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Discussion Starter #1,881
Here are some other pictures from the last couple months. Nothing new.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Bought my wife a 2019 Tahoe so had to rearrange the garage to fit everything better. Really need a shed to get the mowers and some other stuff out of the garage. I'll get to it eventually.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,882
And now, we are current. Yesterday I had a "new" Altezza digital cluster delivered. The one that was in my car had around 172k "miles" on it. This one has 150k-ish which is much closer to actual mileage on my car. So I sold my original digital cluster for the lower mileage one.

Also picked up a Future Fab 1jz turbo elbow. I've been putting together a parts list for a 1jz swap and randomly saw they were on sale one day. Went ahead and jumped on it since I knew I would want one no matter what. Quality is great for sure!

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



So at this point, I had decided that I am moving forward and keeping the car with the intent to swap a 1jzgte vvti in it. I've got a parts list together and have bought another piece for it already. Hoping it's here next week but no big deal either way.

I looked at a motor this past week while I was traveling for work. Overall wasn't completely happy with it so I decided to pass for now.


My goal is to have a large majority of parts purchased in the next month or so, and if I haven't found a deal on a motor by Black Friday then I'll try to pick one up on sale around then. I intend to include a parts list of everything I purchase here and as much information on things as I can.

If anyone has advice, parts lists, parts you recommend or whatever feel free to share!
 

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I see you put the storage rack on "her" side hahahaha.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,885
Did you need any special tools for this? I'd love to redo all of my bushings, but I thought you had to have a shop press for that stuff
I did purchase an SPC Ball Joint Service kit from Figs a few years ago. Mainly bought it for the rear knuckle bearing and rear traction arm knuckle bushing, but will some improvisation you can use it on a quite a few other bushings for sure.


Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Honestly, the front upper control arm bushings are the most difficult that I have done. The poly bushings were just so long and stiff that it was difficult to get the "lip" of the bushing into the arm before the bushing would deflect and pop out. Definitely took some time to make it work. But if you've ever done bushings before I don't think you'll have any issues.

I've done the rear knuckle mount bushings/bearings, Diff ear mounts, diff subframe mounts, and the front upper control arms by myself with just chisels, hammer, hack saw, dremel, and the SPC tool. I had a friend do the front #1 and #2 lower control arm bushings because he had access to a press. I live 4.5 hours from him now so not really an option now.

I would be happy to work out something with you if you wanted to borrow the SPC tool. I may never use it again, but it has been worth buying so you may just decide to buy it lol.

I see you put the storage rack on "her" side hahahaha.
Lol well that actually was my side! all in all, there is about 4' or so extra depth to that side of the garage so it just works better for her now. But the rack and shelving were already in place. I just swapped the Fridge to the other side of the tire rack and then raised the ceiling hanging rack so the Tahoe would fit under it. I can still fit my bumpers up there so it's perfect.

Really, there is actually more free space in the garage with how it is arranged now so it's worked out pretty well.
 

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If anyone has advice, parts lists, parts you recommend or whatever feel free to share!
I've done quite a few 1jz swaps in the past 2 years and I accomplished them in a number of ways. I did the whole jdm ecu setup, is300 ecu with a piggyback/standalone and dual ecu setups.

In my opinion the easiest way to get it up and running is to use a jzs171 or jzx110 motorset with the LinkECU G4+ with the Panic plug and play harness. It will completely replace the entire stock ecu (Link puts them in the stock ECU casing which is awesome) and keeps all of the canbus features working. It is expensive, but you've never been the type to cheap out so I can say 100% it's worth it. Also FYI for anybody reading this, the LinkECU setup will ONLY work with manual transmissions.

If you go with the LinkECU, I'd recommend you do the DBW delete. It'll eliminate any hesitation in the DBW system and you don't have to worry about the APPS and DBW going bad.

If you stay with the stock ecu DO NOT do the DBW delete. The ecu will try to correct itself with the DBW motor and it'll go into limp mode. You can bypass this by disconnecting the APPS and running both signals off the TPS at the ecu and disconnecting the DBW motor, but you will have a CEL by doing that.

Motor wise, you already got the FutureFab downpipe, that's a nice piece. You should probably get a GS300 fuel line since the IS300 is slightly too short. You can bend the banjo fitting straight and it will reach, but if you don't want to modify anything you'll need a GS300 fuel line.

