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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey everyone, today I did an Engine Start button for ChrisCarlos. This tutorial is based off of his car which is a 2004 Eshift. The MT's are the same to do, and are a bit easier IMO because there is less clutter where the button goes. Both are the same difficulty.

1) First thing is first, if you have an Eshift, GENTLY pry up the chrome trim around the shifter assembly. Be careful not to scratch anything, if you use a screw driver, wrap it with a towel and gently pry it up enough so you can get your fingers in and pry it up. Be gentle to not pull to hard and break anything. If you have an MT, just pull by the inside edge of the leather shift boot and it will come out.

2) Once you got that out, go ahead and unplug the THREE harness'. One is for the Cig lighter ring, one is for the cig lighter, and one is for the ashtray bulb. Unplug all of them and set the console aside.

3) Remove the cigarette lighter from the console. This in my opinion is the most annoying step if you plan on conserving your cig lighter assembly. In order to not break it, you must be very gentle at pushing the white tabs in to slide the assembly loose. Once you did that, gently separate the center heater from the outside assembly. Be careful NOT TO BREAK THE BLACK PLASTIC RING. IT WILL BE USED AGAIN!!

4) Have your dremel and circular sanding bit ready. Slowly dremel out the cig lighter whole so the starter button can freely move around. You will need the extra play to align the button and the ring to be centered and look good. THe idea is not to have a wedge fit. Dremel it nice and open, but not all the way!

It should look like this when done.


Now, time to dremel the plastic ring. Dremel the ring ALL THE WAY to the edge. Be careful NOT to damage the edge, you want it to look as OEM as possible. You will also need to dremel the chrome ridges off the button as they hinder the button from going all the way through the ring without breaking it. Keep in mind, none of this is pressure fitted. Pressure will BREAK the plastic ring. You will need to speed up the dremel to do the ring as its designed to be heat resistant from the cig lighter. You literally are shaving it down.

Here is another pic:



Now what you need to do, is glue or TIGHTLY tape the ring to the button. Make sure its centered. Also, make sure you align the little tab of the ring on the bottom to align with the top of the center console. You can dremel that little tab off if you want. I personally dont, i just make sure everything is straight and aligned. Make sure you DO NOT get any glue in the little hole on the Engine Start button as you can damage it!

When you got the button and ring glued/taped up together go ahead and place it in the console. Use a hot glue gun and glue the button from the bottom of the console. You will need to use alot of glue, and make sure you dont shift the button around and that its centered. Once the glue is slightly dry, go ahead and rest the console on its face so there is some pressure holding the button in place.

Now, ONTO THE WIRING. I use a relay when i do this so the button is INACTIVE when the car is on, and nobody can start it accidentally and it will preserve the life of the button.

what you need to do first, remove the plastic shin panel under the steering column. Remove the AC temp sensor and hose, and unplug the Memory Seat harness near the coin holder (if you have memory seats) and unplug the headlight washer harness (if applicable) Remove the 3 screws and set aside. Remove the Hood release cable, and push in the tabs for the OBD II port and pull the harness through. It should look like this.







Now, unplug the ignition harness and cut back the plastic sheath that covers the wires. Get read as you will be needing TWO wires out of that stalk. Set aside the Black/Red wire, and Black/White wire.

It should look like this, the wiring is the same for almost ALL toyota models.



Remove the metal reinforcement, it is 3 10 MM nuts. THis is what it looks like.



Now to the actual wiring and what to do with the button, Relay and the 2 wires from the ignition harness...

For the Button itself, look at it, turn it around so you see the back. Two of the prongs will not get used, and wherever you get your button from, it should come with a plug, you do not need to sodder right onto the button, and will only make things harder. If yours did not come with a plug to plug into the back, get one from an electronics store that works. 3 wires will be comming out the back. GROUND, IGNITION and one that goes to the #85 Prong on the Relay. Try and color code your wires to make life Eaiser.

I did:
RED=Ignition
BLACK=Ground
BLUE=Starter

Now for the RELAY.. You will need a standard 4 prong relay.

The #87 Prong goes to the Black/red wire on the ignition harness.
the #86 prong goes to GROUND.
the #30 prong goes to the black/white starter wire. DO NOT cut the starter wire and only tap into it. You can still use your key to start the car this way.

Here is a picture of my self made wiring diagram.



Edit: A diff diagram if you can't understand Malek's cro-magnum wiring diagram.



Take the ground from the start button and the one from the relay and tie them together. Make a little loop with the open end of the wire like this so when you put the metal reinforcement back, the bolt will hold it in place against the metal and grounding it. Like this:




Zip tie the relay tightly to the harness under the steering column like this, and clean up and tidy up. I personally HATE messy wiring, so how clean you do it is personal preference. Make sure all wiring is clear of any pinch points. Here is where i tied the relay.



Once the wiring and cleaning up is done, plug the Ignition harness back in. Place the metal reinforcement back, start the 3 nuts, and then ground your 2 wires from the Relay and start button. Then hand tighten the 3 bolts. Do not overtighten as you will snap a nut or bolt.

Place the shin panel back after you DOUBLE check your wiring. Place the center console back in, make sure there is NOTHING in the way of the wires comming out of the button. THe button is rather long, so it will need all the clearance you get give it.

Here is what the End result should look like.



ENJOY, be smart, be safe, and do not mess up your car.
 

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So the key still has to be in the ignition and turned to the start position?
 

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Please + rep him folks. This takes a long time to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes, this is done as just a gadget. You can still use your key to start the car. Once i figure out how to do the GS, IS or Prius button, i will let you guys know.
 

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Nice write-up. Plus rep!
 

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Dang Malek you work fast! I just got home now and you already got the tutorial up?? Sheesh, +rep for doing this for me, and not FU'ing up my car! :)

Malek's the man. OORAH!
 

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Malekreza11 said:
yes, this is done as just a gadget. You can still use your key to start the car. Once i figure out how to do the GS, IS or Prius button, i will let you guys know.
Umm, maybe I'll wait for that.... ;) +rep for you!!
 

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nice info, great install.
 

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My mom has the new gs with the start button but I think she would hang me if were to mess around with her car.
 

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Your mom is a he?? Justed joshing.... wait until he/she goes to bed one night then rip it down.
 

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doodlebug said:
Your mom is a he?? Justed joshing.... wait until he/she goes to bed one night then rip it down.
The key is much more sophisticated then the is300 key.
Better range and different technology.
I dont think it would be an easy feat to have the same thing integrated into an is300.
 

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wow thats nice... looks oem +rep for both you scumbags :)

"You must show some love to other members before giving it to chrisCARL0S again."

wow this is the second time
 
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