My target idle ignition timing is 15°, but ECU dithers +/- 10° to control idle speed.

Under light/moderate load, I'm about 25-30°.

Under full load, timing sinks down to 15-16° by 4500rpm, then increases to 16-18° by 6500rpm.

I can share a pic of the map. It was transposed from the map on the old Haltech that ran my car for years and years.

There's a youtube channel called "twojay" - dude has a beautifully prepared IS300. He's posted several in-car videos with a picture-in-picture overlay of his AEM - which shows his real-time data throughout a bunch of WOT pulls. His timing sags to 8-9° at high boost (30psi or more).

 

Yeah my timing at idle is set to 16 degrees. I think light load or cruising is around the same 25-30 degrees actually. Timing tapers back towards 16 degrees up near redline. I am only making 5psi though so I could probably cheat that up to 18ish

Full load I need to check though. It’s probably about the same as yours. Was just double checking myself against another. I will try and get a screen shot of my timing map up here when i

Just trying to see what is “safe”

What about your VVTi cam timing?

Happy thanksgiving BTW.

 

Here is my overall ignition table:

Here is my VVTi target table:

 

You should start collecting knock data during wot pulls; and get your knock strategy up and running.

For VVTi mapping - check out last post in this thread:

https://www.my.is/threads/what-rpm-is-the-vvti-switch-point.150255/#post-8382003

If you'd like, tomorrow I can dig up the VVTi map my Link shipped with.

 

I definitely would rather have map sensor load and not TPS position. I did ask the main guy Chris at EMU black for some guidance and he set me with this particular VVTi map to which I believe so far is doing ok. The thing is, idk if the emu pnp harness taps into the factory knock sensors or not.

I have heard some knocking under high load/low rpm situations and I have pulled some timing out everywhere and it did get better. Idk how good the factory Toyota knock sensors even are and again if the EMU is even reading them.

EDIT:
Just checked the wiring diagram and it appears that the emu pnp harness taps into the knock sensor circuits. There are some settings in the knock sensor parameters section. I suppose I need to try and monitor any knocking on the log when I make a pull.

 

Stock Toyota knock sensors are narrow-range and pretty lousy. You'd be well advised to swap to a Bosch wide-range "donut" knock sensor.

VVTi mapping is not as simple as going for best/highest VE, because it can be leveraged for better mpg, too.

Thus, pegging it to TPS makes sense because high TPS implies desire for high torque (VE) and low TPS implies desire for mpg.

 

I will have to look into some better knock sensors. Pretty sure I wouldn’t want high numbers at higher rpms with full throttle. So there is some fallacy to that thinking.

I would definitely like to see your layout in regards to ignition timing and VVTi targets.

 

bosch wideband knock sensor is $57 with connector set AND center stud for 2j block, take advantage of the exchange rate lol buy australian
platinum racing
see post below for even better deal

 

A Bosch 0261231188 is ~$13. EV1 connector set is $12 for 4 on Amazon. The bolt adapter (90126-08046) is $10 on eBay. Probably cheaper to order one at the dealership. And just reuse a nut. $35 bucks for the EXACT same items. Probably closer to $30 if you get the bolt from a Toyota dealership. You can also miscrimp the connector 3 times without needing to buy another connector. Or $58 for 2 knock sensor setups if ordering everything online.

 

Anyone feel like sharing their igniton and vvti maps? Still curious what others timing looks like.

 

Ignition:

Notes: I've properly synched ECU via a timing light to my ATI balancer, and set my ignition delay. However, I've not verified the timing marks on the balancer to truly be piston TDC. I've not been beyond ~135 kPa MGP. My engine idles @ 750rpm and about -65 kPa. Engine has GE-VVTi head with GTE rods/pistons. I THINK it has a GTE head gasket but I've not verified. I believe I have my knock sensitivity and thresholds set appropriately, and do not believe I'm experiencing any knock with this table on either 93 pump gas, straight E85 or any blend between - but this is for reference only. Use at your own risk; no warranties expressed or implied.

VVTi:

Notes: I've really not spent much time with this table so I make no claims of goodness. In fact, I'd defer to the reverse-engineered table Dodo came up with from a stock ECU. Toyota engineers probably did a better job of it than either you or I could. Again, use at your own risk; no warranties expressed or implied.

 

VVTi:

Notes: I've really not spent much time with this table so I make no claims of goodness. In fact, I'd defer to the reverse-engineered table Dodo came up with from a stock ECU. Toyota engineers probably did a better job of it than either you or I could. Again, use at your own risk; no warranties expressed or implied.

Interesting, the VVTI doesnt continue into the higher rev range? I always understood it was advanced with increase in revs as well as throttle, but then my knowledge is pretty limited... and im getting old and forgetting things these days lol

 

SEE ABOVE

Yeah, advancing valve timing isn't beneficial at higher rpms as @Hodgdon Extreme stated since you are moving large amounts of air (see TURBO) at that point. Man, compared to that timing table, I think I need to be pulling out timing. This ignition map came from Chris at ECU masters as just a "base/start" tune but he did tell me that it has some tweaks to it. I think I have the fueling pretty well dialed in by now. I can still hear it pinging under high load and lower RPMS when saying getting into the throttle around 2500 rpms in 3rd gear. I have already trimmed out timing across the whole map but it appears based on your map alone that I should probably get more aggressive with pulling out some more timing haha.

