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RIP to the new fenders Corey.

Quit playing around with fenders and just buy JZX arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,844 (Edited)
Bought a Bride XAX 2 for a passenger seat. Need to pick up a seat rail/slider combo and put it in. Has a rip that my wife is going to sew up for me.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Had our dogs Christmas picture taken to benefit a local animal shelter.

DSC_5068 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I realized I left out introducing our newest dog... Long story short, a family member got him as a puppy even after being advised not to. We told him to let us know when he decided to get rid of him and in June we got that call. Our intentions were to foster and find a new home but we fell in love with him so he's part of our zoo now. His name is Max.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr





Sorry lol I know a lot of people don't care about any other aspect other than the IS300, but I enjoy seeing what other people do besides cars so I figured I'd share
 

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Discussion Starter #1,845
One of my favorite builds I follow on Instagram. Keep up the amazing work dude!
Thanks man!

I have the side signals on my mirrors and fenders. I don't even care if it is "tacky", my signals are super visible no matter what, which is the point. I'd only fill it in if you hate how they look.
I'm leaning towards keeping them now honestly. I need to check my wiring, I had the fender lights wired up originally. I don't remember if I used that for my mirror lights or not. Only one of my mirrors currently works though :( I need to pull it off and remove the signal to see if I can get someone to fix it. I think the lens cracked and got water on the circuit board.

RIP to the new fenders Corey.

Quit playing around with fenders and just buy JZX arms.
lololol if I can't figure out getting my fenders "pulled" soon I may have to. I don't reaaaally want to raise the car but we'll see. I may raise it a hair and add some camber all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,846
I bought some JDM fenders and have slowly been working on getting them on the car

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Working on adding some storage in the garage

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

I ordered a pair of fenders, received them, both were damaged. I was sent one replacement, which I thought was going to be for the driver side but ended up being for the passenger side. I had already started working on the driver fender as a "test" subject for hammering the fender lip flat so luckily I didn't screw it up.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



And this is how the car currently sits. Has a check engine light for a secondary o2 sensor. Karl Long o2 sim has been ordered but I'm still waiting on it... Battery is now dead because it's sat for about a month and a half and I left one of the doors open for a couple hours on accident the other day.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Need to figure out ride height so I can not destroy these fenders.
Need to get scheduled to have the fenders, hood, mirrors painted.
Need to try and get my passenger mirror LED fixed.
Need to get an alignment once height is finalized.
Need to order seat rail and slider so I can install passenger Bride.
Need o2 sim to arrive to I can get it in and get rid of the CEL.

Was trying to buy a pair of Advan RS in 18x10 +25 to replace my +15 pair, I think they're just a little too aggressive. +25 would be perfect in my opinion. Price is just a little high for me so I am having trouble justifying it when I need other parts lol


Painters tape on the garage floor is for size reference for a shed lol Looking to add a decent size shed to the back yard so I can get my mowers and some other lawn tools/equipment out of the garage.
 

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looking good! i just realized you hyper linked a lot of the cool stuff on page 1. so that kept me entertained for a while. lol

how are you liking the cusco upper arms? Im torn between getting the jsx100 cusco arms, or just going all out and buying s9. the altezza push start you installed was incredibly cool too (even cooler that is pNp). now i gotta find one on yahoo japan. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #1,848
looking good! i just realized you hyper linked a lot of the cool stuff on page 1. so that kept me entertained for a while. lol

how are you liking the cusco upper arms? Im torn between getting the jsx100 cusco arms, or just going all out and buying s9. the altezza push start you installed was incredibly cool too (even cooler that is pNp). now i gotta find one on yahoo japan. lol
Yeah, I've tried to hyperlink all the main posts back on the first page. I'll probably have to go back and update that soon lol

I've actually gone back to OEM from the Cusco arms. The adjustment is good, I was able to pull extra camber out (more positive) when being lowered with some of my early setups, and then I was able to gain more negative camber with them later one, but they are too bulky for going low. They banged the strut towers sooner than OEM would and would actually rest on the tower sooner than OEM so it limited how low you can go. Not to mention finding replacement parts are impossible and $$$. Replacement ball joints from Cusco were around $150-200 for a pair and most places didn't want to sell them.

