I think it's battery. I had it last winter. Lights do turn on, but its not enough juice to turn it over. Did you try using jumper cable? If it starts and stays on, then it's probably the battery.

 

jump it, if it works its the battery, if it doesn't....starter....

 

Makes sure your battery terminals are clean and tight too. Make sure the battery has a charge of at least 12.5vdc

 

Fast clicking = dead battery my friend.

 

Seen it way too many times at autozone and o'reilly's. Fast clicking with no start means your starter is ok but your battery is tango uniform. Once you're up and running get to an advanced or autozone or o'reilly's or pep boys and have your charging system checked to make sure you don't kill two batteries. I've seen a bad alternator take the battery twice from not testing.

 

Yes i tried jumping it, still not turning. terminals are tight and clean..

i think its between the battery and starter too,

My Plan: is to take the battery to auto zone and try to charge it up or if they say its completely dead, buy a new one.. if it works then I would know it was the Battery if not.. then it is the starter..

 

Bad grounding from the battery to the block could also cause similar issues. Like you said, have the battery checked out, but make sure the whole charging system is checked to Verify your battery is getting the proper charge from the alternator.

 

Pretty sure your battery. Fast clicking is dead battery. slow click, bad starter. dead battery, especially at that year make and model may key you to get a new alternator. First buy a new battery. your battery is gone.. if it is not gone and can still hold a charge, then your battery life span has shorten due to being drained.

As soon as you get a battery and start it up, here is a good grease monkey's trick to find out your alternator is bad.

Keep the car running and as its running pull the negative pole off your battery for a couple seconds..

If it stays running, your alternator is good and you probably left something on that drained your battery.

If it dies, then im sorry to say but your alternator is bad. look into getting a new one. ASAP. otherwise your just gonna keep on eating through batteries.

Try that and let me know how it turns out.

 

NOOOO! Don't ever do that, ever. You can most likely kill your alternator instantly by pulling off the negative of the battery. You WILL blow the voltage regulator and/or diode pack because when you pull the battery out of the equation, the regualtor won't know what voltage to regulate. Modern alt's need the battery to remove the charging spikes of the alternator and electrical system. Pulling the lead can cause a voltage spike that can do damage to your Voltage Regulator in your alternator. You might have been able to do that will the generators in the 70's and 80's because the diode pack/regualtor wasn't contained in the same unit. I strongly advise against doing this. The proper way is with a DVM and measuring voltage output to the battery when running. Should be 13.2-14.8vdc. There are a few other tests you can do to check for AC ripple, DC current output, and diode leakage all using a DVM and DC clamp on ampmeter. Please don't kill your alternator, trust me.

 

To the OP, if you have a digital volt/ohm meter and know how to use it, I can give you several ways to check your charging system. Test for car off parasitic draw, alternator output, AC ripple voltage, and diode leakage. When you go to an auto store they can only test the condition of the battery and if the alternator is producing proper voltage...that's it.. There are many other factors that can be tested to make sure your cars electrical system is running as designed and a typical auto store can't test for that.

 

I have a tester and want to test the alternator, the battery in mine it testing fine but it won't start. How do I test the alternator with it?

 

Hey guys, I got it up and running. It was the Battery!..
I took it to get it charge after an hour the store rep tested it and it was Bad.. I bought a new one and now its all good! Thanks everyone for your replies.

 

That's good it was just the battery. How old was the one you replaced, just curious, so there is no underlying issues?

 

Well, its a 2006 and I believe its a stock battery (panasonic) and this is my first time replacing it. is 5 years possible?

 

As I'm not 100% sure if panasonic is OEM, but if you got 5 years out of the battery I would say that's average.

Well i work on alot of older model vehicles and that is how i would test for a bad alternator. never fail for me. Kinda crazy that im doing it that way. lol.. Thats hows i test alot of the vehicles that i fix. My bad for giving bad info. Well good that its just a battery. well i guess bad habits die hard. my bad again.

Yea, in older vehicles it may not have been a risk as much, but certainly not today's modern alts. Best to use a DVM or even better a bench test. No worries

 

2009 is250 battery doesnt hold charge

battery doesnt hold charge but thoode battery is good alternator is good and fuses seem to be good i have it jump started and car dies right when jumper cables are removed.

 

battery doesnt hold charge but thoode battery is good alternator is good and fuses seem to be good i have it jump started and car dies right when jumper cables are removed.

How did you check the alternator & battery? Did you have them load tested out of the car or what?