[_zaclemore]

I was planning to shave off/weld shut the stuff I don't like, do a bit of faring with a flap-disc, bead blast and powercoat. But if you want to polish it all up for me next winter - not sure I can argue with that...

As payment I will steal how you integrated the OEM wiring and claim it as my own. So much headache alleviated haha.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

A better shot of the top-end harness routing before installing the GTE plenum. My original scheme was to use one of the spare 1/8" NPT ports in my fuel pressure regulator to mount my fuel pressure sensor, but it wouldn't fit without a hose or some kind of extension. Instead, I drilled/tapped the underside of my fuel rail between cylinders 4 & 5.

GTE plenum installed and everything hooked up (except for coil subharness, two vacuum caps and the purge hose):

 

[Theneil300]

Wooo!

 

[Pnut00]

Man that pic is doing my head in, its cycling between "woo pretty, looks like stock..." and "but its twin cam right... wheres the cam cover..." and back again.

Its early here, i obviously need more coffee...

 

[Theneil300]

Hey are those Ls coils and is that a home made bracket orrrr? Sorry didn’t read whole thread but I like that bracket

 

[reklipz]

Hey are those Ls coils and is that a home made bracket orrrr? Sorry didn’t read whole thread but I like that bracket

They're 1NG-1A coils w/ a custom bracket over the intake valve cover IIUC. I like it .

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Man that pic is doing my head in, its cycling between "woo pretty, looks like stock..." and "but its twin cam right... wheres the cam cover..." and back again.

Great compliment, Thanks! Racey is cool, but I prefer keeping things looking OEM as much as possible.

Hey are those Ls coils and is that a home made bracket orrrr? Sorry didn’t read whole thread but I like that bracket

Coils were harvested from Mercury outboard (then the aftermarket copied the design and called them IGN1A coils). Bracket is my own design. Read posts 18-28 on pages 1 & 2 of this thread for further detail.

 

[Theneil300]

Very cool, I remembered reading that post awhile ago too. Looking good, I really think the FFIM and coil on plug setup is mandatory for the turbo is

 

[_zaclemore]

Very cool, I remembered reading that post awhile ago too. Looking good, I really think the FFIM and coil on plug setup is mandatory for the turbo is

Not to derail the thread, but it really depends on when you want torque to come on or maximum horsepower. COP is nice but the stock coils can hold up to a good amount of power. HKS DLI or upping wire gauge can be used to push it further.

 

[Theneil300]

I meant more for visual under hood appeal, the stock cross over intake on a turbo swap is ugly as sin

 

[Kris OK]

ugly as homemade sin

FTFY

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Replaced my heater core. Unfortunately it (miserably) failed my impromptu pressure test. I'll be revisiting this and trying again but simply don't have the verve or motivation to attack it again right now - especially considering summertime is upon us. For reference, this is a pretty darn good write-up on changing the heater core without pulling the dash:

Heater core change with out pulling dash

Heater core replacement with out pulling dash. This is also using the 99 RX300 core with the IS300 tubes. Removed the tube from the RX core. It took me about 2 hours the first time I tried but it was all trial and error on what not to do. The one I did tonight took between 45 minutes and 1...

www.my.is

I've got nearly everything tied up now:

After snapping this pic I:

• shortened and hooked up the ground wire between the head and the firewall on the exhaust side
• finalized my coil subharness cylinder head ground wires
• cleaned the black schmegg on the underside of my hood
• removed the 5/16" silicone hose on top of the engine (that was to mock up the make-up air hose running back to the tank for my purge functionality...will implement that after I'm up and running)
• installed hoses on the hose-barbs on the intake plenum

To get up and running, I believe the only things left are:

• rig up my heater core bypass hoses (again)
• install my cold-side intercooler pipe
• install upper radiator hose
• fill with coolant
• drain/fill/prime the oil
• clean up the various bits/pieces of junk that have accumulated on the cowl

EDIT: Here is an easy way to prime the oiling system on a turbo 2J. Usually I tap directly into the oil pressure sensor location - but that is all under the intake manifold and difficult to work with. This makes it way easy. It'll take about an hour to pump 6 quarts into the engine this way. Be certain your oil and container is spotlessly clean because this will send the oil directly into the bearings without first passing thru the filter! Also a good idea to bump the starter or rotate the crankshaft by hand once or twice during the process...

Also works great for filling transmissions, differentials, etc!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

It runs.

The default trigger offset value was about 155º off - so not even in the ballpark to get it to start.... I had to put a timing light on it to get the offset right - but then it sprang to life like a well-tuned Holley on a fully warmed up smallblock... My "benchtop" calibration values for cold start and idle were about dead-nuts.

[EDIT: turns out I was using the wrong trigger mode. I had trigger set to "Reluctor". Even though the settings for the crank trigger were correct, this mode defaults the cam trigger to single-pulse, which is wrong. All VVTi JZ engines have 3 pluse cam trigger, and Link has a trigger mode specifically for it - 1JZ-VVTi. Once I chose the correct trigger mode setting, I only needed 6º trigger offset. Also, I tested ignition delay and found 105 uS to be the correct setting that kept my timing spot-on from 800rpm to 6000rpm. I believe the default ignition delay setting was 80 uS, which was causing about 2-3º retard @ 6000rpm]

It settled right in to λ=1.0 and closed-loop compensation was only adding/subtracting a couple percent. However, the fully-warmed idle is hunting ± 200rpm so I need to address that.