I went back to OEM arms, but I had the ball joint replaced with a Moon Face Super Low Angle Ball joint. They are designed for lowered vehicles and actually give more clearance from the shock towers, similar to cutting the spindles. Unfortunately, the last time I looked they had discontinued selling the ball joints. They did sell replacement arms that included the ball joint but they were not adjustable. I have had zero issues with shock tower clearance with this setup. The only thing I will change in the near future is replacing the bushings that mount the arm to the shock tower with Super Pro from Figs. They aren't worn, but the front upper arms and rear upper arm bushings are the only two left untouched so I'll change them eventually.

If you don't need adjustable arms and want more camber, JZX100 are the way to go. Replacement ball joints can be purchased through Figs, same with the bushings. The only reason I didn't go that route is I'd like to stay around -4* camber max.

Serial9 look fantastic though. If I had to pick between OEM with Moon face ball joints and Super Pro and S9, I would do S9. I needed arms in a pinch and I don't think S9 were released at the point or I would have gone that route.

The push start is one of my favorite things lol it's really pointless since you still have to put the key it, turn ignition to on, and then push the button, but I never have to worry about breaking another key again. And it's not common at all so it's a cool discussion piece when people do notice.

Good luck finding one though, I spent a while looking. There have been a few I've seen come by in the last year or two but prices have kind of sky rocketed. I saw one with a buy it now price over $200. Something that may widen the search those is I believe the MR2 used the same push button and harness.
 

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thanks for that info, incredibly helpful. the mass hanging over the upper pickup point is what i was worried about and you just basically confirmed that (for cusco style FUCA). im surprised to see you on stock spindles for as low as you are.

i have seen the moonface balljoints too and from i understand, they are not available anymore. either way, i need something adjustable, so i just need to shell out for the S9 FUCA.

thanks for the tip on the MR2, i will certainly keep that in mind when looking. i really dont care if there are extra steps involved in starting the car, i just dig that there was an OEM option at one point in time for this chassis. keeping the key snapping thing at bay is another big plus for me. when i test drove my car at the dealer, i broke the key starting it at the test drive and once i bought the car they made me pay 20ish bucks to have a guy behind the parts counter glue it back together. they wouldnt throw it in as a freebie and readily admitted it 'would break again sometime down the line'. -____-

excited to see this thing one color!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,850
thanks for that info, incredibly helpful. the mass hanging over the upper pickup point is what i was worried about and you just basically confirmed that (for cusco style FUCA). im surprised to see you on stock spindles for as low as you are.

i have seen the moonface balljoints too and from i understand, they are not available anymore. either way, i need something adjustable, so i just need to shell out for the S9 FUCA.

thanks for the tip on the MR2, i will certainly keep that in mind when looking. i really dont care if there are extra steps involved in starting the car, i just dig that there was an OEM option at one point in time for this chassis. keeping the key snapping thing at bay is another big plus for me. when i test drove my car at the dealer, i broke the key starting it at the test drive and once i bought the car they made me pay 20ish bucks to have a guy behind the parts counter glue it back together. they wouldnt throw it in as a freebie and readily admitted it 'would break again sometime down the line'. -____-

excited to see this thing one color!
I've wanted to switch to shortened spindles, but I don't have anyone I can trust to do the work locally and I'm not sure I'm trusting enough to go with the options off of Yahoo lol. I'd love T Demand but I think they are $700+? I'm just holding out that Figs comes through and produces a modular front spindle lol

I was the same way with the push start. I enjoy it for the novelty of it. Like you said, OEM plug and play options are pretty cool in general lol

Me too! I need to stop being lazy and get the fenders worked out lol





I went through and updated the first post to include hyperlinks for all recent posts. Also added info on our newest dog since that was left out lol
 

