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Rollin Boosted
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I have been running a 100 shot for almost a year and have had no problems. Here are a few things to help u with maintaining your car.

1. Spray responsibly.... what i mean is don't go through a whole bottle in one night. Also make sure the car is in tune for nitrous(that is the biggest).

2. Maintain your car, change ur oil every 2000 miles, run colder spark plugs, for automatics run a tranny cooler, and check all ur connections every once in a while.

3. Finally, run the right setup for ur needs.....all systems should be on a window switch (no questions asked).

With this small list u can go a long way to making ur car a reliable spraying vehicle.
 
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IS300luver said:
I have been running a 100 shot for almost a year and have had no problems. Here are a few things to help u with maintaining your car.

1. Spray responsibly.... what i mean is don't go through a whole bottle in one night. Also make sure the car is in tune for nitrous(that is the biggest).

2. Maintain your car, change ur oil every 2000 miles, run colder spark plugs, for automatics run a tranny cooler, and check all ur connections every once in a while.

3. Finally, run the right setup for ur needs.....all systems should be on a window switch (no questions asked).

Looks like you have a S-AFC II. Does this play in the Nitrous setup?

With this small list u can go a long way to making ur car a reliable spraying vehicle.
 

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IS300luver said:
I have been running a 100 shot for almost a year and have had no problems. Here are a few things to help u with maintaining your car.

1. Spray responsibly.... what i mean is don't go through a whole bottle in one night. Also make sure the car is in tune for nitrous(that is the biggest).

2. Maintain your car, change ur oil every 2000 miles, run colder spark plugs, for automatics run a tranny cooler, and check all ur connections every once in a while.

3. Finally, run the right setup for ur needs.....all systems should be on a window switch (no questions asked).

With this small list u can go a long way to making ur car a reliable spraying vehicle.
do you monitor your A/F ratio?
 

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Sirnixalot said:
.....how do you know me? I was a nitrous "guru" on the Ranger forums.....must be someone else! This is too big a coincidence
nope im not referring to you...his SN is nikko and hes a nitrous guru too :lol:

thanks for the feed back guys
IS300luver what are you running in the 1/4??
 

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Rollin Boosted
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Sorry to reply so late, i have been a little busy.

AustinAltezza: I ran 13.4 @108 this summer when it was really humid and an untuned afc

goldark: I monitor on certain runs just as a spot check usually, 1 out of every 3 is usually when i monitor.

rllinghardis300: Yes, the S-AFCII is tuned for nitrous. A good bench mark for running nitrous is it is always better to run a little rich than to be sorry later. What do u mean by concealing my shot? If u are talking about having all the arming switches and the bottle hidden then no i don't but it would be easy to hide the bottle where the spare tire goes and the switches can go anywhere.

Hope this helps if there are anymore questions i'm here to help and make recommendations.
 

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IS300luver said:
Sorry to reply so late, i have been a little busy.

AustinAltezza: I ran 13.4 @108 this summer when it was really humid and an untuned afc

goldark: I monitor on certain runs just as a spot check usually, 1 out of every 3 is usually when i monitor.

rllinghardis300: Yes, the S-AFCII is tuned for nitrous. A good bench mark for running nitrous is it is always better to run a little rich than to be sorry later. What do u mean by concealing my shot? If u are talking about having all the arming switches and the bottle hidden then no i don't but it would be easy to hide the bottle where the spare tire goes and the switches can go anywhere.

Hope this helps if there are anymore questions i'm here to help and make recommendations.
when you get the chance--can you elaborate a bit more on the tuning for nitrous part..
like:
how do you run when you are not using nitrous with a car that is rich?
how did you work with your tuner in terms dialing in the s-afc?
can your afc be tuned w/o nitrous and the n20 be added later?
wet or dry?
brand/model suggestions? it appears that no major brand has an is300 package, so how/who do you choose?
"window switch"?

any thing i missed?

edit: one more thing, spark plug brand/model suggestions?

and what do you think of this thing:
 

