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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay I know that doublins and a few others have posted info after their W58 tranny swap, but I thought I would add further information for those considering it. I had never done ANY major engine work before this and I have to give a shout out to everyone that helped or posted information about the install...so doublins, trekster, Lexotic, GTE, I know I missed a couple but thanks for the valuable information.

Background
First off, my car's 2nd gear of the transmission went out. I haven't yet opened up the old transmission to look at it, but will soon and I will add more about what looks like happened. Basically though, I was pulling from a side road to a main road and when I shifted into 2nd (not even that aggressive of a shift) I heard a popped. After that my transmission made a clunking noise when the tranny shaft was rotating.

The Decision
I took it to the dealer and they said I had to replace the tranny and the clutch. My car had 84,000 miles (4,000 over the drivetrain warranty, no love from the dealer either on fudging the miles). They quoted me about $3,000 (and that didn't include a flywheel replacement)! I said forget that and decided to go the route of putting in a W58 myself, mostly because the cost of the replacement for a used one was the same as a W55 and obviously I didn't have any luck with the W55. Also I plan on doing some more moderate N/A performance upgrades and know the W58 is stronger (it doesn't have a weak 3rd gear like the W55 does). Also if I ever wanted to go with a stage 1 boost kit I wouldn't worry about the W58 either where as I would a W55. I found a used W58 at a junkyard from a '92 SC300 with 83,000 miles for $480. Not too bad but not as good a deal as doublins...oh well. (Note: the tranny from a N/A Supra SE 89-98 will work or a 92-97 SC300.)

Also from reading around I decided to go with a UR lightweight flywheel and aftermarket Centerforce Dual Friction clutch & pressure plate. Even though my clutch wasn't bad yet and never once slipped, I heard that since I was doing the tranny swap might as well do the clutch too. I decided not to keep the stock clutch setup because mainly I have heard a lot of people burning out their clutch early. Also my flywheel turned out to be okay, but I did know that if I ever had to replace the flywheel the price to replace the stock flywheel is $1000 from Lexus (not recommended to resurface the OEM flywheel either, although a couple people have 1 time). I couldn't find any aftermarket dual-mass (sprung) flywheels that I could install for the OEM IS flywheel to go with the non-sprung OEM clutch. Because of this I was left to get an aftermarket clutch. I went with the Centerforce because I like the centrifugal aspect of it design and the dual friction. I heard mixed reviews of the Centerforce clutches, but I guess I will have to add an update once I have some miles on it.

The Part Collection
I started to collect the parts which took about a total of 4 days ( I took holidays from work). Below is everything you need for the swap:
- W58 used tranny: $480
- Unorthodox Lightweight Flywheel (used from .netter, thanks Henson): $250
- Replacement Unorthodox Racing Heat Shield Insert: $130
- Centerforce DF Clutch kit: $384
- OEM Throwout Bearing (for a 92-97 SC300 or 89-98 N/A Supra. I don't know if the throwout bearing for an IS300 would work since you would be using the input shaft sleeve from the W58, I didn't check to see if the diameter is different between the two): $89
- OEM Pressure Plate bolts: $1x6 = $6
- Redline MT-90 GL-4 Tranny Fluid: $9x3 = $27
- Liquid Gasket Sealer: $9
- Red LockTite: $12
- White Lithium Grease: $4
- DOT4+ Brake Fluid: $9
- Service Manual (in PDF format from .netter)= free....thanks a bunch agent009! Also feel free to email me if anyone needs this [email protected]. This should be hosted somewhere and added as a sticky in the forum!
- Total for parts: $1,400.00

* The service manual recommends getting new flywheel bolts but they are $10 a piece and there are 8 of them. I just reused the stock ones but made sure to use LockTite per recommended by other .Netters.
** Also I wish I would have gotten new exhaust gaskets, but I didn't oh well...there isn't an exhaust leak but they did look bad.

