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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be storing my IS300 for the winter. I was wondering if I needed to do anything special to the car before the long cold winter. I'm going to just give it a quick wash and clean all the salt off it but other than that is there anything I really have to do? I don't think any of the fluids in the car will freeze will they? Any help would be appriciated.

Thanks much.
 

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Disconnect the battery so it does not drain.
Start the car every month or so.
Don't leave much fuel in the tank.

Do a search online for more info. Many 'vettes store their vehicle during winter time, so their info would be a great resource.
 

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Well a couple of tips already posted are incorrect. I have been storing my IS300 for the third time this winter and what I do is to make sure the car has a full tank of gas. This is to ensure no moisture or condensation forms in the tank, if the tank is full with gas there is no room for moisture or condensation to form.

Second the battery, either disconnect the battery and bring it in to your house or somewhere warmer than the garage or use a trickle charger that maintains a charge. Thats what I use because its easier and the car is ready to go when I want to start it up and drive it.

Third is the tires, make sure they are properly inflated or the best thing it to lift the entire car off the ground using jack stands. I myself leave the car on the ground and make sure the tires are properly inflated. Because I like to drive the car once a month or so, and thats easier than jacking the car up and down.

And lastly driving or starting the car once a month is a real good idea just to keep everything lubed right and to prevent moisture or condensation from forming in the engine or any electrical type parts (alternator, starter etc). I like to either drive the car around for a half hour or so, or if the weather is crapy then start the car (with the garage door open!!) and let it run until it gets hot enough for the cooling fans to start working (about 20mins in cold weather).

There are many more ideas and thoughts on winterizing your car (like Heat in you gas) but I have the belief if you start and drive it once a month then alot of the tiny "detail" type things aren't necessary. Now if you were to stor it for lets say 6 months with out starting it then I would go and do everything like lifting the car, removing the battery etc.

Mike
 

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I don't get the gas tank idea either, but that's what one of the 'vettes owners mentioned in his writing.
 

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vlad_a said:
I don't get the gas tank idea either, but that's what one of the 'vettes owners mentioned in his writing.
I don't get it either but maybe thats if your going to store your vehicle for a long period of time with out driving/starting. I really believe that starting it or driving it at least once a month you can skip some of the long term storage tips/steps.

I look at winter storing step opinions like I look at detail waxing opinions. Everyone has a different way of doing it but the end results are the same.

Mike
 

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One more thing,
If the car has summer tires on, DO NOT take it out for a drive if even a slight possibility exists of driving on snow or ice(Driveways, etc).

I learned that lesson the hard way (switched tires too early).
 

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I think storing the car with a full tank is a good idea. I know for bikes you do that then add some fuel stablizer. Its best if you can start the car and let the fuel run through the engine so it doesn't sit for too long.

Definitely inflate the tires though, more than usual if you have to, especially if you're not planning on moving the car at all. Don't want to be developing flat spots on the tires now....
 

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well heres some tips on storing your car for longer than a month:

fill the fuel tank to full(so moisture does not get in the tank, water is heavier than gasoline so it will sit on the bottom and moisture in a tank isn't good anyway.)
do oil and filter change
wash the exterior
clean the interior
disconnect the battery
leave parking brake off
if manual put gear in reverse if auto in park or neutral.
lift all tires off the ground
fold some towels under the wiper arms so it does not touch your windshield
leave open one window, slightly, if your storing indoors

**start the car at least once a month(i recommend that you pull out the EFI fuse or disable the ign. before; turn and hold the key for about 5 seconds than let the starter cool for 2 minutes for every 15 seconds of the starter cranking it needs to be cooled for 2 minutes!!; this procedure is to primer the engine w/ oil) than put the fuse back in and start the car normally.

when you take the car out of storage:
do a oil and filter change
check tire pressure
and regular service maint.

taking the car out of storage after 12 months
do a 30K service.
replace coolant

i think thats about it...

edit:
make sure your car is completey dry, blow out the water in the mirrors(i think every member here who owns an IS knows what i am talking about.)
give your car a thin coat of wax.
 

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So I put mine in at the beginning of november and will not get access to it until April. Yes, Ohio winters are that long. It was only $140 for all that time, so I thought it was a good deal.

Anyway, I put it on jackstands, put fuel stabalizer in it with a about a quarter tank left, and disconnected the battery. I plan on getting the oil changed when I take her out in April. Although, I am pretty sure I left my emergency brake on. What long term effect does that have? Is it just losing tension in the e brake? And that is the first thing I have ever heard about the wiper blades.