You will also need to relocate your power steering reservoir. The cost effective option is to get a SC400 reservior with the driftmotion fitting for the p/s pump. You can also use a Honda reservior which is around $12 new, but I like using the SC400 one because it's metal and Toyota parts on a Toyota.

Chase bays also has a full p/s relocation kit that replaces all of the lines with -an fittings and a new reservior with a optional p/s cooler. It's a very nice kit, but it is also expensive. You'll also lose the p/s sensor if you convert it to -an lines just FYI.

A fuel return line will also be necessary. The stock setup has the FPR at the rail and has a open barb. You could get a Aristo fuel hanger and just run a line to both sides and use hose clamps to secure it.

The other option is to delete the stock FPR completely and run a aftermarket FPR like a Aeromotive. You'll have to replace the fitting at the rail with a -an fitting and modify the stock hanger for a fuel return line. In my opinion this is probably the best route, especially if you plan on making more than stock power down the road.

The turbo itself should be checked for any shaft play and see if it's burning any oil. Driftmotion offers a rebuild service where they replace the core of the turbo with better steel internals compared to the stock ceramic. There's also the Tomei ARMS turbo, but that's pretty expensive. Overall just make sure the turbo is good, I had a friend seize up a turbo because the stock oil lines were not adequate, but it was a drift car.

As for the intercooler and exhaust, there isn't a off the shelf solution (well at least none that I know of at the time of this post) so that will have to be custom. The ABS doesn't have to be relocated, but the bracket will have to be removed for it to clear. It's possible to use the stock IS300 airbox which makes the setup look very OEM, but that will not be possible with a aftermarket J-pipe delete.

If you do keep stock jdm ecu, you will need to retain the MAF sensor, the stock MAF sensor is a bulky round fan looking thing and typically come bad. If you need a replacement, a MAF from a Subaru will work. I forgot the exact part number, but the connector is the same and it's the same style as the stock IS300 MAF. I think the one I used was from a bugeye WRX.

If you do get a J-pipe delete designed for a jzx100, the j-pipe will go right into the abs block and then it'll have to be relocated for sure.

The swap is pretty straightforward, I'm in the middle of swapping my friend's car right now with a AR5 transmission with the LinkECU setup. After this car I'm doing another friend's car, and he's keeping it auto so I'm going to wire in the jdm ecu with a a/c box from ALL4SWAP to keep his a/c working. There's plenty of ways to go about this, but here's my 2 cents on how I personally done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,887
I've done quite a few 1jz swaps in the past 2 years and I accomplished them in a number of ways. I did the whole jdm ecu setup, is300 ecu with a piggyback/standalone and dual ecu setups.

In my opinion the easiest way to get it up and running is to use a jzs171 or jzx110 motorset with the LinkECU G4+ with the Panic plug and play harness. It will completely replace the entire stock ecu (Link puts them in the stock ECU casing which is awesome) and keeps all of the canbus features working. It is expensive, but you've never been the type to cheap out so I can say 100% it's worth it. Also FYI for anybody reading this, the LinkECU setup will ONLY work with manual transmissions.

If you go with the LinkECU, I'd recommend you do the DBW delete. It'll eliminate any hesitation in the DBW system and you don't have to worry about the APPS and DBW going bad.

If you stay with the stock ecu DO NOT do the DBW delete. The ecu will try to correct itself with the DBW motor and it'll go into limp mode. You can bypass this by disconnecting the APPS and running both signals off the TPS at the ecu and disconnecting the DBW motor, but you will have a CEL by doing that.

Motor wise, you already got the FutureFab downpipe, that's a nice piece. You should probably get a GS300 fuel line since the IS300 is slightly too short. You can bend the banjo fitting straight and it will reach, but if you don't want to modify anything you'll need a GS300 fuel line.

You will also need to relocate your power steering reservoir. The cost effective option is to get a SC400 reservior with the driftmotion fitting for the p/s pump. You can also use a Honda reservior which is around $12 new, but I like using the SC400 one because it's metal and Toyota parts on a Toyota.

Chase bays also has a full p/s relocation kit that replaces all of the lines with -an fittings and a new reservior with a optional p/s cooler. It's a very nice kit, but it is also expensive. You'll also lose the p/s sensor if you convert it to -an lines just FYI.

A fuel return line will also be necessary. The stock setup has the FPR at the rail and has a open barb. You could get a Aristo fuel hanger and just run a line to both sides and use hose clamps to secure it.

The other option is to delete the stock FPR completely and run a aftermarket FPR like a Aeromotive. You'll have to replace the fitting at the rail with a -an fitting and modify the stock hanger for a fuel return line. In my opinion this is probably the best route, especially if you plan on making more than stock power down the road.

