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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i am currently in the process of installing my toyomoto header. I found quite a lot of instructions but i have some indepth questions:

1. How am i suppose to remove the engine ground cables?
2. How do i access the O2 sensor that is all the way in the back? Its completely out of reach.
3. As for the O2 simulator, does anyone have a picture of how it looks like when done?
4. Last of all... what tool did you guys use? Just a regular wrench?

Thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated.
 

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I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but installation of the header is difficult even for the professional.

I got mine installed by a local tuner and suggest that you do the same. Those O2 sensors break VERY easily and are expensive to replace. The local tuner even broke one, but he had to pay for it since it was his fault.

I would say that it is worth taking to someone else so that if something happens it comes out of their pocket and not yours.

If you got the header chromed then you also might have to worry about drilling out the bolt holes on the flanges (like I had to). The chrome fills in the holes a little, making this modification necessary.

Then there is the problem of fitment. Some of the headers coming out of HP Racing do not line up exactly perfect with the studs, necessitating a little elbow grease to get the header in position and flush against the head which means that you also risk breaking a stud which would be a very bad thing.

Just some things to think about...good luck.

Oh, and about your wrench question...I don't know what all will be the minimum, but I can say that in order to not get stuck on the job where you have to get the car towed to a shop or have to put back on your stock exhaust manifold, you should have a full array of professional tools available for any situation that may come up.
 

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1st take it to a reputable shop.
2nd have him install it.
3rd pay him and be happy.
Seriously though even the shop that did mine said it was a pain in the ass and had to refer me to another guy to solder the O2 sims.
Dean :x
 

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I would have to agree...
The header install was a tad difficult.

I've done many motor swaps, motor rebuilds, etc in my garage...and let me tell you...this header swap wasn't a cake walk.

The main thing that annoyed me was that the stock header only comes out from the bottom of the car...I had to put MANY wood blocks under my jacks to get the car high enough in the air to clear the header from the ground. The car was sooooo damn high in the air on these puny jacks...I was fearing for my life haha. I'll never do that again. You should seriously at least have access to a lift before attempting this job.
 

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TrustGs-R said:
I would have to agree...
The header install was a tad difficult.

I've done many motor swaps, motor rebuilds, etc in my garage...and let me tell you...this header swap wasn't a cake walk.

The main thing that annoyed me was that the stock header only comes out from the bottom of the car...I had to put MANY wood blocks under my jacks to get the car high enough in the air to clear the header from the ground. The car was sooooo damn high in the air on these puny jacks...I was fearing for my life haha. I'll never do that again. You should seriously at least have access to a lift before attempting this job.
The header will come through the top, you just have to position it correctly, but now I am going to have to drop my through the bottom so I dont have to move the blower, which will be a pain.
 

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It took 4 of to do mine. We used a lift and It took 4 hours well we took breaks and stuff 2 working with the header and other 2 of us under the car with the racepipe and the bottom of the header. Instead of taking the suspension somewhart aport we just beat the stock header on the bottom where the cat is just enough to slide it from the top and out. I thought it couldn't be done this way but mine is a 5spd so there was a lil bit more room down there as opposed to a automatic. Another tricky part was gettin the 02 sims out, my car only had a few thousand miles on it and they were still a pain in the ass. If your doing with some friends expect it to take some time man

Hope that helps some man

Justin
 

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VVTIS said:
TrustGs-R said:
I would have to agree...
The header install was a tad difficult.

I've done many motor swaps, motor rebuilds, etc in my garage...and let me tell you...this header swap wasn't a cake walk.

The main thing that annoyed me was that the stock header only comes out from the bottom of the car...I had to put MANY wood blocks under my jacks to get the car high enough in the air to clear the header from the ground. The car was sooooo damn high in the air on these puny jacks...I was fearing for my life haha. I'll never do that again. You should seriously at least have access to a lift before attempting this job.
The header will come through the top, you just have to position it correctly, but now I am going to have to drop my through the bottom so I dont have to move the blower, which will be a pain.
What VVTIS said, I was able to pull the stock manifold from the top. I did however almost damaged the OS2 sensors so becareful. my Pro-1 Headers were easy to slide in from the top. however you may need an extra hand to position the header against the block, then hand tighten the nuts.
 

