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Thanks to my.IS members BigDaddyRich, xboostx, and AltezzaBob for posting information about their V160 swaps. This FAQ has a couple sections, first, a parts list from BigDaddyRich and then two takes on the actual installation by xboostx and AltezzaBob respectively.

This parts list was taken from SupraForums, as such it is not specifically for the IS300. I have done my best to exclude what does not apply to the IS300 but there may be some things that I have neglected remove or add. The long list of parts assumes that you are purchasing a brand new bare Getrag V-160 from Toyota. If, however, you are purchasing a used unit that is complete, you will not need many of these parts. I also do not know how much of the mounting and shifter hardware is necessary in the IS300, contact SRT (Swift Racing) for their modified shifter and mount kit for the V-160. You can use a stock Toyota Sequoia 4x4 driveshaft or have a custom aftermarket d/s built for you. There are also several choices for clutches and flywheels that you can use.
BigDaddyRich said:
You will need the V160 shifter, shifter tripod, as well as all the clutch related bearings, thrust plates and lock rings. You will also need a V160 Flywheel, Pressure plate, clutch, custom driveshaft, Driveshaft yoke, V160 tranny mount, V160 clutch slave cylinder. This swap can easily top $6000 if you decide to buy new.

taken from SupraForums (make final cost judgment at your own risk)

Clutch parts:
90363-12002-77 pilot bearing list 8.76 cost 6.48
96152-00500 snap ring list 2.66 cost 1.97
90903-63001 t/o bearing list 65.50 cost 48.44
90560-50001 snap ring
90560-79001 spacer list 2.31 cost 1.71
90206-12006 wave washer list 1.57 cost 1.17
90520-75001 snap ring list 2.97 cost 2.20
31264-14060 spring list 2.97 cost 2.20
31231-14050 hub list 33.38 cost 24.69
31204-14060 fork list 65.16 cost 48.18
31234-14020 spring list 1.97 cost 1.46
31236-14030 support list 31.27 cost 23.12
90119-08079 clutch cover bolts list .46 cost .33 ea x 6
90119-10054 bolt list .86 cost .64 x 2
90910-02115 flywheel bolts list 9.72 cost 7.18 ea 8
13450-0W011 flywheel list 611.96 cost 452.53

Use your own supplied clutch cover and disc. See up-grade list at the end of this post for the TRD single disc or TRD twin disc kits.

parts total : 674.85

Transmission:
33030-0w212 v160 assy new list 5478.75 cost 4774.12
31123-14020 inspection cover list 29.84 cost 22.07
31121-14030 inspection cover list 36.18 cost 26.75
90080-11228 bolt list .69 cost .50 x 4
08885-01306 v160 oil qt list 47.62 cost 35.21 x 2

Transmission comes dry shipped, no fluid.

parts total : 4895.36

Clutch Hydraulics:
31470-14060 slave cylinder list 64.61 cost 47.77
90080-10055 bolt list .89 cost .65 x 2

Braided TRD clutch hose available, see up-grade list at end of post.

parts total : 49.07

Transmission mounting/driveshaft:
12371-46110 trans mount list 70.56 cost 52.18
90119-08770 bolt list .89 cost .65 x 4
90179-08159 nut list .89 cost .65 x 4
90201-11013 washer list .52 cost .38 x 4
90179-11017 nut list 1.51 cost 1.12 x 4
37100-14810 driveshaft list 675.26 cost 499.33
90119-10217 bolt list 1.51 cost 1.12 x 2
90105-12265 bolt list 7.63 cost 5.65 x 3
90560-12059 spacer list 4.12 cost 3.04 x 3
90179-12128 nut list .91 cost .68 x 3

TRD trans mount available, see up grade list at end of post.

parts total: 593.06

Shifter Assembly:
[EDITOR’S NOTE: I do not know how much of this you will need, BDR did this swap in a different car. Contact SRT (Swift Racing) for their modified shifter setup.]
33504-14130 shift knob list 103.63 cost 76.63
33511-14031 control shaft list 25.15 cost 18.60
33513-22030 yoke list 7.63 cost 5.65
33530-14442 93.5-95 short throw shifter list 126.44 cost 93.49
90301-11015 o ring list 2.92 cost 2.15 x 4
33531-14010 boot list 39.44 cost 29.16
90387-08134 collar list 1.91 cost 1.41 x 2
33555-14110 boot list 31.55 cost 23.33
33555-14100 boot list 9.83 cost 7.27
33556-14050 seat list 1.54 cost 1.14
33057-14010 bracket list 44.33 cost 32.78
33570-14070 shifter tri-pod list 96.77 cost 71.56
93381-16016 bolt list .85 cost .55 x 4
90179-08095 nut list 1.14 cost .85 x 2
90105-08200 bolt list .89 cost .65 x 2
91651-60835 bolt list .26 cost .20 x 4
90105-08076 bolt list .74 cost .55
90179-08233 nut list .91 cost .68
90250-06026 pin list 1.06 cost .79
90467-21010 clip list 2.61 cost 1.93
33546-22020 bushing list 14.15 cost 10.47 ea x 2

parts total : 380.98

Rear differential: [NB: This is optional but stock IS300 gearing will make for very short gearing with the V160.]
41651-14010 mount list 81.14 cost 60.00
41110-14780 6spd lsd diff assy list 2563.80 cost 1895.85
79191-00672 75w90 Castrol gear oil list 13.95 cost 10.15 x 2
42340-14140 lh drive axle list 393.49 cost 290.97
Diff comes dry, need to fill.

