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2001 - 2009 of 2009 Posts

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Discussion Starter #2,001
Okay, so been a while. Been fighting small issues.

Got coolant bled finally, but had a power steering leak, coolant leak, and injector leak.

Coolant leaks were fairly simple, just tightening clamps. So far so good since that's been finished up.

For injectors, I had replaced the o-rings and insulators with new ones from eBay before the engine went back together. However I did NOT lube them. I didn't know that was a thing so I think that lead to their failure. Really I had 2 leaking, one was pretty deformed but the rest looked okay. In any case, I replaced all of them with new insulators and o-rings from Toyota.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Toyota Part numbers:
23291-41010
90301-07024

Engine bay during the swap. I used Sil-Gylde lube when reinstalling and everything went together very smooth. Much smoother than the initial go around.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Back together

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


So I thought my power steering leak might be from the fitting on top of the pump, so I grabbed 2 new o-rings to be safe and replaced it. That was not the problem. The pump was leaking at the halves and the gasket. I ordered a new pump from Toyota and got it installed.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Got that swapped in and was having issues bleeding the power steering system but finally got it.



I made a big rookie mistake though. I was interested in seeing how the pump works since I've never seen one, so I pulled the failed pump apart. Right away I noticed I'm an idiot. When I pulled the pump off of the 2jz I removed two of the bolts holding the front half to the rear half of the pump.... so it only had 2 of 4 bolts holding the thing together of course it's going to leak. $350 mistake...

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Whatever. Basically everything is brand new at this point so it is what it is.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



So the initial stage of break in was to idle the engine 1500-2500rpm for a good 20-30 minutes. I ended up doing a couple different stages of this with break in oil and then changed the oil with more break in oil.

Now I've FINALLY started the driving phase. Going to put about 500 miles on it light driving and then do one more oil change with more break in oil and drive another 500 miles. Then I can put regular oil in.

So for now, light throttle, trying to keep rpm 3500-4000rpm max, light boost. I've put about 50-60 miles on it so far and everything seems to be going good. My oil temp gauge isn't functioning so I need to figure that out but it's not a huge deal at this point.

I'm also wondering if my fuel level arm may be stuck or caught. Gas gauge hasn't seem to move much. Going to keep an eye on it and fill up with fresh gas soon.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Right now, I'm just running the Future Fab turbo elbow. No other exhaust yet. I've got a "mid-pipe" that should work with some fabrication. Going by a place Friday for them to look at it and hoping the can squeeze me in in the next week or so.

In the mean time, I'm going to finally work on trimming the bumper to fit. Once the exhaust is done I'll put the rest of the kit on

Just in time for winter LOL
 

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Looking like its getting there! :cool:

In my experience o-rings really only fail like that due to environmental factors. Wrong o-ring material for handling fuel, or they are being used somewhere it is getting too hot. It might be worth going to a reputable local seal shop, so they can make sure you get the right product at the end of the day. Lube is really just for ease of install and maybe initial startup till they seat into place, as the fuel will end up washing out most of it.
 

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From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quarter of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarters (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
 

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From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quart of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarts (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
Interesting, when I got my Aristo hanger I swapped the IS300 fuel level sender portion into the Aristo assembly. Did you perform that step @white_is ?
 

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Discussion Starter #2,005
Looking like its getting there! :cool:

In my experience o-rings really only fail like that due to environmental factors. Wrong o-ring material for handling fuel, or they are being used somewhere it is getting too hot. It might be worth going to a reputable local seal shop, so they can make sure you get the right product at the end of the day. Lube is really just for ease of install and maybe initial startup till they seat into place, as the fuel will end up washing out most of it.
I really think it was just me going in dry with them and pinched a couple. I haven't had any issues so far but I'm keeping an eye on them.

From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quarter of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarters (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
Interesting, when I got my Aristo hanger I swapped the IS300 fuel level sender portion into the Aristo assembly. Did you perform that step @white_is ?
I had a control box from Russia added that is supposed to fix the fuel gauge issue, that's why I think it was an install error on my part. I did swap the fuel level arm if that's what you are talking about Mzs14? I filled up a full tank a while back, but for reasons I'll discuss in the next post I haven't been driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,006
So messing with exhaust a while back. I had purchased a downpipe + mid pipe combo off ebay hoping that they would line up pretty close and I could use them with minor fab work. They did not line up once I got under the car. I really only planned to use the mid pipe since I had the future fab elbow but it just didn't line up close at all. It's made for a top mount turbo setup so there ya go.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

I went ahead and bought a second "down pipe" hoping that it would be closer. It indeed was, but still required modification.