Oh well, it is the first time storing her that long, so I guess I will know next year. This is a good thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everyone! All this information is very helpful. I'm probably going to be storing it today as there is supposed to be a decent snow storm this weekend.

It's gonna suck being without the IS for 4 months butI'll appriciate it even more once the snow thaws. 8)
 

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i gonna be leaving my car in my garage for a month when my parents leave for a winter vacation...

lifting all the tires off the ground is to insure that you wont have "flat" spots on your tires as well as deflation..

the parking brake or e-brake off is so your wont lose tension...and also something about the rotor and pads..i'll have to look it up.

the wiper arms..its just to save your wiper blades and your windsheild from sticking together...you can just replace the wiper blades and polish the windshield...

for memebers that don't understand why you should fill up the fuel tank to full...its because water(condensation) will end up in your fuel tank and end up rusting your fuel pump and fuel lines, fuel filter, and maybe even the block and injectors(these are just possibilities) once you start the car later on. so unless you got deep pockets fill up your tank to full before you store it.
 

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Ive read somewhere within the last few days (cant remember where tho) that when you store the car lifted w' the tires off the ground, that is not recommended because some rod in the suspension will rust. I will be storing the IS on a frame lift in my garage and want to know if i need/should make some straps to hold the suspension up so its not at full extansion???
 

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CharlieD06 said:
Ive read somewhere within the last few days (cant remember where tho) that when you store the car lifted w' the tires off the ground, that is not recommended because some rod in the suspension will rust. I will be storing the IS on a frame lift in my garage and want to know if i need/should make some straps to hold the suspension up so its not at full extansion???
well..you can use ropes...bungy cords tie them around the bottom then connect it at the top of the suspension to keep the car from full expansion...then take off every tire and hang them :lol: j/k...you should be good w/o any ropes/straps to hold the suspension many manuf. recommend the things that i have posted before

about the tie rod rusting..if you dont wash your car before your store you can have similar problems with the paint rusting, corrision, paint fading.if you live near a beach did you know it is recommend to wash your car 2-3 times a week? and do more frequent oil changes and other services..sounds :crazy: it all depends on how you have been maintaining the car. mud and road grim and whatever else that gets under there should be cleaned when your washing your car..
 

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As I posted in another thread RE: starting the car during winter storage



Bad idea.

The majority of wear and tear on an engine is cold/dry starting. Why do it any more than is nescessary. Once at the end of the winter is not as bad as three or four times during the winter. (Granted the difference damage-wise is not going to be great, but why test it?)

Also, starting a cold car for only a few minutes can cause premature rusting of exhaust systems. If your car only runs for a few minutes, that is just enough time to create moisture in and on the exhaust as it warms and cools.

If you're actually going to store it for the whole winter, best bet is to just put it away, and not f*ck with it until you're ready to bring it back out in the spring.


My $0.02
 

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dpwu32 said:
As I posted in another thread RE: starting the car during winter storage



Bad idea.

The majority of wear and tear on an engine is cold/dry starting. Why do it any more than is nescessary. Once at the end of the winter is not as bad as three or four times during the winter. (Granted the difference damage-wise is not going to be great, but why test it?)

Also, starting a cold car for only a few minutes can cause premature rusting of exhaust systems. If your car only runs for a few minutes, that is just enough time to create moisture in and on the exhaust as it warms and cools.

If you're actually going to store it for the whole winter, best bet is to just put it away, and not f*ck with it until you're ready to bring it back out in the spring.


My $0.02
dragonblade said:
**start the car at least once a month(i recommend that you pull out the EFI fuse or disable the ign. before; turn and hold the key for about 5 seconds than let the starter cool for 2 minutes for every 15 seconds of the starter cranking it needs to be cooled for 2 minutes!!; this procedure is to primer the engine w/ oil) than put the fuse back in and start the car normally.
this is why i posted/shared this information..so members storing their cars wont dry start their motors..plus there is an anti-drain back valve in the lexus oil filters. i always use this method when i do oil changes and oil changes in my girl friend's car and my parents cars and all my friends cars when i help them and they always use this method now..i guarantee you wont dry start your engine and that you will feel the engine starting up faster then just cranking it in april or whenever winter season is over for our members.

when you use this method the engine cranks over slower than it would regularly thus reducing any damage that may be inflicted if you dry start. (if your using a fram oil filter or other oil filters without a anti-drain back valve you should be aware that when you turn the engine off everytime all the oil goes straight down to the pan!! so you damage your engine everytime you start it!!) just sharing some helpful info.. you might not feel the damage now..but time will always tell.

edit: always use an oil filter with a anti-drain back valve
just follow what i previously posted and you will be fine during the
winter. or whenever you store you car for a month or longer.
 
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