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Man that engine almost looks like it’s been submerged given all the internal surface rust or had a bhg by the way it looks like a milkshake in the sump. I’d definitely try to get it exchanged but most of the importers have a stupid rule about “not opening up the engine” or it voids the 30 day warranty. I’d call them before taking the head off, make sure they’re okay with it.
 

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Yeah that water in the oil is a worry, it "could" be nothing, but given water and oil wont naturally mix it must have been a hell of a blast to get it all the way into the engine like that. But then again it "could" be an indicator to a thrashed engine with a blown head gasket, so i would be talking to the importer as well. At the least i would have the head off and skimmed with a new gasket on to know its all good, but then i would also be seriously concerned about the state of the turbo seals and bearings with all that crap blown through it. If the water has gotten there then chances are it has garried all the grit and gunk through as well.
I wouldn't think that the bearings would be good if the head gasket was blown and that much water got in to it. The main and rod bearings really looked almost new. The oil pump also doesn't show signs of water. So it really seems like water just got in somewhere or there was a lot of condensation build up from temperature changes.

ah jeez the classic mistake of not removing that gear stop thing. At least it's common.

Was that fire pan going just for heat? Never saw that before
Yup lol.

Yes! Pan had methanol in it. I've never seen it before but methanol in an aluminum pan burns slow, odorless, smokeless, and radiates heat in every direction. It is super weird but works really well. My friend has a heated shop but if he is only going to be out there for a short period he will use that and it heats the entire shop.

Man that engine almost looks like it’s been submerged given all the internal surface rust or had a bhg by the way it looks like a milkshake in the sump. I’d definitely try to get it exchanged but most of the importers have a stupid rule about “not opening up the engine” or it voids the 30 day warranty. I’d call them before taking the head off, make sure they’re okay with it.
I have talked with the importer, but they've basically said they don't know why it looks like this, they compression checked the engine and it checked out.

I've talked with a couple buddies of mine that know more than me, and they all believe it will be fine. So I'm going to start putting the engine back together after I clean it up a little more.

The turbo is my biggest concern right now. I don't know if it will be useable or not. Going to clean it as best I can and see how things look and feel.
 

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I have talked with the importer, but they've basically said they don't know why it looks like this, they compression checked the engine and it checked out.

I've talked with a couple buddies of mine that know more than me, and they all believe it will be fine. So I'm going to start putting the engine back together after I clean it up a little more.

The turbo is my biggest concern right now. I don't know if it will be useable or not. Going to clean it as best I can and see how things look and feel.
Yeah if the engine bearing surfaces look OK, and spec out, it should be fine to run. A good synthetic oil will clean alot of that surface rust up where it contacts it, but it can get in oil galleys and ports and clog them too. Lots of these jdm imports are sludgey on the inside. I don’t know if they aren’t “high” on maintenance (hard to believe) , or if their oil is poor grade (wouldn’t think so) or what, but a lot of them look rough internally. May just be from sitting in junkyards and being exposed to the elements, I bet most of them have been decommissioned awhile since the whole 100000km Shaken tax-thing they do.

May try to find a turbo from someone upgrading. I’d think that rust would un-balance the shaft.
 

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Broken crank timing gear. Waiting on pricing from a friend before I buy a new one.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Received Xcessive Manufacturing engine mounts.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New Spark Plugs showed up

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New Radiator hoses. I am going to reuse my Samco lower hose but couldn't find a nice "matching" upper for cheap so bought the full set.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Spent some time on Saturday at my friends with him and his dad. Got quite a bit done. Would have gotten further but I forgot about a box of parts and some hardware.

Both oil pans resealed and bolted on
New O-ring for upper pan to block
New oil strainer gasket
New oil pump, both o-rings behind the pump, and front main seal
New water pump and gaskets
New cam seals
New vvti solenoid o-ring
Rebuilt vvti cam gear
New rear main seal
Greddy magnetic drain plug
New Turbo oil drain gasket
New Thermostat

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I think that covers everything we got accomplished. I need to decide on painting the valve covers, intake manifold, and anything on the exhaust side so I can start bolting that stuff back on. And I need to pull my engine out of my car so I can grab some of the accessories.

So it's coming along, just slowly. My wife had surgery two weeks ago (she's good now), but she was down pretty good so I couldn't get much done.


Anyone have a recommendation or any info on the MAF sensor? My 1jz didn't come with one. Pretty sure I need part number 22204-46020 but I didn't realize they are almost $200. If that's what I have to spend to get one I will, just seeing if there are other options.
 

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Yeah if the engine bearing surfaces look OK, and spec out, it should be fine to run. A good synthetic oil will clean alot of that surface rust up where it contacts it, but it can get in oil galleys and ports and clog them too. Lots of these jdm imports are sludgey on the inside. I don’t know if they aren’t “high” on maintenance (hard to believe) , or if their oil is poor grade (wouldn’t think so) or what, but a lot of them look rough internally. May just be from sitting in junkyards and being exposed to the elements, I bet most of them have been decommissioned awhile since the whole 100000km Shaken tax-thing they do.
In Japan they typically have to swap their cars out every 3-4 years or so, I believe the older the car the higher the road user charges or something like that so there is an incentive to buy new ones. When you are swapping them out that fast i am sure some just get slack with the maintenance, though in those short periods the manufacturers warranty would normally cover a lot of the servicing.

Here in NZ we bring in a lot of the 2nd hand Japanese import cars, when they first started bringing them over 30+ years ago you would get all sorts of dodgy cars showing up, but these days they are all in pretty good nick for the most part. But yes given the year of manufacture i would say they have probably been sitting around in junk yard for a while which wont help. As long as you give it a good oil and coolant flush first hopefully most of the issue will be gone, most surface rust will eventually wear off when things start moving 😜
 

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Anyone have a recommendation or any info on the MAF sensor? My 1jz didn't come with one. Pretty sure I need part number 22204-46020 but I didn't realize they are almost $200. If that's what I have to spend to get one I will, just seeing if there are other options.
I don't have any direct links but I recall certain other Toyota models using the same maf with a different part number from the V6 96-98 4Runner or Camry's of the same vintage as long as its the "bullet" style MAF. You'd probably have to cross reference the wiring for those MAF's but they should be easy to make work with re-pinning needed worst case. Your other option is to use the Link ECU that eliminates the MAF and provides a prewired MAF to MAP adapter and sensor if you go that route for engine management
 
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