[_zaclemore]

As of 1/25/22 this is now a build thread.
Catch can setup: IS300 Vibrant Catch Can Setup

fyi mods I compress all photos to about 500kb before upload

I don't know if this is the right section, my car does go faster, but I hate how my engine bay looks. Even with the turbo and what things I have removed from the bay, it still sucks in my opinion. In my expert rebuild (from late February 2021), I didn't measure piston to wall clearance and in return I got piston slap for Christmas(also 2021). So in the downtime, while the block is being machined and bottom end assembled, I decided that I wanted to do things to improve my engine bay. I compressed all the pics out of courtesy.

Timeline so far:
2019: Got the car. Low, intake, exhaust, wheels, eventually did 264 cams and a cam gear.
v
2020: Turbo IS300 GReddy EMU. stock piston ringlands started to crack
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2021: Turbo IS300 ECUMasters EMU Black. rebuilt with 9:1 pistons, TT headgasket, H beams, new bearings, stock main bolts
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2022: I don't want to do this a third time. Block is at a shop being assembled. 9.1:1 86.5mm pistons, same rods, new bearings, whatever main fasteners I can find
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2022 March 7: Few days away from first start! Driveshaft comes tomorrow, should have the radiator back and other parts in the mail very soon!
2022 March 8: Driveshaft came and installed! Time to wait for the radiator to come back.
2022 March 12: First drive
2022 March 28: Second Drive
2022 March 29: First Drive Worth Actually Noting
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2022 April 3: The first drive of real worth because my brakes didn't lock up on me this time
2022 Mid April: Car is dailyable!!
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late 2022: hopefully a car i can actually drive around. Success so far!!

Mod List (All current parts/mods):

Engine/Engine Bay:
86.5mm 9.1:1 Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam rods
ACL bearings
Stock main caps
New main cap bolts
Brian Crower BC264 cams
Titan Motorsport v2(?) cam gear
Real Street belt tensioner
OEM Toyota timing belt
ARP head studs
Tomei 1.5mm head gasket (might be a little thick but should balance out due to machining)
ATI damper, smaller size
Vibrant catch can
Cusco strut tower bar
Shaved and powder coated valve covers
Looped power steering cooler
CXRacing turbo manifold
Comp Turbo CTR 3693S 360
CXRacing downpipe
Custom exhaust
GReddy RS muffler
Treadsone TR1035
GM IAT sensor
GReddy Airinx filter
ECUMaster EMU Black
Battery relocation
FIGS Engineering hood struts
Partial wire tuck

Fuel Delivery:
Single AEM 340
Summit racing fuel pressure regulator
-6 AN return line
Modded stock fuel hat to accept return line
Modded fuel rail
GM FlexFuel sensor

Drivetrain:
AR5 from 2006 Pontiac Solstice
R154 conversion parts, bearing retainer, etc
CUBE Speed JZX110 Verossa shifter
Stock R154 pressure plate
DriftMotion 19lb flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
ARP pressure plate bolts
Stage 3.5 Kevlar DriftMotion clutch disc
Xcessive Manufacturing clutch pedal
OEM Clutch Master Cylinder
DriftMotion 3.5" driveshaft
Stock auto LSD

Suspension/Brakes:
Silver's coilovers 14k/12k
Eibach sway bars front/back
Roll center adjuster
LS400 Brakes
R1Concepts brake rotors
StopTech brake lines
FinishingLines ABS relocation kit
Motul RBF600
ESR SR08 17x8.5 +30
Achilles ATR Sport F215/??/17 R235/??/17
Weds Kranze Borphes 18x9 +35/18x10 +38 (rebuilt)

Interior:
Nardi Clasico
NRG short hub
NRG quick release
GReddy shift knob
Cusco drift knob
White LED conversion
GlowShift gauges, boost, oil pressure, wideband
JDM center console+ebrake
Clarion M508 head unit <---------------------------Needs a rewire badly
Scoshe trim
Pioneer amp <---------------------------------------Ripped out at the moment
Infinity 6.5 up front, 6x9 out back
Sound deadened headliner, rear seats + trunk
Altezza tachometer swap

Exterior:
Painted taillights/ Altezza light delete


Most recent pic (rearranged for thumbnail):

For starters, here's how it looked a day before it came apart(2021 setup), gross:

I forgot to take pictures of the wire tuck that I did for the ABS relocation and DRL relay thing I stuck under the fender. I'll update in the morning or so.

Anyway, the main point of the thread--I polished some stuff.

