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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up guys. About a month ago I slammed up against a curb in some snow. I bent the right rear rim, so i put the spare on and got a new set of tires. Ever since the accident I have been hearing a slight metal scraping or grinding coming from the right rear wheel area. It sounds like my wheel bearing is f*****.

Whats the best route to take for replacing this and/or correctly diagnosing this as the problem? Is it a practical idea to order the part online from irontoad.com and try to install it myself? I'm fairly skilled with working on my car, but I don't know if there is a way to get around pressing the bearing in if it needs to be. Would it be a better idea to pay twice as much and go to my trusted mechanic to get it installed? Has anyone replaced one successfully?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone?
 

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I am no mechanic but I would jack that wheel up and spin it around to see if it really squeals from there. I don't know which wheel is your problem, but from looking at the shop manual (attached) there are too many special tools required to do the job. As me, I would take it to a Toyoya dealer since they may have the right tools and they cost less than Lexus dealer.
 

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I had it done a few months ago. Best price I could find was parkplace lexus:
Park Place Lexus Plano

You need a new wheel bearing, hub, and there's also a seal/gasket you'll need. The part needs to be pressed in, and since you want to make sure the work is done right go to a toyota dealership because then you get a 1 year warranty on parts/labor. I paid about 250 for labor and 190 for the parts, so yeah it's expensive. I asked to keep the original parts because I don't trust anybody nowadays, and sure enough there were metal shavings in the grease that surrounds the wheel bearing. Don't use off brand parts like they sell at autozone, go with genuine toyota. Also don't be cheap and reuse the original hub, because 9 times out of 10 you'll just end up with another failed bearing.
 

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Usually the hub will be fine. The reason why hub's get trashed is when the bearing gets destroyed in one way or another and you continue to drive on it, essentially welding the bearing to the race, which spins the race in the hub. That's when you have to replace it.
 

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I took mine in for an inspection because I heard a whirring kind of noise. I thought it could have been the diff. The mechanic assured me that the diffs almost never go out and was probably nothing serious. As I waited for a couple hours in the service waiting area they said they replaced some body/frame plugs. Oh, and by the way, we found the rear bearing was going out. Not to worry though it's under drivetrain warranty. (70k) We'll have to give you a loaner because we bent the brake dust plate. It'll be a day before we can get the part. The body plugs wern't covered under warranty but they took care of it out of good faith.
Awesome dealership experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What are body plugs? The general consensus is that I should go to a Toyota dealer to replace the bearing and not do it myself? What are some other possible causes of metal scraping noise in the rear?
 

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Tech said they're little plastic pieces that plug the holes in the frame/unibody. Holes probably provide access to bolts or something. Keep water out. Who knows. Anyway, what I neglected to mention before was that part of the sound I was hearing was air moving over these unplugged holes. Kinda of like when you blow across the top of a bottle. The other part was a grinding. That was definitely a bearing.

Bearings are probably something I wouldn't mess with. One, because I don't have a press and two...well, it's not a bike.

This may sound weird but if you have access to another set of rims and tires give those a shot and see if your car makes the same noise. Play with road noise contributing variables for the process of elimination.

Apply gentle pressure on your e-brake while you're driving and see if the noise changes.


Maybe you just need new e-brake shoes/pads.

Disassemble your rear brakes, clean and re assemble. Perhaps something in the brake drum/rotor shook loose during impact.

As far as the cause of the scraping if it is in fact the bearing; curb impact, bearing simply wore out prematurely due to imperfect part or improper factory installation, most likely the impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tech said they're little plastic pieces that plug the holes in the frame/unibody. Holes probably provide access to bolts or something. Keep water out. Who knows. Anyway, what I neglected to mention before was that part of the sound I was hearing was air moving over these unplugged holes. Kinda of like when you blow across the top of a bottle. The other part was a grinding. That was definitely a bearing.

Bearings are probably something I wouldn't mess with. One, because I don't have a press and two...well, it's not a bike.

This may sound weird but if you have access to another set of rims and tires give those a shot and see if your car makes the same noise. Play with road noise contributing variables for the process of elimination.

Apply gentle pressure on your e-brake while you're driving and see if the noise changes.


Maybe you just need new e-brake shoes/pads.

Disassemble your rear brakes, clean and re assemble. Perhaps something in the brake drum/rotor shook loose during impact.

As far as the cause of the scraping if it is in fact the bearing; curb impact, bearing simply wore out prematurely due to imperfect part or improper factory installation, most likely the impact.

Wow, thanks. You just made me 100% sure that It's the bearing. First, the noise was still there before I put my winter tires on. Second, I thought it could have been the e-break so i pulled up a little during driving. No help. I did a break job, replaced all the pads and turned the rotors and looked at everything. Looked fine. It most likely was due to the curb impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the time has come. I got my bearing from Irontoad and I'm starting to rip into it right now. Do I need to compress the rear spring before I unbolt it from the control arm? If I can get the axle carrier off, I should be in the clear as I have access to someone that can help me press it in. Any tips?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yup, I figured that one out. +rep. I got the axle carrier/hub/bearing assembly all off and I'm gonna press the old bearing out and new one in. It was a bitch to do so far. Luckily I had air tools. Anything I should be aware off when puting it back together? I'm thinking about getting new e-brake shoes while im messin around down there.
 

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I had it done a few months ago. Best price I could find was parkplace lexus:
Park Place Lexus Plano

You need a new wheel bearing, hub, and there's also a seal/gasket you'll need. The part needs to be pressed in, and since you want to make sure the work is done right go to a toyota dealership because then you get a 1 year warranty on parts/labor. I paid about 250 for labor and 190 for the parts, so yeah it's expensive. I asked to keep the original parts because I don't trust anybody nowadays, and sure enough there were metal shavings in the grease that surrounds the wheel bearing. Don't use off brand parts like they sell at autozone, go with genuine toyota. Also don't be cheap and reuse the original hub, because 9 times out of 10 you'll just end up with another failed bearing.
This should be false. Toyota does not warranty lexus parts/work. The only way to maintain that 1 year warranty is to have it installed by a lexus tech. Not toyota. They are the same but are NOT. It apparently doesnt work like that.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I try to avoid dealerships as much as possible. I went into lexus yesterday and they told me just for labor it would be $368 and I already have the bearing. I'm waiting for lee auto to press the bearing in now. for around $50 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well that was a pain in the ass! I just finished and the noise is no longer there :)

Bearing from Irontoad- about $70
Getting bearing pressed in and out- $41
Help from the neighbor with air tools- a couple cases of beer

Sure beats the $450 that lexus quoted me.
 

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Well that was a pain in the ass! I just finished and the noise is no longer there :)

Bearing from Irontoad- about $70
Getting bearing pressed in and out- $41
Help from the neighbor with air tools- a couple cases of beer

Sure beats the $450 that lexus quoted me.

Awesome! Glad to hear all is well.
 

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Which bearing did you use? I am about to attempt the replacement of the front driver's side bearing. I have all the tools I would like to confirm a Timken 513150 will fit in an IS300 (2001). This will be my 3rd bearing the first 2 were done by the dealer. The first lasted about 6 months. the second just over a year. I want to do it correctly so I don't have to replace it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I used an OEM Koyo bearing. I bought it from Irontoad for about 70 bucks. Did you get the hub replaced both times? That could be the reason they keep failing.
 
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