^^ The Gen 1.5 makes it so service is much easier to perform, so it depends on if its a simple board component, board replacement or other issue.
TokenSolutions PNP O2 Delete Installed, CEL+Trac Off Blinking
I installed the tokensolutions plug and play O2 delete for my '03 just this past weekend, today while driving, the CEL turns on and the trac off light starts blinking... I configured the unit correctly for '01-'03 and the green LED inside is blinking when the car is on. I plug in my OBD2 reader and it says both of the cats are below efficiency, P0420 and P0430. What's going on?! I thought this was the end-all solution to the damn cats! I need to get this car to pass emissions this weekend or else I'm facing some hefty fines. I have the original sensors plugged back in for now.
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OK I got your unit in and someone had opened it up and configured it for 04+. The high you measured does not add up to the high I'm getting, these are very accurate buggers. I use a PNP bench tester (has the female plugs) and a Fluke.
When ordering the sim, the drop down payment menu has you select pre-configured for 01-03, 04+, and MKIV. It was shipped out as an 01-03, but re-configured for an 04+ by looking at the board.
My apologies if the configuration DIY in the other forum was confusing. I would have the DIY on this board too but I don't want to over-step my bounds, there is a touchy vendor here, that will even lie to achieve an ends. I can configure it back for an 01-03 if you like. LMK.
When ordering the sim, the drop down payment menu has you select pre-configured for 01-03, 04+, and MKIV. It was shipped out as an 01-03, but re-configured for an 04+ by looking at the board.
My apologies if the configuration DIY in the other forum was confusing. I would have the DIY on this board too but I don't want to over-step my bounds, there is a touchy vendor here, that will even lie to achieve an ends. I can configure it back for an 01-03 if you like. LMK.
I bought it configured '01-'03, I'm the one who configured it to '04+ after you told me to try it.
In our emails, you said that this unit could have been an early unit so I might have to try the '04 configuration. So I got out my soldering iron and swapped it to '04+
Both configurations, '01-'03 and '04+ gave me P0420 and P0430 after the readiness monitors were done going through their cycles. Just the '04+ config made the error pop up quicker. Right now I'm on stock sensors, and I'm only getting P0430, the reason I bought the O2 sim in the first place.
In our emails, you said that this unit could have been an early unit so I might have to try the '04 configuration. So I got out my soldering iron and swapped it to '04+
Both configurations, '01-'03 and '04+ gave me P0420 and P0430 after the readiness monitors were done going through their cycles. Just the '04+ config made the error pop up quicker. Right now I'm on stock sensors, and I'm only getting P0430, the reason I bought the O2 sim in the first place.
Duh! Explains alot, having eaten launch yet. Got your part in and started crackin on it. Stock sensors and stock exhaust?
Yep, my car is 100% stock right now. Zero modifications whatsoever. I just think the stock cat on the exhaust manifold isn't working as well as before. I replaced all O2 sensors yesterday and today the CEL turned on again, so it has to be the cat.Duh! Explains alot, having eaten launch yet. Got your part in and started crackin on it. Stock sensors and stock exhaust?
That's weird that it's working fine, what do you suggest I do now?
Could you send me a different unit for peace of mind? I just don't want to deal with this again if for some reason I get the same error from the same unit.
^^ That introduces a lot more variables, and I grew suspect to this.
The unit and wiring in short has been made to reduce variables as much as possible. The circuit is processor bases, the wires shielded. The output the unit is showing is tip-top.
Onto the much more likely cause, WIRING. Check your ECU box, I'd bet the previous owner has had exhaust and a sim on there, its been yanked and the wiring fubbed ever since.
Since this unit is PNP and not wired in at the ECU like the 'chip' version offered, your relying on the OE wiring harness to be intact and operating correctly.
Having bought a new sensor and the highly unlikely chance of a burnt up cat (hardly an N/A peeps have this issue, just FI peeps) makes the ECU wiring harness very suspect.
IMO the best thing to do now is thoroughly inspect your wiring harness, even outside the ECU, and in. There is a lot of wiring involved outside the ECU and it may be short of impossible to find the culprit. Do you know the history of the car? Was it bought from family or friend?
The unit and wiring in short has been made to reduce variables as much as possible. The circuit is processor bases, the wires shielded. The output the unit is showing is tip-top.
Onto the much more likely cause, WIRING. Check your ECU box, I'd bet the previous owner has had exhaust and a sim on there, its been yanked and the wiring fubbed ever since.
Since this unit is PNP and not wired in at the ECU like the 'chip' version offered, your relying on the OE wiring harness to be intact and operating correctly.
