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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Progress has slowed down... new job, new house, new headaches...

Why?! Because I cant have a Supra, a baby, and 2 100lb dogs....

-I would NEVER have bought this car if it did not have 2JZ power plant... I needed something to dump all my extra GTE parts into...

-The wagon looks cool as shit anyhow (Better that Subie wagon and Mazda wagon)... guess what... the SEDANS LOOK LIKE CIVICS!!!


Tommorow I will have more neat pics to upload....

Cliff Notes of what I am doing....

98'+ VVT-i 2JZ-GTE Head swap onto a 2002 2JZ-GE block....

I am converting it using:

-GTE pistons
-GTE Water pump
-GTE Water lines
-GTE oil cooler/hoses/fittings

My cars "Mod" list

Electronics:

Emanage Ultimate
LC-1 O2
Autometer gauges (oil, boost, fuel, EGt)

Engine:
Aristo 98+ VVT-i head swap
GTE pistons (New rings and bearings)
Crank and rods set to machinge shop, polished/checked= all true, ready to run!
Full gasket/rebuild kit for GTE
AEM Dry flow filter
3" v-band Downpipe
Custom 3" v-band 304SS exhaust
Tubular manifold with $300 "JET HOT 2000" coating!!!!!
Walboro 255lph
680cc injectors/440cc injectors
3" Alum. intercooler piping
3" intercooler BIG 31" FMIC
Tial "Style" 50mm BOV
ARP Head Studs


Steering/handling:
MK3 Torsen Diff (LOVE IT!)
KYB GR-2's
Valve Body Upgrade



DO NOT BUY FROM:

Turbochargers. com
-Slow email response, VERY slow shipping (Over a week)
-Now ignoring my emails about my "gay" white filter I dont want.

Goodridgebrakes (ebay store)
-3 weeks and no shippment of items





Empty Engine Compartment


Trunk full of NA "Junk" the engine set and trans arent even in there!


My sweet all alum. 3" piping with BIG FMIC!


AEM "Dry flow" 4" filter (GAY I WANTED GRAY!!!!) and 60-1 turbo!!!!!! "Master Power" is not to be confused with "XS power." It has been alleged that "XS POWER" gets there turbos from Master power.... the ones that are rejected by them (fail balance test... whatever) 1 year 12,000 mile warranty I believe mine has.



Shimming the GTE head (Jerk mixed all the shims up :( )
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Bare Block... stripped of just about everything


My nice clean Head (Alot cleaner than Pauls, lol!)



GTE pistons loaded


ARP Head studs installed and holding my lil' beastie together


NA vs. TT oil cooler... I opted to upgrade to a cooler along with the GTE water pump... otherwise un-fun/un-clean modding of the stock NA waterlines to accomodate the GTE waterpump would be neccessary. THe little threaded "Nipple" threads right into the block. Its a direct replacement... no modding.


My balls expensive header with its $300 Jet hot 2000 coating... 60-1 mocked into position








 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
April 19th pictures:


Manifold pics, upclose before install:





Special not about this ebay manifold, this stud cannot be used... trimmed down, replaced by a bolt.. nothing. The header tube is way to close to the stud. I had to cut half of the stud down just so the manifold would fit on the head but alas it didnt matter because I couldnt get any nuts to fit on it... I even bench ground down the thing like crazy... oh well. It should be fine. If i remember correctly my supra had 1-2 that would not fit and had to go without... put 20k on it no exhaust leaks.


Flange drilled, studs tapped, voila I have an oil drain.


Engine just prior to trans mount up. Please not how close that 50mm wastegate is to the block... VERY CLOSE, but it clears, the dumptube actually *would* have barely fit, just barely clearing the (like 1-2mm) underbody brace, but I chose to cut an 1.5" off of it.





Tranny mounted, ready to install!!!


Oh yes! Vrooom pSSSHH!!! This is what I have been waiting for, my ghetto daddy supra is almost ready!!!!!!!! Header was wrapped up to protect it from accidental scrathing






A NEW AND FUN CHALLENGE!!!! See if you can tell whats wrong with this picture?! Thats right, the damned brake lines are WAY too close for comfort... I am planning on relocating the block as others have done... up by the battery. I dont thing bending the lines out of the way would even work. DANGER TO ALL THOSE THINKING TO USE LARGE FRAME TURBOS!!!! This is NOT a supra and the engine compartment seems to be made for a 4yl.... very tight. Too much bigger than what I have and I fear it might rattle against the frame/body.





Please note: Single turbo in the IS300 (at least for GTE swap) the water lines (heater core) *Should not* be an issue routing. The lines the the stock twin turbos (water lines x 2 and the water neck nipples x 2) have been welded and the neck tapped and plugged. I have seen several swaps using large intake manifold nipples to cap off these lines. They eventually leak (I know it happend to me TWICE) and it wasnt fun on the supra and would be HELL on the IS300 to reach. I will most likley trim the heater core pipes coming from the firewall....




And finally the Sportcross is back at my personal shop, ready for evening-midnight work :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Wiring is not all that difficult. Strip the harness to help re-locate a couple connters.

******************Plug in injectors first, work harness AROUND the injectors*************

* Re-place the main portion of the wiring loom so it fits the GTE intake
* Water temp sensor connector needs to be lengthed a few inches, (Use the GE one, I am uncertain if the GTE one is the same BUT I do know that the connector is wrong. If you shave the ears off it, it will fit... but why?!)
*The 3 sensors on the throttle body need a little work. TPS shortened, and the other 2 re-located slightly
*I also stripped the coil/ignition harness as it didnt seem to want to fit really well after my relocation of the main loom (too short) re-insulated= all better
*Plastic "protector" that covers the harness as it travels across the valve covers needs to be trimmed. It can be mostly retained, it just needs to be trimmed. DONT REMOVE IT!!! (Its shape does not conform to the GTE valve cover shape AND it actually touches the 1st injector AND makes it difficult to re-locate the wiring loom. TRIM ONLY!)

*I havent done it yet but it looks like I will be relocating the 02-A/F sensor harness


TOO SUM UP: Strip harness, stream line it where you can, make it look tidy, then re-insulate/shield it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Installing Intercooler pipes

Intercooler installed, bracketry fun to make, used stock horn location, will move horns later.


Installing Exhaust system
-3" straight thru exhaust, no resonator, muffler only (apexi style)
-All stainless steel
-v-band clamp flanges
-$300 ;labor (5.0hrs fabrication)








 

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You don't post for months, then you post 7 times in one thread? :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Updated with pictures:

Delay..... I couldnt finish the motor and get it in the car as expected today :(

-Issues with this and that...its a very time consuming process.


NOTE: This is not an "Easy" route and would not suggest it to anyone... I wish I could have sprung for the whole engine set... that was anywhere from $3500-$5000.... :(

-Everything is working out fine so far so other than the complexity of the swap... and time of it its been "ok."

Cost effective= Yes (My wife says otherwise)

Time effective= NO
 

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nice progress man! make sure to get some vids then.
 

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hell yeah, way to represent Ithaca,NY! IC class of 02!

:approve:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yes the gay blue tint is still there... I hate it I really do but am too lazy/busy to devote a day to removing it properly...


NOTE: With gentle convincing I have managed to move/modify the angle to the lower A/C line to accomodate the 31"x 3" thick intercooler. (See above)
-I'm confused why I have heard of others hacking up the stock reinforcement or angling it to fit :(

*Mine fits BEHIND the crash bar and RETAINS the A/C*

****edit*** I still ended up hacking it up anyhow to give me more room


Next up: Convincing the brake lines to move out of the way of the turbo.


Sorry no pics this time!
 

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any updates?
 
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