The turbo itself should be checked for any shaft play and see if it's burning any oil. Driftmotion offers a rebuild service where they replace the core of the turbo with better steel internals compared to the stock ceramic. There's also the Tomei ARMS turbo, but that's pretty expensive. Overall just make sure the turbo is good, I had a friend seize up a turbo because the stock oil lines were not adequate, but it was a drift car.

As for the intercooler and exhaust, there isn't a off the shelf solution (well at least none that I know of at the time of this post) so that will have to be custom. The ABS doesn't have to be relocated, but the bracket will have to be removed for it to clear. It's possible to use the stock IS300 airbox which makes the setup look very OEM, but that will not be possible with a aftermarket J-pipe delete.

If you do keep stock jdm ecu, you will need to retain the MAF sensor, the stock MAF sensor is a bulky round fan looking thing and typically come bad. If you need a replacement, a MAF from a Subaru will work. I forgot the exact part number, but the connector is the same and it's the same style as the stock IS300 MAF. I think the one I used was from a bugeye WRX.

If you do get a J-pipe delete designed for a jzx100, the j-pipe will go right into the abs block and then it'll have to be relocated for sure.

The swap is pretty straightforward, I'm in the middle of swapping my friend's car right now with a AR5 transmission with the LinkECU setup. After this car I'm doing another friend's car, and he's keeping it auto so I'm going to wire in the jdm ecu with a a/c box from ALL4SWAP to keep his a/c working. There's plenty of ways to go about this, but here's my 2 cents on how I personally done it.
Thank you dude. I've been talking to Chris about his plans and was planning on talking with you as I get deeper into things so I appreciate the help!

I've seen the Link setup, and it would be ideal for sure. Currently I plan to pick up a JZS171 or JZX110 motor set/ecu either way. I'll dive in to the wiring and see if I can get a better Idea of what all is required and if it comes down to it, I'll just wait a little longer and go with the Link setup.

This is great info for sure so I'll be referring back to this
 

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Discussion Starter #1,888
One piece I've always wanted is a Weld 1jzgte vvti "heat sink" spark plug cover. Went ahead and ordered one already and it was delivered today.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Large part of why I went ahead and ordered the Weld piece, is I impulsively bid on a set of Hyper Rev Altezza volumes. Glad I did, I've only breezed through them but there is a lot of cool shit in them. I'd like to scan as much of them as I can so they can be accessed online at some point

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,889
Just some random pictures of beading action

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Picked up 1jzgte vvti valve cover gaskets and turbo to downpipe gasket

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Also picked up exhaust manifold gaskets

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I am keeping a spreadsheet with all OEM part numbers for everything / a complete list of everything I buy so I'll share that at a later stage. I've bought a clutch kit and a lightweight flywheel that should be here Wednesday, I'll update then. Trying to hold off until Black Friday to purchase a big chunk of parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,890 (Edited)
Picked up a few things. ACT Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Washed the car again

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

DSC_7312 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I've ordered a few more parts already. I think they will start showing up next week. Have a few things I'm waiting to see if they will go on sale for Black Friday / Cyber Monday or not. Hopefully I'll be able to order a good bit more of my needed items in the next week.

I am going to be listing my Buddy Club Spec II axle back for sale soon. I went ahead and took a video of it since it was nice out today. This was a cold start after sitting for 48+ hours after the wash.

VIDEO -- CLICK TO WATCH / LISTEN
DSC_7315 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,891 (Edited)
And this is why I am selling the Buddy Club.

I purchased the "newly" released Greddy Supreme SP exhuast. It's 3" piping and an oval muffler with rolled tip. This is completely against what I thought I wanted and what I usually would go for, but I was having some terrible luck with exhausts. Tried to pick up a used Greddy Revolution RS but it was a back and forth somewhat frustration and ended up going no where. Then I paid someone to build me a custom exhaust based off of another 1jz swapped IS that was local to him. Well, life happened and he's now in the process of refunding me. It sucks he's going through some stuff but I was left looking for another option and am still out the majority of my money for now. I believe he will fully refund me and I'm giving him some time because I'm a nice guy and am not trying to put him in a worse position. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass.

Anyway, my factory resonator to Y pipe was rusted to hell. Bolts were completely fucked. Drilled the heads off of them and then popped the remaining stud and nut out. Worked really well, just took longer than I wanted because I had shitty drill bits. Bought new ones and went like cake. Came with 2 new gaskets and new hardware. Put anti-seize on the bolts so should be good to go.