Up-grade to TRD LSD UNIT see list at end of post.

parts total : 2267.12

GRAND TOTAL: [for those of you who don't know how to use a pocket computer or are to lazy]

674.85
4895.36
49.07
593.06
380.98
2267.12
_______
$8,860.43 SHIPPING NOT INCLUDED

xboostx said:
Well as some know I swapped in my v160 not to long ago. And to tell you the truth it was very straight forward. I want to make this thread cause I have noticed that many are for some reason intimidated by the swap, mainly for its cost but also the "work" needed to do it.

The swap for me was super simple. The most "difficult" thing was the tranny cross member. Which isn’t difficult just time consuming and what took the most time for me.

Ok well this is how the swap went....

First thing I did was to remove the w58 and flywheel then test fit the tranny. The reason for it is to see if I need to buy any extra room anywhere. I didn’t. I don’t know why but there are different experiences. I did hammer in a few spots that were close but it was very little. It was more of a mental reassurance. Well everything was perfect. Then i took it back out and added 2 qts of royal purple synchromax. I cut the shift linkage myself. It was about 50mm. This was according to the shifter I had. (C's S/S). I measured it with the SRT shifter bracket installed (2 bolts) then got the distance to center the shifter in neutral.

After I had everything mocked up and set for the shifter I installed the RPS billet flywheel. (buy new flywheel bolts from Toyota). My v160 was bolted off a 6 speed supra and given to me with the pressure plate still intact, all the sensors the slave and clutch line etc its was COMPLETE. So I did not have to touch that. I also installed a new pilot bearing so I would get that squeaky sound in idle. Cost like $7 at Toyota. (its in the middle of the block, its about 1inch in diameter and is right behind the crank.) Be careful when installing the pilot bearing. Use like a 32 mm socket to hammer it in so you don’t hit the center just the outer ring. I had to buy a 2nd one.

After torqueing down the F/W over 60 ft/lb, I put the clutch in the tranny (again the P/P was still hooked up) and slid in the tranny then secured it with 4 bolts. The installed the new pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. Then the covers that cover the P/P and F/W stuff on each side of the tranny. Make sure you don’t pinch anything while installing the tranny. Now with the tranny hooked up I centered it using the stock cross member. You have to put the center back holes of the cross member on the front bolts of the tranny mount (facing engine) so the holes on the ends of the cross member match the holes on the frame. Then I used a jack to hold it in place. Then with the v160 cross member, I mocked up the holes where the holes would be if the cross member were installed with the centered tranny matching the holes on the frame. I drilled a wide hole, from the original hole to where the new holes would be then filled in the gap left by the old wholes so there would be no chance of play.

After that was done I bolted in the cross member and the tranny stayed right where I had it. Then I installed the v160 clutch line. Then I installed the shifter assembly. I do suggest to have the shift linkage and shifter bracket already installed, and then after the tranny is installed you install the shifter and company. It will save you lots of time. I then installed the sequoia 4x4 d/s. You will need the 4 bolts that hold the d/s to the tranny. You will not find it at a hardware store. VERY unlikely. Buy 5 from Toyota 1 extra just incase, they’re cheap. The D/S just slides right up with the telescoping part completely compressed. And you can use your old 4 nuts and bolts that hook up the d/s to the rear end. Make sure these are tight.

Now just go in your cabin and finish the center console and shifter assembly. You will then need to bleed you clutch system. If you clutch pedal pressure and clutch engaging point isn’t like it used to be drive it around for a little while then bleed it again. And if that doesn’t work. Then go in and under the driver dash and start adjusting. And there you have it. A 6 spd IS300.

Now I have heard of people using spacers to lower the tranny to get the d/s aligned. I did not do this. Again it could be possible that the GTE block helps the tranny sit lower. I did a 160+ mph run and vibration was minimal, and that’s using a 1 piece d/s.

I hope this helps people with their install and help with questions people might have. If anyone has any questions or anything they might want to point out please do so. If I forgot something I will go back and fix it.

This also helped me out with info like torque specs and other useful info.

HorsepowerFreaks Clutch Replacement Tech Article

Good luck with your swaps.

