What if any are some ways to reduce the weight from the fat 4300 list weight to something in the mid 3's while still looking like a lexus inside and out.
IS300 weight reduction
JoeyD
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I've seen some stripped cars daily driven. Freakin hilarious, but just like a car accident you can't help but look and see if something bad happened
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reading his 7 posts over 7 years...supposedly he bought a JDM 2jzgte swap with r154 and was doing a manual 6 speed conversion....Calling BS till pics, build thread or other proof...TROLLOLOLOLOL
to be helpful, teck pretty much nailed the basics list while still keeping most of the nice features that drew us to the IS in the first place...for seats look at good fiberglass buckets, steel tubed frame seats weigh almost as much as stock and are not comfortable on long drives....if you're handy with welding lookin into the lotus elise/exige & tesla roadster seats...featherlight and very comfy
not only a lightweight battery but also relocate to trunk for better weight distribution
other than that you start either sacrificing "Street safety" and/or luxury.
QR & aftermarket steering wheel
Stereo deletion
sunroof delete/plug
removal of all interior & under sound deadening
gut the doors or get composite skins & screw lexan in place
AC delete
PS delete(thought some seem to think this will cause rack failure prematurely)
wire cleanup (deletion of all unused wiring stuff)
all that plus mentioned in teck's list probably 4-500lbs
add a minimum of a rollbar to keep things safe and you just added back 50-75lbs, full cage closer to 200 or more but both signifigantly stiffen the car which is no slouch from the get go
real trick thing would be a lighter motor/trans setup...Seriously the 2jz is a monster even though damn near bullet proof replace it with a beams, LS, or other alumunum block engine and the front will look like a fully raised lowrider from your current ride height setup, with a smaller engine it would pull the intertia towards the center of the car, possibly lower center of gravity(something like a 13b)
to be helpful, teck pretty much nailed the basics list while still keeping most of the nice features that drew us to the IS in the first place...for seats look at good fiberglass buckets, steel tubed frame seats weigh almost as much as stock and are not comfortable on long drives....if you're handy with welding lookin into the lotus elise/exige & tesla roadster seats...featherlight and very comfy
not only a lightweight battery but also relocate to trunk for better weight distribution
other than that you start either sacrificing "Street safety" and/or luxury.
QR & aftermarket steering wheel
Stereo deletion
sunroof delete/plug
removal of all interior & under sound deadening
gut the doors or get composite skins & screw lexan in place
AC delete
PS delete(thought some seem to think this will cause rack failure prematurely)
wire cleanup (deletion of all unused wiring stuff)
all that plus mentioned in teck's list probably 4-500lbs
add a minimum of a rollbar to keep things safe and you just added back 50-75lbs, full cage closer to 200 or more but both signifigantly stiffen the car which is no slouch from the get go
real trick thing would be a lighter motor/trans setup...Seriously the 2jz is a monster even though damn near bullet proof replace it with a beams, LS, or other alumunum block engine and the front will look like a fully raised lowrider from your current ride height setup, with a smaller engine it would pull the intertia towards the center of the car, possibly lower center of gravity(something like a 13b)
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51 Posts
EASY!! Spare tire and tool kit weigh a ton!
Hey, just my kind of thread.
In reality, most people just aren't that committed to weight reduction, and there are some very good reasons for that. It can get really expensive and it can take away lots of creature comforts, so it pays to analyze what your goals really are. It's also easy to do irreversible damage to your car depending on how extreme you are. Another thing that a lot of people won't tell you is that you can screw up your weight distribution pretty badly if you don't pay attention to what you're doing, and this can lead to really poor handling. So, a comprehensive weight reduction strategy should always consider all these points.
I consider myself a weight reduction expert. Not so much because I've done the hardcore stuff because in many cases I haven't, but I've spent the last 12-15 years studying it and practicing much of what I preach. Where some people dream of adding power, I actually prefer to dream of removing weight. There are a lot of ways to achieve this, and I'll list some in three categories ranging from easy/cheap to extreme. Believe me that it gives me great pleasure to share lists like this as I think about this stuff day in and out. The fact that there are any people out there also interested in this makes me pretty happy.