Before:

After:

So for a first timer it's not so bad, I'm going to go over it again because I missed some spots and it's not that hard to touch up. Smoothed out the casting marks and went right over the Comp Turbo logo. There's also a few tighter spots that I can't hit until I get some cone felt tip polishing bits. Figured it would be interesting, IDK if it really requires its own thread. I also got a GReddy Airinx filter so the color palette is much more in sync.

 

[Pnut00]

Personally i think the wire tuck would be a great start to see on mine, im always impressed sing the clean bay in hot rods and likes where they have hidden away all the piping and wiring.

 

[_zaclemore]

Personally i think the wire tuck would be a great start to see on mine, im always impressed sing the clean bay in hot rods and likes where they have hidden away all the piping and wiring.

It's not gonna look that good, but it will look better than it was. Updated with pics.

 

[_zaclemore]

That's it this is a build thread now.

Made room for the Xcessive Manufacturing clutch pedal by cutting my brake pad. I also had to cut the XM pedal to fit the OEM pad over it, so take that to account.

Also can't forget more polished stuff. IDK what Treadstone puts in their cast to make it impossible to polish nicely, but that's a thing apparently. I actually had to sand it to 2500 grit then green rouge to make it shine decently, the turbo I only did 320 and it came out amazing.

And what the turbo should look like on the manifold that I need to touch up with that $3 grill paint lol.

 

[_zaclemore]

Huge milestone! Learn how I increased my car's value by 100x by this one simple trick.

Got the motor back from the machine shop the other day and after a little snag with a broken piston ring, circled in red, the motor was returned to me and is now be it, tightly, in the car. Seems that routing brake lines and wires behind the head before having the motor in makes for a tight squeeze when reinstalling.

No good pics so here's a screenshot from a video I took. The AR5 is in the car along with the stock weight Driftmotion flywheel, stock pressure plate and a "Stage 3.5" clutch from DM as well. I opted for the Kevlar variant, I figured I wanted this to be as easy to drive as possible. I will update with more pictures in the following days, I was just eager to get work done. For anyone interested, my driveshaft length is 50.5 inches, do with that information as you wish, it's not my fault if you get the wrong size

 

[Steve Theodore]

Looks good so far, and I am eager to see your updates too.

 

[_zaclemore]

Got the new (I think) VVTi 36-2 steel trigger wheel because my keyway got messed up somehow, so my timing map would say one thing and the sensor would say that -.5, which at this point is fine by me, but I'm going to make this thing work. Seems like the inside diameter is too small which sucks, I expected better from Powerhouse Racing. I could have just gotten an OEM one for $60.

You can see the teeth are more square and longer, it's billet steel and I assume the OEM one is cast of some other metal. Another win for the OEM one is that the zinc finish won't fail because Toyota knows how to make parts that work right the first time lol.

The Motul fluid looked cooler in the Driftmotion Supra's reservoir, but this looks like orange juice lol. I bled the clutch and I think it feels like a stock car, I assume that's the OEM pressure plate doing its job.

I'm going to get new shift/e-brake boots, I'm thinking about the Vertex set, they seem nice and I've wanted them for a few years now before I did the swap. Both of my current boots are from the JDM center console that I got 2 years ago.

 

[_zaclemore]

After some sanding of areas that got messed up by my botched ATI Damper install, along with using my impact gun, the PHR timing gear is now installed happily on my crankshaft.

Next to do are the cams and time up the motor. Before I start is the 30° advance necessary or not I forget.

You need Toyota #90311-40020 (2)

I'll update with pics later tonight. Updated.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

botched ATI Damper install

I was once helping a buddy work on his Grand Prix GTP; he had the balancer off it for whatever reason. Anyway, when he installed the balancer, he didn't have the keyway lined up - and proceeded to try and get it seated with the impact. Wish I had a picture of that balancer - because he damn near forged a new keyway into it.

 

[_zaclemore]

I was once helping a buddy work on his Grand Prix GTP; he had the balancer off it for whatever reason. Anyway, when he installed the balancer, he didn't have the keyway lined up - and proceeded to try and get it seated with the impact. Wish I had a picture of that balancer - because he damn near forged a new keyway into it.

I didn't read the instructions about getting it machined so I just tried boiling it like it said in one part and it damaged part of the shaft, but the keyway is alright.

 

[_zaclemore]

Did cams for hopefully the last time tonight. Seeing the intake like that makes me want a FFIM so badly, but it's all in due time.

Up next are spark plugs then hooking up all the electrics, after that goes the piping + lines, setting up DBW, then waiting for the driveshaft. I might order a Koyorad too.

