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THE MAKER
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I can totally see that having an effect on the height for sure. I have my coilovers on the outer hole as well. I actually took a picture of them, and I think I need to move my sway bar endlink to one of the other holes.

DSC_1983 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Will that have an effect on the life of the shock? I'm considering doing it in the rear.

BTW, I should be PM'ing you in the next couple days for some parts :approve:



Thanks :approve:
It's all leverage. Giving the shock less leverage means an effectively lower spring rate, but also a little less effective damping due to the stroke reduction. It should not impact shock life as it is still within its normal stroke range, no end conditions.
Fig
 

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Discussion Starter #1,802
So just some small updates...

I sold my full Modellista Qualitat body kit to a guy in Florida who's car is going to look really cool. Excited to see it come together.
Sold my Vertex hood spoiler.
Sold my Carbing under brace.

I'll update with pictures soon ish, but haven't bought much. Been trying to sell all of my extra parts. I took a new job in Franklin, TN back in August so that's been a transition. Currently working from home with the intention of selling my house and moving out there.

Adopted another dog so the total is 3 now. He was found on the side of the highway with some road rash but was otherwise uninjured. My wife and I took him in as a foster, found him a home, unfortunately that didn't work out, and it was clear when we brought him back that he and Luna (our other white dog) had formed a bond so we kept him.

DSC_7103 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

DSC_6674 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Umm... I bought a driver seat, swapped to cloth rear seats, cloth door panels, cloth arm rest, bought a new rear spoiler... I think that's pretty much it. My car is currently at the body shop getting Elixir fitted and painted, so I've been waiting to take pictures of the seat until I get the car back and put it in. I bought BN Sports front fenders so I'll need to get them painted (they have not arrived yet) and I might have my mirrors painted at the same time. That will depend, my passenger side LED works and I have it wired to function with my turn signals, but the passenger side doesn't work. I've got to see if I can source one or have it fixed. I don't really want to have them painted until I get that situation sorted.


I think that's pretty much it. I got a dual action polisher for Christmas (Griot's Garage 6") so since the 4runner has been in the garage I've been working on some paint correction with it. "Finished" it this weekend but it's been raining so no pics of it lol. I'm going to Franklin for work this week so no updates for another week or so.

If anyone wants my OEM flush mount trunk spoiler, rear leather seats, leather door panels, let me know.


If anyone knows of an Elixir hood or Do Luck floor bar, let me know. Not many pieces left I want, but those are two that I do.



I'm going through and trying to fix all the broken pictures. I can't get into one of my photobucket accounts right now, and unfortunately I think the majority of my pictures are there :(. I've gone through the first 20 or so pages (based on how many posts you see per page, I see 60 pages) but that's where I get stuck. I will continue to update when I have the opportunity, will also update my first post to continue the hotlinking to all major posts/pictures.


Please, if you have questions don't PM me here. They get forgotten. Instagram is very easy, same username here and there, and you can find me on Facebook from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,803
Also, very disappointed with the body shop so far. It’s a friends shop, and I know he means well and has much higher paying jobs, but the car has been there for going on 3 months. I trust him to do the job and do it well, I just shouldn’t have told him I had no real time frame. So partially my fault.

Just disappointing because I wanted to finish up my rear suspension and swap in both pair of diff bushings, and refinish my dash this winter. Not to mention I wanted the kit to sit and “cure” before driving it too much. Now I’m going to get it back right as spring comes around

And on top of that, as soon as we list our house for sale (which I’m hoping will be in the next month or two) we’ll be packing up to move. I wanted to have the car back and dialed in before the move.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,804
It's all leverage. Giving the shock less leverage means an effectively lower spring rate, but also a little less effective damping due to the stroke reduction. It should not impact shock life as it is still within its normal stroke range, no end conditions.
Fig
Lol I’m assuming you got a notification for this post, and I appreciate the response

But that’s like 7 years old! I’m on another set of your mega arms now and new coilovers 🤣 all from you of course
 

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Discussion Starter #1,806
I'm glad someone else enjoys seeing them lol





Been busy updating the pictures throughout. Making progress and have about 2/3's of all the pages pictures restored.

Figured I would give a small update though...

So I bought a 4runner and decided to start cleaning it up this year. It wasn't in bad shape by any means but I wanted to do what I could with it. Started on the interior and shampoo'd the carpets and stuff. Pulled the seats all out to use leather cleaner and conditioner. The bottom of the rear seats have been removed for more space for the dogs lololol. If my wife and I are traveling with more than just the two of us, or going anywhere without the dogs, we take her Mazda so the rear seats don't ever get used. A fitted sheet over the back works REALLY well to keep the carpets clean of dirt and dog hair by the way!