EASY/CHEAP
-Remove spare tire and tools
-Remove floor mats and trunk mat
-Empty windshield wiper reservoir of all fluids
-Lightweight battery
-Roll around with 1/2 tank or less of gas
MEDIUM (costs vary, but these mods are 'safe')
-Aftermarket header (ie: Dezod Motorsports)
-Aftermarket clutch with lightweight flywheel
-Aftermarket exhaust
-Aftermarket wheels (choose wisely, but stuff like Enkei RPF01 is good)
-Aftermarket wheel lugs (aluminum/titanium)
-Aftermarket seats
-Aftermarket carbon hood
-Aftermarket carbon trunk
-Aftermarket carbon front fenders
HARDCORE
-A/C delete
-ABS delete
-airbag/SRS delete
-full stereo delete
-cruise delete
-carbon/CCM brake rotors
-sunroof/roof replacement
-polycarbonate glass replacement
-bumper beam removal/custom material
-side impact beam removal
-rear seat removal
-swiss cheesing on some chassis/suspension parts
Anyway, just some thoughts. My own IS300 is 3380 pounds with effectively no weight reduction modifications and I suspect you're going to work pretty hard to get down to the 3100 pound range with this car. Most people just choose to add power and upgrade brakes as it's a lot easier, and ultimately probably cheaper too. But, these are my kind of threads and my kind of ideas!
In reality, most people just aren't that committed to weight reduction, and there are some very good reasons for that. It can get really expensive and it can take away lots of creature comforts, so it pays to analyze what your goals really are. It's also easy to do irreversible damage to your car depending on how extreme you are. Another thing that a lot of people won't tell you is that you can screw up your weight distribution pretty badly if you don't pay attention to what you're doing, and this can lead to really poor handling. So, a comprehensive weight reduction strategy should always consider all these points.
I consider myself a weight reduction expert. Not so much because I've done the hardcore stuff because in many cases I haven't, but I've spent the last 12-15 years studying it and practicing much of what I preach. Where some people dream of adding power, I actually prefer to dream of removing weight. There are a lot of ways to achieve this, and I'll list some in three categories ranging from easy/cheap to extreme. Believe me that it gives me great pleasure to share lists like this as I think about this stuff day in and out. The fact that there are any people out there also interested in this makes me pretty happy.
EASY/CHEAP
-Remove spare tire and tools
-Remove floor mats and trunk mat
-Empty windshield wiper reservoir of all fluids
-Lightweight battery
-Roll around with 1/2 tank or less of gas
MEDIUM (costs vary, but these mods are 'safe')
-Aftermarket header (ie: Dezod Motorsports)
-Aftermarket clutch with lightweight flywheel
-Aftermarket exhaust
-Aftermarket wheels (choose wisely, but stuff like Enkei RPF01 is good)
-Aftermarket wheel lugs (aluminum/titanium)
-Aftermarket seats
-Aftermarket carbon hood
-Aftermarket carbon trunk
-Aftermarket carbon front fenders
HARDCORE
-A/C delete
-ABS delete
-airbag/SRS delete
-full stereo delete
-cruise delete
-carbon/CCM brake rotors
-sunroof/roof replacement
-polycarbonate glass replacement
-bumper beam removal/custom material
-side impact beam removal
-rear seat removal
-swiss cheesing on some chassis/suspension parts
Anyway, just some thoughts. My own IS300 is 3380 pounds with effectively no weight reduction modifications and I suspect you're going to work pretty hard to get down to the 3100 pound range with this car. Most people just choose to add power and upgrade brakes as it's a lot easier, and ultimately probably cheaper too. But, these are my kind of threads and my kind of ideas!
