LEDs on the ECU circuit board. Cool, the polarity must be right!

Next I hooked the laptop up to the ECU and tried to connect. It worked. ECU password and unlock code worked. Great.

Opened the basemap to start checking my inputs and outputs. Plugged sensors into the harness to check their readings and see if they're mapped/wired correctly: MAP, baro, IAT, ECT, oil pressure, fuel pressure all work. Oil temp does not - will need to look into that.

Next, I started to test the ignition system and coils... No workie. Realized I'd forgotten to hook up the cylinder head ground from my coil harness. Still no workie. WTF? Oh, I need to hook up the battery ground for my coil harness too! Cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 spark - but cylinder 5 doesn't... Turns out that coil is bad but luckily I've got a stash of extras harvested from my pal/shopmate's stash of Mercury Optimax outboards. These coils generate a FAT blue spark. They'll fire lightning bolts from the plug to a grounding point nearly an inch away. Can smell the ozone after cycling them for a few seconds... Lolz.

Next, let's try the injectors. No workie. Tried the same injector in each of the 6 pigtails before I realized the injector was making a SUPER faint amount of noise as it was cycled - but only if you held it right up to your ear. Weird, usually injectors are way louder than this. Confirmed cylinders 1, 2 and 3 work - but when I plugged it into the pigtail for cyl 4 - injector started making a LOT more noise...more like a normal injector. Same thing in cyl 5 and 6. Go back to cylinder 1, 2 and 3 - it's now making normal injector clatter in all 6 pigtails. I guess there must be some assembly lube in there or something. Tried two more injectors and each of them took 2-3 minutes of test cycling to kind of "wake up" and make normal injector noises. I think I'll call Injector Dynamics tomorrow and see what they say; but I think its probably all good.

EDIT: Talked to ID; they said they've heard of this "issue" with new injectors that have been sitting on the shelf for quite some time. Suggested a squirt of WD40 or similar, an overnight soak, and retest.

So, overall - a nice success tonight. No smoke, no fire and aside from a bad coil and an unmapped oil temp signal - everything working as intended so far. This thing might run, yet!

 

[_zaclemore]

Awesome! Burnout tomorrow??

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Made up my 1" hoses to run blow-by gases from the valve covers to my air/oil separator, and then from my AOS to the turbo inlet pipe. Did a test fit of my plug wires. These are the OEM Mercury wires - they're a bit long and the 90º boot on the sparkplug end isn't as good as a straight boot... But a fancy set of Magnecore wires are like $175 and these ones were free.99 - so there's that. I think they kinda look cool crossed like this, but it's generally something to avoid with plug wires. I'll make looms out of zip-ties to keep them from touching eachother. Bottom line is they work just fine on the outboard so I expect they'll work just fine for me.

I also made a new charging cable to run from my alternator to the relay/fuse box on the shock tower. The original was in fine shape (a bit stiff after getting cooked by the nearby turbo for 20 years) but it was routed awkwardly; I suppose to weasel its way around the ABS pump and other OEM crap that was in the area. I couldn't leave it well enough alone. I've got it wrapped in silicone-sheathed fiberglass heat sleeving, and well-secured with P-clamps. (It's funny because I literally set this up THE night before @Falkon45 posted this thread: Popping 120a fuses after changing coil packs.)

By the way, I added a coil power wiring schematic to my post above, just in case our posterity is looking for ideas.

I also tackled my ECT and IAT extensions. I cringed taking a set of wire cutters to my nice new harness, but it had to be done. Rather than simply cut/splice these two pigtails, I made extension cables for them with connectors. Reason for this is both sensors are in hard-to-reach locations - so adding a new connector in a readily-accessible spot means I can pull the harness off without having to hassle with getting at the sensor itself... I also needed the extra length to place my IAT just where I wanted it, and the ECT connector now has about 10" of cable. This way, as I am installing the lower intake - I can thread the cable up between the #1 and #2 intake runners and get the extension connector ABOVE the manifold. Then install the manifold, then easily connect the extension into the main harness without hassle.