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Before:
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


After:
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Before:
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

After:
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Not long after we got the 4runner, I noticed a weird smell/noise from the rear. I replaced the driver rear caliper and put new Toyota rotors and pads on it and it seemed to take care of the issue.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr





I also had Toyota change the timing belt and a few other parts not long after we got it. I didn't feel comfortable not knowing 100% if it had been changed since it had 145k miles on it, so I went ahead and bit the bullet and got it done. Other than take care of a few maintenance items that I know will need addressed at some point, I don't really have any plans for it.

Only real items of interest are retrofit head lights and maybe some LEDs to brighten up the interior when needed. Keeping it maintained is my main priority.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,807
As for the IS...

This is I think the last picture I took of Modellista which is now sold.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


I took apart my Karl Sport Short Shifter. After making my trip to Kansas City I noticed the shifter felt really sloppy. Eventually pulled it out and the rubber insulator had completely deteriorated. I lucked into having an email from Karl still so shot him a message and as luck would have it, he responded within 15 minutes and provided with more than I expected. I was able to purchased the exact material originally used and now have 2 extra sleeves. Of course, I did have to cut and drill them myself with limited tools, but I made it work lol. Definitely not the same "quality" as originally provided but no one will ever see it.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Swapped rear seats, door panels, and arm rest...

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


This will be taking the place of my driver seat...

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


I tore it all apart to clean. Had a funky kind of smell lol got most of it out, fabric is a little faded so didn't clean up much

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Street Faction seat bracket and slider

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Obviously don't have the seat in the car since it's still at the body shop, but it's comfortable to play some super nintendo in. Hoping to pick up an all black Bride Ergo 2, Brix 2, or XAX 2 sometime this year to complete it.



Then, I bought this spoiler and have no idea what it is.. It's not TRD, it's not RMM unless they were sold in Japan. I bought it used off an auction labeled as "TRD??" lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



And that ^^^ is how the car sat the last time I saw it.





Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I think that's pretty much everything up until this point. As I update the rest of this thread I'll update if I come across anything else. Or if I get my car back lol
 

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Discussion Starter #1,808
Finished my attempt at paint correction on the 4Runner. Definitely not perfect, but it's much better than it was when I got it. Just going to try to keep it close to this condition while I have it.


Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I have no plans to mod the 4Runner. Wheels would be cool, but I would rather spend the money that I would spend on truck TE37 on the IS lol. Only real changes that will be made are front window tint and I would like to do something different with the head lights. Projector retrofit would be sweet, just money on the 4Runner vs money on the IS lol


Hoping I'll be able to pick up my car in less than 2 weeks. Cross your fingers.

I think I've fixed all of the broken photobucket pictures so that's sweet. I think everything is up to date too.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,809
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Got my car back from paint a few weeks ago. Had a lot going on with work/life. Spent 3 days in California, had a grandfather pass away which required two weekend trips in a row, and just overall busy.

I manage to get my grill and fog lights mounted on my bumper. Elixir came with some silver mesh so I used plastidip to paint it all black.

Also put my Volks back on. I didn't have any real interested buyers so I'll be keeping them until either someone gives me a good offer or I buy something else.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Mounted my ballasts for my HID fog lights that haven't been used in a few years lol they still work so that's sweet.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Then I began work doing some "paint correction". I've had this car for over 10 years and the most I've done is clay bar and wax. I didn't want to go too aggressive yet so just used a middle ground polish/pad combo and was able to remove swirls and some minor defects. There is definitely some deeper stuff still there, but I wanted to just do a one step in order to move on to other projects so I can drive the car. I'll see how it looks in the sun and re-evaluate and can do a more thorough (attempt) at a correction over winter or whatever.

My rear bumper was the worst. I actually didn't realize how bad it was until AFTER I got the car back from paint. I bought it used from Japan and it was the same paint code, and I opted to not have it painted. I was nervous once I started looking at it again but I was able to remove most of the defects so I'll be happy with it for now. There are a few marks/scratches down to the plastic that I can do nothing with other than repaint. Most are on the bottom portion that will be covered with the Elixir lip.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




So I finished that, waxed the car, and then test fit the side skirt to verify height. Ended up raising the rear about 1/2" and adding a 10mm spacer.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Unfortunately, I won't be getting BN Sports fenders. At least not yet. My fenders are awful and it bugs me, but I was shown a deal on another item that's somewhat local to me. Still trying to finalize if I'm picking it up or not (Zac might be purchasing it and having it shipped to him). Once that deal is finalized I'll either be buying fenders or it'll be put on hold for another month or 6.