Having bought a new sensor and the highly unlikely chance of a burnt up cat (hardly an N/A peeps have this issue, just FI peeps) makes the ECU wiring harness very suspect.
IMO the best thing to do now is thoroughly inspect your wiring harness, even outside the ECU, and in. There is a lot of wiring involved outside the ECU and it may be short of impossible to find the culprit. Do you know the history of the car? Was it bought from family or friend?
Just opened the ECU box, everything seems perfectly intact, all fuses are good as well, just checked. Doesn't look like it's been opened in a while if at all.
My mom's car, a 2003 Toyota Matrix, all stock, but we replaced the pipe with the two cats on it three or four times already, she is the epitome of a granny driver, but that car would always get a CEL right before inspection time. I guess it's rare for the cats to die on a stock NA, but it's definitely not impossible.
My mom's car, a 2003 Toyota Matrix, all stock, but we replaced the pipe with the two cats on it three or four times already, she is the epitome of a granny driver, but that car would always get a CEL right before inspection time. I guess it's rare for the cats to die on a stock NA, but it's definitely not impossible.
Thats called Lemon Law, and/or the gas you use is bad stuff.My mom's car, a 2003 Toyota Matrix, all stock, but we replaced the pipe with the two cats on it three or four times already
What is the history of your car? The OE ECU harness has tape from the factory, so two or even four taped up wires of a sim un-install can blend in perfectly, the the connection inside that tape can be horrid. For instance on kaizojce's magazine covered car i did work in the ECU wiring that is 100% stealth, one would have to trace the pins, trace the wiring, pull the OE looking tape off (OE has tape to keep the strands together) and pull them out of the strands of wire to see what was done. I will send you the 02+ ECU pinout (and 'chip' style install) so you can isolate the o2 wires to give them a good inspection.
Here is a link to a 'chip' style sim install .net DIY install to further assist.
There are the factory freaks, the unknowingly Katrina salvage, or plain ole' covered up shoulda-been salvage etc etc that makes for a gremlin that sending out another unit does nothing for. Hence the bench tester to ensure the timing and highs/lows are within spec. Your car being used and having issue with a new sensor, and then even with a sim is much more indicative of a wiring issue than a bad cat+ bad sim issue. Its the nature of trouble shooting, right now all of the variables have not been eliminated, so we can only go on probability, and that right now points to wiring.
That's what I did when I checked the wiring, I removed all of the electrical tape I could see and it seemed good to me (and I managed to lose two of the three ECU box screws...).Thats called Lemon Law, and/or the gas you use is bad stuff.
What is the history of your car? The OE ECU harness has tape from the factory, so two or even four taped up wires of a sim un-install can blend in perfectly, the the connection inside that tape can be horid. I will send you the 02+ ECU pinout (and 'chip' style install) so you can isolate the o2 wires to give them a good inspection.
There are the factory freaks, the unknowingly Katrina salvage, or plain ole' covered up shoulda-been salvage etc etc that makes for a gremlin that sending out another unit does nothing for. Hence the bench tester to ensure the timing and highs/lows are within spec. Your car being used and having issue with a new sensor, and then even with a sim is much more indicative of a wiring issue than a bad cat+ bad sim issue. Its the nature of trouble shooting, right now all of the variables have not been eliminated, so we can only go on probability, and that right now points to wiring.
So you suggest I should try the chip style O2 sensor sim? If you think that'll work, I'll try it, I'll do whatever to pass inspections right now, but in the end, I'd rather stay with the PNP sim.
^^ If you could get continuity checks and there is a fail, then the chip style would be better. If it all passes, then the algorithm that works for all the other IS300s (short of one mentioned later) does not work on yours, and I would have to send various ones out to see what doesn't throw a code, if that really is the issue.
Again with your car, what are the odds that your cat is bad so the new sensor still threw the code, then the sim that passed the bench with flying colors is also bad vs. somewhere in your feet and feet and feet of OE wiring there is a fault?
If you can get a multimeter and run continuity checks from connector to ECU (plugs un-plugged) that would be one step towards issolating that (not just the 02-in wire, but the three other wires).
There is only ONE other IS here that more than one sim has not worked on, Nyke's.
He is a Lexus Tech and STILL we both have not been able to crack it, and I'm customizing a sim in an attempt to get it to work for just his car.
Again with your car, what are the odds that your cat is bad so the new sensor still threw the code, then the sim that passed the bench with flying colors is also bad vs. somewhere in your feet and feet and feet of OE wiring there is a fault?