Nice post Steve. I also like the idea of losing car weight. I just wish it was easier. Carbon fiber hood is so expensive, but I want to go this route. I also think a vented cf hood would be even better, since it will allow heat to escape the engine area, which seems to be very well sealed when the hood is closed.
The IS300 is heavy, but at least it's made of strong steel for protection. Even my dad's 2014 GS350 has cheaper materials. Like the side skirts are made of plastic, not metal like our car.
In general, newer cars have way more plastic than older cars. I guess that's good and bad.
The IS300 is heavy, but at least it's made of strong steel for protection. Even my dad's 2014 GS350 has cheaper materials. Like the side skirts are made of plastic, not metal like our car.
In general, newer cars have way more plastic than older cars. I guess that's good and bad.
In my opinion, this is definitely not worth it. Upgraded sway bars do so much for this car, even if you're not looking for power.
For lightweight calipers, the ls400 setup is a nice upgrade. Aluminum calipers, and I believe they're 4-5lbs lighter PER corner.
What a lot of people don't realize about this is the extended cables to run to the back of the car sometimes weigh more than the battery itself, so although you do achieve better weight distribution you don't lose any weight. I owned a car with rear mounted battery in the past and when I removed the setup I literally couldn't believe how heavy the extended battery cables were!
I ran 4 gauge welding cable (about 15 feet) and it weighs about 3 lbs. Ground cable is 2.5 feet, plus a piece of plywood, mounting kit, and a bussman. All this weighs around 24 lbs with the 19 lbs Deka AGM and it is centered in the back tire well, nice and low. The stock battery is 39 lbs, plus I took out all the hardware (tray, mounting equipment, battery post terminals), so say about 41 lbs. I think with a simple stock battery relocate you can change vehicle weight distribution by between 1 and 2 percent.
With very stiff springs and very little compression the need for sways is greatly reduced and is not unheard of. The question is how do you like your bumps. Some cars have been produced that don't have any anti-sways and others have come with stiffer springs and lighter duty sways. The only way to know is try it on the track, which is the main reason I care about weight reduction.
With very stiff springs and very little compression the need for sways is greatly reduced and is not unheard of. The question is how do you like your bumps. Some cars have been produced that don't have any anti-sways and others have come with stiffer springs and lighter duty sways. The only way to know is try it on the track, which is the main reason I care about weight reduction.
Actually, the IS300 is pretty light. It's only 3200, which is fairly light considering it's also a luxury car and not a 2000 Honda Civic. It's definitely pretty solid, no cheap parts. Compare my 2003 IS300 to my wifes 2010 Corolla, it's still made with better materials.
I beg to differ. The chassis is stiff but the metal is soft and thin. It's why you have to be really careful not to fold over the jack points. I've bent the frame rails slightly with a jack stand. That's pretty lame. The interior plastic is nicer than an econobox. I'll give you that. The reason the IS feels so solid is lbs and lbs of sound deadening under the carpet.
The IS chassis is the same as a Toyota econobox chassis in Japan called the Altezza. The IS is to the Altezza what the ES300 is to the Camry. The same chassis, tarted up.
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Not entirely so i am told, the Altezza (Which i have) apparently does not have a lot of the extra strengthening in the chassis that the locally sold IS200/300 has. I was investigating towing with my previous one, but was told it wont tow the same as the IS, and the risk of stretching the chassis was greater.
Same goes for the wifes imported Corolla compared to a locally sold one.
I'd love to hear more. I'm kinda skeptical though. I've had mine pretty much stripped down to chassis and I'm not seeing any kind of structural re-enforcement. The Altezza's are 4 bangers? For towing, I'd think the limiting factor would be the drivetrain.
There are some braces on the rear shock tower. Not sure if they exist on both models.
Supposedly this is an Altezza. Looks like the same bracing the IS has.
This is what I mean about the jack points. Mine aren't this bad but they're not far off.
