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Have you tried the OBDII method? My meter wouldn't read correctly either ...
 

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I installed it, also same problems showing on the voltmeter, I guess the adjusting method for the 2jzgte is different...

What is the basics of adjusting a TPS? cause the 0.65 till 0.70 is not working for me since my car reads 1.211 till 2.000 which means I'm too far from the correct voltage...
Well that's the same part number used on the stock 2JZGE. If you followed Nyke's video and can't dial in the correct voltage then i would think the throttle body is different on your setup. Do you have an OBD2 so you can try setting it that way(using throttle angle percentage). Otherwise, you should be able to slap that on there in the most clockwise position and move counterclockwise.

I've been reading this thread> http://my.is/forums/f114/ge-gte-aristo-swap-399023/

And it appears it's not adjusted the same. And according to this thread, it has same part number and the wires are just lengthened but moves a different way.(i think)

Check out this thread.
http://my.is/forums/f114/throttle-positioning-sensor-ge-vs-gte-364098/
 

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If you have an Aristo setup, i don't think you have a DLC3 or OBD2 port. If you do you that ability, check under realtime data and under throttle opening. From there it should give you the running throttle position and it should be 14.8 +/-0.8%
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just a small update cause I didn't find any live data readers close by me...

A friend of mine came to check what was going on, we loosened my throttle body's cable and it reduced the reading on my SAFC2 till 0.0% while it was stuck on 24% all the time before. now whats going on is the following...

while opening the throttle body by hand while the key being (ON) I hear a clicking or ticking sound inside the throttle body.

Why am I mentioning the ticking? well because when I reach full throttle while the car is on ON. something inside the throttle body makes a double ticking sound, and when that happens and we let go of the throttle body it doesn't go back to 0%, it goes back to 10% as if its getting stuck.

the timeline is like this for the rotating.

1. Throttle body on 0%
2. We open throttle body till 10% (a ticking sound happens at 10%)
3. We continue to open throttle till 75% (another ticking sound happens, and now we're WOT)
4. We let go, so that throttle can close again but it doesn't (it gets stuck on the first tick which is 10% throttle or the first tick/click whatever you wana call it)
 

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Just a small update cause I didn't find any live data readers close by me...

A friend of mine came to check what was going on, we loosened my throttle body's cable and it reduced the reading on my SAFC2 till 0.0% while it was stuck on 24% all the time before. now whats going on is the following...

while opening the throttle body by hand while the key being (ON) I hear a clicking or ticking sound inside the throttle body.

Why am I mentioning the ticking? well because when I reach full throttle while the car is on ON. something inside the throttle body makes a double ticking sound, and when that happens and we let go of the throttle body it doesn't go back to 0%, it goes back to 10% as if its getting stuck.

the timeline is like this for the rotating.

1. Throttle body on 0%
2. We open throttle body till 10% (a ticking sound happens at 10%)
3. We continue to open throttle till 75% (another ticking sound happens, and now we're WOT)
4. We let go, so that throttle can close again but it doesn't (it gets stuck on the first tick which is 10% throttle or the first tick/click whatever you wana call it)
Just to be clear we're talking about a Aristo throttle body which has a opposite setup from what I've read. I'm not even positive what percentage the TB is supposed to be open at idle, is it the same(14.8%). I have no idea what that ticking means, i know when you turn the stock GE's accelerator pedal position sensor/wheel, the throttle control motor turns the butterfly and is rather loud when doing so. I don't want folks to get confused that this is not a stock 2JZGE engine.
 

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My has the same behavior.

1) Key turn to on position.
2) Reads 14.5 on OBDII
3) Open throttle by hand, then release cable.
4) TB makes buzzing sound
5) OBDII reads 13 something I think

I assume that was normal behavior.
 

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Just a small update cause I didn't find any live data readers close by me...

A friend of mine came to check what was going on, we loosened my throttle body's cable and it reduced the reading on my SAFC2 till 0.0% while it was stuck on 24% all the time before. now whats going on is the following...

while opening the throttle body by hand while the key being (ON) I hear a clicking or ticking sound inside the throttle body.

Why am I mentioning the ticking? well because when I reach full throttle while the car is on ON. something inside the throttle body makes a double ticking sound, and when that happens and we let go of the throttle body it doesn't go back to 0%, it goes back to 10% as if its getting stuck.

the timeline is like this for the rotating.

1. Throttle body on 0%
2. We open throttle body till 10% (a ticking sound happens at 10%)
3. We continue to open throttle till 75% (another ticking sound happens, and now we're WOT)
4. We let go, so that throttle can close again but it doesn't (it gets stuck on the first tick which is 10% throttle or the first tick/click whatever you wana call it)
Since you have an Aristo TB, it may act alittle differently than stock GE's TB. I know when i turn my throttle pulley, i hear a constant hum from the throttle control motor and the butterfly moves accordingly. On GE setup, a fully closed throttle stays cocked at 3.5 degrees open. The ticking sounds like the TCM clutch turning the butterfly.