Now, I raised the car, added the spacers, and was torquing all my lug nuts (with a torque to same 76ftlbs I always do) when I had a lug stud snap. Luckily the lug nut wasn't cross threaded or anything so it came out of the nut no problem. Easy fix, I just need to buy new studs and have been lazy.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Not a huge rush, because I decided to go ahead and do my diff bushings before getting the car back on the road.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

It's gone fairly smoothly other than just some stupid hang ups. First night I ran into a semi-seized bolt so I couldn't get to the passenger side axle bolts. Soaked in PB blaster and it came out the next day. Got everything unbolted except the 3 allen head bolts to the subframe, and couldn't get any tools I owned in there lol. Went and bought a couple things, got them out no problem, everything was unbolted and ready to drop. Couldn't get the axles out of the stubs on the diff. Beat on them for a while and finally got both out, but ended up having to remove the axle back portion of my exhaust.

Currently, diff is on the floor. Everything is unbolted, but the drive shaft is not wanting to separate from the front flange of the diff. I beat on it last night until I smashed my hand/thumb with a dead blow and gave up. Soaked in PB blaster and didn't mess with it tonight. Will probably try to get it separated tomorrow but my thumb is killing me lol

I ordered some resistors so I could install my seat but they weren't ever delivered from Amazon? Just ordered some more that are supposed to be here Saturday. So at some point I'll take a minute to clean my interior and put the seat in.




I plan to take some pictures of the tools I ended up using to remove the diff and maybe some of the process of removing the bushings since I can't find much on it.
 

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love this build and that youve had the car for so long! if you are changing studs, i recommend you go to ARP studs. i have them on the front and they are awesome. will be doing the rear end shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,811
love this build and that youve had the car for so long! if you are changing studs, i recommend you go to ARP studs. i have them on the front and they are awesome. will be doing the rear end shortly.
Thank you!


I have had Ichiba extended studs front and rear for years, so I think it was just a unlucky deal. Never had a problem with them until this one, and I think it was my fault

But I was planning to go ARP, until I kept seeing that they’re too long to fit in the rear without removing the hub or ebrake assembly. I don’t want to deal with either of those lol if I had a press I would probably consider just doing it and replacing my wheel bearings for the hell of it but unfortunately I don’t lol

I think my Ichiba were 55mm so 2.165” whereas ARP are 2.6”. I know it was tight getting mine in there already so I imagine another 1/2” would be near impossible with removing parts. Even then, I’m not 100% sure it can be done just by removing the ebrake assembly. I don’t think I saw anyone confirm that and with it out of the way you’re still limited by the dust shield and crap

H&R sells studs too, but I couldn’t find IS300 specific and from ARPs specs, the IS has a knurl size that seems to be pretty unique. I have not contacted them yet but may do so over the weekend to see
 

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ah, i see. i didnt realize you already had aftermarket studs. that is also good to know about the rear hubs. i plan to take everything apart and redo bearings, so that shouldnt be an issue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,814
ah, i see. i didnt realize you already had aftermarket studs. that is also good to know about the rear hubs. i plan to take everything apart and redo bearings, so that shouldnt be an issue for me.
Yeah, if that's the plan it'll be no problem!

Nice to see you (and the car/build) still alive and kicking! Sorry to hear about your grandfather, but at least you're not letting life and stuff get you down. Good luck with the work you're doing, that stuff is no fun, but worth it in the end once it's all done.
Thanks man!

Yeah, I'm still here surprisingly lol. Just gotta hope this new look is worth all the $$$$ I've put into it, otherwise I'm probably done to be honest. It'll be time to move on if that's the case. I don't think it will be because I like what I see so far but you never know until it's all together. Hopefully I can wrap things up soon
 

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Discussion Starter #1,815
I'm out of town for work right now so figured I'd update since I've got some down time.

Almost done with the bushings. Removing the pinion bushings from the diff proved more difficult than expected. Granted I was only using a plastic dead blow hammer and some chisels for a while... A metal hammer sped things up for sure and an air hammer/chisel would have made things much much easier lol. I'm still new to replacing bushings so it was a learning process for me.

I would say if you're just using tools like I have, the best thing to do is to drop the diff, cut the center and as much rubber out as you can and make sure you remove the plastic ring from inside the bushing, and then fold the flanges of the cup up as much as you can. Once you've got them raised off the ears, I would cut them as far down into the ear as you can without cutting into the housings. I then hammered and folded the flanges in on themselves, flipped the diff over, and used that as a lip to "press" the bearings out.

Really, that probably isn't the easiest/best way to do it, but it did work for me after a lot of effort lol whatever. I didn't take pictures because most of the time I was filthy and frustrated.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


I wanted to finish those bushings before I moved onto the two in the subframe. I had heard the pinion bushings were more difficult, so I figured I might as well get the worst out of the way first.

So far, that's ended up to be true. Again, from what I found would be easiest I cut the rubber center section out of one of the bushings. Then I tried to fit a dremel with a cutoff wheel in there as much as I could to cut the sleeve. Also used a hack saw to reach a little further as well since that's all I had. Then I stuck a flathead screw driver under the lip and hammered it a little bit, worked up to a larger chisel, and then hammered from the opposite side once it was getting loose to just pop it out.

