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Discussion Starter #1,981
Thanks guys. It's definitely getting closer. Harness is the biggest hold up but the MPX box from Russia "should" have been delivered yesterday. Which means the harness should be completely done in "a week or 2".

We'll see...

Wired my fuel pump hanger for the Walbro

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New oil filter housing o-ring

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New fuel line for my return and clamps

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Paint supplies for my dash. Hoping I can get this knocked out with my buddy this weekend.

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Brian Crower recommends a conventional break in oil so I picked up 6 quarts of this.

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Discussion Starter #1,983
Pick up generic intercooler piping kit

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Pick up an HKS FCD because it was a good price. Don't know if I'll end up using it or not, but a couple people have recommended getting one so I grabbed it while it was available.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pick up some air fresheners from Austin with Never Content!

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

FINALLY painted my spare dash

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Cleaned up my A-pillars with dish soap and a toothbrush

Before
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After
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Partially have my interior back together
Gauges are all wired in, plugs are run through the firewall to the engine bay
Need to clean up the hole I've drilled through the dash tray for gauge wiring, and drill a hole in the felt cover, then I will paint that piece
Need to paint my glove box
Then I'll put it back together for the most part

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While trying to get the panel under the steering column back on, I broke the pin on my push start switch. I've found a replacement and will go ahead and order two soon.

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Bought a black K&N intake filter

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Bought a generic "IS300 down pipe kit" from Ebay hoping it would be close. I don't think it's very close LOL but once I get the engine in I'll see if it'll be worth trying to have modified or if I just need something completely custom made

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

After talking with a few friends, I bought some more break in oil. Plan is:

start and run 20-30 minutes (this follows Brian Crowers recommended break in for the cam shafts)
change oil
drive 250 miles (no WOT, no high RPM)
change oil
drive 250 miles
change oil
then put in regular oil

That may end of varying some, need to look at the break in for the clutch/flywheel too

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Unfortunately, that's where things sit right now. I hope to have the interior finished this weekend but there's not a whole lot else I can do worthwhile currently. My harness is still being built and "should" ship next week. The jumper harness is at least done...

Lost a lot of motivation dealing with the harness but painting the dash has helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,984
I figured I would just wing it once the engine is in place and figure out what is what, but I've noticed two things I'm not sure of in the engine bay right now.

First is some vacuum lines and little valve thing on the exhaust/passenger side of the bay. Pretty sure it was tied into the intake but I'm not sure what I need to do with it. Should I just leave it and tie it in to the intake? or can it be removed? Where does it go? there is a hard line that runs along the firewall and towards the back of the car I think. Is it related to the charcoal cannister?

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Second question is about a hardline low on the firewall on the driver side. Near the fuel feed line / steering shaft. For the life of me, I cannot remember what went there lol. I sold my GE too so I can't look at it anymore and see what it was.

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I'm sure I'm going to have plenty more questions once I start putting everything back in the car but those are my only questions right now.
 

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Second question is about a hardline low on the firewall on the driver side. Near the fuel feed line / steering shaft. For the life of me, I cannot remember what went there lol. I sold my GE too so I can't look at it anymore and see what it was.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I'm sure I'm going to have plenty more questions once I start putting everything back in the car but those are my only questions right now.
I might be completely wrong since I haven't spent much time in that area of my engine bay, but it looks like that hard line on the driver side is an evap line, perhaps running from the tank, along the firewall with the ABS lines, and to the vapor canister below where the stock ABS location and O2 sensor connectors were. I know a couple people who deleted evap and used that hard line for something else like fuel return.
 

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I cant see where the vacuum lines are heading for on mine to compare, im guessing they are going to be common for RHD to LHD. Theres a few lines back under the plastic cover near the throttle body, will have to pull the cover to look at them.

Is the hard line this one coming up to the EVAP valve?
135593
 

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Discussion Starter #1,987
I cant see where the vacuum lines are heading for on mine to compare, im guessing they are going to be common for RHD to LHD. Theres a few lines back under the plastic cover near the throttle body, will have to pull the cover to look at them.

Is the hard line this one coming up to the EVAP valve?
View attachment 135593
I might be completely wrong since I haven't spent much time in that area of my engine bay, but it looks like that hard line on the driver side is an evap line, perhaps running from the tank, along the firewall with the ABS lines, and to the vapor canister below where the stock ABS location and O2 sensor connectors were. I know a couple people who deleted evap and used that hard line for something else like fuel return.
Looks like both of you guys are correct. I think I have both figured out now
 

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Discussion Starter #1,988
Found replacement switches for the push start button. Fixed and replaced the push button already and back in place.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Interior back together for the most part.

