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2001 Lexus is300 (turbonetics kit)
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Discussion Starter #21
Assume you mean white smoke out the exhaust? If so from what i remember white means its running lean, blueish is rich and black is oil burning. What are the afr when its like that? Might need tuning
I posted earlier that I'm going to get a tune this upcoming week. But AFR is at 15 at idle and when getting on it a bit it spike up to around 12,13. Since then I've just been waiting to get it tuned. I connected my laptop to the emanage to see what information I could find. Only thing I noticed is that injectors are 420cc.
 

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I though that black was rich and blue was oil. At any rate I would check the turbo oil drain to make sure it is of appropriate size (at least -10), not obstructed, and doesn't have any bottle necks. And I also agree with changing the timing belt.
 

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Stop driving it around and get it tuned. 15 is too lean at idle. 13 is too lean under boost. Even 12 is too lean under heavy boost. 420cc injectors aren’t going to net much power as of now.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Stop driving it around and get it tuned. 15 is too lean at idle. 13 is too lean under boost. Even 12 is too lean under heavy boost. 420cc injectors aren’t going to net much power as of now.
Relax im not driving it. I have a daily driver I already scheduled a tune as i stated before.
 

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2002 Lexus IS300
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I am relaxed. No caps or exclamation points bro. 😁
 

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Here’s a pic of my pump gas LambdaTargetTable.

135595


It idles 950-1000rpm x -6psi. Those GSC cams really killed my vacuum with their overlap.
 

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2002 Lexus IS300
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Why would idle be to leaner idle ? Isn’t idle supposed to be like 14.7. It’s supposed to be lean to be fuel efficient. From what I know.
? I didn’t say make your idle leaner. I said 15 is too lean.
 

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At idle you’re not caring about fuel efficiency as your MPG is ZERO. You care about idle quality. 15 may work but it most likely will not. It will probably sputter some and not idle very smoothly. Your tuner will sort it out for you as you said you will have it done
 

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Discussion Starter #31
At idle you’re not caring about fuel efficiency as your MPG is ZERO. You care about idle quality. 15 may work but it most likely will not. It will probably sputter some and not idle very smoothly. Your tuner will sort it out for you as you said you will have it done
Idk where your getting your conclusion from, but it’s not accurate. The car’s idle is super smooth no hiccups (15 a/f).
 

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I made a large assumption that it may have not been idling smooth. My bad. I’m sure your tuner will extract as much power from it as he can. I think (unless you planned to already) you should do your fuel system first before paying for the tune. That way you won’t have to pay for tuning twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
All good. It’s ok I’m going to get a baseline tune to see where it’s at and have it running safe until i get the injectors, fuel pump etc. So don’t mind paying for a retune.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So i got the car tuned. Looks like the wastegate spring is set at 8psi. The car would hold 8/9psi and start getting boost creep. By the time the car hit 5500 the turbo was boosting 12/13 psi. Unfortunately since we were tuning through the maf sensor, it maxed out. Car could not get more air since the maf was maxed out.

Next step is buying a map sensor to connect to it and tune via speed density.

car made 330rwhp on 91 and that’s just shifting at 5500, with boosting holding 8/9psi and spiking up to 12/13 at 5500.
Going to see if I can get a smaller spring for the wastegate to keep boost creep to 15 at max. Overall I’m happy with the numbers. Good baseline to start with.
 

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Really shouldn’t be creeping that much. Where is the wastegate signal coming from? Should be right off the turbo compressor housing. Other things to check would be the gate dump is unobstructed, poor manifold -wg flange construction, too small of a wastegate. I had a dump muffler that was causing too much obstruction and would cause me to hit boost cut @22psi. It made it a lot quieter but had to go. I hate the raspy ass open dump sound but don’t really trust anyone to recirculate it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It’s running open wastegate exhaust . So it gets really loud when flooring it. I didn’t see any obstruction. I also thought maybe because it’s too small. It’s on the piping right next to the head. You can see it in the video I posted on this thread I believe.
 

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You should definitely provide a boost reference to the bottom port on the gate. That will help rid the creeping. Off the compressor housing would work fastest. However others do run it off the intake manifold or some other point where boost will be seen.

do you have your vvti running on the standalone? If you disconnect the factory MAF you will encounter other issues.
 

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I also thought maybe because it’s too small
Could be, looks like the 38mm tnetics gate - should be OK sized. Can’t really see the manifold to wg flange but a lot of creep is caused at this junction because of poor design. It’s actually easier for exhaust gas to go thru the turbine than take a 90* turn out the wg. Not saying that’s your problem (because I can’t see it) but could be a possibility. There’s not a boost controller in there, is there?


do you have your vvti running on the standalone? If you disconnect the factory MAF you will encounter other issues.
I think he’s on an emanage, I could have missed where he changed it though. I don’t think it can control vvti. He also won’t be able to disconnect the maf on an emanage. You can “clamp” the maf output at whatever voltage the stock ecu starts disliking boost (usually 4.1-4.3V) and then tune based off the emanage’s map sensor.
 

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I think he’s on an emanage, I could have missed where he changed it though. I don’t think it can control vvti. He also won’t be able to disconnect the maf on an emanage. You can “clamp” the maf output at whatever voltage the stock ecu starts disliking boost (usually 4.1-4.3V) and then tune based off the emanage’s map sensor.
Yea I was going to say it’s going to be hard to disconnect the MAF without running into issues. If you did even try and get away from the MAF altogether, your gas gauge would read wrong, vvti wouldn’t work, DBW would also not work correctly.
 
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