That worked fairly well, didn't require too much effort considering I was under the car (I did not drop or even lower the subframe) with very little room. I broke my box cutter/utility razor before I finished cutting the center section out on the second bushing so I only got one out before I stopped working on it.

I didn't take a before picture of the subframe bushings, but you can see the one on the driver side does show some wear. The passenger side was the same. The pictures are after I cut through the passenger side and they are liquid filled.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I will be back in town Friday afternoon so I'm hoping I can at least have the other subframe bushing out and both installed on Saturday so I can start putting it all back together Sunday. New H&R extended wheel studs for the rear should be delivered Friday so I can knock those out too.


Two weekends ago I made an impulse decision thanks to Zac to drive a little over 10 hours round trip for a "local" deal. A guy was selling an authentic Chargespeed fiberglass hood with Aerocatch hood latches for a good deal so I decided to go pick it up. The guy didn't have the pins, hardware, or rubber stops for the latches but Aerocatch sells replacement parts so I ordered them from Summit Racing and all of that stuff was delivered last week. Already started working on cutting the pins down to shorter so I can get them installed. I swapped out my Figs hood struts for a pair of the lightweight FRP/CF pair that I bought a couple years ago lol

I'm still messing with the fitment, it's definitely not the best for some reason. I think once I've got the pins where it latches and holds the corners down it'll fit better so I can actually get it aligned right. We'll see

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

I guess I forgot to take a picture of the hardware kit and rubbers stops lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Trying to figure out whether or not I'm going to get some replacement fenders before I get the hood painted. Would prefer to get them done at the same time if I can.

That's pretty much everything for now. I finally received some resistors so I put my seat in but didn't take pictures. Battery is unhooked so it's dark lol

Really hoping I can get things back together this weekend but we'll see.
 

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if youve still got to get the passenger subframe bushing out check out battle version's IG, they uploaded a video not that long ago that shows a really easy way to get them out. also, thanks for the heads up on the pinion bushing!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,818
if youve still got to get the passenger subframe bushing out check out battle version's IG, they uploaded a video not that long ago that shows a really easy way to get them out. also, thanks for the heads up on the pinion bushing!
No problem man!

I did see the Battle Version video, definitely helped with the first one. I got the passenger side out super easy, but the driver side was much more stubborn. I guess I just had to cut the sleeve more but I finally got it out.

Chiseling from the back side definitely works though if you can get something under the lip. I just wasn't able to since I didn't drop the subframe.

How is the hood not fitting? Maybe it is warped? It also might be having clearance issues. Either that, or I just don't really notice any fitment issues on mine, since it's dark. (part of why I like having a dark colored car is so that all of the gaps aren't obvious)
I think it might not be as bad as I thought, but it is raised along the fenders. like the front along the grill / lips fits fine. And at the corners by the windshield and fenders fits okay, I need to line it up better. But the length portion running the length of the fender seems raised. I mounted one of the hood pins tonight and I think that will help a ton. At least in the picture I took it's not near as noticeable lol

I don't know, could be a lot of thinks. Light in my garage, the silver vs white, it's not lined up great yet so fitment may be off because of that.

I haven't had as much time to work on it as I would have liked, but I should be able to finish it up this week (I hope)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,819 (Edited)
Replaced all 10 rear wheel studs. Ended up with H&R 50mm studs part number 1255044. The knurl length is shorter than the Ichiba that I had, but they seem fine. I didn't really take many pictures lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


H&R 50mm
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Ichiba (don't remember exact size it was listed as)
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

How to remove old studs (Video)
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


How to get new studs in place (Video)
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

If the studs would have been any longer, they wouldn't have fit. These were pretty tight but easy to get in place once you figure it out.


Finally got the other bushing out of the subframe. Ended up having to cut multiple locations trying to relieve pressure. Eventually was able to hit it a few times with a hammer and pop it out.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




As things currently sit

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


I mounted the hood pin on the passenger side in a hole that wasn't being used. Had to cut the pin much shorter to get it to fit. I think I've got it set at a good height and having the pin tight helped with the fitment of the hood. Going to work on the driver side soon. There is an existing hole, but it's got some kind of plastic cover under it and I believe the hood latch cable and possibly something else runs under the core support or whatever. Wasn't wanting to take the front bumper off again but looks like I'm going to have to to see what's going on.

I'll be out of town basically Thursday - Sunday morning so I don't know if I'll get to it this week. Just need to get that hood pin mounted, check my oil level since I changed it while it was on jack stands, hook up the battery, and take it for a drive. As long as everything is good I'll put the rest of the kit on until I figure out fenders. And I need to swap over my windshield washer nozzles. They changed design in 2002 I think and the hood currently has the older style lol
 

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