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Picked up some little Altezza models lol

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Long awaited engine harness was delivered

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Jumper harness with MPX box

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Harness on and routed

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Fitting the 1jz ecu in the ECU box. the shape of the ECU is different than 2002+ so the white plastic had to be removed.

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Getting the engine/trans ready to mate

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Noticed I lost my 1j o2 sensor

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Fidanza flywheel on, pilot bearing in.

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Didn't realize I needed new clutch cover bolts. Picked up some OEM bolts from Toyota

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #1,989
Clutch on

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mated

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Did a lot of digging and talking to people to try to find a suitable replacement for the o2 sensor. Bosch 15739 or Denso 234-4206 should work as well, but the Denso 234-4157 comes prewired with the plug. Since I didn't have the plug I went ahead and go this one. The wiring is too short to reach the plug location if mounted on the bracket but you can see it does reach the plug on the harness.

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Bay ready

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In

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



That's where I am at today. May get out there tonight and work on a few things but not sure yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,993
Damn that flywheel looks sexy times! :cool:
Right, it's a shame to cover it up lol

Always nice to see updates!
Thanks! Good to know people still enjoy seeing this being dragged out lol

Congrats on getting the engine in place!

Did the All4Swap box come with the jumper harness?
Thanks!

Yes, Justin Collins (QFab Motorsports) modified the 1j harness and made the jumper harness. I had requested the All4Swap box be included so I wouldn't have to wire it in later.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,994
I have basically everything underneath torqued and in place. Driveshaft is in and ready.

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Ran my fuel feed line. I will be using the factory under body cover that will cover the fuel line so it should be okay. Going to leave it off until I get it started and running so it's easier to check for leaks, but I did put some of the other panels and the heat shield on the passenger side back in.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Found my o2 sensor I thought I lost... Will hang on to it as a back up

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Finally managed to grab some OEM black housing tail lights from Yahoo Japan. Been wanting a set for years and the time was okay for me to grab a set. They have chrome trim installed, kinda cool, kinda not sure how I feel about it. In any case, it will be removed to clean the lenses then I'll see what the chrome looks like lol.

No, I will not be selling either the white or the black set.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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After many back and forth arguments with my self and trying to figure out how to make oil pressure and oil temperature work, I think I finally have the solution. I'm going to run the Drift motion oil block adapter on the engine with a 1/8" npt to -4an oil line, -4an to 1/8" npt with a 1/8" npt to 1/8" bspt adapter, and the Toyota oil pressure sensor. This will be routed up and out of the way and the sensor will be mounted with a cushion clamp to the intake manifold. I think this will work for oil pressure and be clean enough.

There will be -10an feed and return from the DM block to a DM oil filter relocation block. I've got to figure out where I am going to mount that next. Then I can cut my line to length and get those lines run.

And the DM oil block adapter has a second 1/8" npt hole that I will run my oil temp sensor in.

I was running into issues with the Toyota oil pressure sensor hitting the 1j oil cooler setup, then hitting the AN fittings with the DM block adapter. So this seems to be the only way to make it work.

So I also have 10' of Fragola -10AN line, (2) 90 degree -10 fittings, and (2) straight fittings. The 1/8" to -4an adapter/fittings should be here tomorrow and I can get the oil line ran and sensor mounted.

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Three day weekend, so going to try to get a bunch of shit done. This list is a rough list off the top of my head, just trying to get as much done as I can.

Fill trans with fluid
Run oil pressure line
Mock up oil filter relocation
Mock up and cut intercooler piping
Bend ABS lines out of the way
Measure and run PCV, Heater core lines
Measure and cut front bumper to fit intercooler and piping


Once the oil lines are run I'll need to mount the AC compressor, power steering pump, install the PS pulley, install the lines for power steering, mount the PS reservoir.

Lots of stuff depends on finishing up the oil related stuff.





In order to get the AC compressor in place I ended up pulling the front sway bar off. Turns out one of my bushings was shot and fell apart. I've order Super Pro bushings from Figs, just waiting on them to arrive. Went ahead and ordered front and rear so I never have to worry about them again.


