I have often wondered if there is actually a benefit to relocating the battery to the trunk. By the tme you add up the extra weight of 30' feet of added heavy duty cabling and battery boxes and hardware, have you really improved the cars handling? And really, unless you plan on racing professionally, why go through all this trouble?

 

It's all about the location of the weight. One doesn't have to race to appreciate a well-balanced RWD sedan (hint!).
That's why IS300 has its battery mounted behind the front strut. How many cars have you seen that did this from the factory? Even my STi has a pretty poor location for the battery, way in the front.

 

So you have a 4 corner scale setup to perfectly balance the whole car? That's awesome. Wish I had access to one.

If not, its nothing more than psychological. A metal exercise to think ney, hope that your car is better balanced. I dont see the point on a road car. But hey, thats just me.

 

So you have a 4 corner scale setup to perfectly balance the whole car? That's awesome. Wish I had access to one.

If not, its nothing more than psychological. A metal exercise to think your car is better balanced. I dont see the point on a road car. But hey, thats just me.

There's a reason why mid-engined cars handle so well. It's not just 50/50 weight distribution, but how close to the middle the weight is distributed. All 'bout leverage.

I sure as hell can tell that my old IS300 was better balanced than my STi.

 

What's wrong with relocating it just to make room under the hood?

Anyway - az, There's a debate on whether or not to run the ground cable back there or not. Some do and some don't. If you ground it in the trunk, it's suggested to install a ground kit under the hood.

As far as mounting, I've seen them in the rear corners or up against the back seat. Obviously, you know, the center hump is your gas tank so you don't want drill down into that. I'm considering hanging it from the rear deck or just going in the wheel well.

I've also seen people use plastic tool/tackle boxes to use as the housing. There's a bunch of pics on here somewhere...

 

What's wrong with relocating it just to make room under the hood?

Anyway - az, There's a debate on whether or not to run the ground cable back there or not. Some do and some don't. If you ground it in the trunk, it's suggested to install a ground kit under the hood.

As far as mounting, I've seen them in the rear corners or up against the back seat. Obviously, you know, the center hump is your gas tank so you don't want drill down into that. I'm considering hanging it from the rear deck or just going in the wheel well.

I've also seen people use plastic tool/tackle boxes to use as the housing. There's a bunch of pics on here somewhere...

Well now your car will be uncontrollable. You will end up raising the Center of gravity and really muck things up. LOL

 

opcorn: IDC that he wants to relocate it, I wanna relocate mine but for a different reason, what should that matter to get approval? He's only asking for suggestions. Again, not approval.

OP Do a forum search and google search for "Battery Relocation" Search bythread title first, then search by posts and you'll get a lot more to search through. Also just plain'ol google search looking at other cars and how they did it could give you a good idea as well. Good luck to you.

 

opcorn: IDC that he wants to relocate it, I wanna relocate mine but for a different reason, what should that matter to get approval? He's only asking for suggestions. Again, not approval.

This is a discussion forum where differing opinions can be "discussed". He doesnt need anyones aporoval. I am just trying to save him time and money on a fruitless mod.

FWIW google does a better job of searching forums than the forum search engine. When you google the topic, it should allow you to search my.is and give you better results.

If its a mod for the sake of doing a mod. Have at it. Just dont expect a real difference.

 

So what you are telling me is that you, personally can discern a 15 LBS weight shifted from the front of your car to the rear, without changing anything else?

Im not that gullible.

Toss a 40# bag of sand in the trunk and call it a day. Seriously, if you arent dong a 4 corner balance job on your car at the same time, this is nothing more than mental gymnastics and a waste of time/money.

 

This is a discussion forum where differing opinions can be "discussed". He doesnt need anyones aporoval. I am just trying to save him time and money on a fruitless mod.

FWIW google does a better job of searching forums than the forum search engine. When you google the topic, it should allow you to search my.is and give you better results.

If its a mod for the sake of doing a mod. Have at it. Just dont expect a real difference.

I am not replying to argue, just wanted to explain my post.

