[Hodgdon Extreme]

Looking great! Lots of thoughtful solutions here. Always interesting to see how somebody else skins the cat.

Sequoia alternator... After shaving off this sliver I only had to repin the alt plug to swap my 3 wire 2jz alternator to the 4 wire sequoia style.

A little more info on this? Might like to upgrade mine at some point.

Infinity G35 DBW pedal with the IS300 pedal pad swapped onto it.

That looks simpler than my solution. I used a generic GM pedal assembly, splced on the IS300 arm and pad; then made an adapter plate to fit it to the firewall. Came out just fine but I like your approach.

ABS isn't needed since the Haltech is now reading signals from the wheel speed sensors

Water over the dam now, but you can buy a circuit that essentially taps into a variable reluctance sinusoid signal, allows it to pass thru unchanged, but additionally creates a new 5V square wave (hall style). Thus, OEM ABS stays happy, but you can additionally route the 5V SW wheel speed signal to the programmable ECU for calibrating other features. Just FYI.

 

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Looks nice with the nylon braid......for now.....but that stuff does a fabulous job collecting dust/dirt and without steadfast cleaning/maintenance, will look perpetually dingy.

 

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Looks great!

My HKS Hi-Power fart can sticks out much farther than I'd like...but it does help keep uncatalyzed exhaust soot off the rear bumper!

 

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I recently polished the headlammps on my LS400. They came out great.

I think the magic came from the quality of the abrasives I used.

I started with ~400 grit, working up to 2k - but then moved on to a 3000 grit 3M Trizact pad, followed by 5000, followed by Trizact machine glaze. Results were good as new. These were 25 year old OEM lamps.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Which variant/application of the T56 comes with both a 2.66 first and a 0.5 sixth?

I thought the 2.66 first was considered the "close ratio" and always came with a 0.65 sixth; and to get the 0.5 sixth - you'd get the 2.95 first...

I have the 2.66/0.65 T56 in my car. The OEM 3.73 rear gear was much too tall, particularly to make any reasonable use of 6th gear - but also 1st was too tall leaving from a stop; particularly on a hill.

I swapped in the "lame" 4.30 BRZ rear end and it's about perfect as far as I'm concerned. My theoretical top speed was reduced from 220mph to only 185, but now I can cruise 75-80mph in sixth at an engine speed that doesn't require near-WOT.

6-speed gear boxes are always just weird to me. I like them and then I don’t. I find 6th gear to almost be silly sometimes to even consider using. Not that it’s impossible to use but almost unnecessary in most cases. I know it is a gear to achieve good MPG numbers for the Camaros and corvettes and such.

It kinda depends what type of 6 speed. The "American" type (basically the T56) is just an old school 5 speed with an extra overdrive tagged on the end... Meanwhile the old school 5 speeds were simply OLDER school 4 speeds with an overdrive tagged on. The final iteration of the Tremec T56, installed in the C7 vette was just their old T56 with yet another overdrive tagged on - THREE effin overdrives!

The European and Asian 6 speeds have similar low and high gear ratios as their 5 speed predecessors - just more ratios in between - creating a real close-ratio gearbox that does a better job of keeping the engine in the powerband...something more important with the smaller, higher-revving engines that come from these areas.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

2k RPM is a nice chill RPM at freeway

Sure, if the engine makes enough torque @ 2k rpm to satisfy the road load.

In my experience with my 2JZ IS300 - it didn't. I was at 90 kPa or greater MAP to maintain speed on flat ground. That's lugging, and lugging is bad.

 

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the wastegate is controlled by two 3 port mac valves (one to increase pressure and another to decrease pressure)

I'd like to see a schematic of this. Is it up and working as expected?

but I am curious how the car will drive on the 3.9 diff while in 6th

Try it out! The 0.65 sixth and 3.73 rear end in my car lugged the engine pretty bad anything less than ~75mph, and couldn't climb a grade at all (even WOT @ 1-2psi) below 70. It was much happier @ 90mph @ 3000rpm than it was at 75.

 

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Neat. I don't think I've seen that arrangement before. It seems like there'd be a fair bit of tuning/mapping to get that doing right. If I understand correctly, you have to balance the duty cycles of two valves - and because the ECU doesn't support the feature natively - it won't be as simple as tweaking closed-loop boost P.I.D values...??

 

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Only cuz we're talking about spray foam:

If y'all don't subscribe to that channel yet...well, you should.

 

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I prefer this Gaugeart CAN gauge in this location. It's very subtle in the interior, I like the OEM look of an interior without having gauge pods everywhere.
View attachment 148578

Can you speak to the visibility/convenience of this location for the CAN gage? Having not tried it myself, I'd guess the steering wheel spoke would obscure the gage a lot of the time and you'd have to make an effort to actually see it.

So, how is it?

I have a CAN gage I've not yet installed because I can't decide where I want it. I've seen a vent-pod that replaces the AC vent to the left of the cluster - but it requires the dash to come out to install...I don't really feel like going through that. I was thinking about doing a 3D scan, modeling and printing a pod to fit between the right side of the cluster and the center stack...but that's a lot of work and I'm lazy.