Greddy fit up really easily, I was worried about it hanging super low and the muffler hitting the JDM bumper but it all fits well. I believe the tip rubs my rear lip a little bit so I'll have to look at it closer and modify as needed. The tip does stick out from the JDM rear bumper a good bit, but I don't mind it. I prefer the tip to stick out some and I think this is a happy medium.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Also received my Walbro fuel pump and install kit

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


And a Fluidampr Crank Pulley

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



VIDEO - Greddy Supreme SP - CLICK FOR VIDEO
I'll get a better video during the day, maybe this weekend. This was at 5pm so there was a lot of traffic passing by. Lots of road noise.

DSC_7316 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Your videos are set to private.

Damn! I wish I would have held off on buying the RS exhaust..that SP is more in-line with what I was looking for. How loud is it? The RS on my stock IS was very loud and drony. I had to wack an augar-style muffler into it to quiet it down to a reasonable level..and it's still louder than my old Apexi N1 lol
 

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Oh yeah that sounds pretty good. There's not any severe drone at 3000 rpms? Something must be wrong with mine. The drone was unbearable and it was definitely not just 1 db louder than yours as stated on the Greddy website..
 

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Discussion Starter #1,897
Oh yeah that sounds pretty good. There's not any severe drone at 3000 rpms? Something must be wrong with mine. The drone was unbearable and it was definitely not just 1 db louder than yours as stated on the Greddy website..
Honestly, I think I've only driven the car once since I installed it. Been busy with work, having to travel, holiday travels, and not driving it in shitty weather lol.

But definitely not severe drone at 3000rpms on the highway. Overall I feel like it's pretty quiet.

I wish I could hear one with no cats.
Unfortunately I won't be able to help :( I think no cats/full header/ypipe setup would sound really good though.

How do you compare the two in terms of volume and stuff? The new Greddy sounds and looks like my Manzo, kinda tame/quiet
Buddy Club was definitely louder and sounded "cooler" but it still wasn't obnoxiously loud. I preferred the sound of the BC but I wanted a full 3" exhaust and to minimize the amount of custom fab that I need to have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,898
Bunch of parts showed up this week.

Picked up a new oil pump off of eBay.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

My order from Drift Motion showed up.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New Crank Pulley Bolt

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Turbo to Manifold gasket

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Rear Main Seal

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Cam Seals

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Water Pump with Gaskets

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Timing Belt Idler

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Other parts that were ordered from Drift Motion

Thermostat
Timing Belt
Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Pulley Kit
Timing Belt Tensioner
Oil Dipstick O-ring
Valve cover seal Washers
Front Main Seal
VVTi cam gear Rebuild kit
Turbo Gasket Kit
Greddy magnetic oil drain plug
Thermolator Intake manifold gaskets
Intercooler


As of today (12-15-2019) this is my current parts list. The Greddy piece highlighted in yellow has not been delivered yet.

Parts List As Of 12.15 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

And as of today, this is the list of remaining parts to buy. This is not comprehensive and I'm sure I'm missing some things. Like injector o-rings, any kind of wiring jumper harness or materials, Link ECU if I decide to go that route, custom fab for intercooler piping, blah blah blah.

Parts Remaining As Of 12.15 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




My plan is to remove the factory windshield washer reservoir to make room for a Setrab oil cooler to be mounting in that area. Assuming it'll fit there. I don't plan to run an additional puller fan on the cooler. I'll use the Chase Bays windshield washer pump/reservoir and I should have room to mount it right in the spot of the factory filer location (I think).

Going to get the Drift Motion oil filter adapter to mount on the block, run AN lines to the Greddy thermostat/oil filter relocation block, and then run AN lines to the cooler.

Chase Bays power steering reservoir is pretty straight forward. Just need to figure out if I can mount it with my strut bar.

One of the things I'm not sure of is the fuel setup. I like the idea of the Aristo fuel pump hanger since it has factory feed and return ports so I don't have modify it. I think I'm set going that route, using the existing feed line, and just running a new return line. Where I'm not clear is what all I need on the fuel rail in terms of a regulator and fittings. I just need to do some more research on what others have done.




I am aware that a lot of the stuff I plan to do is over-kill, but I'd rather just do it now. I'd rather delay the install a little longer and spend a little more money to have it done. I want this to be as reliable as possible.
 
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