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Man that engine almost looks like it’s been submerged given all the internal surface rust or had a bhg by the way it looks like a milkshake in the sump. I’d definitely try to get it exchanged but most of the importers have a stupid rule about “not opening up the engine” or it voids the 30 day warranty. I’d call them before taking the head off, make sure they’re okay with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,922
Yeah that water in the oil is a worry, it "could" be nothing, but given water and oil wont naturally mix it must have been a hell of a blast to get it all the way into the engine like that. But then again it "could" be an indicator to a thrashed engine with a blown head gasket, so i would be talking to the importer as well. At the least i would have the head off and skimmed with a new gasket on to know its all good, but then i would also be seriously concerned about the state of the turbo seals and bearings with all that crap blown through it. If the water has gotten there then chances are it has garried all the grit and gunk through as well.
I wouldn't think that the bearings would be good if the head gasket was blown and that much water got in to it. The main and rod bearings really looked almost new. The oil pump also doesn't show signs of water. So it really seems like water just got in somewhere or there was a lot of condensation build up from temperature changes.

ah jeez the classic mistake of not removing that gear stop thing. At least it's common.

Was that fire pan going just for heat? Never saw that before
Yup lol.

Yes! Pan had methanol in it. I've never seen it before but methanol in an aluminum pan burns slow, odorless, smokeless, and radiates heat in every direction. It is super weird but works really well. My friend has a heated shop but if he is only going to be out there for a short period he will use that and it heats the entire shop.

Man that engine almost looks like it’s been submerged given all the internal surface rust or had a bhg by the way it looks like a milkshake in the sump. I’d definitely try to get it exchanged but most of the importers have a stupid rule about “not opening up the engine” or it voids the 30 day warranty. I’d call them before taking the head off, make sure they’re okay with it.
I have talked with the importer, but they've basically said they don't know why it looks like this, they compression checked the engine and it checked out.

I've talked with a couple buddies of mine that know more than me, and they all believe it will be fine. So I'm going to start putting the engine back together after I clean it up a little more.

The turbo is my biggest concern right now. I don't know if it will be useable or not. Going to clean it as best I can and see how things look and feel.
 

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I have talked with the importer, but they've basically said they don't know why it looks like this, they compression checked the engine and it checked out.

I've talked with a couple buddies of mine that know more than me, and they all believe it will be fine. So I'm going to start putting the engine back together after I clean it up a little more.

The turbo is my biggest concern right now. I don't know if it will be useable or not. Going to clean it as best I can and see how things look and feel.
Yeah if the engine bearing surfaces look OK, and spec out, it should be fine to run. A good synthetic oil will clean alot of that surface rust up where it contacts it, but it can get in oil galleys and ports and clog them too. Lots of these jdm imports are sludgey on the inside. I don’t know if they aren’t “high” on maintenance (hard to believe) , or if their oil is poor grade (wouldn’t think so) or what, but a lot of them look rough internally. May just be from sitting in junkyards and being exposed to the elements, I bet most of them have been decommissioned awhile since the whole 100000km Shaken tax-thing they do.

May try to find a turbo from someone upgrading. I’d think that rust would un-balance the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,924
Broken crank timing gear. Waiting on pricing from a friend before I buy a new one.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Received Xcessive Manufacturing engine mounts.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New Spark Plugs showed up

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New Radiator hoses. I am going to reuse my Samco lower hose but couldn't find a nice "matching" upper for cheap so bought the full set.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Spent some time on Saturday at my friends with him and his dad. Got quite a bit done. Would have gotten further but I forgot about a box of parts and some hardware.

Both oil pans resealed and bolted on
New O-ring for upper pan to block
New oil strainer gasket
New oil pump, both o-rings behind the pump, and front main seal
New water pump and gaskets
New cam seals
New vvti solenoid o-ring
Rebuilt vvti cam gear
New rear main seal
Greddy magnetic drain plug
New Turbo oil drain gasket
New Thermostat

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I think that covers everything we got accomplished. I need to decide on painting the valve covers, intake manifold, and anything on the exhaust side so I can start bolting that stuff back on. And I need to pull my engine out of my car so I can grab some of the accessories.

