No diagram from me but the switches are normally closed if working correctly. Meaning power is being transferred through them. Just ground a switch on one leg and provide power to the other leg. However instead of powering the switch directly from 12v source you run that leg through both low and high pressure switches and then to the switch. That way if something was to happen pressure wise a switch will “open” and thus cut power to the switch.@ExtremeFam2007
Do you have a pic or diagram of how you wired the thing up yet still retained the safety features? Would be interesting and helpful to future viewers of this post to see how you did it.
Not to detail the thread, but I am guessing you’re using a digital dash since you excised the stock ecu?
Ahh that makes sense, I don’t really know much about AC but a psi switch is psi switch, right? Thanks for the explanation 👍🏼Stuff
Yep the switch is either open (not transferring power) or closed (transferring power)Ahh that makes sense, I don’t really know much about AC but a psi switch is psi switch, right? Thanks for the explanation 👍🏼
Man that was informative. I don’t think I will ever delete my factory ecu, but I feel more confident in doing it now. It is a real wiring mess in the ecu box between the stock ecu and the Infinity wires. I did it very clean and loomed everything and used deutsch connectors but the sheer amount of wiring makes it hard to be neat. You’ll have to make a thread and post some pics if you feel like it. I’d like to see the raspberry pi displaying data. I have a PerfectTuning Canbus gauge in a custom cluster bezel, it’s nice but I wish it was bigger display. My factory cluster works but when I get past about 8psi the insta mpg pegs “80”. I gave up simulating all the factory signals since we do not have emissions here. I am surprised your fuel gauge works. I always thought it relied on a calculation derived from the MAF, igniter, and stock ecu, and would move in 1/4 tank (incorrect) increments if everything wasn’t satisfactory to the stock ecu.things
I have no idea what turns on the low fuel light in the IS but I am guessing the dual floats or a calculation? But if yours always stayed on yet the gauge worked via the float then I don’t know. Voodoo.fuel gauge .... always worked fine except the fuel light would stay on.
Yeah i read about that, and being a mechanical guy not and electrical i thought that sounded like an accident waiting to happen. Still, how often do you hear of it being a problem? None that i know of... well not in Toyota/Lexus anywayIt’s a scary thought but current is passed through a thermister. As long as it‘s submerged the thermister remains cooled by the fuel but when the level drops, the current heats the thermister and closes the circuit and turns on the low fuel light.