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t demand is 1k+. figs and s9 are 700-900. im not sure how much i would trust the YJ specials, they arent braced. powered by max just started offering this service with aluminum and steel spindles. they do it the right way and jig up the spindles and brace them. if that was available to me at the time, i would have went the PBM route. i had to send mine to canada and a JZX tuner ended up doing them for me.

https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/LexusLS/multilink/LKMOD.html

they dont have the 1IS listed but they are willing to do a set so they can have a jig for future use.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,852
How in the world do guys with the o2 Sim from Karl Long pull the plug through the firewall? I removed my battery and the battery tray and it looks like a huge PITA lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



About a week ago I was working on my fenders, and left one of my doors open for about an hour or two. I hadn't driven the car in probably 2 weeks so I didn't think much of it when the battery died eventually. But I'm kind of worried now... I noticed some mouse shit in my engine bay while I was removing my battery the other night. I am going to pick up a battery charger/tender in the next few days but I looked through as much of the engine bay as I could and didn't see anything chewed up

No updates other than getting my o2 sim in... Need to figure out how to pull my front fenders, and going to have to raise it I guess. Can't turn as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,853
t demand is 1k+. figs and s9 are 700-900. im not sure how much i would trust the YJ specials, they arent braced. powered by max just started offering this service with aluminum and steel spindles. they do it the right way and jig up the spindles and brace them. if that was available to me at the time, i would have went the PBM route. i had to send mine to canada and a JZX tuner ended up doing them for me.

https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/LexusLS/multilink/LKMOD.html

they dont have the 1IS listed but they are willing to do a set so they can have a jig for future use.
Ugh. I want to do it but I don't NEED to lol. I'm not low enough anymore to need more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,854
Okay, so I'm 2 years late on this, but I wanted to share the information I gathered when I messed up replacing my door lock actuator.

So, 2 years I replaced my driver side door lock actuator, but in the process I got my door "locked" half-way shut. Luckily I had the door panel off, but it was still a complete pain in the ass.

First bit of advice, DO NO REMOVE THIS LAST REMAINING SCREW.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

That screw does not need to be removed for any reason what so ever, I thought it did and I was wrong.

But if you do, PAY ATTENTION. I did not. It's obvious to me now, but I didn't think anything of it at the time and just through the cover back on and put the screw back in.

When you remove the screw, the gold plate comes off and exposes the following.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

There is a tab that is very important. There is a matching slot on the other half that the tab fits into.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

So what happened to me, is the metal tab didn't go back into the slot that is on the tan/white-ish cam assembly. It actually went above it into the void. This actually prevented the cam from rotating enough to unlatch the door.

The open triangle portion above the red circled slot is where the metal tab went when I put it back together.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Since I had the door panel off when I shut the door, I was able to remove the actuator and gain some access to the latch assembly. I ended up buying a complete (used) replacement to study and that's where I noticed what happened. I couldn't find any other way to get the door open besides prying and bending and much of that assembly as I could to get the metal tab out of the way, and then I was able to stick a small flat head into the slot on the cam and rotate it to unlatch the door.

I believe I saw one other thread were someone did something similar so I figured I would share what to avoid while replacing the actuator. Obviously there a plenty of people that will say "yeah, dumbass, just don't remove that cover" but I didn't know and didn't see any DIY that had details so I was winging it.


It was an extremely satisfying feeling when the door finally unlatched though :lol: I fought it for over a month

These are the pieces that came off my car so you can kind of see they're a little bent. I kept them around just to take pictures of to post here to hopefully help someone eventually lol
 

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How in the world do guys with the o2 Sim from Karl Long pull the plug through the firewall? I removed my battery and the battery tray and it looks like a huge PITA lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



About a week ago I was working on my fenders, and left one of my doors open for about an hour or two. I hadn't driven the car in probably 2 weeks so I didn't think much of it when the battery died eventually. But I'm kind of worried now... I noticed some mouse shit in my engine bay while I was removing my battery the other night. I am going to pick up a battery charger/tender in the next few days but I looked through as much of the engine bay as I could and didn't see anything chewed up

No updates other than getting my o2 sim in... Need to figure out how to pull my front fenders, and going to have to raise it I guess. Can't turn as is.
I cut the wiring grommet and slide it through. Then put a little RTV to seal it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,857
Karl Long o2 Simulator is installed. I wasn't sure where to cut the grommet, so it's not the cleanest, but eventually got the plug through. Ended up having to have my wife help :lol:

Had to buy a battery charger/tender because the car wouldn't start. Got it started though so should be good to go.