So it's coming along, just slowly. My wife had surgery two weeks ago (she's good now), but she was down pretty good so I couldn't get much done.


Anyone have a recommendation or any info on the MAF sensor? My 1jz didn't come with one. Pretty sure I need part number 22204-46020 but I didn't realize they are almost $200. If that's what I have to spend to get one I will, just seeing if there are other options.
 

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Yeah if the engine bearing surfaces look OK, and spec out, it should be fine to run. A good synthetic oil will clean alot of that surface rust up where it contacts it, but it can get in oil galleys and ports and clog them too. Lots of these jdm imports are sludgey on the inside. I don’t know if they aren’t “high” on maintenance (hard to believe) , or if their oil is poor grade (wouldn’t think so) or what, but a lot of them look rough internally. May just be from sitting in junkyards and being exposed to the elements, I bet most of them have been decommissioned awhile since the whole 100000km Shaken tax-thing they do.
In Japan they typically have to swap their cars out every 3-4 years or so, I believe the older the car the higher the road user charges or something like that so there is an incentive to buy new ones. When you are swapping them out that fast i am sure some just get slack with the maintenance, though in those short periods the manufacturers warranty would normally cover a lot of the servicing.

Here in NZ we bring in a lot of the 2nd hand Japanese import cars, when they first started bringing them over 30+ years ago you would get all sorts of dodgy cars showing up, but these days they are all in pretty good nick for the most part. But yes given the year of manufacture i would say they have probably been sitting around in junk yard for a while which wont help. As long as you give it a good oil and coolant flush first hopefully most of the issue will be gone, most surface rust will eventually wear off when things start moving 😜
 

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Anyone have a recommendation or any info on the MAF sensor? My 1jz didn't come with one. Pretty sure I need part number 22204-46020 but I didn't realize they are almost $200. If that's what I have to spend to get one I will, just seeing if there are other options.
I don't have any direct links but I recall certain other Toyota models using the same maf with a different part number from the V6 96-98 4Runner or Camry's of the same vintage as long as its the "bullet" style MAF. You'd probably have to cross reference the wiring for those MAF's but they should be easy to make work with re-pinning needed worst case. Your other option is to use the Link ECU that eliminates the MAF and provides a prewired MAF to MAP adapter and sensor if you go that route for engine management
 

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Discussion Starter #1,928 (Edited)
New crank gear pulley

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Committed to pulling the head. Pulled the cams and sat cam caps back in place so they stay in the correct location and order.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pulled the head to a fucking mess.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Started cleaning and painting some parts

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Started pulling the engine out of my car

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,929

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Discussion Starter #1,930 (Edited)
And this is after round one of cleaning on the block and pistons. Still trying to get the importer to refund me some money. I'm over it at this point though.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

So, the block has been sitting and soaking for a little over a week now at my friends house. We've both been busy and I've been waiting on parts so no rush anyway. Going to get over there this week or weekend to see how well we can get it cleaned up and see what his dad thinks. Don't know if I need to pull internals and get it honed. Don't know if I should get new rings. Just not sure right now.

Again, main and rod bearings checked out great.

Should have a good chunk of parts delivered this week so I'll update again later.




EDIT:

OH, a few notes on pulling the engine/trans out. I did it 100% by myself, and have never pulled an engine before. I double and triple checked that I had all lines disconnected before I started pulling. There really isn't a whole lot. 2-3 grounds, fuel feed, power steering, evap. That's about it once you have the intake and exhaust removed.

Obviously I cut out my header and y pipe. There was no way I was getting the bolts loose that held the two together. I unbolted the header from the head and dropped it down under the car, then used a sawzall to cut it into pieces.

My biggest hang up was not knowing what to do with the AC compressor and lines. I didn't realize what a pain it was to mess with at home without proper equipment. I looked at renting tools and everything but it still looked like more than I wanted to tackle. I even considered putting things back together to take it to a shop. Luckily I asked around and got some opinions on how to do it.

IF YOU KNOW YOU ARE PULLING THE ENGINE, either have your AC drained by a shop BEFORE you start, drain it illegally after you start, or do what I did.

