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Discussion Starter #1
I went to start my car yesterday, when the power cut out. "Oh shit," I thought, the immobilizer or some bullshit related to the ingition switch I just had replaced a week before (because it was stuck in "ACC").

So I took the key out and tried again, and it started... then died, and the door chime stopped (I had the driver's side door open). After several more tries including a couple times with the master and valet keys, it wouldn't work, so I popped the hood and held my breath.

I went to jiggle the battery terminals, as obviously it was an electrical problem (battery is more acessible than the fuses, which I was going to try next).

Well when my finger was JUST BARELY touching the positive terminal cover (not even the terminal! Just the rubber cover!), I mean JUST FUCKING BARELY, I could barely even feel it, the power went back on and the alarm blasted in my face, just about causing me to let fly a flurry of adrenaline-induced feces.

I ran back to my keys and disabled the alarm (aftermarket alarm). The hood was still open, so I put one hand over my left ear and used my right shoulder to cover the other ear, and starteg jiggling the positive terminal again, expecting it to short again, and go off. Nothing. It was solid as a rock, so was the negative terminal. They wouldn't budge at all.

It was the wierdest fucking thing I have ever seen in my experiance with cars, and I've seen some wierd alarm related shit with my car particularly. After I started the engine again, I sat in the driver's seat, trembling for 2 minutes in horror at whatever had just happened that I couldn't possibly comprehend. I didn't want to drive, because it had absolutely no cause, and I thought it could happen again while I was MOVING. Car in gear with a sudden lack of power, travelling at speed = bad.
 

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I have a feeling there was a bad contact with the battery, considering no electrical items were working until you actually touched the battery.
Same reason it died, contact wasn't good enough to flow enough current.
Check both positive and negative terminals. If you had work done on your car, it is likely the negative terminal was disconnected. If problem occurs again, remove both terminals and try sanding them.

It wasn't alarm related - it doesn't function this way.
 

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so your engine turned back on by itself? or did it just get power again which only caused the alarm to trigger?

you might want to check the battery to see if it still has a full charge.

it might have been you aftermarket alarm causing the short somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As far as I know, it wasn't related to the alarm. As soon as I barely touched the positive terminal, the power went back on, and that triggered the alarm. I didn't mean it was alarm related, I know it wasn't. My aftermarket alarm doesn't touch the immobilizer.

The battery is fine AFAIK, still 14.2-14.8 volts, depending on RPM. No signs of draining, only minimal light dimming when my 400W system is turned up (minimal meaning not even noticeable unless you are looking straight at the dash cluster).

No, the engine didn't turn on by itself, but when I touched the positive battery terminal COVER with the very tip of my finger, the power went back on, and the alarm went off. After I shut off the alarm, I went back into the cabin and started the engine.
 

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u should make sure you tighten the nuts on the the battery cuz i had it loose before and it would always shut off until i tightened it so try that :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lexluger180 said:
u should make sure you tighten the nuts on the the battery cuz i had it loose before and it would always shut off until i tightened it so try that :D
Already said, they are rock hard. I tried jiggling and twisting them, they don't move at all, both of them. That's why this whole thing is so wierd.
 

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ÜberPhLuBB said:
As far as I know, it wasn't related to the alarm. As soon as I barely touched the positive terminal, the power went back on, and that triggered the alarm. I didn't mean it was alarm related, I know it wasn't. My aftermarket alarm doesn't touch the immobilizer.

The battery is fine AFAIK, still 14.2-14.8 volts, depending on RPM. No signs of draining, only minimal light dimming when my 400W system is turned up (minimal meaning not even noticeable unless you are looking straight at the dash cluster).

No, the engine didn't turn on by itself, but when I touched the positive battery terminal COVER with the very tip of my finger, the power went back on, and the alarm went off. After I shut off the alarm, I went back into the cabin and started the engine.

Your not measuring correctly. 14.2-14.8 volts is the voltage coming from the alternator.

The voltage from the battery will be 12.8 MAX
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HoustonLex said:
ÜberPhLuBB said:
As far as I know, it wasn't related to the alarm. As soon as I barely touched the positive terminal, the power went back on, and that triggered the alarm. I didn't mean it was alarm related, I know it wasn't. My aftermarket alarm doesn't touch the immobilizer.

The battery is fine AFAIK, still 14.2-14.8 volts, depending on RPM. No signs of draining, only minimal light dimming when my 400W system is turned up (minimal meaning not even noticeable unless you are looking straight at the dash cluster).

No, the engine didn't turn on by itself, but when I touched the positive battery terminal COVER with the very tip of my finger, the power went back on, and the alarm went off. After I shut off the alarm, I went back into the cabin and started the engine.

Your not measuring correctly. 14.2-14.8 volts is the voltage coming from the alternator.

The voltage from the battery will be 12.8 MAX
I'm looking at the volt meter on my amplifier.
 

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ÜberPhLuBB said:
HoustonLex said:
ÜberPhLuBB said:
As far as I know, it wasn't related to the alarm. As soon as I barely touched the positive terminal, the power went back on, and that triggered the alarm. I didn't mean it was alarm related, I know it wasn't. My aftermarket alarm doesn't touch the immobilizer.

The battery is fine AFAIK, still 14.2-14.8 volts, depending on RPM. No signs of draining, only minimal light dimming when my 400W system is turned up (minimal meaning not even noticeable unless you are looking straight at the dash cluster).

No, the engine didn't turn on by itself, but when I touched the positive battery terminal COVER with the very tip of my finger, the power went back on, and the alarm went off. After I shut off the alarm, I went back into the cabin and started the engine.

Your not measuring correctly. 14.2-14.8 volts is the voltage coming from the alternator.

The voltage from the battery will be 12.8 MAX
I'm looking at the volt meter on my amplifier.
no shit sherlock :) I figured that much...

Battery Voltage wont vary with engine rpm... what you were measuring was the output of the alternator. They range from 14.2-14.8 to account for losses in the system.

Your battery however will max out at 12.8 volts. And I will say it again. Battery voltage will NOT vary with engine rpm.

Make sure you are measuring correctly. Try touching the positive of the batter terminal and then touching negative to the frame instead of the negative terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
HoustonLex said:
ÜberPhLuBB said:
HoustonLex said:
ÜberPhLuBB said:
As far as I know, it wasn't related to the alarm. As soon as I barely touched the positive terminal, the power went back on, and that triggered the alarm. I didn't mean it was alarm related, I know it wasn't. My aftermarket alarm doesn't touch the immobilizer.

The battery is fine AFAIK, still 14.2-14.8 volts, depending on RPM. No signs of draining, only minimal light dimming when my 400W system is turned up (minimal meaning not even noticeable unless you are looking straight at the dash cluster).

No, the engine didn't turn on by itself, but when I touched the positive battery terminal COVER with the very tip of my finger, the power went back on, and the alarm went off. After I shut off the alarm, I went back into the cabin and started the engine.

Your not measuring correctly. 14.2-14.8 volts is the voltage coming from the alternator.

The voltage from the battery will be 12.8 MAX
I'm looking at the volt meter on my amplifier.
no sh*t sherlock :) I figured that much...

Battery Voltage wont vary with engine rpm... what you were measuring was the output of the alternator. They range from 14.2-14.8 to account for losses in the system.

Your battery however will max out at 12.8 volts. And I will say it again. Battery voltage will NOT vary with engine rpm.

Make sure you are measuring correctly. Try touching the positive of the batter terminal and then touching negative to the frame instead of the negative terminal.
Should I lick my fingers first? :lol:

j/k, But I don't have a multimeter.
 
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