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Discussion Starter #1
What type/brand of Oil will you use for your first oil change?
I buy my own oil and have the Lexus Mechanic use that. I use Catrol Syntec (synethetic oil) 5W/30 in my GS400.
Eric.....
 

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If any of you are going to be driving hard with your babies, I would strongly recommend a heavier grade of oil. The primary reason why they suggested to use 5W-30 is to maximize the fuel effiency of the vehicles, but as far as protection is concerned, they're not enough.
 

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what do you recommend for me?
i drive pretty aggressive, i don't pass and overtake or weave through traffic too much, but i do like going fast, taking turns at higher than recommended speeds, but i don't overrev or race, im usually one of the cars who break away from stop lights, im still breaking my IS in but i have gone a lil over the suggested 4k rpm- only briefly, and had to brake pretty hard unavoidably a few times (no squeals though) -typical 17 year old? what oil should i bring to the lexus dealer when oil change time comes? anything i should know to ask at the 1000 mile/1 month check up? thanks
 

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When they say 1000 miles is considered broken-in, I would generally take it easy for at least a few k more..... You will notice that the car will still be performing better and better even though after their suggested 1000 miles, because it's actually still breaking-in..... (personal preference though)


Especially when you're in California (warm weather), when you car is completely broken-in, I would suggest:

Castrol Syntec
At least 10W30. But remember, the thicker the oil, the harder the circulation inside the engine, and gas mileage does drop.

Since I assume you're an occassional racer, 10W30 oughta be enough. Do NOT put 15W-50 in your engine....Too thick of an oil, may cause pre-mature wear on crankshaft bearings and hydraulic valves failure......just to name a few.

You should be able to feel the difference. If you think high-revving the engine sounds a little loud (coarse), and feels 'uncushioned', then you should use a thicker grade.

Personally, I think Syntec outperforms all other leading synthetic oils available in the US....

Mobil1 actually made my car run much hotter....felt too much friction in the engine. Tried it three times on separate occassions, and they all came out to be the same conclusion!! Pennzoil syn. was the worst in forming bubbles, lubrication properties was therefore compromised.

Hope this helps with my 2 cents.....

[This message has been edited by dude (edited July 11, 2000).]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well Lexus recommends that I use 5W-30 engine oil for my GS400. The heavier oils make the engine more difficult to start (especially in cooler weather). European engines (Audi and BMW) normally use the heavier oils 10W-30 (BMW) and the local Audi dealership uses 15W-50. There is an incription on my engine oil cap that reads that the engine requires 5W-30, so that's what I'll use and that's what I'll always use. (Castrol Syntec) I'd recommend the same for your IS300s.
Eric....
 

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After an interesting, technical conversation this morning in the waiting room at the Lexus dealer with a former Mobil employee, I am convinced to start using synthetic oil. Mobil 1 would be an easy choice. But what is Castrol Syntec? The castrol.com site does not list Syntec for consumers. Is it now called Formula SLX? Thanks
 

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Dude,

Please enlighten me on your choice of 10w-30 for aggressive drivers. If I'm not mistaken the only diff between 5w-30 and 10w-30 is that at colder temps the 5w is thinner than the 10w.

But at higher temps (typical aggressive high-rev driving) BOTH oils become as thick as a 30w oil. So why choose the 10w-30?

Maybe I'm mistaken, so please explain.

Thanks.
 

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Dont use synethetic oil till after the break-in period. Im waiting it about 2000k, then Im going to start puting in Mobil 1 5w 30 synethetic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tgallon,
That's a good idea to wait before adding the synthetic oil. I waited some time before using it in my GS400. However, I would suggest using Castrol Syntec over the Mobile 1. I've heard that Syntec is better and it's what I use. The performance of my vehicle has actually increased from using conventional oils, so I'm satisfied.
Eric....
 

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Originally posted by MCD:
Dude,

Please enlighten me on your choice of 10w-30 for aggressive drivers. If I'm not mistaken the only diff between 5w-30 and 10w-30 is that at colder temps the 5w is thinner than the 10w.

But at higher temps (typical aggressive high-rev driving) BOTH oils become as thick as a 30w oil. So why choose the 10w-30?

Maybe I'm mistaken, so please explain.

Thanks.

You're very correct (technically) that supposedly both oils become the same weight.

That's what I thought too UNTIL I tried them out myself AND found out that they're actually not (whether synthetic or dinosaur-based, although synthetic holds up much better)! The 30 in the 5W actually felt thinner as oppose to the 30 in the 10W (when the oils are at optimum operating temperature.) Even at high RPM, the 10W-30 felt like it's cushioning the engine more than 5W-30. I'm not sure how that's possible, but my dad actually felt the exact same thing on his car too (We both like to try everything and then evaluate them....)