It's actually really easy to unbolt the compressor and leave ALL of the lines intact and the system completely sealed. I had to buy some "star point" or inverted torx sockets because you have to remove one of the studs from the block that the compressor rests on. It prevents the compressor from dropping but is also too long to pull the compressor off before it hits the frame. Once the stud is out the compressor is free to sit on the cross member and sway bar.

The only issue I ran in to was the passenger side motor mount was getting close to the ABS block. I unbolted the top bolt and dropped the rubber portion of the mount. I left the compressor sitting on the cross member and sway bar then once the passenger engine mount was off I carefully wiggly the compressor as I was lifting to get the oil pan above it. Once it was clear all it took was lifting it up and tilting the engine with the leveler to clear the condenser.

I was absolutely surprised with how easy it ended up being. I took a lot of time before I was ready to actually pull the engine and it made everything go super smooth.
 

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Yeah that's crap :mad:, i would be dropping it off at their doorstep and demanding a refund. Its secondhand so its never going to be mint, but that has had water sitting in it for a while. I'm not sure how it works in the US but in NZ there is a consumer guarantees act in place where a business must guaranty the item for a period of time (maybe 28 days?), so this kind of thing is covered in case it happens. Different if it is a personal sale, its "as it where is" for us then.

Looking at it by the numbers if the bearings are ok you could assume the engine has been treated well when it was in use, in which case the rust and crap in the bore is probably when the cut the engine out to send it to you, so chances are it "should" be in reasonable condition under the rust and grime. However if you have the engine this far apart and have the money available i would refresh it anyway with new rings and bearings, pistons and rods should be fine unless you are going for the huge power numbers. Its like changing the cam and crank seals when you are doing the timing belt or a clutch, may as well change a few of the wear and tear items while you are almost there and save having to do it all again later. Then its basically a new long block.

How does the head and valve seats look?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,932
Yeah that's crap :mad:, i would be dropping it off at their doorstep and demanding a refund. Its secondhand so its never going to be mint, but that has had water sitting in it for a while. I'm not sure how it works in the US but in NZ there is a consumer guarantees act in place where a business must guaranty the item for a period of time (maybe 28 days?), so this kind of thing is covered in case it happens. Different if it is a personal sale, its "as it where is" for us then.

Looking at it by the numbers if the bearings are ok you could assume the engine has been treated well when it was in use, in which case the rust and crap in the bore is probably when the cut the engine out to send it to you, so chances are it "should" be in reasonable condition under the rust and grime. However if you have the engine this far apart and have the money available i would refresh it anyway with new rings and bearings, pistons and rods should be fine unless you are going for the huge power numbers. Its like changing the cam and crank seals when you are doing the timing belt or a clutch, may as well change a few of the wear and tear items while you are almost there and save having to do it all again later. Then its basically a new long block.

How does the head and valve seats look?
So they have a 30 day start up warranty thing, but if you read the fine print it's voided if the engine is not installed by a certified mechanic. So that's pretty much their way around any sort of responsibility. They said to start it and if it doesn't run they will warranty it, but after the money and work I've put in to it already, I'm not going to rush it now.

Yes, that's where I'm at. I don't plan for big power so factory internals are fine. Just have to decide if I need to pull them and do new rings and bearings and have the cylinders honed or if it'll clean up enough to be fine.

Haven't look at the block in over a week, and didn't look at the head close enough when we pulled it. I did have someone recommend replacing valve stem seals already, so I went ahead and bought them. Hoping to get some work done on things this weekend.
 

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lol, sounds like you are half way to a full rebuild anyway then ;)

I still have my dads mantras rattling round my head whenever i think about that kind of thing . . . "Do it once, do it right" . . . "if a jobs worth doin' its worth doin' well" . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #1,934
lol I've been trying to go by those and keep my wife from murdering me. And trying to keep it from turning into one of those "builds" that gets dragged out for months on end, turns into years, and is never finished. It's still in the back of my head that I may need a new turbo, if I need a new turbo do I go top mount and tubular manifold? That of course means I'll need a standalone so then I'm looking at the Link ECU from Xcessive. So there is still that on top of possibly block work.

I'm reaching the top end of my estimated budget that's for damn sure and while rings and bearings aren't too expensive, I'm reaching the limits of what I am comfortable doing and I was trying to avoid machine work if possible.