It's getting close man. Seeing the clutter and junk disappear as things get installed is great. Starting to get more motivation to get out and work on it, plus we are going to have some cooler weather over the next 10+ days.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,995
Trans is filled with fluid
intercooler piping is mocked up. may make a few minor adjustments, but eventually I want to have some fabbed so this doesn't have to be perfect.
ABS lines are moved out of the way
Fan shroud is trimmed so IC piping from the throttle body fits

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Going to spray some primer on the cut and then put some edge guard around the opening

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Going to redo my tape line for cutting the bumper

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Think I'm going to end up mounting my oil filter near the alternator. Will be tight but should work out.

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Will probably route the lines something like this. Up over the IC piping off the throttle body, then under the upper rad house.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Still need to see what will work best, but I think off the block I'll run straight fittings and then run 45degree at the oil filter. I have some 90degrees fittings too so I can see what works best



Superpro 30mm front and 19mm rear sway bar bushings for TRD Yellow sway bars

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Rear sway bar bushings are in.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,996
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Got everything back together. Bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge test kit. Ran the gauge from my oil filter relocation block up to the windshield so I could verify oil pressure before trying to start the car. Pulled spark plugs and coil packs, pulled EFI fuse, cranked until it built pressure. Found two oil leaks

One leak was on my AN line to the OEM oil pressure sensor. Forgot to tighten a fitting so easy fix

Second oil leak was a bitch. The hard line for the vvti solenoid was leaking. Turns out it was leaking up top because I didn't tighten it all the way, but it was also leaking at the bottom banjo bolt. I thought I left a crush washer off the back side but after tearing it apart, I had painted the surface for the crush washer when the block was painted. I didn't strip this before putting it back together. So, some busted hands, a razor blade and some paint thinner took care of it. Put it all back together last night.

I had gone ahead and bought 8 crush washers just in case, and replaced all 4 on the hardline to be safe.

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This was the first time applying power to the gauges making sure they all kicked on

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First video of it running.

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And videos from last night after fixing the leaks

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Ran out of coolant, so I picked some more up today. Last night I let the car run for a while to "break in" the cams. 15 minutes with heat on. AC works, heat works, fans work. Ran it a second 15 minutes before my wife got tired of it lol

Going to top off coolant tonight, change the oil for some more break in oil, remove the mechanical oil pressure gauge, put the front of the car on the ground, and try to figure out my throttle cable.

Everyone said the MK4 Supra throttle cable fits great, but mine seems too long. I realized late last night I had the pedal end wrong, the rubber stopper was behind the pedal. That helped some but there is still too much slack. Another guy mentioned the throttle body end has two locations for it to attach and I may have it in the first one? idk but going to look at that tonight

Then I can start the actual break in process for everything

It's open downpipe right now. Hoping to take it to have a mid pipe fabbed in the next month



but, IT RUNS
 

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ignore all the dog hair. 2 huskies, 2 husky mixes, and a lab tend to shed quite a bit. will get it vacuumed and cleaned up soon. But interior is all back together.

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Put the hood and headlights back on today.

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Car moved under it's own power out of the garage

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I did not end up driving it other than in my drive way. I just had a feeling something was up and didn't feel right. I moved it up and down the drive way a few times, revved it, let it warm up good, but I was noticing a leak and my fans weren't kicking on.

I did not get my power steering bled correctly. So it was bubbling and leaking.

Was watching for my fans to kick on because I had yet to see them other than when I turned the AC on. And didn't feel like the coolant system was bled properly.

tried to bleed coolant again, but ended up just boiling for the second time. After talking to some friends we were wondering if it was possible the thermostat was in backwards. Decided I was going to check and pulled the lower rad hose off the thermostat but was completely unprepared for coolant lol

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Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


oops

so while I was cleaning it up I had sent a message to the guy that built my harness asking about fans and some other things. he asked about the lower rad switch

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Turns out, this needs to be plugged in...

I thought the plug was part of the 2jzge harness and the sensor just wasn't used any more. And I had seen this plug but thought it was part of the headlight wiring for some reason. So oops again.



that's where I stopped today. I'm going on a work trip this weekend so had taken today off. I'll be back Sunday afternoon but will probably be exhausted so idk if I'll work on it. I also took Monday off so I should be able to get it back together

Front is still up in the air so I'll hook the lower had hose back up, try to bleed coolant again, and try to bleed PS again.

I also moved the throttle cable bracket back a hole on the intake manifold. I don't think it's perfect or ideal, but it at least seems to work for now. I would like to figure out something better eventually.
 
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