Equipment, Setup & Timing
This was crazy! First off don't even ATTEMPT this install without access to a garage with a lift & a tranny jack (2 is really helpful!). Luckily a buddy of mine works at an air force base that is close and I could get access to the base garage. They had everything I needed which was great! Also a buddy of mine helped me out who went to Wytech automotive school, so that was a critical piece of the install. My thanks go out to him for sure! This is definitely a 2 person install, mostly when installing & removing the tranny. Below are the parts that you will need in addition to the typical set of tools, to name a few:
- Hydraulic Lift
- Tranny Jack (2 is helpful)
- Toyota Clutch Alignment Tool
- Heated O2 Sensor Socket
- Flywheel tool would be helpful (though we didn't have one and just used an air gun with Locktite)
- Drill Press (to get the heat shield inserts out of the used UR flywheel)
- Airgun with U-joint and many extensions, ~4 (this was critical to remove the tranny bolts on the top of the transmission because there is hardly any room even for the extension)
- Pry bar (to get the transmission off the engine)
- Rubber Mallet
- Full Metric ratchet set
- Allen-wrench set

Tranny Setup
You will need to take the front bell housing off the stock W55 tranny and put on the W58 tranny. We also reused the slave cylinder from the W55, the trail housing from the W55 (most likely could use the W58 tail housing), the shift select & position lever from the W55 (as it is called in the service manual, but others call it the shift linkage), and the control shift lever retainer from the W55. The reason you have to use the W55 shift linkage is that it is longer to account for the control shift lever retainer for the IS. If you use the W58 shift linkage you won't be able to put it into 2,4 or R gears and you would have to adjust the shift forks like Lexotic did. Although the shift linkage key (piece that goes into the shift fork ends) is different on the W55 then the W58, it will still work although this probably adds to the notchy feel, more below. Also if you use the W55 extension housing you have to take the speed sensor from the W58 tailhousing off and replace on the W55. The W55 speed sensor isn't long enough to work with the W58. Also I just discovered that you can't use the W55 backup sensor with the W58. Probably the same thing as with the speed sensor, not long enough.

Flywheel Prep
It was a pain to get the bolts out of the flywheel to replace the heat shield insert. I called Unorthodox and they said I needed to drill out the bolts because the expansion of the bolts caused by the heat would make them nearly impossible to get out. So a tip is make sure to use a drill bit almost the size of the head of the bolt and just drill them off.

Installations
All together my car was up on the racks for 18 hours. Yes that is right....but we did things right and made sure everything worked before putting it all back on the car; i.e., the tranny shifted to all gears with the shifter, etc. It took 2 days since the garage closed at 4:30. We followed the service manuals mostly each step so I am not going to get into each step but I will comment on a couple things that were different.

First, you don't have to disconnect the radiator hose...we don't know why the service manual says to do this...crazy! Second, you do not have to remove the heated O2 sensors from the Exhaust Manifold, you can just disconnect all the wire clips (we did remove the one from the exhaust pipe, but you could get away without if you had a work bench that you could set the exhaust pipe up against so it wasn't hanging on the O2 sensor wires. Although that would have sucked and gotten in the way). Thirdly, you have to take off the front sway bar in order to remove the exhaust manifolds from the bottom. Next, is the difficult part...taking out the transmission! What a [email protected]! It helps if you jack up the front of the engine so it angles down in the back slightly. We had to use 4 extension bars linked together and an air gun to get the top 3 bolts off...that sucked. Then when you go to actually take the tranny out you have to get it to the point where the input shaft splines are almost cleared of the pressure plate, then you will need to take a pry bar and just crank away on it to get it out....it is a royal pain but just keep cranking with the pry bar and it will eventually pop-off.

The next thing I wanted to mention was when you put the tranny back on....you have to remember to jack the front of the engine up. Then put the tranny on the tranny jack and get it just to the point the tranny is about to hit the firewall. You will need to ease the tranny into place but need to manhandle the engine. We only did it by having someone hang with all their weight on the back of the engine and then the other one jack up the tranny and push it into place. The key is just to get the input shaft splines into the flywheel tunnel...then you are golden. It is a pain...just keep messing with it to get it. We kept the tranny fairly level with maybe a slight angle back. It took us about 30-45 minutes to get this. You also don't have a prayer at torquing the top tranny bolts correctly so just zap them with an air gun. Then everything else goes back on as it came off and you are done. I went ahead and did the CDD removal while I had it on the lift and man it took a TON of pumping the clutch to get all the air out, but it did eventually get better.