It is what it is though, and I definitely have some decisions to make before I get much further.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,935
Received new OEM head gasket, intake valve stem seals, exhaust valve stem seals, (2) 1/8" NPT plugs, OEM water neck gasket, and Xcessive transmission mount

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

ARP Head studs, 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting, -10AN to 5/8" Barb fitting, liquid sealant, and 1/8" male NPT to 1/8" female BSPT adapter.
Plan is to pull the coolant port press fitting on the back of the head and drill tap for 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting, then attach the -10AN to 5/8" barb fitting. Then run a hose back to the heater core. Apparently this is a common leak point for coolant and is a PAIN to get to with the engine in the car, so it's been recommended to me to go ahead and do it now.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

And this is the start of my oil filter relocation / cooler setup.
Drift motion billet block adapter with orb to -10AN fittings - will run AN lines to oil filter relocation adapter
1/8" npt plug - plug 1/8" port for oil pressure or oil temp
1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter

So the Toyota factory oil pressure sending unit or sensor is 1/8" BSPT threads, so the 1/8" NPT adapter threads into the DM block and then the oil pressure sensor will fit in the adapter. This should allow me to use the factory oil sensor, factory plug, and the oil pressure gauge on the dash should work. That's the hope. I still need to see if the oil pressure sensor will even fit with the -10AN lines on the DM adapter.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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I was going to ask why you were buying NPT plugs with the head set, im guessing for the filter relocation? Toyota/Lexus will be all BSP fittings, some you can interchange with NPT but not a lot.

At least the turbo can be rebuilt or a secondhand unit sourced for now....
 

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The 1JZ oil pressure sensor is just a switch, but if you fit the old one it should work with your gauges if everything else is wired correctly. I fitted my Altezza oil pressure sensor to my 1J block, thread was the same. By the way, don't go crazy on the turbo plans. Not really necessary when a hybrid turbo (Driftmotion or Tomei M8280) can do 400 without having to swap manifolds, etc. Your gearbox won't handle the power anyway. A free flowing vvt-i will do around 330/340bhp, should be more than enough to have fun!
 

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The 1JZ oil pressure sensor is just a switch, but if you fit the old one it should work with your gauges if everything else is wired correctly. I fitted my Altezza oil pressure sensor to my 1J block, thread was the same. By the way, don't go crazy on the turbo plans. Not really necessary when a hybrid turbo (Driftmotion or Tomei M8280) can do 400 without having to swap manifolds, etc. Your gearbox won't handle the power anyway. A free flowing vvt-i will do around 330/340bhp, should be more than enough to have fun!
 

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Man, I sure am glad this thread is still going. Everything else seems to be dead. This is my new screenname as I got locked out of my old.
-BeansIS
 

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Discussion Starter #1,940
I was going to ask why you were buying NPT plugs with the head set, im guessing for the filter relocation? Toyota/Lexus will be all BSP fittings, some you can interchange with NPT but not a lot.

At least the turbo can be rebuilt or a secondhand unit sourced for now....
Yup, filter relocation stuff.

The 1JZ oil pressure sensor is just a switch, but if you fit the old one it should work with your gauges if everything else is wired correctly. I fitted my Altezza oil pressure sensor to my 1J block, thread was the same. By the way, don't go crazy on the turbo plans. Not really necessary when a hybrid turbo (Driftmotion or Tomei M8280) can do 400 without having to swap manifolds, etc. Your gearbox won't handle the power anyway. A free flowing vvt-i will do around 330/340bhp, should be more than enough to have fun!
Yes, I get them mixed up. I had removed the OEM switch on my 2jz and replaced with a sensor from a Tacoma so the oil pressure gauge on the Digital cluster would function. I plan to swap the sensor over but I am relocating the oil filter and deleting the factory oil cooler setup and my adapter has two 1/8" NPT ports. The factory switch and sensor are 1/8" BSP so I bought an adapter to run it

Man, I sure am glad this thread is still going. Everything else seems to be dead. This is my new screenname as I got locked out of my old.
-BeansIS
lolol good to hear from you man. This is going to be never ending it sure seems.
 
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