Way To Improve Performance W/O Too Much $$$??
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Intake / Headers / Exhaust
That's probably a $1500 combination, at least. One thing to watch out for is that you'll typically see a decent increase in horsepower on the high-end, but not very much (and sometimes a decrease) in low-end torque.
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Tony
'01 Spectra Blue
'94 Turbo Miata
That's probably a $1500 combination, at least. One thing to watch out for is that you'll typically see a decent increase in horsepower on the high-end, but not very much (and sometimes a decrease) in low-end torque.
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Tony
'01 Spectra Blue
'94 Turbo Miata
tony's right about the low-end torque decrease: depending on the design of the system, the low end could suffer a *marginal* amount. but given that mid-range and high-end will breathe easier, i think performance times would realize a gain, not a detriment.
Here's the order I'd recommend for mods...and it's the order that I'm trying to follow:
1. Driving school
2. Z-rated Tires
3. 4 or 5-pt harness- if you're going to be doing any racing that's not in a straight line
4. Racing seats
5. Sway bar
6. Suspension mods
Then, optionally, if you don't mind blowing your drivetrain warranty:
7. Chip
8. I/H/E
Then, if you don't mind significantly reducing the lifespan of your engine.
9. Turbocharger/supercharger (Personally, I wouldn't do this mod. If I had really wanted a turbocharger, I'd have bought a turbocharged car.)
Note that 3 of the first 4 mods are focused on the driver...not the car. A driver must be comfortable, confident, and skilled to go fast and to go fast safely.
1. Driving school
2. Z-rated Tires
3. 4 or 5-pt harness- if you're going to be doing any racing that's not in a straight line
4. Racing seats
5. Sway bar
6. Suspension mods
Then, optionally, if you don't mind blowing your drivetrain warranty:
7. Chip
8. I/H/E
Then, if you don't mind significantly reducing the lifespan of your engine.
9. Turbocharger/supercharger (Personally, I wouldn't do this mod. If I had really wanted a turbocharger, I'd have bought a turbocharged car.)
Note that 3 of the first 4 mods are focused on the driver...not the car. A driver must be comfortable, confident, and skilled to go fast and to go fast safely.
911- You could also try and find headers that were geared twoards making torque down low instead of power up high, it all depends on design. since the IS is new, i doubt there will be much of a selection, but headers do not ALWAYS hurt lowend, then can help if designed to do so.
Yep, I/H/E will require at least $1500. The next step will be: the suspension work.
If you still have some money left, go get the Apex'i S-AFC and ITC, and take your car for a dyno test and adjust your car fuel and timing mapping by using both the the S-AFC and the ITC.
Just my $0.02
If you still have some money left, go get the Apex'i S-AFC and ITC, and take your car for a dyno test and adjust your car fuel and timing mapping by using both the the S-AFC and the ITC.
Just my $0.02
Engine/exhaust mods are sexy, but I'd strongly advise working on the driver first, handling second, and the power last. This is basically what Steve Dinan (the King of American BMW mods) himself recommends. Become better than the car; don't let the car get way ahead of you. You'll be all the faster and safer for it.
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
It's a sound philosophy. Those who don't follow it often end up looking like idiots and posers. There's nothing funnier than a super-tuned M Coupe crawling around a track and being passed by 323s and 318s because the driver of the M Coupe has much more car than he ever learned how to handle.
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
The distinction between power and handling is the difference between American (Corvette & Mustang) and German (BMW & Porsche) performance cars. American cars have muscle for 0-60. German cars have "muscle" for the corners. It's also the difference between "street" race cars and "real" race cars.
If all you're interested in is street racing...racing from one stoplight to the next...fine, go with the power. On the other hand, if you're interested in meaningful (IMHO, of course) racing, i.e., road racing, autocrossing, rallying (Euro-style), etc., go with the handling.
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
If all you're interested in is street racing...racing from one stoplight to the next...fine, go with the power. On the other hand, if you're interested in meaningful (IMHO, of course) racing, i.e., road racing, autocrossing, rallying (Euro-style), etc., go with the handling.
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
Here are my top 10 "performance" mods for those who don't care about performance.
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10. "Type R" sticker - $1 for at least 30 hp
9. M5 badge - $50 for an additional 180hp
8. Racing stripes - $30 for "Viper-like" snap oversteer
7. Bright pink mud flaps - $150 for that extra edge in mudracing (the bright pink is to help AAA identify your car when they come to dig you out)
6. A CD of jet engine sounds and a loud stereo - $15 for CD + $1500 for stereo - after all, "sounding" fast is half the battle
5. Clears - $125 - your competition will be so intent on ogling your cool taillights they'll slow down and get behind you
4. Cut springs - free if your hillbilly cousin is handy with an ax - to lower your center of gravity and to let the bottom of your car repave the road for your next, much faster run!
3. 60 degrees of negative camber - free - you've already paid for the sidewalls on your tires...use them!
2. 40 fog lights - $2000 - if you can't outrun your competition, you can always BLIND them
1. A really low seating position (your eyes just above the dash, if not below) with your arms fully extended and barely reaching the steering wheel - free - for that "F1" look...of course, if you ever have to avoid an accident, or to make a turn for that matter, you'll be needing the breakaway chassis and rollbars the F1 cars have
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
10. "Type R" sticker - $1 for at least 30 hp
9. M5 badge - $50 for an additional 180hp
8. Racing stripes - $30 for "Viper-like" snap oversteer
7. Bright pink mud flaps - $150 for that extra edge in mudracing (the bright pink is to help AAA identify your car when they come to dig you out)
6. A CD of jet engine sounds and a loud stereo - $15 for CD + $1500 for stereo - after all, "sounding" fast is half the battle
5. Clears - $125 - your competition will be so intent on ogling your cool taillights they'll slow down and get behind you
4. Cut springs - free if your hillbilly cousin is handy with an ax - to lower your center of gravity and to let the bottom of your car repave the road for your next, much faster run!
3. 60 degrees of negative camber - free - you've already paid for the sidewalls on your tires...use them!
2. 40 fog lights - $2000 - if you can't outrun your competition, you can always BLIND them
1. A really low seating position (your eyes just above the dash, if not below) with your arms fully extended and barely reaching the steering wheel - free - for that "F1" look...of course, if you ever have to avoid an accident, or to make a turn for that matter, you'll be needing the breakaway chassis and rollbars the F1 cars have
[This message has been edited by Young (edited November 16, 2000).]
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