Initial Reactions
MAN I LOVE THIS SETUP!!!! This car is even MORE fun to drive now...and I haven't even broken in the clutch yet! I can't wait. This is how the car should have come stock...or at least the LTuned models since those people would be more into performance then the "Lexus Feel" anyways. The lightweight flywheel rocks and spins up so much faster. I was nervous about doing the flywheel because of people talking about it being hard to drive in first...but let me say with the Centerforce clutch kit this setup is even EASIER to drive in first!!!! My shifts are so much smoother. I feel like I know exactly when and how the clutch is going to engage each time! When I took my girlfriend for a test drive when it was done she only said it sounds like normal, but your shifts were much smoother! The longer first gear rocks! I now have a USABLE first gear! Also the feel of the clutch pedal....oh man....it is so light, much lighter then stock! Feels almost like my buddy's wrangler clutch pedal. And there isn't air in the line either! The only thing that didn't get improved is the shift gear box notchiness. It is still as notchy if not slightly more notchy then how it was with the stock tranny and the B&M shifter. I wish I would have put white lithium grease on the shift linkage key and the end of the shift forks so that maybe the shifter would be a little smoother. Also I thought my speedo was off but after finding a police stationary radar station (the ones that tell you your speed) my speedo is now exactly on! The difference in the setup actually removed the initial overstatement that the speedo had from the factory...extra plus :)

So the overall cost was:
Parts: $1,400
Paid my buddy & beer: $150
Shop bay use: $47
Total Install Cost: $1,597
Dealer quote (w/ flywheel): $4,000
Total Savings $2,403

Plus I learned a TON about my car, had fun doing it and my car feels better and will last longer then stock. Also when, if I ever need to replace my flywheel again it will cost me only $130 for a new heat shield insert :)

I HIGHLY recommend this install if anyone needs to replace their tranny. Heck even if you need to replace just the flywheel and clutch this install is cheaper then doing the flywheel and clutch from the dealer!

Check out the pix link below for pictures.....
 

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Am I Hype-R???
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awesome info!!!
 

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Dual Citizen
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ditto man.. good for u bro, im glad ur enjoying it.. +++RREEEPPSS!!+++
 

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I agree with you...Pulling the tranny is a b*tch, and you do learn a lot...Good info...
 

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Virgin Magnet
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is teh speedo off on the high side or the low side?

good work man - glad you are back in action :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
azzurro said:
Awesome. Thanks so much for this write-up. I know that it will help a lot of us! Definitely worth a +rep... everyone hit him up! ;)

So did you end up using the B&M shifter?
Yeah you can reuse the B&M shifter because I used the same W55 Shift Lever Retainer Extension which has the ring you sit the shifter in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks man...glad to be back in action. Not driving her for a week was killing me! The speedo is off on the low side. doublins calculated it at about 11.5%. I haven't tested mine yet though. It is funny because Monday morning I was going to work and there were a bunch of slow a$$ in the fast lane...then later on I remembered my speedo was off, oops :)

I am probably going to get the yellowbox, that is another $110 + shipping. Although it could be a good excuse to officers....officer, I swear I was going the limit..I even had my cruise set, look see for yourself...wonder if that will work :suspiciou

somguy2u said:
is teh speedo off on the high side or the low side?

good work man - glad you are back in action :)
 

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Good job Pat. Have fun. Take care bro
 

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The speedo will also be off in other gears too, 4th it'll be ok but the other gears will be off.
 

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pmergler said:
Thanks man...glad to be back in action. Not driving her for a week was killing me! The speedo is off on the low side. doublins calculated it at about 11.5%. I haven't tested mine yet though. It is funny because Monday morning I was going to work and there were a bunch of slow a$$ in the fast lane...then later on I remembered my speedo was off, oops :)

I am probably going to get the yellowbox, that is another $110 + shipping. Although it could be a good excuse to officers....officer, I swear I was going the limit..I even had my cruise set, look see for yourself...wonder if that will work :suspiciou
Might pm u when I am going to do this
 

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kponti said:
With the yellow box (or speedo gear) you should be golden.
I was unaware that it would fix diff gearing problems with the speedo, any link to this yellow box?
 

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IceCold4x4 said:
I was unaware that it would fix diff gearing problems with the speedo, any link to this yellow box?
Actually I saw it at the some other Lexus forum. I will find it and link it here later. First I have heard it being called a 'yellow box'. But there is a speedo gearing box that replaces the stock unit and will recalibrate the stock rpm (hence speedometer)
 

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^ i just thought that was for changing rear ends and not gear boxes
 

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^yeah thats what I thought, but if you think about it, its just some numerical values that can be altered. So whether you do it for the rear gears or for the trans gears, wont make a difference. Now the individual gears are different so this yellow box must contain the correction values (gears) for each gear except 4th.
 

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^ makes perfect sense lol, i need to start drinking at work. lol i think, i think alot better under the influence.
 

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get a NA supra fllywheel from fidanza for cheap its strong and weighs half of stock
 
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