Our VVti tables are more or less similar so I am happy with that. I have been playing with the settings on that map. I think I will leave it alone as of now. However, I think I am going to trim out a lot of timing on my ignition map. Since we only have 91 oct. here, I am a stock GE so what is that 10:1 compression?

 

Man, compared to that timing table, I think I need to be pulling out timing.

Your posted table looked pretty aggressive to me. However, mine is pretty conservative. The ignition table in my Haltech always had a minimum of 15* timing in it. It ran like that for years at who knows what boost... When I got the car, the boost controller was set to 25psi. I quickly discovered the fuel system wasn't sufficient for that so I dumbed it down to 17psi. Anyway, it didn't break during all those years...

I mentioned the youtuber "twojay", who's posted some in-car rips where he overlays his AEM infinity data. His timing was quite a bit more conservative than mine - and he makes a crapload of power - and I was starting fresh with a new ECU - and I wanted to get my knock sensitivity and thresholds all set...

...which is to say; I pulled timing by a good handful of degrees all throughout the boosted zone of the table. It's my intent, soonish, to start doing some timed pulls and see if/how much timing I can add back in... especially with the much cooler weather we're seeing now.

I am a stock GE so what is that 10:1 compression?

10.5:1 as claimed by Toyota and 10.44 per my calculations

MGP is manifold gauge pressure

Indeed. I think it's really only Link that likes to use MGP instead of MAP; though you can configure it to MAP if you prefer. There are some inherent advantages to using MGP instead - it sorta automatically corrects for changing BARO.

 

Yeah. I think I am going to tone it down quite a bit haha. I didn’t even know that stock GE compression is that high. Probably gonna knock out 10 degrees around boost transition on up and see if I still hearing knocking.

 

Well I went ahead and toned down the mid/transitional area quite a bit and so far, no more audible knocking. I haven't really stabbed the throttle yet but under 2-3psi and pretty high load where it would ping before, it is no longer doing so. Here is a rough table now. I still need to have someone drive the car while I tune both the fuel and ignition maps. You can see that hard "L shape" on the top left of the map needs to just be smoothed out as well as the whole top portion but for now its ok.

 

Here is my timing table for my unopened GE VVTI. Running great so far on 4 psi. A few drift events on the N/A section of the map. 91 Octane, 3582 .83 Pulsar Turbo. Still cleaning it up. Trying to be conservative on timing.

a

 

Here is my timing table for my unopened GE VVTI. Running great so far on 4 psi. A few drift events on the N/A section of the map. 91 Octane, 3582 .83 Pulsar Turbo. Still cleaning it up. Trying to be conservative on timing.
View attachment 147383
a

I can’t really see the side of the Y axis. I am assuming that is MAP and that 10 is in fact 10psi of boost? ~9 degrees at that point?

If so, unless you’re running like 70 octane gasoline, you’re definitely leaving power on the table. Around that same boost level my timing is 16-18 degrees. Of course please don’t change what you have on my behalf. Just making observations is all.

 

Just wanted to give an update here. My ignition table previously posted held up great after a 2 day drift event. No issues on 4 psi. I don’t have knock sensors yet so I didn’t bump the timing much I just added 1 degree across the board in boost. 3582 Turbo still came on strong and made good power.

 

Just wanted to give an update here. My ignition table previously posted held up great after a 2 day drift event. No issues on 4 psi. I don’t have knock sensors yet so I didn’t bump the timing much I just added 1 degree across the board in boost. 3582 Turbo still came on strong and made good power.

Sounds great!

 

dommm daniel full lock

 

dommm daniel full lock

Yeah I didn’t touch timing on this session. I actually ended up making 8psi. Stock exhaust is probably leaving 20psi on the table. Ended up making 271 wheel (stock Lexus cat back)

very solid! Ill be referencing that as my upper limits on timing once I get my knock sensors setup and logging. I did watch through the video and saw that. I’m on a custom 3 inch exhaust so 8 psi should put me right around 300 hopefully.

 

Here are my ignition and VVC tables in case they help anyone. Pretty low compression ~9.0:1 GTE pistons and H-beam rods, with a thick GTE MLS head gasket. Brian Crower 272 cams. 24psi boost target and E85/FlexFuel.

My exhaust is definitely a restriction as well - 3" downpipe and midpipe, but it reduces down into my L-Tuned muffler. I think that's 2.5" or 2.75". That setup is only "temporary" (see: permanent) but is definitely hurting me a little bit. Haven't had it on a dyno, this is all through remote street tuning.

We had to stop tuning here as I have overpowered every clutch I can find for a W55/W58, so I couldn't get any more full-range 3rd gear pulls, and it doesn't hook up reliably enough in 2nd. I'm sure there's more power in there to give. Eventually I'll swap turbos, build a proper exhaust, and drop in a T56 then dyno it, but for now, it still runs great and pulls like a freight train when it does decide to hook up.