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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It doesnt happen all the time, but its gotten worse lately, sounds horrrrrible while driving, I'm down to just driving back n forth to work, but I know its going to be costly :-(
But can someone please explain to me what happen? none of the other ones are like it....

heres a picture of the good one:



and here's what the bad one looks like:

 

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Dude, why would you even drive on that? Now instead of spending a few bucks on new pads you will have to replace the rotors too :pissed:

I did the rear ones on mine last week and it took longer to jack up the car and remove the wheel than to replace the pads.
 
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Your rear pads are shot. Your rear rotor needs to be changed as well since it has had metal on metal contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
for my defense, my girlfriend drove the car for 3 days before she told me about this, we switch every couple days between the is300 and the gsxr600..

sigh.. new rotors.. damn.

ah, just noticed I had the picture titles backwards. will fix.


Do you recommend me changing just this one? both on the back? or all 4?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just some opinions are greatly appreciated, I rather learn from the guru's than deal with future problems..

Which ones would you guys recommend from these 2 sites? The first one are plain'o rotors:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

and the second link leads to a pair of BREMBO SPORT SI slotted and drilled for $310:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

.. I'm not going to do much to my car performance wise, but I do have a heavy foot and therefore need good brakes...
 

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I think stock ones would be fine unless you WANT to upgrade, these brakes are pretty good for stock.

Are the front ones metal on metal too, or is it just the rear one?
 

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Just a quick word of advice on the rotors. I have DBA slotted rotors with Hawk pads. I did manage to upgrade the "stock" stopping power a little (love the Hawk pads), but after putting on the PIAA Super Rozza's, my car honks like a goose when it stops. The PIAA's amplify the brake sounds significantly, and you don't even want to be around when they howl out of the car wash.

Just letting you know - be prepared if you go slotted/dimpled, etc..things will change :)
 

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Stock is best, I wish I went with a stock rear rotor.

I would do them all at once, it will be a lot out of pocket, but if one pad is gone, the other probably is not far behind. At least do the rear and have them check the thickness of the pads in the front.
 

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I think you might get away with doing the rears only, I'd save the cash and see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok, so I did some research...


for the whole package:

Brembo front & rear drilled rotors: $508 (all 4)
Stainless steel lines: $141 (all 4)

TOTAL: $648


to replace just the one bad one: $100



God.. If only life was so simple...
 

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My rear pad started scraping last week without any warning. Tell you the truth it looked a bit like yours, maybe not as deep. I got new pads and so far so good, given my rotor was not that damaged. Most of the time you can get away with it since the rear ones don't do as much work as the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So just to update, I called advanced auto parts, and they said its
$50 for the rear set....


Does anyone else find that... lol just wrong?


..I shouldnt do that... right?
 

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i just quoted rear ones as well and they were $25 dollars a piece. i thought it was going to be a lot expensive then that.
 

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those prices are for bobos... i would go OEM like Al stated which is better anyways because you can have the rotors cut for future brake jobs as well
 

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uhh... stock rotors are stock rotors. they all do the same purpose. im just trying to help the guy out. not trying to start anything but can you explain to me what the difference is from a OEM rotor to a lets say a rotor from an auto store??
 

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From my experiences with replacing rotors, I have found that there is no difference between OEM rotors and aftermarket replacement rotors from an autoparts store or even ones I have ordered off of ebay. Now, personally, I would stick with OEM pads or aftermarket pads with a similar compound to OEM to keep things consistent. I think my IS300 stops very well with the OEM brake setup so why change it.
 
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