Also my fuel pressure doesn't provide readings while engine is running. Works fine when engine is off. I probably have some incorrect conditional programming associated with that input.

Anyway, it already starts better and idles smoother than the old Haltech ever did... But much work left to do!

 

[_zaclemore]

It could be a slightly too aggressive idle control strategy. Glad to hear it's running, hopefully we'll see a massive burnout tomorrow or so, right?

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Had the chance to tinker for a few minutes last night, and got both aforementioned issues sorted out - fuel pressure not reading while engine running, and the hunting idle when fully warmed up.

I had to adjust:
Idle Base Position Table - which controls the DBW target TPS percentage for various ECT
Deadband RPM - controls how much hysteresis and RPM dither is permissible before the ECU reacts by adjusting the throttle
Added a 100rpm idle-up when the radiator fans come on
Integral gain on the idle throttle control - tunes the responsiveness of throttle changes (idle only)
Derivative and proportional gains on ignition control - tunes how responsive the ECU is in altering ignition timing to react to idle RPM fluctuations

Here is a quick demo video of a hot start and then settling into steady idle. Note there is a fan running in the background (I have a 4" dryer duct over my tailpipe, running out the garage door, with a fan to help blow exhaust away from the door opening):

Right now the VE table is about right between 30kPa and 60kPa MAP, and between 500rpm and 1500rpm.

Next up is to verify/adjust my injector data and fuel charge cooling coefficient - basically just command a 10% change in λ and ensure the actual fueling changes by 10%.

Then on to checking/tuning the ECU properly responds to varying electrical and mechanical loads on the engine.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

The woman bought a house so I've had to spend the last month installing laundry machines, TVs, fans, light fixtures - plus acquiring/fixing a fixxer-upper lawn mower.

Haven't had much time to devote to the IS...but now I've sorted out:

• All of the VE table under 5000rpm I can get to without a dyno or road load. I'm seeing less than 1% λ correction.
• Tuned in the fuel charge cooling coefficient - needed only a couple percent change
• Changed the injector data into 3D tables to account for fuel pressure fluctuations
• Maintaining nice steady idle with varying electrical loads and AC compressor coming on/off - the Link G4x closed loop idle works great; I can maintain ± 10-15rpm, even with changing loads, but I've not yet had the wheels on the ground to see how it responds to power steering loads
• Tuned the VVTi proportional, derivative and integral gain terms for quick and accurate response to cam position targets
• Have a decent basic table for fuel pump duty cycle that drives the pump about 10% harder than minimum necessary
• Got the cranking/starting fuel trims sorted out for nice quick starts @ 150º-185ºF ECT. Still needs some work in the 50º-150º zone. This is for 2% ethanol gasoline. I'll need to go thru this all again with E85

Obviously a lot more work to do, but I hope to have the car on the ground and driving by next weekend. There is a local car show on June 7th that I'd like to make - but I'm cutting it pretty close.

At this point, the car sounds, starts, idles, and revs better/cleaner than it did on its best day with the old Haltech. My accel compensation is way too rich (about .75 λ) but it's still far crisper and more responsive than the parallel Haltech/Toyota ECU arrangement I used to have.

More to follow!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

The car is just about ready to be put back on it's wheels, so it was time to bleed the braking system which was all apart for the ABS pump/actuator relocation. I bought a new master cylinder cap and made the old one into the Toyota "special service tool" to pressurize the master cylinder while bleeding the ABS pump.

I quickly discovered I hadn't tightened the brake lines that run to the calipers...which made a bit of a mess... I hate brake fluid!

But it did give me the idea to bleed the entire braking system via pressurizing the master cylinder. Sure beats the two-man operation with the brake pedal; and allows you to move a bunch of fluid in a hurry - a nice bonus for a full fluid change.

I'm hoping to be driving the car in the parking lot in a day or two, giving me the weekend to road tune the car well enough to put some miles on it - which would allow me to make it to the local car show next week!

 

[Pnut00]

My uncle taught me a similar method to pressurise the system with an old bike tube and hose clamp to the reservoir, worked a treat when i first started wrenching on cars. I would be worried i would put too much air pressure into that one lol

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

My uncle taught me a similar method to pressurise the system with an old bike tube and hose clamp to the reservoir, worked a treat when i first started wrenching on cars. I would be worried i would put too much air pressure into that one lol

Toyota manual actually specifies this process for bleeding the ABS pump - they call for 14.2 psi. The gauge on my pressure reg goes up to 160psi so it's hard to say exactly what pressure I'm applying - but it's halfway between the 10 and 20 marks!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Bumper cover fits -but barely. Had to trim the fog light surround material on the back-side of the cover - but wasn't too bad! Obviously I'm sacrificing the fog light on the passenger side; but I think it's a worthwhile tradeoff because the filter is plenty big, and it's an ideal location. This is the K&N RD1460 filter, which is 7" diameter, 9" long and fits the 4" inlet piping.

I wish K&N made this same filter, only with the front face made of pleated filter media rather than the rubber endcap. Oh well, this is overkill anyway.