Does any one here who runs emange blue retard the timing when tunning w/ the emanage? ive talked to a few people and they just leave the stock igntion timing. was curious to see other peoples input on this subject.

leave stock timing in all normal driving situations. Monitor your car with a scan tool and see how much timing it runs under boost and WOT. If its too litttle, use the eman to add some timing. Of course while you monitor your timing, make sure there is no knock as well.

 

Does any one here who runs emange blue retard the timing when tunning w/ the emanage? ive talked to a few people and they just leave the stock igntion timing. was curious to see other peoples input on this subject.

Typical response for a conservative tune is "Leave vacuum timing alone... and under boost retard 6-8 degrees from the OEM norm of ~22*..." This leaves you around 14-16 degrees of timing @ WOT under boost.

Your milage may vary depending on how your car is built and tuned.

 

Typical response for a conservative tune is "Leave vacuum timing alone... and under boost retard 6-8 degrees from the OEM norm of ~22*..." This leaves you around 14-16 degrees of timing @ WOT under boost.

Your milage may vary depending on how your car is built and tuned.

the car wont run 22 degree's of timing under boost. It will retard it well below that because its so sensitive.

When i was piggybacked, at 14 PSI the car was running 8-11 degree's of advance. 11-12 was on a good day. On average it would run 10.

at 7 PSI or so the car run runs roughly 14 degree's on its own under boost. I know it doesnt know what boost is, but it does react to what it hears from the knock sensors and its DAMN sensitive, but it does a good job of protecting the motor.

 

the car wont run 22 degree's of timing under boost. It will retard it well below that because its so sensitive.

When i was piggybacked, at 14 PSI the car was running 8-11 degree's of advance. 11-12 was on a good day. On average it would run 10.

at 7 PSI or so the car run runs roughly 14 degree's on its own under boost. I know it doesnt know what boost is, but it does react to what it hears from the knock sensors and its DAMN sensitive, but it does a good job of protecting the motor.

Like I said, run 14-16 degrees... better to have it preset to that than let the stock ECU do it once it sees a problem.

I hope you're not going to argue it's better to let it knock and have the stock ECU correct than never knock at all.

 

Like I said, run 14-16 degrees... better to have it preset to that than let the stock ECU do it once it sees a problem.

I hope you're not going to argue it's better to let it knock and have the stock ECU correct than never knock at all.

the stock ECU pulls timing way before it see's harmful knock. Its VERY sensitive, the slightest amount of noise to the knock sensors will cause the car to pull a crap load of timing..

 

the stock ECU pulls timing way before it see's harmful knock. Its VERY sensitive, the slightest amount of noise to the knock sensors will cause the car to pull a crap load of timing..

If you were tuning a standalone with a J&S Knock controller... would you set the standalone way high and let the knock controller retard to what it thinks is a safe level...?

Or would you tune it correctly? :lol:

 

If you were tuning a standalone with a J&S Knock controller... would you set the standalone way high and let the knock controller retard to what it thinks is a safe level...?

Or would you tune it correctly? :lol:

you are missing the point here and are starting to go a bit off tangent.

The stock knock sensors are SENSITIVE. Which means, before any harm can be done, the ECU has already pulled a decent amount of timing, and usually will pull alot more than necessary and wont add it back for quite some time to make sure its still SAFE.

Many people here run stock ignition control on piggy back. I did up to 17.5 PSI on 91 octane. Problems? NO. Brandon runs 16 daily, problems, NO.

Im not gonna get into a pissing match with ya bro. Seriously. Stock ignition timing is safe. You can rely on it, thats all i will say.

An ignition harness for the eman is ideal to ADD timing, and yes the IS300 ECU will still pull from what the eman does cuz the timing is piggybacked.

 

I will side with Das on this one.

 

Thats great dude. This isnt about taking sides. So anyway...

I am sharing my findings and my experiences on my own car and many other cars. If you keep the AF rich enough and reasonable, stock ignition control will not blow the motor.

So you tell me now Mo, all the SRT kits you sell with the F10x which has no ignition control, what controls the ignition in those cars? The IS300 ECU correct? Thanks.

 

But still don't agree it's better to retard it with tuning than let the ECU do it when it sees knock?

Stock timing, btw, is 22... which is not safe to run with boost. Maybe you meant stock ignition control.

And the ultimate can pull timing, not just add.

No pissing match, all you have to do is agree it's better to retard it up front, given the option. It's not an opinion, it's a fact.

you are missing the point here and are starting to go a bit off tangent.

The stock knock sensors are SENSITIVE. Which means, before any harm can be done, the ECU has already pulled a decent amount of timing, and usually will pull alot more than necessary and wont add it back for quite some time to make sure its still SAFE.

Many people here run stock ignition control on piggy back. I did up to 17.5 PSI on 91 octane. Problems? NO. Brandon runs 16 daily, problems, NO.

Im not gonna get into a pissing match with ya bro. Seriously. Stock ignition timing is safe. You can rely on it, thats all i will say.

An ignition harness for the eman is ideal to ADD timing, and yes the IS300 ECU will still pull from what the eman does cuz the timing is piggybacked.

 

I know this thread is old but I am curious to find out more info on the subject of the Emanage and Timing adjustments. Both arguments brought up here seem valid and I'm wondering where to start with for timing adjustments using the Emanage. The rule of thumb I've always heard is to start by pulling 1* for each # of boost.

Malek you note that the stock ECU is pulling timing under boost, but what if the MAF is clamped in the Emanage settings so that the stock ECU is not recieving signals above atmospheric pressure? Would it be safe to say that unless detonation is occurring, the ECU will be advancing timing to 22* until redline? Pulling 1* per # would make sense to me in this situation assuming a safe conservative tune and would yield a max advance of 14*.

What I'm wondering is that if I have my Ignition Map set to retard timing by 8* at 8psi at redline, and any knock was present, according to Malek the ECU would pull additional timing, lets say for example 8*? Would that then mean my total advance would be merely 6*? I don't see how the ECU would allow the total timing advance to drop this low. I guess what I'm getting at here is whether or not the ECU is aware of the timing adjustments made by the Emanage and whether or not it becomes a factor for the ECU's timing adjustments.

The other issue I'm trying to overcome with the Emanage is what to do with my idle/part throttle timing advance while running larger injectors. I'm running 460cc injectors which are around 80% larger than stock and the Emanage claims to only be able to compensate for up to 50% larger injectors. However a way around this is to make additional correction using the airflow adjustment map. Unfortunately both of these methods make adjustments via MAF voltage alteration. In order to compensate for these injectors the Emanage is cutting the airflow signal sent to the ECU by nearly 50%. I can't help but wonder how much the timing is being advanced under these conditions, and without a live data scan tool I can't be certain. Does anyone using the Emanage with injectors >50% larger than stock have any maps/screen shots/input/timing logs on this topic?