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Discussion Starter #1
I picked one up for free a while back from a member of the Alberta supra club. It is out of an 87 n/a supra. I keep reading 89 & up. doesn't look like it has the steel sandwich plate which I heard gives the W-58 the extra strength. Looks like aluminum. I'll try & snap some pics. I have to pull the tranny out anyways to replace a chirping release bearing. I have read all the posts about the W58 swaps. I just don't want to start tearing off the bell housing and tail shaft from the W55 and find out I'm wasting my time. Tranny seems to be in good condition, gear train turns smoothly.
 

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It's the same transmission, just swap the bellhousings and tail shaft and you're good to go. The reason to go with a new year model is because they changed some stuff inside that supposedly made it stronger and in most cases have lesser miles than older ones.
 

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It's the same transmission, just swap the bellhousings and tail shaft and you're good to go. The reason to go with a new year model is because they changed some stuff inside that supposedly made it stronger and in most cases have lesser miles than older ones.
My W55 has a steel sandwich plate. :suspiciou
 

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In my extensive research on the W58, it was noted in many places that the W58 received an upgrade in later gens to handle more power. Some attributed to the metallurgy of the sandwich plate and/or gears. I could never locate exactly the difference, but the strength issue is likely.

No point upgrading to the W58 if it's not stronger than the W55 since the ratio's are not as ideal as the W55.
 

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how do you tell, I just dropped my tranny and my sandwich plate looks like steel.
Well, it's kind of a rusty iron color, or painted. If it were aluminum, it would not be weathered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hmmm, See this is a tough one. Where I'm located, you would just never find a later model W58. Man I have tried. They seem to be rare. when I have heard of one at a wreckers, they are gone within a matter of days. This is a tough decision as I do have to pull the tranny out anyways....and I have this W58 just sitting there.

Well, here's a thought: My small 60-1 (.58 ar) turbo will probably max out in the high 300's?

The W-55 can blow up in the low 300's

soooo....... Should I give it a try considering the tranny has to come out anyways?

As for the gearing, The gears are a little longer right? even when I was running 270 rwhp 1st gear blew by in a blink. seemed almost useless???

besides, I spend most of my time on the highway cruising. so a little better gas mileage as the cruising RPM's should drop a bit?

How many 10ths would a guy lose at the track as a result?

I do need to know how I could run through all of the gears when there's no shifter. Is there a way to rig something up just to make sure it goes in to all of the gears smoothly before considering swapping it in.
 

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Well, it's kind of a rusty iron color, or painted. If it were aluminum, it would not be weathered.
Mine is definately rusted. When I run my finger over it, it looks as if I am removing dead skin , but its rust. Thats wierd. I wonder if its the reason some people still have the w55 and make decent power on it vs those who's has blown. IDK though.
 

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Mine is definately rusted. When I run my finger over it, it looks as if I am removing dead skin , but its rust. Thats wierd. I wonder if its the reason some people still have the w55 and make decent power on it vs those who's has blown. IDK though.
I'm not sure. I will knock on wood. I've been running mine for 2 years now with out a hitch. It last made 460 @ 17 psi. The dyno is easier on the driveline than on the street or track, so I can't say it would hold up under these conditions at this HP level.
 

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I'm not sure. I will knock on wood. I've been running mine for 2 years now with out a hitch. It last made 460 @ 17 psi. The dyno is easier on the driveline than on the street or track, so I can't say it would hold up under these conditions at this HP level.
Well thats good, cause 460 is way over my goal of 375-400. Idk, we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok...........maybee just risk it and stay with the W-55 (I'll look for the steel sandwhich plate) and If I blow it I have a back up....????
 

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clutch selection is VERY important in how yout W55 and W58 will last. Any pucked clutch will break it even with 300 RWHP.

You must stick to a full faced organic disc. Avoid power shifting as well.
 

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clutch selection is VERY important in how yout W55 and W58 will last. Any pucked clutch will break it even with 300 RWHP.
I agree.