Throughout this project, I've needed to upgrade my wiring tools quite a bit. My toolbox had a rather half-assed assortment of crimpers, cutters and whatnot...enough to get by, but not good enough to do a professional job on an in-depth wiring project. The latest acquisition was a fancy tool for crimping closed-barrel Deutsch terminals. In the past, I've always bought the open-barrel "stamped" terminals - which work OK but now I understand what the fuss is all about. The stamped terminals are fussy. You have to load the terminal into the crimper just right. Then you have to load the conductor into the terminal just right. Then visually inspect to ensure it's all aligned just right. Then crimp. It's not that bad when you are sitting comfortably at your workbench - but it's a whole different animal when you are working inside an enclosure or otherwise have limited access to the wire. The closed barrel terminals plop right onto the wire and stay put. Simply slide the terminal up into the tool as far as it goes, and squeeze. It's so simple and positive you almost don't need to bother with a tug-test afterwards.

I also bought a Rhino Dymo 5200 label maker for creating those nice little yellow heat-shrink wire labels like all the cool kids do it. Super nice! Don't forget to buy clear heat-shrink tubing to go over the wire labels so they'll last a long, long time.

Last, I made a plan to cut and add connectors to the branch of my harness that goes into the cabin. There are actually two: one with 15 conductors for my various inputs/outputs, and another with 4 conductors for my CANbus. I'm going to tackle this with two 8-pin DTMs and a 4-pin DTM, which will be located just aft of the drivers side shock tower. This will give me a simple ~1/2" diameter bundle of wires to stuff through my firewall grommet; and there'll be an ~18" length of it sticking into the engine compartment, which should be enough to reasonably do all the stripping/pinning work to install the connectors...especially with my fancy new DT-1 crimp tool!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

So as it turns out, some of the wires in the branch going into the cabin are spliced together; so I can handle it with one 12-pin DTM. I cut the harness and got one side all pinned. Could have finished it off but I need bigger heat-shrink labels...

I also built and installed the 4-conductor harness that runs thru the firewall into the cabin for the CANbus. I even remembered to do a twisted-pair for CAN-Hi and CAN-L.

I finished my fuel pump solid state relay wiring. It required sheathing the high-current wires to/from the SSR, and then running the 12V control and ECU auxiliary wires up to the firewall. This is all complete except for epoxying a couple more zip tie mounts for securing the wire runs.

This pic shows where the SSR control wiring is routed; to the drivers side junction box. Can also see the unterminated end of the CAN harness hanging down where it's passed thru the firewall grommet. I'll be epoxying a couple ziptie mounts to secure this wiring.

Made the patch harness to go between my ECU harness and my accel pedal sensor. If you recall, I used a C6 corvette accel pedal. It has two separate sensor ground pins and two separate 5V power supplies. My ECU harness only has one pin for 0V and one pin for 5V - so I simply crimped two conductors into the DTM pins for the 0V and 5V pins. Kind of embarrassed to admit this stupid little thing took me over 3 hours to make. Not much to look at...

Last, I installed IAT sensor bung into my charge pipe, immediately downstream of the intercooler outlet.

Wiring still left to do:

Install boost control MAC valve, terminate wires to a 2-pin DTM 3/15/23
Install CAN gage and rotary switches, terminate wires to DTMs
Terminate cabin harness to 12-pin DTMs (pin side and socket side) 3/15/23
Terminate CAN harness to 4-pin DTM 3/15/23
Finalize VR-->Hall circuit for front left wheel speed sensor, terminate to 2-pin DTM
Secure/mount the cabin harness under the dash
Figure out momentary switch for rolling anti-lag (re-purpose "SNOW" button or install a generic momentary)

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Between AC hoses, fuel lines, Power steering lines, wiring, etc - the intake manifold side of my engine is getting pretty busy and I started to question if I really needed the diagonal intake brace that runs from the block up to the manifold. Getting rid of it would save weight and unclutter an already cluttered area. Similarly, I wondered if I really needed the brace that runs rearward from the PS pump to the diagonal intake brace.

Not gonna rehash it all, here, but I discovered the GTE supports the PS pump a bit differently than the GE; and the GTE brace is less intrusive... So I modified my existing brace to fit the same way the GTE one does.
More info here: Is it cool to eliminate the brace for the intake...

I ended up spending about 2.5 hours on it - prolly woulda been smarter to just fork out the $45 for a new OEM one. Oh well, there was some BS and beers in the meantime with my shopmate.