My has the same behavior.

1) Key turn to on position.
2) Reads 14.5 on OBDII
3) Open throttle by hand, then release cable.
4) TB makes buzzing sound
5) OBDII reads 13 something I think

I assume that was normal behavior.
And it is, well with everything you've already posted Johnny. The first year i bought my car, i was playing around with the throttle the same way and heard that buzzing from the TCM. I actually went to the dealer, not knowing any better, only to be told that humming noise is completely normal. It's almost like a servo motor but with a clutch, and Lexus's servo's are not very quiet as we all know.
 

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Having trouble setting my aristo tb/ge tps. i swapped my old one for a polished one and moved the maf into the intercooler pipe. set the tps at .65v and it won't idle for shit. it will run if i give it gas but it sputters really bad. when i let off it will idle too slow/jerky then dies out. this is the second time i try to install this thing, first time i put my old one back on and set the tps with minimal issues. i didn't even use a volt meter that time, just moved it until it idled like i wanted it to. can't seem to find any spot this thing likes.// Today I put the old TB back on and set the TPS to .65.. started and idled fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
What is the problem with yours? It should be rather simple to either dial in the correct voltage or percentage, based on what you're using to set it.
Basically I have a 2jzgte, and not the stock 2jzge. My engine is from a Toyota Aristo. Japanese. And I'm using stock IS300 ECU, and stock everything on the IS300.

as I mentioned before, one day, the car just went WOT by itself, I started fiddling with the TPS, now it doesn't do that anymore, but if I go full throttle the car just shuts down immediately. Power is low, and something new just popped up 3 days ago.

The new thing is, a P1349 + P0300 code showed up. The car just simply idles on 2000 rpms with a rough idle. I cleaned the filter mesh inside the OCV, nothing happened, I changed plugs, nothing happened, I changed my oil, nothing happened.
 

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Basically I have a 2jzgte, and not the stock 2jzge. My engine is from a Toyota Aristo. Japanese. And I'm using stock IS300 ECU, and stock everything on the IS300.

as I mentioned before, one day, the car just went WOT by itself, I started fiddling with the TPS, now it doesn't do that anymore, but if I go full throttle the car just shuts down immediately. Power is low, and something new just popped up 3 days ago.

The new thing is, a P1349 + P0300 code showed up. The car just simply idles on 2000 rpms with a rough idle. I cleaned the filter mesh inside the OCV, nothing happened, I changed plugs, nothing happened, I changed my oil, nothing happened.
A problem with the oil control valve WILL give you power loss and hesitation if it is not shifting right, meaning the timing is changing because of the OCV and it will misfire as a result. You may have seen my other response to your post. Most likely the OCV needs replaced but i would probably test it first as described in the link below. If it was your TPS, you would go into limp mode and definitely throw a CEL for out of range of dbw components. So i don't believe that's your problem providing it is set right and especially since DTC P1349 is set.
It most likely is the oil control valve, P1349 pretty much verifies this along with the misfires that usually accompany it. I would test it while the car is warming up and when it has warmed up by pulling the two wire connector and applying battery power to the two terminals. This link goes into it further but I'd be willing to bet the mesh screen is dirty or the solenoid isn't shifting right

http://my.is/forums/f115/is300-stalled-out-side-road-446675/
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I cleaned the mesh screen inside thoroughly, but nothing changed, same problems still happening.

Now I have the following codes:

P1349
P1346
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304

I will replace the OCV soon. Because I have seen some responses that some people did actually test it using the method described in your link above, and it was perfect even when the car was warm, but still had problems, and when they changed it, everything went back to normal.
 

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The tests i have posted have pretty much come from the FSM, almost word for word. Maybe those members who didn't notice a difference did not do the test right or wait till the car was fully warmed up. There should be a distinct difference when power is applied to the OCV. Download the FSM and diagnostic manual from the stickies if you don't already have them. P1346/P1349 like i mentioned is almost always the OCV, which can make your car misfire or throw a random misfire dtc. Even though the screen is clean does not mean the spool in the valve is shifting properly.
 

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Having trouble setting my aristo tb/ge tps. i swapped my old one for a polished one and moved the maf into the intercooler pipe. set the tps at .65v and it won't idle for shit. it will run if i give it gas but it sputters really bad. when i let off it will idle too slow/jerky then dies out. this is the second time i try to install this thing, first time i put my old one back on and set the tps with minimal issues. i didn't even use a volt meter that time, just moved it until it idled like i wanted it to. can't seem to find any spot this thing likes.// Today I put the old TB back on and set the TPS to .65.. started and idled fine.
 
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