I always liked the idea of using the factory clutch. since it seemed to have a lower tolerance for power than the W55. So, if something is going to go, its going to be the clutch first instead of the trans. But, I only had 300RWHP. I exceeded the clutch limits once on the highway, when it just started to slip, while in gear. and when I later fried my clutch by driving stupidly. But, I was able to just replace the factory clutch instead of breaking my trans. My clutch was my failsafe.
and, thats what I have noticed on these forums.

factory clutch + factory trans = lasts a little longer with boosted cars, but might replace a clutch.
upgraded clutch + factory trans = too much stress on the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes.....but I remember the combo being:

full face organic clutch disk

with

upgraded pressure plate...
 

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Well, I'm sure other have had different experiences, but I run a Clutch Masters FX400 with 4 Puck disk! The clutch has never slipped and yet the tranny is holding up!? As I've stated in other posts about this tranny, I can't help but think that the fluids used are very important to how long this tranny lasts. I use a mixture of Redline MT-90 and Light Duty or Medium Duty shockproof gear oil.

As Malek said, I almost never power shift!
 

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not to thread jack but , is there any specail shock proof gear oil that has the reputation of redline or any race gear oil?
 

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hmmm, See this is a tough one. Where I'm located, you would just never find a later model W58. Man I have tried. They seem to be rare. when I have heard of one at a wreckers, they are gone within a matter of days. This is a tough decision as I do have to pull the tranny out anyways....and I have this W58 just sitting there.

Well, here's a thought: My small 60-1 (.58 ar) turbo will probably max out in the high 300's?

The W-55 can blow up in the low 300's

soooo....... Should I give it a try considering the tranny has to come out anyways?

As for the gearing, The gears are a little longer right? even when I was running 270 rwhp 1st gear blew by in a blink. seemed almost useless???

besides, I spend most of my time on the highway cruising. so a little better gas mileage as the cruising RPM's should drop a bit
I ran a 60-1 turbo(not hifi) and made almost 470 at 17psi, your turbo is capable of more than you think. The w55 can handle low 300's I ran mine or a few months making about 340's with no problems. Unless your changing the engine compression to run higher boost i would leave the w55 in the car, hell I would leave it in until it breaks.

I personally wouldnt swap in an 87' w58 b/c it seems like a waste of time, drive the w55 until it breaks, I have an extra one sitting in my garage anyway. Other than that, I know you can find an sc300 based w58 and have it shipped to you. I used 2 of them and bough both of them for about 500ish and the shipping will be for you about 100ish.

Finally, I will tell you that the gearing of the w58 is not ideal in any circumstances. I was making more than 150rwhp and there were flat spots on the power delivery b/c of bullshit ratios. Only good thing about the tranny is 5th gear fuel economy b/c the longer gearing.
 

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not to thread jack but , is there any specail shock proof gear oil that has the reputation of redline or any race gear oil?
Why not just use Redline? IMO, they make the best gear oils out there. There are motor oils that I think are better like Amsoil, but I have not seen a better gear oil than Redline.
 

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Personally, I like the gearing of the W58. 1-2-3-4 are all spaced closer together and 5th is the taller. Unlike the W55 which has an larger gap between 3-4 with a too short 5th to cruise.

It does make the gears overall taller, which I guess is a problem for you guys with powerbands in the higher range where you have to 'wait' to get going.

I'm on stock twins, and the W58s taller ratios suits it quite well. I can already spin easily in 1st. No point having a shorter 1st which would spin even more. Prob helps acceleration overall as I can stay in boost longer.
 

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I hate the gearing of the W58. Any car, even with stock compression and 7-9 PSI of boost, the gearing of the W58 is not ideal with our rear end no matter how low the power band in my opinion.

As far as wheel spin goes, W58 or W55.. Traction is still an issue.

Not trying to go against you Paul, just giving my own opinions and observations.
 
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