Got both sides of the cabin I/O branch of my harness terminated to 12-pin DTM connectors

Made a mounting bracket for my boost control MAC valve, cut the wires to length and terminated to a 2-pin DTM.

Do you think two M6x1 screws is sufficient to hold this in place?!? (those were existing threaded holes in the chassis)
I'm gonna switch to socket head cap screws, here. The hex-heads are too hard to wrench on.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

After 1.5 years of mock-up and considerations, actual assembly has begun. Painted/installed my PS brace and oil dipstick. Finalized lengths for my PS hoses, terminated them to their AN fittings, installed and tightened. Finalized the fuel lines and terminated them. Found a home for my fuel filter, which is just a Wix 33595 - standard equipment on almost every Ford from 1999-2015, including the Flex Fuel models. Only 5/16" inlet/outlet but I hope it'll be ok. If not, I'll upgrade to a fancy Fuel Labs unit with 3/8" in/out. I'm 75% sure I'll be able to change the filter without removing the intake plenum.

Hung the turbo. Was surprisingly not that effin bad. I bought a new set of OEM studs and a set of 12-point ARP nuts, but cerakoted them the same as the manifold. First I installed two studs about 1/2 way. Hung the manifold/turbo assembly. Then slipped the manifold gaskets into place, pinning them each with one new stud. Then removed the original studs so I could swing the gaskets down into place - then reinstalled studs through the gaskets. Then installed the rest of the studs. All threaded in easily with a light coat of anti-seize. I'd been deathly afraid of the sides of the studs rubbing on the insides of the manifold holes, hurting the stud threads in the process...during removal it'd seemed like there was a slight misalignment of holes between the manifold and head - but such was not the case. Hardest part of the job is carefully tightening the one nut in-line with the compressor wheel. The housing must be off to do it, and you must use a universal and extension - making the whole thing a flaccid noodle. One slip and you'll crash into the compressor wheel.

After putting a few drops of Kroil penetrating oil into my injectors and letting them sit for a week or two, I re-tested my injectors and injector outputs - all working as intended.

Did a bit more work configuring my Link ECU for my specific application. I think the typical Panic Link setup is straight up plug and play - but my setup isn't typical. I realized that going in; and knew I'd need to work through some issues. Turns out my Circuit Opening Relay was not energizing with the ignition switch. After some diagnostics, I/We discovered I needed to shift a wire in the harness to a different pin on my ECU connector. After doing that, I was able to assign an Auxiliary output to that pin, and define the "on-state" condition to switch-low whenever battery voltage is greater than 9V - thus, whenever the ECU is on, it'll energize the COR so long as my battery is 9 volts or more. Problem solved.

After getting that situated, I moved on to my fuel pump isolation relay (high-side triggered via OEM fuel pump power wire) and my fuel pump speed control solid state relay. Everything works as expected.

Next up is to test my fuel pump while simultaneously pumping the 2 year old mixture of E45 swill out of my tank and flushing out any bits of rubber debris from cutting/making fuel lines.

Also have a few more inputs and outputs to test out. Occurred to me I was getting a bit wrapped up in the details of my nice-to-have peripherals like the CAN gage and rotary switches, etc...when my focus needs to be on getting. it. running. ...and worry about the luxuries afterwards.

The woman is leaving for a girls vacation tomorrow - so I should be hard at it this coming week.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Tested my radiator fan control. Working.

Tested my VVTi actuator. It's a lot noisier than I expected. Wonder if it'll quiet down when there's oil pressure?

Calibrated my oil temp sensor. I was able to select one of the pre-programmed choices from the Link drop-down menu.

Tested my CAN Lambda WBO2 sensor. Threw me off at first because it was reading 10.119 Lambda in open air. Read the instructions - which say the range for the sensor is from 0.65 to 10.0...so I hit it with the propane torch. Did you know the blue zone of the flame hovers right around 1.0 Lambda? I guess that makes sense, but I'd never tried it before. Seems like a decent sniff test for a questionable O2 sensor...

Finished up and finalized my fuel pump wiring:

But I tested the pump and pumped the tank, first...