Yes I agree with you, "For discussion" however he just simply asks for battery boxes, running cables, & location. Not if its going to make his car handle any better. I read this thread and watched some of you pick him apart in turn made me feel that you were discouraging him instead of helping him. Pictures of a car on scales is a form of mocking him IMO.

I simply wanted to give him help by suggesting how to search and find the answer himself. My apologies if you or anyone else felt offended.

 

We don't know even why he wants to do it yet. Trust me, everyone knows why you would or wouldn't by now :lol:

Well now your car will be uncontrollable. You will end up raising the Center of gravity and really muck things up. LOL

Yeah. I can see how catastrophic it would be. Just thinking about it would probably make the car slide off the road. Good thing I don't need a roof rack... Should probably stop driving with passengers and things in my trunk too. God forbid the weight wouldn't be perfect on all four corners and the center of gravity be setup for the track :lol:

 

I need to relocate my battery because of how my intake will be positioned. Iam supercharged BTW so my supercharger intake the faced towards the rear of the car.

 

That seems to be the consensus.

I worry about noise when running a ground wire that far but I can't find the original threads debating the actual topic Good points were made on both sides.

Maybe someone from those threads can chime in if this thread hasn't already been derailed from off-topic banter.

 

Im assuming running both wires and a grounding kit in the front will minimize noise. Well actually noise dont bother me cuz as long as it dosent affect driveablity ill be fine.

 

Connecting the battery to the chassis in the back makes the whole chassis ground. No thickness of ground cable from the battery to the front can match the electrical capacity of the whole chassis. Even if you don't believe me, believe the people who engineered trunk mounted batteries from the factory. They just tie it into a ground lug in the trunk. Look at any generation BMW M3 with a rear mounted battery.

Running a long ground cable to the front will increase electrical noise because the resistance inherent in any cable will mean the end of the cable you run to the front won't be at exactly the same ground as where it connects to the battery. It might not make a practical difference but it's not as good as running it to the chassis in the back.

The black box is a 150 amp thermal reset circuit breaker. If it blows, it'll re-connect when it cools down.

 

Connecting the battery to the chassis in the back makes the whole chassis ground. No thickness of ground cable from the battery to the front can match the electrical capacity of the whole chassis. Even if you don't believe me, believe the people who engineered trunk mounted batteries from the factory. They just tie it into a ground lug in the trunk. Look at any generation BMW M3 with a rear mounted battery.

Running a long ground cable to the front will increase electrical noise because the resistance inherent in any cable will mean the end of the cable you run to the front won't be at exactly the same ground as where it connects to the battery. It might not make a practical difference but it's not as good as running it to the chassis in the back.

How did you hook up the positive under the hood? I'm looking at a buss bar or bulkhead mounted on the firewall.

Likely a bulkhead for negative in the rear.

 

How did you hook up the positive under the hood? I'm looking at a buss bar or bulkhead mounted on the firewall.

I'm pretty sure I installed a lug on the end of the postive cable from the back then used a bolt to bolt the cable ends together and some heavy duty heat shrink over that. They sell that stuff at home depot for underground power splices.

Amazon.com: Gardner Bender HSB-28 Butt Splice Kit: Home Improvement

This one is probably too small. They sell larger ones at 'depot.

Amazon.com : 175471 Ideal 46-402 4 to 1/0 Awg Splice Kit Splice Kit, Heat Shrink, 600v, Conductor Range: 4 Awg - 1/0 Awg, Tubing Size: 1.1" X 8.0". for Use Aluminum or Copper Cable in Direct Burial Applications. : Sports & Outdoors


For ground, any bolt in the back will do as long as you clean the paint off.

 

There is a really fantastic website on this that gets into the differences and recommendations to be NHRA compliant as well as what is safest. I feel like I've posted it in the past, and will try to find the link.

Definitely go with screw connections as they will handle vibration + heat better than straight soldering on a connection that could come loose with heat.

