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I just bought a set of L-tuned / Eibach Sway Bars. I am pending to install it by myself. I would be appreciated if anyone could let me know the torque spec for the nuts & bolts for the spray.

Since I bought it used from another .net member. The installation guide said I need to lube the bushing. Can I use silicon spray or use the almighty WD40?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best Regards,
Al7ezza
 

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the bushing bracket bolts are 13 lb-ft

the endlink bolts for the front are 48 lb-ft (off the top of my head)

the endlink bolts for the rear are 33 lb-ft. (again, off the top of my head)

you can search in the archives to verify my torque numbers, or hopefully someone will post...

use some marine grease or lithium grease.. not sure about silicon or whatever, but don't use WD40 as it will eat away at the bushing.

here's a little trick, wrap the bar in some teflon (plumbing) tape where it contacts the bushing. this prevents squeaking (one year later with my TRD yellows and still no squeaking)..

hope this helps, and CAN I GET SOME DOTS?!!?
 

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al7ezza said:
I just bought a set of L-tuned / Eibach Sway Bars. I am pending to install it by myself. I would be appreciated if anyone could let me know the torque spec for the nuts & bolts for the spray.

Since I bought it used from another .net member. The installation guide said I need to lube the bushing. Can I use silicon spray or use the almighty WD40?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best Regards,
Al7ezza
Here's something I posted a while back. Since you have used stuff, use teflon tape or thick marine grade grease.

I finally ordered the Ltuned sways and got them put on today. 2 thumbs up. A definite improvement in handling, if not a total slot car. As others have said, this is the way it should have been from the factory. For reference, I still have stock springs and shocks.

Anyway, as for my tips for install, after removing the undertray with it's 10,000 10mm screws, the "pesky bolts" (end links) are not so pesky with some penetrating oil and a 5mm allen wrench to hold the inside of the stud on the swivel joint and a 14mm box wrench to remove the nut. Take the endlinks loose before the middle brackets. I did not remove any wheels or the plastic bracket that is identified in the instruction in the "Column" section of this website. To get the front sway out once it is disconnected, I dropped the passenger end of the bar down about 10 inches and moved the passenger end towards the front about 10 inches. I could then spin the bar about 180 degrees which allowed me to fish it out from behind the hose that hanges down on the drivers side. To install the new one, just reverse the process (after lubing up the bushings). Once the front bar is in place, put the endlink studs through the holes in the bar and just put the nuts on enough so that they are fully engadged. This will help you hold the bar up while you get the middle brakets on and start the bracket bolts. With all the bolts and nuts started, but still loose, make sure the bar is centered left to right. Tighten all the bolts on the brackets, alternating from the front to rear to get an even draw down on the bushings. I tightened to 13 ft lbs for both front and rear bar. I tightened the end link nuts with a box end wrech, using a 5mm allen wrench to hold the stud. I then Torqued the end link nut to 36 ft lbs on the front bar, 33 on the rear (those were the only torque specs I found in a search, so I hope they are correct). To torque the end links and to keep the stud from spinning, I used a pair of needle nosed vice grips to hold the thin flange on the stud, right next to the bar.

For tools, I would recommend:

14mm box wrench
14mm socket
12mm socket, extension may help
10mm socket, ratchet or nut driver
5mm allen wrech
Torque wrench
Cordless screwdriver with nut driver adapter for the undertray screws is a nice option.

I did have the luxury of a lift. With 2 of us, it took about 1.5 hours, taking our time. We were in my friend's, friend's shop, so we wasted some time searching for tools. If we had to do a second car, with the tools all laid out, once the car is airborn, we could do both bars in probably 30 minutes total, probably even less.

A lot of this is redundant with other peoples tips, but hopefully this will help a couple people.
 
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