David
AltezzaBob said:
Install was a bitch and a half. Raised the motor for clearance, then the motor mounts wouldn’t line up. trying to move that and the 6-speed attached is hell itself. Everything that could go wrong did. But everything lined up perfectly and such.

Notes:
-Drained transmission fluid
-Drained engine coolant
-Disconnected battery
-Unhooked my intake piping and intercooled piping
-Unbolted center console and shifter assembly and boot
-Disconnected y-pipe/b-pipe
-Took off underbody panels (2 main and the driver side ones)
-Unbolted driveshaft
-unbolted crossmember and transmission insulator mount
-unbolted the engine mounting nuts(DO NOT THREAD OFF ALL THE WAY!!!!)
-unbolted transmission bolts 5-17mm's 3-14mm's (all 53lb-ft) and 2-14mm's for the starter. Engine has to -raised a bit to get the angle for the top 2/3 17mm's bolts to get loose. 3ft extension or a 2 foot with a foot, or 2 foot and 2 1/2 foot extensions work.
-removed transmission with a bit clocking clockwise
-unbolted the flywheel with an impact gun that needs to have a lot of pressure. 100psi+ a must.

-Installed new flywheel and torqued 36lb-ft then additional 90degree turn
-*STEP I MISSED* invest in the aligning tool to get the clutch disk and pressure plate lined up with the flywheel dowel pins and the bolt holes it needs to align to, and make match marks with white out or something
-Prepped transmission for install. Installed the Getrag fluid out of the car. Installed shifter bracket, shift linkage control rod, dowel pin and constant c clip, yoke and the bushing collar and o-rings.
-KEPT THE 6SPEED SPEED SENSOR IN
-Replace stock reverse light connector to the 6speed reverse light indicator
-Extend speed sensor wires (don’t really need to. it fits just perfect
-installed pressure plate and clutch disk onto transmission
-Installed the transmission with a lot of grunting, sore hands and muscle failure. Bolted them down 5-17mm's, 3-14mm's, 2-14mm starter bolts down to 53lb-ft of torque.
-Plug in the reverse light and speed sensor connector wires at the same time transmission is in. Well while its still angled downwards to get over it.
-Installed and bolted transmission insulator mount and crossmember.
-Bolted shifter in to the shift linkage yoke
-bolted driveshaft into place. FREAKING perfect. I love you phamous101.
-bolted engine back into place
-bolted all the underbody panels, exhaust system, intercooler/intake piping, shifter, interior pieces etc.
-powered car back on

Aftermath: 3 sore guys, 1 sore kid,
-Break in the clutch. Some guys do it, some don't. I have a 6puck HPR bronze unsprung disk with ACT yellow heavy-duty pressure plate and stock OEM flywheel. I majorly slipped the clutch to rough it in.
-Since the supra clutch system and flywheel are different thickness, you have to readjust the clutch pedal's push rod that goes into the Clutch master cylinder to make it longer. 3.5 turns does it. You’ll need a 12mm and 14mm's wrench to do so and a lot of upside down time to get it out. A needle nose pliers won't hurt to get the clip out of the rod pin.

So far with the 6speed sensor, I don’t need recalibration. Speedo reads dead on. Weird.
 

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Thanks to my.IS members BigDaddyRich, xboostx, and AltezzaBob for posting information about their V160 swaps. This FAQ has a couple sections, first, a parts list from BigDaddyRich and then two takes on the actual installation by xboostx and AltezzaBob respectively.

This parts list was taken from SupraForums, as such it is not specifically for the IS300. I have done my best to exclude what does not apply to the IS300 but there may be some things that I have neglected remove or add. The long list of parts assumes that you are purchasing a brand new bare Getrag V-160 from Toyota. If, however, you are purchasing a used unit that is complete, you will not need many of these parts. I also do not know how much of the mounting and shifter hardware is necessary in the IS300, contact SRT (Swift Racing) for their modified shifter and mount kit for the V-160. You can use a stock Toyota Sequoia 4x4 driveshaft or have a custom aftermarket d/s built for you. There are also several choices for clutches and flywheels that you can use.
Everything seems good in the list. If you take the V160 parts list right from Supraforums.com you will end up spending about $400 on little stupid nuts and bolts that you don't need for the swap. (like I did). But this shortened list looks like it has just what anyone would need. (as long as you are swapping from a 5spd manual IS, to the 6spd TT Supra tranny)

One thing I would add, I got all my parts from this Toyota Dealership.
503-693-6893 Portland, Oregon.
They are located in Oregon, (no sales tax), FREE SHIPPING, and you get the parts at a discounted price. Ask for Ken Blake in the parts dept. He owns a Supra and will be happy to help or answer any questions. He was very informative when ordering my V160 parts. (you don't have to use him, but it was alot cheaper then getting those same parts locally for me.)

*also this thread isn't to easy to find. It would probably be of better use stickied in the Go Faster section.
 
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