I went with a Taylor battery box, cable+fuse for the power along with a separate calbe to the starter and negative in the trunk. I didn't want a crazy high amperage circuit breaker off the alternator but still wanted max current to the starter so I split them up and run lower power breaker for alternator/main accessories

 

Interesting. I planned on a simple breaker at the battery and making my own mount/box.

Let me know about that link. Compliance rules are always helpful! There's a reason behind everything.

 

I'm pretty sure I installed a lug on the end of the postive cable from the back then used a bolt to bolt the cable ends together and some heavy duty heat shrink over that. They sell that stuff at home depot for underground power splices.

Amazon.com: Gardner Bender HSB-28 Butt Splice Kit: Home Improvement Amazon.com: Gardner Bender HSB-28 Butt Splice Kit: Home Improvement
This one is probably too small. They sell larger ones at 'depot.

Amazon.com : 175471 Ideal 46-402 4 to 1/0 Awg Splice Kit Splice Kit, Heat Shrink, 600v, Conductor Range: 4 Awg - 1/0 Awg, Tubing Size: 1.1" X 8.0". for Use Aluminum or Copper Cable in Direct Burial Applications. : Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com : 175471 Ideal 46-402 4 to 1/0 Awg Splice Kit Splice Kit, Heat Shrink, 600v, Conductor Range: 4 Awg - 1/0 Awg, Tubing Size: 1.1" X 8.0". for Use Aluminum or Copper Cable in Direct Burial Applications. : Sports & Outdoors

For ground, any bolt in the back will do as long as you clean the paint off.

Gotcha. Thanks! That was my first thought but then started looking at all the accessories I have... probably just mount a buss on the firewall.

 

I have... probably just mount a buss on the firewall.

I have a breaker on the battery so any short of the high current side will just throw the breaker and it'll unthrow automatically when the short goes away and it cools down.

I went with a Taylor battery box, cable+fuse for the power along with a separate calbe to the starter and negative in the trunk.

Last time I did this, with a conventional battery, I used a box and a fuse. Fuses work fine but when they go, you have to fish around and replace them. The thermo-reset breaker resets automatically. The battery I'm using is sealed so, there's no worry about gas buildup or acid leakage. If I was using a conventional lead acid. I'd for sure use a box. The box is supposed to be vented outside the car too to prevent hydrogen gas buildup.

I'm just tapping into the factory 12v position and see no reason to add additional cabling. Hell the NA GE engines should be harder to start than the low compression turbo engine. BMW uses a engine compartment located box to terminate the battery cable in. Wonder if that would work here?

 

I used this for my battery post up front. JEGS Performance Products 10315, JEGS Remote Battery Jumper Terminals | JEGS Performance Products
I built a mount off the firewall for it. I bought a negative one and then thought it was actually kind of pointless since you can use the frame or nut on suspension so never installed it.

I used this battery box since it met NHRA requirements http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-48100/overview/

The problem where I live is cold weather and I could see it pulling 200 amps when it's cold. http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/fall/electric/start_test.pdf With a 4 gauge or even 2 gauge wire over 12-15 feet would be over 1 volt loss. Much more than stock. I went with 1/0 for starter which keeps it closer to the stock voltage losses.

The way mine is hooked up will provide good fire safety at the track and protection from surges. A much better overview on various ways to hook up remote mount battery and NHRA accepted vs. better than NHRA with having to use cut-off is already on this site

Safe Battery Installation Guidelines

Excerpts of his general rules -

All systems are slightly different, but here are general rules:

1.) Route the wires safely. Do not run any electrical wires where they can chaff or rub against things, be easily cut or damaged, and against fuel or brake lines.

2.) Never run high current leads through flammable materials or inside vehicle passenger compartments. The exception to this is if the cable meets proper safety specifications for flammability, thermal, and insulation ruggedness. The cable should generally be protected or armored inside the car, or where it might contact damaged in an accident.

3.) Always use the appropriate fuses, fuse links, or circuit breakers on SOURCE ends of wires as close to the source as possible. The proper size protection is always based on maximum current draw in normal conditions, assuming the wire is properly sized. There are two sources. The alternator is a source, the battery is a source.

