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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I'm new to this site, but if anyone has any ideas to what my problem may be let me know:

I own a 2001 IS300 with 70,000 miles, Right now when I park the car after driving it and let it sit for about 45 minutes to 4 hours, the car has a hard time starting. It cranks for about 5 seconds then fires up. No check engine light, no other problems. If I start the car up before letting it si for 45 minutes, it start up just fine. If i let it sit for a while 6+ hours, it starts fine. I have had the timming belt changed recently, removed my injectors and send them out for spray and flow check, and cleanning. I have also change he engine coolant temp sensor. I have also noticed that when driving around town, with the starting problem, I get about 220 miles per tank. If I drive it on the hiwghway nonstop I get 400 miles per tank. I think I have a fuel problem. I have had the fuel pressure checked, and have done a smoke check. No problems there either.

Other than the starting problem the car work perfectly, except for the cd player.

Anybody have any solutions on the starting issue?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the ideas I will check the batteryvoltage and amps before starting. Im not sure how to check the drainage on the power system.

The fuel pump has been fine. I do let it prime sometimes. I wil try again.

post back soon.

Is there a place where I can keep this poste readily at hand for my access? This site is kind of a pain to navigate.
 

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thanks for the ideas I will check the batteryvoltage and amps before starting. Im not sure how to check the drainage on the power system.

The fuel pump has been fine. I do let it prime sometimes. I wil try again.

post back soon.

Is there a place where I can keep this poste readily at hand for my access? This site is kind of a pain to navigate.
bookmark
http://my.is/forums/f138/very-weird-problem-406778/
 

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Go to your User CP, Edit options ....
and select default thread subscription mode ...
then select instant Email...
That will help.

220 per tank is a bit low, I get 270 -280 in Dallas traffic, mainly surface streets light every 1/2 mile !!!
Check battery voltage everything off after its rested for 1/2 hr, should be 12.5 V up....

Mine is a bit slow to start sometimes too.

I will try letting mine prime and see if it makes any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have an automatic,

yeah 220 per tan is low. I thought my injectors might be leaking and slighly flooding the engine. But what makes me think not is that it does only in the certain amount of time. if it sits for 2 days its fine. I live in vermont where the wheather is cold, very cold, the gas mileage does go down a little in the winter. Not by that much. Plus we have no traffic, just a lot of animals to stop for.

thanks for the tip on the thread subscription. Very helpfull


I will hopefully check my attery voltage tommorrow.

Any Idea on what the amps are supposed to be for the car starting system?
 

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The starter motor takes a high current surge moving off from rest, then once its turning drops to a steady reading, my guess is 60 -75 Amps, but will have to look it up.
The initial value depends on the load on the motor, the battery and the cables and contact condition.
The newer reduction gear starters take less than the old 1:1 motors.
I read 400 amps on a Pontiac one time.

So first what you need to do is make sure the battery doesn't have a bad Cell, is charging up correctly, the contacts at the battery are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok I will do so.

I think the battery is ok. Just replaced it one year ago and have had no problems. But will test it. The leads are definrtly clean and tight. I installed the cheapest battery possible. The auto place had killed my battery while doing and aligment, ( idiots), then they charged my battery. Once it got to winter time the battery was junk. So they replaced it with the cheapo kind.

I will look for those amps.\


Thanks
 

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By the way,

400 amps is dam high. I work in the aviation field and that is higher than what we have.
Yes the highest I ever measured. cheap induction meter, so its approx reading.
Starter would stall !!! Engine would fire before TDC on first compression. Of course it took me months to figure this out.
The car was a 455 and my first car in the USA.

One owner, 3 batteries and 5 starters in five years, they told me this when I was buying it !!!
I Took it to Sears, they put in the biggest battery they had, only made it worse.
In the end I re-curved the distributor and set the base timing closer to TDC, that cured it.


I worked on SCR's for IR in the UK and measured half cycle surge currents on 150 Amp SCR and 200 amp diode devices, saw specs around 900 Amps, and readings over 1000 amps regularly.
 

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I would suggest if you want to check this you just get an induction meter that can measure 100A or so and use that on the lead to the starter and crank it with the ign and fuel pump fuses pulled.
If the battery is good then > 11.5 V (must be over 10V for sure) and If starter is good 75 - 90 A, the reading will be low if the brushes are bad.
I might add this is best guess, I have not checked a IS300 starter yet !!!
 

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If Amp readings high that suggests a short in the starter / solenoid, and batt volts will also be dragged down.
 

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it is normal for electrical motors to demand 3-4x more there rated amp when kicking on that is why batteries have 500+ cranking amps otheriwse we would all be using a 12v 75 amp battery. Turn your car on engine off let it sit for 5-10 seconds. If it starts up just fine then its probably a dying fuel pump. Also gas quality helps to, make sure you only use premium in the IS300 because thats what it calls for.

Doing a starter draw test tells nothing. Its probably your cheap battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
tested battery good. 12.6 volts off, and 14.somethig volts on. Havent had a chance to check the amps. Need to get a meter, or find one for use.

My multimeter doesnt go that high.

Thanks for the info.

Will return with results hopefully soon.
 
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