Now "why did you just take it to a shop and have one fabbed"? Well that was my plan. But you see, I live in backward ass north east Arkansas and it's not exactly the pinnacle of performance shops, import shops, or low car friendly shops. I talked to a few guys in town, had a couple places recommended to me, but it came down to two shops. One said they couldn't do it any time soon (3+ month wait). The other said no way they could get it on their lift.

Talked to a guy about 2.5 hours away that probably could have done it, but he was also about 3 months out. My other options were driving the car 4+ hours one way to shops closer to where some of my good friends live.

Ended up convincing a good friend here that it wouldn't be that bad and he let me throw my car on his lift. His dad came over and we got it knocked out in about 2 hours. The welds aren't pretty, but it's done and it fits. If I have issues with it down the road I can now much more comfortably take it and have a nicer piece fabbed. But for now, it's nice to have this thing quiet.

Stock turbo
Future Fab Elbow
Modded ebay down/mid pipe
Greddy SP supreme cat back

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

That was around November 8th. I think I drove it to work on the 9th and when I got back that night I thought the car sounded funny.

Car was warm from driving here.
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

On the 9th I was going to drive it to work that morning, started it up and again didn't like how it sounded.
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Decided not to drive it to work. Came home on lunch the same day and tried to get another video of it.
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

So at this point I'm pretty well starting to freak out and don't really know what to do. Decided to pull the valve covers off on the 10th and check out the cams and verify valve lash.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

My friend was getting married in Colorado, so I was out of town basically the 11th-16th. Didn't feel like messing with it when I got back.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,007
Pulled the spark plugs the 18th.
Verified timing was set correct.
Verified valve lash.
Checked a few cam journals.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Plugs look fine.
Timing is good.
Intake valve 8 is .001" too loose but I don't think it's reason for concern or enough to warrant pulling the came to reshim
Cam journals look good.

Last night, I pulled the oil filter, drained the oil, cut the filter open to inspect, collected oil from the pan into a clear cup.
Nothing abnormal. Lots of fine shavings but talking to friends, it looks good and to be expected with a "new" engine.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

(Large spots are bubbles, I confirmed)
by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Right now, I've got the spark plugs back in and torqued to spec, and any cam caps that were removed had assembly lube added and then torqued back on.
Need to remove the old silicone from the valve covers and then put them back on
 

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Discussion Starter #2,008
So about the valvetrain / knocking / ticking / card in spokes noise. I've asked around to quite a few people, posted on Instagram, and did some searching through old threads here, supraforums, and jzx forums. Apparently this is a COMMON thing caused by a lack of oil pressure in the vvti cam gear at lower RPMs.

It usually is only brought on by more aggressive cams, valve springs and retainers, or a combo of both. I noticed more people saying they were having the same issue with Brian Crower 272 cams, which "require" the use of stiffer valve springs. Some guys with 264s did not report a problem, which I account to them not having stiffer springs. 264's + stiffer springs which is what I am running.

It's very odd, but the consensus I saw/heard is that nothing is being damaged and it's normal. So for now, I have to live with it.

Now many of these guys were running standalone ecus and were able to change vvti advance by a hair so that there was a bit more oil pressure in it. This seems to be the only way to bring the noise down. Since I'm on stock ECU, I can't do that.

There were also a few people that replaced the vvti cam gear with a new one, and the noise persisted.

 

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I live in backward ass north east Arkansas and it's not exactly the pinnacle of performance shops
😂 Man I know the feeling...eastern Oklahoma not any better. Midpipe/downpipe looks good from what I can see. Sucks about the VVTi gear noise. I’ve never heard it in person, but I have heard of it. When I installed/lashed my GSC cams I also put a Fluidampr crank pulley on the car. It had these two little nubs on the back of the pulley and they hit the lower timing cover at certain rpms. I’d convinced myself that I’d bent a cam because if you read all the warnings and horror stories about snapping billet cams while torquing the caps down it scares the hell out of you. I swore the noise sounded like it was at the exhaust cam. Must have been the timing covers funneling the sound up. Before I’d figured out the source, I’d taken the cams out and rechecked lash and even put a dial indicator on the cams. Lot of work but no harm thankfully. Hope yours is the same, no real problem. 👍🏼
 
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