4.) DO NOT size protection based on wire current rating for the wire type and gauge, unless wire gauge is running right at load current maximum (which is unsafe anyway).

5.) Fuse ratings are not hard limits. A typical 100-ampere fuse takes up to 120 seconds to blow at 200% overload, but can also fatigue or blow at less than actual fuse rating if in a hot environment, if the holder contacts are loose or dirty, or if has been subject to short overloads.

6.) A fuse, switch, or breaker should never be placed so the battery can be removed accidentally while the alternator is running. This, like any loss of battery connection on a running engine, can spike the electrical system and ruin your expensive electronics.

7.) Fuses and breakers can not be paralleled to reliably increase rating. If you parallel connect a fuse or breaker, it does NOT necessarily double the rating. This is because a fuse or breaker will not have the same exact resistance of another identical part, so current will probably not divide equally between them. This isn't harmful, it just means the system might be fused lighter than you assume it is fused.

8.) Fuse links are most reliable to prevent false failures if very high current, but are only for fire protection. Bolted fuses, like marine fuses, are most reliable high current at lower currents.

9.) For a ground wire longer than ~4 feet, the chassis of a vehicle generally has much less resistance than any size copper you can run. The only possible problem is getting a solid connection to the chassis.

10.) The block of a vehicle has far less resistance than any copper you can run.

11.) In order of engine ground effectiveness, it is block, heads, bell housing, and timing cover. All are OK. The intake is a bad ground point.

12.) The frames and sub frames are good ground points, if properly attached. The firewall is a good ground point, as is any body welded panel, if a good connection is made.



Actual excerpts from NHRA below- the master cutoff thing I'm not sold on... I bought one but didn't actually install it since it would be dumb and unsafe for daily driving. I have provisions in cable length to add in temporarily if the tech decides to make it a requirement at the track.

http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.


8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

 

6.) A fuse, switch, or breaker should never be placed so the battery can be removed accidentally while the alternator is running. This, like any loss of battery connection on a running engine, can spike the electrical system and ruin your expensive electronics.

This is a good point.

As far as I can tell, no manufacturer who rear-mounts has a fuse near the Battery. Maybe this is why. It suggests I need to move my breaker to the front. That sort of defeats the purpose of having it though because I'm trying to prevent the cable from melting/burning. Another thought though is that if the breaker is throwing it's because there's a short between the battery and front of the car and that the short will also snub off the alternator too. I'll have to think about it. I don't actually expect to ever use my breaker.

 

Both BMW and Audi have fuses next to the battery. Actually, BMW has a pyro fuse that blows up in case of an accident to sever battery connection. My Audi has some kind of monitoring device sitting right on top of the battery to manage electricity consumption to non-critical devices, should the battery health deteriorate.

 

The bottom diagram is essentially what I have, minus the cut off and the cable to the starter. I can see how spiking could be a real problem if you use a cut-off switch like that.

If you look at the charging circuit for the IS300. The alternator connects directly to the battery through a 120 amp fuse. I'm not particularly worried about the battery becoming disconnected from the charging system. I consider it unlikely. More likely is something that causes the battery cable to short out to the chassis. If that happens on the alternator side of the 120 amp ALT fuse, the alternator power wire will melt and the 120 will pop. If it happens on the battery side of the 120 amp fuse. Both the 120 and my breaker will disconnect. The 120 permanently.

If you were only going to use the fuse near the battery and no fuses up front, the alternator could keep going and spike. Whether that is done by a cut-off/breaker/fuse or whatever at the battery and nothing up front, it could be bad news.

I don't think you're considering the fact that if the battery cable grounds out, the entire cable , the 1/2 going back to the battery and the front 1/2 going to the alt will be grounded. Since the alt is fused. It should pop too.

I agree that battery disconnect is potentially problematic.

Both BMW and Audi have fuses next to the battery. Actually, BMW has a pyro fuse that blows up in case of an accident to sever battery connection. My Audi has some kind of monitoring device sitting right on top of the battery to manage electricity consumption to non-critical devices, should the battery health deteriorate.