 

[Kris OK]

Hey it’s looking like you will be up and running before too long. I went with the Fluidampr pulley for that very reason - it doesnt have to be machined like the ATi. That billet crank gear is pretty boss, I haven’t seen that one yet. PHR used to weld the non-VVTi one to make it strong since it was two pieces. The VVTi is one piece stock but not nearly as pretty as the billet. I spied a RS billet timing belt pulley too. Got all the bases covered!

 

[_zaclemore]

Cut out all the automatic transmission harness. I spliced the two big wires on the automatic harness together so let's hope it works, seems like that doesn't exactly work for some people. Maybe the standalone can fix that haha. If you compare the last pic to one of the first, you can see that I finally tucked the harness below the intake runners which gives a much cleaner look. I'm also waiting on the gasket for the water neck, so I'm going to shave off that small bolt hole and get it powder coated. I might update with pics of that later.

 

[ill_mannered]

Looks good. Keep it up!

 

[_zaclemore]

Hooked up the intercooler piping, fuel lines and squared away some things that pictures won't really convey. I also ended up looping my power steering cooler line because it's totally unnecessary. What is necessary is for me to replace my rack sometime in the future because mine is leaking from many places. I wonder if that's what my "oil leak" was this whole time.

I love this intercooler so much. It looks so cool and it performs quite well. Treadstone doesn't sponsor me but I cannot express how much I like it, maybe it's just principle.

I also got my reverse lights hooked up, notice my brake lights are on? Notice the TOTAL FAIL debadge? We won't talk about that. When I cut my brake pedal I broke my stop light sensor. I fixed that though.

Here's the broken sensor, you can see the red tip is snapped off. This won't do!

An M6 bolt fits in nicely, but only when it goes in straight.

The bolt fits perfectly where the original part goes. I think it was a green rubber pad but trying to sawzall my brake pedal turned it into a million pieces lol.

Remember how I said it only goes in straight? Too bad the brake pedal is on a pivot which naturally curves when depressed, I remedied this by cutting the bolt.

This allows for the bolt to hook into the stop light sensor hole.

There is the finished project, I just had to orient it in the proper way and it goes in and out without a hitch, I greased it just for extra safety. Having grease around makes you consider how smoothly everything operates. It really makes you strive for everything to be lubed nicely and in this situation helped me from cutting that bolt any further to release any snags.

How's that for a hack job?

 

[Kris OK]

Can you put a bash bar in with that Treadstone IC? I figure the factory one won’t fit, but there’s a few aftermarket ones out there. I don’t remember the brand I got, but it’s lean enough that the CX-R IC would clear it without having to “neck” down for the stock bar.

 

[_zaclemore]

Can you put a bash bar in with that Treadstone IC? I figure the factory one won’t fit, but there’s a few aftermarket ones out there. I don’t remember the brand I got, but it’s lean enough that the CX-R IC would clear it without having to “neck” down for the stock bar.

The only one that comes to mind is the Street Faction bash bar. This intercooler is the TR1035, meaning 10" tall, 3.5" core, so if your dimensions are similar than it might work. I also had to trim my hood latch support. The way mine sits is that the bottom is maybe 1/8" below the lower radiator support and as close to that support as possible, it is suspended by cut up pieces of my old core support along with the silicone couplers. It's surprisingly firm.

 

[_zaclemore]

Small update. With the DriftMotion driveshaft and OEM water neck gasket taking their time, I'm starting to lose it. I've shaved and polished my water neck. Why? I didn't feel like doing anything else on the car.

You will never see the parts where I didn't polish. Though unnecessary, it really cleaned up nicely.

All the polished stuff looks better together, looks much better in person though, these pictures are heartbreakers haha. Anyways, I think I should delete my MAF because standalone life, It would also clean up some wiring and I'd just get a new pipe.

I also picked up this cool Aoshima model kit. It was a real pain to put together and the finished product left a lot to be desired, mainly because I've never done one of these before. I didn't get the Altezza one because it was kinda boring.

 

[_zaclemore]

Got pretty much everything hooked up today. Everything except the starter actually haha, I went to crank it over and nothing happened and was super confused for a while. It'll get there soon. I got the boost controller plumbed up, using the dual port setup:

Still a few things left, my Koyorad should come in tomorrow, I also ordered a new OEM radiator shroud so I can have that nice new plastic because mine is dirty, faded and cracked. Who knows when that will get here, the facility is close to me, but they don't seem to be too quick. I still have a lot to do on the car, like finishing my detail and debadge.

 

[_zaclemore]

I didn't feel like posting the same picture with 1 slight difference, wrapped up those wires on the right side and got DBW to work through the standalone. I also got the bumper back on and wet sanded some parts that needed it.