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Rollin Boosted
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To begin, with a wet nitrous system it adds more fuel with a fuel solenoid by T-ing into ur fuel line and pumping additional fuel in relationship to nitrous. This done with combinations of jets in the fuel and nitrous solenoids which means that the car will only run rich when u spray....which is very good. The s-afc is tuned on dyno which u know can measure the a/f ratio and therefore u can add or take away fuel. Also, there are two settings on the s-afcII one for naturaly aspirated and one that can be used for nitrous. Yes, the s-afc can be added before nitrous, but will have to be retuned after the nitrous is installed. The only kit i would put on a car is a wet kit. The best kit on the market is the Nitrous Express Gen X 2 kit. This kit includes all nitrous fittings, solenoids, bottle, purge valve, bottle warmer and blow down tube(i might have missed something that is included but that is most of it). I run NGK plugs but i don't have the model # in front of me right now. The zex dry jet air filter is not good in my opinion because that nitrous starts at the bottom of the intake and would not be feed equaly to all cylinders by the time it got up the intake. That and it is only made for dry kits. Hope this helps, if u have any other questions let me know.
 

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did you tap into the manifold for your nozzles for a direct spray (6 jets, one for ech cylinder)?
and if no, then you must have two nozzles on your intake, one for additional fuel and one for the n20. if that is the case, then how is spraying into the intake a few inches from the throttle body via a nozzle that is stuck into the side of your intake any different than spraying through the filter (i.e. that zex thingy) and letting the n20 flow through the throttle body with the intake air? (other than you really can only run a dry set up).

and how would you tune your afc if you were running wet? seems like you could run the car lean for when you are not squeezing, and then when you use n20 the wet set up would toss in the extra fuel? meaning one would not need to modify the afc setting for n20 one way or the other?
 

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MSM MT IS300 said:
then how is spraying into the intake a few inches from the throttle body via a nozzle that is stuck into the side of your intake any different than spraying through the filter (i.e. that zex thingy) and letting the n20 flow through the throttle body with the intake air? (other than you really can only run a dry set up).
EXACTLY....u can only run a dry set up :shame: very dangerous, too much nitrous and not enough fuel = holes in ur pistons!!
 

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Rollin Boosted
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The difference of running the nitrous through the bottom of the filter is that the nitrous cannot travel as fast from the bottom. Therefore, the nitrous would get into the cylinders right near the throttle body and would not have enough pressure to get the nitrous evenly to all the other cylinders. I don't know if pressure is the right word in this case and i'm not saying ur wrong, thats is the what i have been told by experts that nitrous tends to act with that setup i.e. thats why nozzles are placed as close to the throttle body as possible. Now with the dry setup(dangerous :pissed: ) the nitrous would cool the air going in as well as the going into the engine which is a plus. Please tell me ur thoughts on this concept. Realize this setup with the filter is not made for wet kits either.
 

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IS300luver said:
Now with the dry setup(dangerous :pissed: ) the nitrous would cool the air going in as well as the going into the engine which is a plus. Please tell me ur thoughts on this concept.
nitrous oxide is a chemical compound of nitrogen and oxygen. thats why it doesnt burn if lite by a match. but, when under extreme compression, the molecules seperate and oxygen is released into the combustion camber. (in a sense, this works just like F/I) as everyone knows, the more oxygen u have the more fuel u can add = more HP. the n02 does cool the combustion camber but if the additional fuel is not there then this cuzs and overly lean condition and can cuz extreme heat. extreme heat can melt pistons, rings, valves and what ever else....along with ur wallet!!! the only time a dry system can safely be used is on applications were the fuel injector are commanded to richen the A/F mixture to compensate for the addition oxygen.
 

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AustinAltezza said:
so far, i havent heard of anyone breaking anything with nitrous...does this mean there are less problems with it..meaning more reliable than f/i? just wanna hear your thoughts
IMO if any power upgrade thats installed correctly, F/I or nitrous oxide, can be done reliably. horse power is horse power. too much of it and not enough to back it up will cause anything to break.
 

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Rollin Boosted
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I would have to say that u are taking a chance without proper tuning. If there isn't any fuel being added then it could create a lean condition which means boom. Also before u start u need to dyno to see if ur car is running rich or lean.
 

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Am I Hype-R???
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NItrouS 300 said:
Just for the record, Nitrous is a form of forced induction (F/I).
this is debatable...forced induction usually refers to an increase (positve) in pressure...when using N2O, you're not really increasing the cylinder pressure...just increasing the ratio of oxygen...

it's basically called a "power adder" but it's not really refered to as forced induction...although i have heard some people in the industry refer to nitrous as a form of forced induction, in proper theory i was taught that it is not a true form...

i'm usually wrong anyway, so feel free to correct me on this one... :wink:
 
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