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i see....i thought i struggled with it for at least 30 minutes trying to get it out from the top...then i remembered reading that u have to go through the bottom on the is300.net xerd header write up. So I went for the bottom route. That's great you guys were able to get it from the top!

You can definitely get the toyo header in and out through the top with ease...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the reply guys, I don't have any one to help me as of now. I managed to get all the nuts and O2 sensors off but the STOCK MANIFOLD IS A BITCH!! I tried to take it out from the top but it seems like its stuck on something on the bottom. Can anyone elaborate what is the correct way to twist it to get it out from the top? Would you recommend pulling from the top more or bottom more?

I have an AUTO...
 

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When I installed mine, I had some help of a lift, the bottom will look like it got stuck, but when you look at it from the bottom there is nothing blocking it, I suggest that you have someone underneth pushing out and someone pulling out, it's a whole lot easier with two people :wink: It took us about 2 1/2 hours to get out and only 12 dollars for the install, minus lunch of course :wink:
 

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Remove the throdel body, and it will slide out like butter. I did it alone in 1 1/2 hour when installing my Xerd header.

ALSO, take my word on this use WD40 spray the shit out of the 02 sensors and let it sit for 10/15 minutes and they will come out useing your hands without tools, if you uise force and power you will strip them. LISTEN TO THIS!!! you dont want to pay 500 bucks for new sensors, like I had to do.
 

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Never installed headers before and i got mine done in about 2 hours.
1.Remove the two O2 sensors on the side.(leave the rear one by the firewall in to come out with stock unit.)
2.Remove headerbolts
3.Remove Y-pipe
4.Remove Y-pipe sensor (I left mine haning there then reinstalled it.)
5.Remove grounding wire from engine block.(same size socket as headerbolts)
6. Now here is the tricky part of massaging the header out. Pull up the front & then twords you. Just keep checking where its getting stuck and
jiggle it around while you pull. (just remeber to be jentle with the other components in your engine.)

Hope everything come out ok.

P.S Retorqe your bolts the next day and keep checking up on the once in a while. :wink:
 

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Aznmojo said:
Can someone specify what "engine ground cable" i am suppose to remove? Is it the mess of metal housed wires near the right side of the car?
It is a single black 8 gauge ( good sized) wire connected to the engine via a metal bracket witch is connected with a 13 or 14 standerd sized socket. If you count from the front of the car to the back it will be under or near the 4th piston. I have taken the header out with this cable on before but its a pain in the ass, so its to your benifit to remove this cable. And remember everything gets removed and installed from the top. :crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the help... i still have one more question about the O2 simulator. Was i suppose to connect the blue wire to the O2 sensor side or to the long wire that leads to the car? I read someone's direction but it kind of contradicts with the one from toyomoto. Also, was the white wire suppose to connect to the adapter side or the wire side?
 

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2 Simulator Install:

1)Disconnect Neg. cable

2)Locate upper stock O2 connector in the engine bay, behind the water pump. upper connector. There are 2 so use the upper one. Look at the wires on the harness side of the connector. Should be A)Grn/Blk B)White C)Brown D)Blk/Red.

3)Connect, NOT CUT, Black Simulator wire to the Black/Red O2 wire.

4)Connect, NOT CUT, Brown Simulator wire to the Brown O2 wire.

5)CUT the White O2 wire and connect to the harness side, White wire.

6)You Should have a long Blue wire left on the O2 Simulator. The rear O2 sensor on the "Y" pipe, find the Blue wire off the last O2 sensor and CUT it. Now connect the long Blue wire to the harness side of the blue wire.

7)Check all connection and find a nice place for the black box.

Connect Neg. cable and turn key to the 3RD position and check LED's on the box, one should be a solid RED and the other should blink slowly.
 

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The Toyo Header install was tricky, but I wouldn't call it impossible. If you really haven't done much engine work before though, pony up the dough and pay for the shit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
YES I AM DONE!! Thanks for everything guys... the car runs and sounds great. Its not loud inside the car but it is MONSTROUS outside of the car. I got some rattling going on but i will deal with that SOME OTHER DAY. All this crap took me like 7 hrs!!! But it's ok, i enjoyed every second of it... once again thanks to everyone that helped!
 
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