I just looked at the diagram. You're right some of the BMW's use a fusible link. My E36 M3 though didn't. Which is kinda surprising. That means BMW's with fusible links are wired like my rear mount battery currently is. I'm not sure if my buddy's E46 uses a link or not. Learn something new every day.

 

Fantastic info. I feel comfortable knowing I can do it all safely now.

I might be going overboard but I planned on just keeping the current 4 gauge positive cable for my amp and hooking it up to the trunk battery. No need to replace if I don't have to. Unless 0ga is necessary?

Bear with me, instead of one large battery in the spare well, I'm thinking of installing two smaller ones, in parallel, at each rear corner. Basically where the jack goes on the left and the other cavity on the right. I haven't measured clearance yet but saving space is the main goal.

Thoughts about that? I feel the need to put a spare tire in considering I do drive through amish country often with little to no cell service.

 

Thoughts about that?

The small Odyssey battery's don't have enough current capacity. They'll start the car but even just sitting there for 20 minutes with the brake lights on will kill them. 2 in parallel probably would be enough. I really don't know if there are any issues with trying to charge them in parallel. Many trucks will run batteries in series to get 24 volts.

I feel the need to put a spare tire in considering I do drive through amish country often with little to no cell service.

I keep a plug kit and a manual tire pump in my car. Couple cans of fix-a-flat too. Many modern performance cars don't even have a spare. They have a pump and fix-a-flat to get you to your destination.

How often do you have passengers? I mounted the battery to the floor behind the passenger seat in my WRX.

 

The small Odyssey battery's don't have enough current capacity. They'll start the car but even just sitting there for 20 minutes with the brake lights on will kill them. 2 in parallel probably would be enough. I really don't know if there are any issues with trying to charge them in parallel. Many trucks will run batteries in series to get 24 volts.


I keep a plug kit and a manual tire pump in my car. Couple cans of fix-a-flat too. Many modern performance cars don't even have a spare. They have a pump and fix-a-flat to get you to your destination.

How often do you have passengers? I mounted the battery to the floor behind the passenger seat in my WRX.

Not many passengers in anymore. Everyone I know is afraid of the car now :lol:

I'm going to dive deeper into the options this weekend, take some measurements and start compiling battery stats. I think charging wouldn't be an issue but may need to upgrade the alternator wire.

I actually have 11 semi trucks all with 4 huge batteries in parallel. I think some older ones had 24v systems or just a 24v starter. Sometimes I wish they still had 24v starters when it gets cold!

 

Ooookay - So help me out ONE more time :lol: I'm so out of touch with electrical components nowadays.

I have some 0 Gauge welding wire coming to put the battery in the trunk. I'm not doing the parallel setup. Plans are to put a breaker at the battery and an extra inline fuse on the firewall pre-buss. I bought a 4 post buss to also mount on the firewall.

My new questions are what amp fuse and breaker? Should I just go ahead and replace the starter cable while I'm at it?

 

My new questions are what amp fuse and breaker? Should I just go ahead and replace the starter cable while I'm at it?

I wouldn't and didn't. The amount of current to the starter doesn't change.

I'm not clear why you'd want a front fuse. There's already a 120 between the battery and alternator. As long as the rear breaker goes before the wire melts. I think you'd be fine. I'm not sure how much the "engine still running while battery is disconnected" applies to us. All the diagrams had battery cut-off switches which I don't have and I assume you don't too. I don't expect my breaker to ever trip except in some catastrophic problem.

 

The extra fuse was an overkill idea, I admit. I'd rather blow an easy access fuse than a factory one but either way still replacing a fuse. So 150amp breaker is all I need?

I like cutoff switches when I have to weld on a chassis. I don't anticipate that happening here :lol:

I hav a factory sized battery in teh trunk in teh spare tire area. i have it in a battery tray and bolted down, outside of that it is open.