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1,295 Posts
It would definitely be hard to really knock it back. Given that I would probably leave floor mats, windows, my doors, etc. all intact.. it definitely doesn't add up to a lot when I look at a list of most of what I am either considering or have done in terms of performance and weight savings below
Weight Removal Item Dollars/ pound Purchase Cost Approximate Pounds Saved Comments
Flywheel + clutch $55.56 $1,000 18 lightweight flywheel + clutch combo. Assuming NA Supra flywheel type setup. Triple plate clutch double cost but similar weight savings
Lighter wheels $120.00 $1,200 10 * note that larger diameter is likely to increase weight of rubber on tire and could negate any savings. Also tire manufacturer dependent.
Aluminum coilovers $65.00 $1,300 20 5 pounds per corner - HKS coilovers on mine (manufacturer dependent)
Change to lighter hood $40.00 $800 20 Assuming stock 40 - aftermarket 20 lbs
Lighter battery + relocate $13.33 $200 0
FRP fenders $112.50 $450 4 Done more for aesthetics. Stock fenders fairly light
Driver and passenger seat $16.67 $1,000 60 Assuming 30 lbs per seat aftermarket vs. stock 60 pounds each.
Exhaust $40 $800 20 *unconfirmed* Stock setup quite heavy.
After all that, I would say that I've added a decent portion of that back on to have the car I want with dual exhaust, big intercooler, turbo manifold, infinite baffle sub, etc.
After the seats, more power it is...
Weight Removal Item Dollars/ pound Purchase Cost Approximate Pounds Saved Comments
Flywheel + clutch $55.56 $1,000 18 lightweight flywheel + clutch combo. Assuming NA Supra flywheel type setup. Triple plate clutch double cost but similar weight savings
Lighter wheels $120.00 $1,200 10 * note that larger diameter is likely to increase weight of rubber on tire and could negate any savings. Also tire manufacturer dependent.
Aluminum coilovers $65.00 $1,300 20 5 pounds per corner - HKS coilovers on mine (manufacturer dependent)
Change to lighter hood $40.00 $800 20 Assuming stock 40 - aftermarket 20 lbs
Lighter battery + relocate $13.33 $200 0
FRP fenders $112.50 $450 4 Done more for aesthetics. Stock fenders fairly light
Driver and passenger seat $16.67 $1,000 60 Assuming 30 lbs per seat aftermarket vs. stock 60 pounds each.
Exhaust $40 $800 20 *unconfirmed* Stock setup quite heavy.
After all that, I would say that I've added a decent portion of that back on to have the car I want with dual exhaust, big intercooler, turbo manifold, infinite baffle sub, etc.
After the seats, more power it is...
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2,162 Posts
The 4 pot 3GSE was in some of the sedans, the rest were 1GFE 6 pots. The 3GSE apparently makes similar kW and Nm to the 2JZ, just in a different rev range but would be fine to tow with. Both of mine have been the Gita, so similar to the sportcross for you guys. My 1st one was a 6 pot 1GFE, the current is a 2JZ. I had a towbar on the 1GFE, and although it was rated the same towing capacity as the Honda Odyssey the wife was driving at the time i would much prefer towing with the AS200 as it had better pulling and stopping power than the Oddy (the Oddy gave me a few scares on one relatively average tow weight). The only thing stopping me adding a tow bar to the AS300 at the moment is the lowness, its scraping the muffler now so a solidly mounted bar at the back isn't going to help :grin:
I am told the Jap imports don't have the same structural strength in the chassis, i assume this means there are more layers or different thickness of sheet used depending on the market. It sounds strange to me as it would mean totally different tooling required for punching and forming the panels, but perhaps the cost of the panels was cheaper than new punch and press tools.
For reference mine weighed an actual 3380 pounds with no weight reduction at the time, so even hitting 3200 would be a significant loss for my own car. Mine is a 5MT model with LSD, sunroof, navigation but no heated seats.
What does 5MT mean? Mine has all of that except Nav. Heated seats, LSD, Sunroof, and all leather.
Just a quick way to say 5 speed manual. :smile2:
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