[Hodgdon Extreme]

I'm really tempted to delete the brace that runs diagonally up from the block to the intake plenum - and by extension, the tubular brace that runs from the power steering pump back to the diagonal brace.

With the GTE plenum, they are in the way of everything; plus I'll need to modify the brace to get it to fit.

It seems like Toyota put them there for good reason, but I'm also guessing many tuners have ditched them without ill effects...

Anybody know if these parts are commonly deleted?

 

[DemonIs300]

I don't have that brace but then I'm GTE swapped. Doesn't that brace help hold onto the PS reservoir? Are you planning to relocate it?

 

[Kris OK]

I remember reading somewhere @01 SolarYellow had said the intake brace can be removed without problem. I’ve searched for the thread but of course, can’t find it. I’d be ok with removing that one, but I’d be nervous about removing the PS brace. I don’t know why, I guess I’d worry all the force would be put on the front tabs it’s bolted to. It the alternator is the same way (front mount/no brace) and it’s fine, so it may be an unfounded worry on my part.

The GTE PS brace ties to a stud on the block just forward of the oil filter housing. I wonder if you could locate a GTE brace and use it?

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Thanks for the feedback, guys...

The diagonal brace contributes no strength/stiffness to the power steering pump, but the horizontal brace is put into tension as serpentine belt tension tries to pull the PS pump off the front of the engine. That simple tubular brace is strong AF when pulled directly in tension...

The diagonal intake brace seems like crazy overkill to support an aluminum casting.

It makes sense the GTE supports the PS pump in a different and less-intrusive way than the GE.

I think I'll eliminate the diagonal brace and reimagine the PS brace.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

is this the GTE PS brace? It's really hard to make out in Kris's picture above:

If so, I can whip one of these up in no time flat. Just a piece of tubing with the ends smashed flat, a hole drilled thru, and bent over a little.

From an engineering standpoint, the GTE PS brace is nowhere near as sturdy/stiff as the GE one. The GTE brace is largely going to be subject to bending loads, rather than tension like the GE... But if it's good enough for the crazy little Toyota engineers; it's good enough for me.

 

[_zaclemore]

The more you delete the cooler it gets. It's a rule.

 

[Kris OK]

is this the GTE PS brace?

99.9% sure it is. I tried to find a less crappy pic on the web, but they all sucked. The engine bay is too cramped or I would have just got you a pic of mine. I couldn’t get my phone in there and have decent lighting and get it to focus.

Just a piece of tubing with the ends smashed flat, a hole drilled thru, and bent over a little.

That’s it, yep. It bolts to a stud just above and forward of the oil filter housing. I bet the GE block has the spot for it too.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Thanks for the quick and informative replies, everyone (except you, Zac)!

Hopefully I can cut/smash/bend/drill my existing PS pump brace to form a new one like the GTE. That'll open up some much-needed space down below the intake manifold.

 

[reklipz]

It'd be cool if you shared measurements of how you modify the brace so I can more easily replicate it.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

It'd be cool if you shared measurements of how you modify the brace so I can more easily replicate it.

Sure thing.

 

[VegasIS3]

This is the toyota part number for that piece: 44444-22090

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

This is the toyota part number for that piece: 44444-22090

About a $35 part, plus about $10 shipping.

Hardly worth dicking around with fabricating one for that; especially if I could find some pilgrim to buy my old GE one to help "defer" the cost of the GTE...

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Here it is. Fits nice.

TLDR: Just buy the OEM toyota part unless you have a lot more time than you do money, or, have a hard-on for DIYing and/or fabricating stuff.

I straightened out the tab on the pump end by squishing in a vise so I could mount a P clamp for securing the power steering feed hose.

I used an angle grinder with a thick stone wheel to grind into the spot welds securing the bracket that originally connected to the diagonal brace. Then used a flap wheel to clean it all up. I used a hacksaw to cut off the non-tabbed end basically right where the original smashed end becomes round. This left enough material to smash flat while leaving the original smashed end to use in case I goofed smashing/bending the new end. A tape measure indicated the point-to-point length of the brace needed to be ~6⅝" long - not including then length of the smashed/bent ends.

The pump-end is higher than the block-end. Protractor indicated about a 12° angle. The VVTi oil line was kinda in the way. So is my dipstick tube - but that's only because I'd previously moved/ bent it inboard to make room for my FFIM and throttle. With VVTi oil line tight and fully mounted, I beat the line forward a bit with a plastic hammer - to make a little room. ..

Heated the pump-end with a torch, mounted in vise @ 12° to the horizontal, then bent it over about 75°. Checked fit, not enough. Heated/ bent some more...but definitely not a full 90°'. Checked fit again, looked about right. Unfortunately I'd been impatient with the propane torch, hadn't heated enough, and the steel tore on the outside radius of the bend. Oops. I really need to get a small acetylene torch for the workshop.

Heated what would become the smashed block-end, then beat it flat, eyeballing to ensure the new flat would be more or less parallel to the flat on the pump-end.

Once flattened, I remeasured the straight-line distance from pump to block (6⅝"). Scribed a line where the block-end needed to be bent over,. Heated, mounted in vise, and bent it until it was parallel to the pump-end. This time I was patient with the torch and the steel didn't tear.

Fits just perfect. [/Allen Millyard]

Lay some filler metal onto the tear in the steel on the pump-end. Un-oops.

Eyeball where the hole needs to go on the newly-flattened block-end. Drill a 0.405" hole. Slot it out about 0.075" with a ¼" round file. Dress up the hammer marks and round off the corners on the belt sander (or angle grinder).

Install. Bend the leftover tab on the pump-end to suit the power steering line. Enjoy the extra space.

To do:
Sand/dress/finish/paint

 

[_zaclemore]

FYI: LexusPartsNow and partnered parts sites do not have this part in stock, there is also no ETA. DIY or used may be the only option now.

 

[reklipz]

I'm curious if it's in stock here: 4444422090 - Toyota Stay, pump, rear. Twt, brakes, suspension | Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS

 

[_zaclemore]

I'm curious if it's in stock here: 4444422090 - Toyota Stay, pump, rear. Twt, brakes, suspension | Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS

Purchase it and wait for an email or call them up. I have a strong inclination that Toyota/LexusPartsNow use the same stock and I have seen their parent company on other sites too. Just double check.