I upgraded alternator wire to run up the side under the hood, around the back side of the fuse box to meet up with the power wire from the battery. I used 4ga copper wire and mounted it to the starter wire, to the fuse box wire and the new alternator wire just on teh other side of the grommet. i ran my power cable under the door sill. i will say if you go down this road, sield your wire somehow, copper foil or something to keep the electrical interference out of the stereo. i removed the factory amp and made a ground on teh otherside of the chassis, but it's still in my right speaker.

i too did 2 4ga grounds to the chassis in the trunk, all grounds are to the chassis. make sure you do a ground kit or something if you go that route to beef up all grounds from motor to chassis.

i purchased an alternator cable from autoshack just make sure its 4ga and long enough. the power cable is 4ga copper with crimped and soldered ends. if there isn't a good connection it can cook. i ran into that using a crimp only audio system style ring connector for the alternator wire.. cooked the snot out of it. bought one from autoshack for way less and it's been solid for YEARS...

I like the idea of the alternator cable. I do want to reroute it at least since it does run close to the turbo and I've already noticed plastics getting brittle in that area. Including the alternator cable loom.

I actually just got rid of my current ground kit but do plan on adding my own "kit". Definitely replacing the block ground and maybe adding another. As for the trunk, I plan on a bulkhead ground but a double ground doesn't sound bad either.

As for the stereo, I completely overhauled every component and I'm grounded somewhere in the dash. Not running a head unit.

Did you guys use 4ga + to the trunk?

 

I hav a factory sized battery in teh trunk in teh spare tire area. i have it in a battery tray and bolted down, outside of that it is open.

I upgraded alternator wire to run up the side under the hood, around the back side of the fuse box to meet up with the power wire from the battery. I used 4ga copper wire and mounted it to the starter wire, to the fuse box wire and the new alternator wire just on teh other side of the grommet. i ran my power cable under the door sill. i will say if you go down this road, sield your wire somehow, copper foil or something to keep the electrical interference out of the stereo. i removed the factory amp and made a ground on teh otherside of the chassis, but it's still in my right speaker.

i too did 2 4ga grounds to the chassis in the trunk, all grounds are to the chassis. make sure you do a ground kit or something if you go that route to beef up all grounds from motor to chassis.

i purchased an alternator cable from autoshack just make sure its 4ga and long enough. the power cable is 4ga copper with crimped and soldered ends. if there isn't a good connection it can cook. i ran into that using a crimp only audio system style ring connector for the alternator wire.. cooked the snot out of it. bought one from autoshack for way less and it's been solid for YEARS...

 

I used 4 gauge welding wire, a bussmann 100 amp breaker, and two batteries in parallel. A large AGM for daily and deka agm for the track to shed the 40 lbs. If you check the stats for 4 gauge welding wire it runs a lot of current, more than the car would produce unless you have a competition stereo - and is meant to run large current for quite a significant duration. Also use a a four position battery switch so I can move between bat 1, bat 2, both or none. It starts the car easy enough off the small deka ATV agm, but as EK says it will drain out. If it sits more than 3 weeks your done, but I just switch it to the main battery for storage.

High Amp Circuit Breakers, Marine-Rated,

Not sure how well this breaker is suited for the task, but I went with it as a few posts I read in other forums referenced it. I did try and short it out to make it trip but was only brave enough to try for like 0.5 of a second. It may take several seconds ... hopefully never need to use it.

 

Not sure how well this breaker is suited for the task, but I went with it as a few posts I read in other forums referenced it. I did try and short it out to make it trip but was only brave enough to try for like 0.5 of a second. It may take several seconds ... hopefully never need to use it.

I'm using the thermal reset model in that line. It has to get hot before it'll actually trip. I consider it a "slow blow" breaker which is what I want. I don't want momentary high current demands to trip it.

 

Welp, I went for it. Not my first choice of battery but it's available everywhere. Waiting on the breaker and new terminals.

Made it easy and decided to just put it in the well:


I also went ahead and made a new starter cable 1' longer than stock:


Not mounted yet but I wanted everything on a single junction:


p.s.: I made a new alternator cable too