 

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Thanks! Can't remember if I saw it, or only dreamed it - but I think a 2.063" standard gage can be stashed in either of the lower corners of the instrument cluster; either just outboard of the tacho or over/obscuring the PRNDL display.

I'm with you, though. I like the unassuming OEMish look.

I wouldn't dig the ashtray-pod, personally.

 

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For the ignition map I took an r33 rb26 and set the whole thing back about 5 degrees for safety.

I posted my spark map here; take a look if interested:

https://www.my.is/threads/ignition-timing.614578/?post_id=8382447#post-8382447

If you've not already done it, I strongly recommend you verify the ignition timing value you see on the computer matches what you get at the balancer using a timing light - and your ignition delay has been calibrated/verified @ 4000-5000rpm.

the high idle

I have DBW throttle, so I calibrate base idle in terms of %TPS vs ECT.

For 50-80° cold start, I need 5.5-6% TPS; which decays to ~2.2% for 180° ECT...just to give you an idea of the change in required airflow to achieve idle as the engine gets hot.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Here is the 6AN line I made to join the fuel feed fitting atop my pump hanger to the 5AN OEM chassis hard line:

It runs outboard, then slightly forward, then downward to the OEM chassis hard line just ahead of the rear wheel opening.

Here, you can see the direction it points:

I don't have a better pic of the exact route it takes. At the time, I didn't think enough of it to bother taking one. I don't think I spent more than 10 minutes installing it.

 

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When I replaced my wheel studs with the ARP units - they were so long they looked rather queer.

Ended up shortening them, then sending out for new Zinc-Dichromate coating. Kind of turned what you'd think was an "easy" project into a time-consuming and tedious one. Results came out nice, though:

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Big brakes on our cars are for bench racing and mental masturbation. This is not a criticism; I put IS350 brakes on both of mine. Rationalize it however makes you feel good. For me, I just liked the looks of a big set of 4-pot monoblocks.

After doing mine, there was a member here that either had made or was about to make adaptors for Porsche Cayenne brakes. IIRC, he had them done and for sale. He said he'd picked those brakes because they're common and of course - big Porsche brakes... Might be something to search up if you've not pulled the trigger on anything, yet.

We have hills here in Hawaii, and I do drive down a long hill steepish hill a couple times a week.

Reminds me of an interesting project I worked on at the OEM. A while after the launch of one of our new packages (with all-new powertrain), a Hawaiian customer had taken their vehicle to the dealer multiple times for re-occurring MIL. Each time, the error was "Oil Temperature above threshold". The dealer installed new oil temp sensors and verified they were reading correctly - but the problem persisted...

The background here, is regulations require a diagnostic monitor for any/every system or sensor the ECU depends upon to meet emissions. The oil temp sensor was one of those sensors and thus must be diagnosed. The ECU did this by "modeling" (estimating) oil temperature based on RPM, Load, TPS, Speed, etc - then comparing that value against the actual sensor reading. These two must match within a certain threshold else a fault is set. Two faults without successful drive-cycles in between sets a MIL.

Anyway, turns out this customer was a volcano geologist and spend a lot of time up on the mountain/volcano. What would happen is they'd drive up the volcano, do their studies, then coast down the mountain to the next spot of interest - often with many hours of cool-down in between points of interest. Thus, the oil-temp monitor was being exercised multiple times in a row without any throttle input whatsoever.

The calibrator who'd set up the oil-temp monitor had erroneously entered all zeros in the bottom row of the heat-input table, corresponding to zero Load/TPS. As such, the ECU was calculating oil temp based on zero heat input - despite fact engine was going 3000*rpm or more while engine braking down a steep hill - which imparts a LOT of heat into the oil!

Easy enough fix (service flash) once I/we tracked down the source of the problem.

Before this, I hadn't really wrapped my head around the fact that engine power drives coolant temp but engine friction drives oil temp.

 

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Do you want me to post the calibration details for the Bosch combined pressure/temp sensor?

Edit: I think I misread your post. You wanted the Bosch combined sensor but ended up getting something different...

 

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My brain does NOT think in terms of the unit "negative psi".

 

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I’m having a hard time seeing how it would mitigate aggressive drivers here in Illinois.

I could be wrong but my interpretation of the feature wasn't to ward off aggressive drivers, but rather provide an alert to those behind if fairly heavy deceleration is occurring without use of the service brakes - like when he lifts off the throttle at high rpm.

@6speed300 Not sure what conditional logic options are available in your Haltech, but you might consider adding a DBW fault as one of the conditions that activates your feature. I set one of those a few months ago and it was a pretty abrupt:

Perhaps your vacuum threshold would already capture a DBW fault like that? Just spitballing ideas!

Neat idea!

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Does the Haltech have a built-in accelerometer? Can you add one and put it on the CANbus?

If so, set some conditional programming and a simple threshold to trigger the brake light output.

Negative Gs is a direct measure of actual deceleration, vs a roundabout approximation that engine vacuum provides.

You could even calibrate it to enable with respect to speed or some other clever math block that comes to mind.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

Check out the CANchecked CFE18

It's a CAN based input/output expander. Inexpensive and provides a LOT of functionality.