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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a series of testing i'll be doing over the next oil change but wanted to get some thoughts from yall.

I have an 01 IS300 with ~102k miles on it. it had just under 101k miles when i bought it in July. So i have had it just under 3 months. I just finished doing the timing belt along with plugs, wires, water pump, seals and gaskets, new PCV, new oil pan, headers (because my cats were shot) and tons of other things that arent relevant i dont think. Also just did a trans fluid flush.

Put in 5.7 qts Mobile1 5W30 and Toyota filter when i did the oil change. Since doing the repairs, i have put just under 800 miles on it.

Now onto my issue. Yesterday i was leaving a store and started the car. I was sitting there idling and my low oil light came on. So I went directly home and checked it. Sure enough, nothing on the dips stick. WTH? So I added around 1.5 qts to get the oil level to finally get in between the dots on the dip stick. Again, it hasnt even been 800 miles since I did the oil.

Where has the oil gone? I leave no spots in the drive way. I have replaced all the seals but the rear main and the exterior of the motor is bone dry.

It has just finally started getting into fall weather here and I have noticed since putting on the header that the car seems to smoke a bit when warming up. I have a hard time telling if it is white smoke, steam, or if there may be some blue in it. And without the 2 primary cats, of course it smells terrible. Yesterday on a cold start it didnt smoke at all. Then after it started coming up to temp it started. Again, i cant tell if its the normal steam or if its smoke from oil burning. I have a video of that as well if it will help.

Note, this car seemed to have the oil changed every 5-6k miles but about once a year by the PO. It was not driven very much from the records so it sat a lot. The last recorded oil change before i bought is was January 2018 and ~6k miles was put on it from then to when I bought it.

I did a dry compression test before buttoning it all back up and i have attached the readings. I feel like my compression is very good. The difference in the low ones is from a little leak down I think from the time it took to get my phone and take the pics. I am wondering about cylinder 3 however. That was the worst condition of the old plugs i took out. The old plugs looked like crap when I removed them. The plug valley was full of oil from the leaking valve cover gaskets. I have pics of the old plugs if that would help.

I suppose i could have a bad valve or valve stem seal?

Thoughts? Seems like a LOT of oil lose in such a short time for it not to be blowing blue smoke like crazy or leaking it out. I am going to monitor it over the next oil change and few tanks of gas. And next change I am going to switch to conventional oil as a test. Also send some oil off for testing. I'll do a leak down test at some point as well.

133381
 

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First, I would use a much heavier oil. Around 10w40 or better. This may help and with the mileage. I would be running it anyway. Also i would only do 3000 or 3 months on the oil changes.

Yes, cylinder 3 does seem a bit low. Have you done a leak down compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok that makes since. Yeah I was going to do 3k oil changes. Next change I’ll try a thicker oil.

Have not done a leak down yet but it is on the list as my text test.

And just this morning the car broke down pulling into my drive way. VVTi OCV went. I cleaned it and the screen when I did all the other maintenance but oh well. That’s another issue easily resolved.
 

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So I still have not yet had time to do a leak down but pretty sure with the smoke I get on startup and the oil consumption that it is indeed valve seals. Now what’s y’alls opinion, should I do the method of putting rope into the cylinder to hold valves up and replace the seals or should I just pull off the head and do a head gasket and arp head studs also. I plan on going NA-T at some point so was thinking of doing the Supra gasket. But if I don’t ever fulfill that dream I’ll be kicking myself for doing that gasket and lowering my compression for no reason. It doesn’t need a head gasket. But thought well maybe I should do if I’m in it that far already. What sucks is I just did the TB, WP, and all the front end seals less than 800 miles ago.
 