I know that don't concur with the numbers....
BUT I trust my own senses very much (especially when my dad came to the same conclusions.)

Strictly personal opinion.....
 

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Would any one mind if I posted a proffessional opinion?
Its been a few years now, but I was a certified lube shop manager and spent thousands of hours around all types of oil and have my own experience from minor league racing as well.
I am an extremely agressive driver, and have nothing but great experience with Castrol Syntech 5-50 and Mobile-1 5-50 (In two different cars).
For a hard working higher reving I-6, 50 weight is the very best. The 5 side of things gets the oil where it needs to be fast at start up. As for break in period... in an ideal situation, change your oil after just a few hundred miles, and then again a few hundred later. They tend to be really good these days about being clean with the assembly... but just remember, all those moving parts in there are MASS produced and just now getting to know each other... which means there will be stuff you don't want recirculating through your wonderful new motor. If you do change more frequently as I recomend... the oil will appear cleaner than it really is, especially since you have never changed oil after only 300 miles. Just be happy, and feel good about yourself. They do make oil just for break in... I would talk to your local engine builders for what they recomend. Don't bounce from oil to oil either... stay with the same exact brand through break-in... and after 3-5k miles... go with the synthetic of your choice and NEVER switch! I can really bore you with the scientific reason why... but just trust me. You will be glad you did!


------------------
Speed... gotta have
speed!
 

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For EXTREME aggressive driving, 5W-50 IS the excellent choice. But I do find that the 50 weight is too thick for 'occassional' aggressive driving....I do feel the 'thicknesss' of the oil, and it hinders the performance of the engine (not as happy revving.)

MPG also goes down quite a bit, because it takes more power to get the engine going.....

[This message has been edited by dude (edited July 13, 2000).]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have also noticed that heavier weight oil reduces the peformance of the engine. Is it true that heavy weight oil 20W-50 is recommended for turbo charged vehicles? Are light weight oils bad for turbos?
Eric.....
 

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Umm, are't the numbers like 10W-30 mean how much low/high temperature it can stand? I use 5W-30 during the winter time and 15W-40 or something around that league during the summer time. Agip is my brand, although I have BP Verbis Plus in my Altezza right now.
 

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The numbers: 5W-30:

5 is the weight of oil when cold, 30 is the weight of oil when at normal operating temperature.

If you look at it physically, the same oil will appear thicker when at ambient temperature and much thinner when hot....Again, I'm not sure the theory behind it, but I think it has to do with the expansion and contraction theory.

The thinner weight is needed when cold for the ease of the circulation of oil in the engine (crankshaft bearings especially) Too thick of an oil retsricts the flow, and in many cases, more wear and tear to the parts. Although not apparent at first, the engine will suffer in the long run (pre-mature wear of parts)

The thicker the oil in the engine, the more oil pressure.... Even when fully warmed up, you're actually running the engine with a very high oil pressure.....It's more prone to having engine breakdowns.

With turbos, the tubine actually spins at a very high RPM.....(that's why the 'weeeeeee' sound.) The turbo actually needs the oil to lubricate it, and for better protection, a thicker oil is recommended. I remembered back a number of years ago, I was using a brand called Kendall.....They had a 10W-30 and a 10W-30 Turbo--the latter is actually MUCH thicker.....

[This message has been edited by dude (edited July 13, 2000).]
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info Dude,
I know that engine oil circulate through the turbochargers. When I had a my Nissan 300ZX twin turbo a few years back I used to wait a couple min before shutting it down (to cool/preserve the turbos). I was wondering whether oil circulates through superchargers and whether they need cooled as well...?
Eric....
 

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I had a short training with TRD a few years back, and this is what I still remember:

Actually, the oil is thinner at higher temperature because the different molecules in it break the tie among each other. When the oil cools down, they tie themselves together again. This process goes on and on every time we start the engine. That's why we have to change the oil after a certain amount of time, because the some or all of the molecule chain are broken (that are not supposed to break) and do not lube the moving parts anymore.

For oil usage, I recommend using whatever grade the owner's manual suggests. Lexus/Toyota engineers have done their extensive research to determine what grade of oil is the best for the car. Using an unnecessarily thicker oil will force your car to run hotter and reduce the engine performance.

Do not change oil brand every time you change it. The chemical structure in different type of oil is different and mostly are not compatible to each other. (We can never drain the old oil completely, unless we open the engine and clean the parts one by one). This causes the new oil to break sooner than it should.

I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic for 6 years now for all my cars, and by far I like it the best.

I hope I offended nobody here.
 
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