My fuel gage was reading a bit less than 1/4 tank beforehand, and about 3.5 gallons came out in just less than 2 minutes - which works out to about 500 liters/hour. Afterwards, my fuel gage read "empty" and the low fuel light was on...so that leads me to believe the gage is reading about right. The solid state relay really sings, and commanding different PWM frequencies totally changes the tone. While pumping the tank, I was able to play "Taps" by adjusting frequency. It did seem to quiet down a fair bit at 1000hz - hopefully it can pass enough current there because I'm not in love with my relay singing like a songbird.

[EDIT: Just occurred to me that I probably didn't empty any fuel from the passenger-side sump of the tank. I only pushed fuel up the supply line and into a gascan. Thus, the jet-pump was non-functional and not pulling fuel to the driver's side sump. Unsure what that means for my fuel gage readings... The gage properly reads empty right now because the level float is all the way down... But beforehand, the gage read ~3/16 tank...presumably 3/32 of a tank from one sump and the other 3/32 from the other. Dunno. We'll see.]

After laughing about my musical piece of computerized hardware, my shopmate alerted me to this, which is quite a masterpiece.

Last, I tested and began to calibrate my DBW throttle and accel pedal. The TPS and APS auto-calibrate feature worked flawlessly; super quick and easy. After spending 10-15 minutes tinkering with PID values for the throttle motor control, this is what I came up with:

Yellow: accel pedal position
White: throttle position target
Green: actual throttle position

I thought DBW throttles were lazy and unresponsive?!?!

To be fair, this isn't perfect - there is a bit of bounce on throttle closure, and a bit of overshoot with quick stabs of the pedal to a position less than 100%. I'll have to work on this more, but I'm fairly pleased considering I only played with it for a few minutes.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Spent the weekend working on the car but it doesn't really show...the final detail stuff is time consuming and isn't very obvious.

For example, I decided I liked the rearward facing hose connection on the GTE plenum better than the banjo fitting on top of the plenum, for connecting to the brake booster. To execute this, the fitting in the booster itself needed to rotate anti-clockwise 90º... This allows for a really simple little 90º hose to make the connection. But rotating the booster fitting required a new/different anti-rotation thingie. So I made one from a scrap of 0.050" thick stainless sheet metal:

I also finished my intercooler piping (for the second time), which had to be revised after switching from the intake adaptor plate to the Dodo intake runners. Here it is, all fitted up:

I found a home for the purge valve and the "noise filter"; mounted them to the GTE plenum. Had to extend the pigtail for the purge valve. Ran the hose to connect my air inlet to the charcoal canister; still need to weld a 5/16" bung on the turbo air inlet.

This pic is about same as above, but includes every hose and wire the finalized system will include. It all fits. The main trunk of the wiring harness is P-clamped to the lower manifold where the harness is heading toward the firewall, then the harness turns upward, and heads forward over the top of the intake runners. It is P-clamped via the same bolts that hold the fuel rail to the runners. In the end, it is all nicely hidden by the GTE plenum itself. I think it looks pretty good.

No picture, but I put the holes in the ECU box lid for MAP hose and the datalink to the PC. Finalized location of the datalink cable (shown clamped to the drivers shock tower).

I plan to shave and beautify the GTE plenum - but not gonna mess with that until I'm up and running and have the calibration mostly done - just in case I need to make some revisions or use/add hose connections or bolt bosses. For example, I think I'll weld shut the banjo bolt fitting on top... But maybe I'll need it for something else; so I'll stick with the ugly plug-bolt for now.

Oh: I discovered my engine mounts were loose where they're fastened to the crossmember. Only one nut on each side - and both were loose. The other two nuts were missing. My shopmate thought to look for them inside the crossmember itself - and he found them. Only explanation for this is I/we forgot to tighten them when re-installing the crossmember several years ago when I removed to re-seal the oil pan. I probably put 2k miles on the car with those engine mounts loose. You'd think I would have noticed...but I didn't.

Anyway, still plenty of minutia left to finish - but it feels close.

 

[_zaclemore]

I plan to shave and beautify the GTE plenum

Is that so, well I know a guy...

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Doesn't look like much, but the lower manifold is actually on, and so is the wiring harness for the intake side...which means the harness is 90% on and plugged in.

Is that so, well I know a guy...

I was planning to shave off/weld shut the stuff I don't like, do a bit of faring with a flap-disc, bead blast and powercoat. But if you want to polish it all up for me next winter - not sure I can argue with that...