Plug run through the grommet in the firewall

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Routed along the wiring harness

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Carpet trim removed, second plug/wiring run under the carpet

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pulled the carpet up to run the wiring along the harness under the carpet

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Wiring and box before being tucked int he fuse panel

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Existing plug and sim plug

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Cleaned up the bay a little

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




Also made another air bag resistor for the seat install and sat the seat in the car. Still need to figure out the seat rail/bracket so I can install it.

Apparently the sliders can be unbolted from the factory seat and can bolt up to the Bride seat? So I just need to buy a seat bracket (like Planted?) I think? That's my understanding of it I guess but I've been out of town since I pulled the seat so I haven't had time to look. Going to take a look at my seat this weekend and do some research to get a definitive answer on what I need.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



This passenger Bride completes my swap to cloth and pretty much completes my interior other than a few small changes that probably won't happen. I do need to refinish the spare dash I have so I can swap to a clean dash.

Only interior piece left that I know I want is a Do-Luck Floor Bar. I've passed a few up before because they still go for a pretty stupid price ($400+) so who knows if I will end up with one. I still don't really care to pay that much for one :lol:

I may consider getting a cloth shift boot and ebrake boot, but the ebrake handle itself is leather and I don't see a good way to change that so I will probably just leave it as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,858 (Edited)
Battery charger/tender is doing it's job. Raised the front end slightly, can now turn lock to lock without hitting fender. Was uneven by about 1cm also so evened it out.

Need to work on side skirt mounting, I've drilled holes on the passenger side but need to mess with the fender liner. Driver side needs holes drilled and fender liner adjusted.

Once I can mount side skirts I'll make sure the rear doesn't need to be raised.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Half way trying to clean up the bay. Need to clean along the fire wall and close around the engine itself. Mainly did around the radiator and chassis. Cooling plate isn't in place to make removing the grill and bumper easier. Trying to figure out when I can take it to get fenders and hood painted

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




Does anyone know of a company that makes an aluminum fan shroud for the IS? I'd like to do a slim electric fan setup with an aluminum shroud and external coolant overflow to get rid of the bulky stock fan/overflow combo. I haven't seen one, but maybe someone knows of one out there with out going custom.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,859 (Edited)
Did some work getting my fenders rolled/pulled, and raised the front slightly so I'm actually able to turn. Pretty happy with the height. I wish it was lower, but from a practicality standpoint this is much better.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Finally was able to pull the car out, start it, and drive it lol

Also had some concrete additions to our driveway poured. Full spot where the car is parked and a small turn around area on the opposite side

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Drove it to work a couple days in a row

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

I currently have alternating front lights for those that are detail oriented and may have noticed. Passenger side fender light is wired and functions. Driver side Ganador LED is wired and functions lol. I used the wiring for the fender light for the Ganador on the driver side so I need to modify that side and get the driver fender light functioning. Passenger side Ganador LED does not work currently, so I just used the wiring for the fender since I already had it set up. Plan is to try and get the Ganador LED fixed when I disassemble the mirror for paint

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,860 (Edited)
The other weekend I drove the IS from Jonesboro to Joplin. I had made plans months ago to go see a Metallica concert in Tulsa, OK with my dad, brother, and his wife so I decided I would drive the IS and get it aligned a shop I trust in Joplin.

Ended up going to the AFC championship game to see the Chiefs play that Sunday as well. Was a wild weekend :lol:

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Wheel specs are:

17x9 +29 215/45/18 -3* camber
18x10 +15 225/40/18 -2.8 camber

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Should have another update next weekend

Also updated my WTB thread if anyone has some cool/rare parts for sale.

I have my factory 2002+ flush mount spoiler for sale, and would also sell my Advans if any were interested in either.
 
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