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1.5 quarts in 800 miles is quite a bit. Personally, I'd just use compressed air or rope in the cylinder to hold the valves while replacing the seals. Why replace the hg right now if you're not sure what way you wanna go? Especially considering everything I've read says the OEM hg is sufficient at holding boost unless you're looking at going over 20lbs. The compression you lose by changing to a thicker hg will be detrimental to your engines efficiency and power. Also, as I stated above about the OEM hg holding boost, I'm a fan of running as high compression as you can get away with. Even when going forced induction. Low compression engines are poop in my opinion...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1.5 quarts in 800 miles is quite a bit. Personally, I'd just use compressed air or rope in the cylinder to hold the valves while replacing the seals. Why replace the hg right now if you're not sure what way you wanna go? Especially considering everything I've read says the OEM hg is sufficient at holding boost unless you're looking at going over 20lbs. The compression you lose by changing to a thicker hg will be detrimental to your engines efficiency and power. Also, as I stated above about the OEM hg holding boost, I'm a fan of running as high compression as you can get away with. Even when going forced induction. Low compression engines are poop in my opinion...
very good points. And yeah, it’s a lot of oil consumption for sure. As good as I’ve got this thing running I bet when that’s fixed my spark plugs will be super happy.
 

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So I still have not yet had time to do a leak down but pretty sure with the smoke I get on startup and the oil consumption that it is indeed valve seals. Now what’s y’alls opinion, should I do the method of putting rope into the cylinder to hold valves up and replace the seals or should I just pull off the head and do a head gasket and arp head studs also. I plan on going NA-T at some point so was thinking of doing the Supra gasket. But if I don’t ever fulfill that dream I’ll be kicking myself for doing that gasket and lowering my compression for no reason. It doesn’t need a head gasket. But thought well maybe I should do if I’m in it that far already. What sucks is I just did the TB, WP, and all the front end seals less than 800 miles ago.
There is an air compressor adapter to spark-plug hole. Compressed air generally holds the valves shut. As for compression deal. That will depend on the power and what you plan to do.
 

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There is an air compressor adapter to spark-plug hole. Compressed air generally holds the valves shut. As for compression deal. That will depend on the power and what you plan to do.
My HP goals are around 300. Nothing crazy just to be a little more fun. And then if, like most boosted situations, I want to turn up the wick, I’ll address the other issues caused by being over zealous. :devilish:

As for the compressed air thing, Mr Mayhem finds me pretty easily. Knowing my luck I’d some cause the air pressure to drop and then in goes the valves. ?‍♂
 

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My HP goals are around 300. Nothing crazy just to be a little more fun. And then if, like most boosted situations, I want to turn up the wick, I’ll address the other issues caused by being over zealous. :devilish:

As for the compressed air thing, Mr Mayhem finds me pretty easily. Knowing my luck I’d some cause the air pressure to drop and then in goes the valves. ?‍♂
It is super easy to get 350whp on a small turbo (6lbs) on stock internals.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It is super easy to get 350whp on a small turbo (6lbs) on stock internals.
That’s what I was thinking with my original plan with the car from research I had done before even buying it. Thank you for reinforcing that thought. I felt that doing the HG wasn’t really needed but wanted to run it by folks with more experience. After the new year once life calms down, I’ll be doing the leak down test and replacing the valve seals. Was planning on using the GSC seals.
 

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One thing about our cars, is that they have thin piston rings. 800 seems excessive. I have run low 2x, but just needed the oil flushed, engine cleaned out (debris gets gummed up in the rings), and then all is well. I think you are a bit past that though, but would hurt.
 

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I vote for the rope trick. And to buy the Toyo Tool valve compressor. Not the snap on or something off amazon. ToyoTool is worth every cent. And when you push that first valve spring down, and feel the keepers lock you will be glad you did it that way instead of using compressed air. I get it...that shops use compressed air and the piston @tdc should be pretty close to the valves so they shouldn’t drop but just having that rope shoving back against the spring compressor gives me a sense of confidence over air. I got a pretty big compressor at home but man what if that thing died midway or couldn’t keep up with the demand? Yeeesh. Hello Mayhem!
 
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