If you can get a multimeter and run continuity checks from connector to ECU (plugs un-plugged) that would be one step towards issolating that (not just the 02-in wire, but the three other wires).
There is only ONE other IS here that more than one sim has not worked on, Nyke's.
He is a Lexus Tech and STILL we both have not been able to crack it, and I'm customizing a sim in an attempt to get it to work for just his car.
Just broke out my Fluke 77 from 15 years ago, B1S2 continuity is 100%, B2S2 continuity is 100%, I didn't test the heater wires yet though.^^ If you could get continuity checks and there is a fail, then the chip style would be better. If it all passes, then the algorithm that works for all the other IS300s (short of one mentioned later) does not work on yours, and I would have to send various ones out to see what doesn't throw a code, if that really is the issue.
Again with your car, what are the odds that your cat is bad so the new sensor still threw the code, then the sim that passed the bench with flying colors is also bad vs. somewhere in your feet and feet and feet of OE wiring there is a fault?
If you can get a multimeter and run continuity checks from connector to ECU (plugs un-plugged) that would be one step towards issolating that (not just the 02-in wire, but the three other wires).
There is only ONE other IS here that more than one sim has not worked on, Nyke's.
He is a Lexus Tech and STILL we both have not been able to crack it, and I'm customizing a sim in an attempt to get it to work for just his car.
That would really really suck if I have the same case as Nyke's. I couldn't get any more unlucky.
Check also to see if power is sent to B1S2. But heater codes come on faster than o2 codes, so it looks like it is the sequence.
I'm will send out another PNP for piece of mind, or you can go with the 'chip' style and I can refund the rest-- in fact I will send you the 'new' chip style and the older one at the same price adjustment just to be crazy thorough in all of this. There will be a delay for the PNP as the new batch of boards are still on their way in.
There is also Leo's input of primary o2 sensor feedback, that they may be aged. IMO this would throw a primary o2 sensor CEL before a cat one, but Leo is the OBDII/O2 sensor mother f'ing God.
I'm will send out another PNP for piece of mind, or you can go with the 'chip' style and I can refund the rest-- in fact I will send you the 'new' chip style and the older one at the same price adjustment just to be crazy thorough in all of this. There will be a delay for the PNP as the new batch of boards are still on their way in.
There is also Leo's input of primary o2 sensor feedback, that they may be aged. IMO this would throw a primary o2 sensor CEL before a cat one, but Leo is the OBDII/O2 sensor mother f'ing God.
Are you sending out a different PNP unit or a chip sim? I'd rather try another PNP first since I don't want to hack up the original wire harness, and if that doesn't work then I'll try the chip.
BlacksportD has been very lenient with me and my requests. I keep pulling in a P0430 code. I checked the entire ECU harness and it works great. I even watched the live monitor on techstream for some weird ass reason I saw the bank 2 sensor go above the voltage and I have no idea why when bank 1 and bank 2 are using the same power source. So what I want to try is having the harnessed swapped. If the code comes up on bank 1 instead of bank 2 then its the sim. However.. I tested the unit myself and Shaun uses excellent quality parts. I think its my car somehow. I think we are going to try a higher resistor value. Ethier way.. if this does not work then I am just going to install an inline o2 sim and leave the other sensors in the car for the heater.
^^ for every X amount of cars, there will be the evil gremlin car, sucks!
Yeah, that brings up a point, that if it passes a continuity check, that still does not isolate if the insulation is compromised and grounding, or rubbing with a voltage source, especially with so much distance to travel. It would be best to be there live and do various tests (meter, OBDII logging etc) on both of your guy's cars(well, Nyke did a lot of testing himself, but another person on hand could help), but your both so far away. Over the internet and phone troubleshooting is hard for both parties.
Yeah, that brings up a point, that if it passes a continuity check, that still does not isolate if the insulation is compromised and grounding, or rubbing with a voltage source, especially with so much distance to travel. It would be best to be there live and do various tests (meter, OBDII logging etc) on both of your guy's cars(well, Nyke did a lot of testing himself, but another person on hand could help), but your both so far away. Over the internet and phone troubleshooting is hard for both parties.
We shall see what happens this time around, if not i am just going to opt for the o2 sims and leave the heater circuit intack. I think that will work as well.^^ for every X amount of cars, there will be the evil gremlin car, sucks!
Yeah, that brings up a point, that if it passes a continuity check, that still does not isolate if the insulation is compromised and grounding, or rubbing with a voltage source, especially with so much distance to travel. It would be best to be there live and do various tests (meter, OBDII logging etc) on both of your guy's cars(well, Nyke did a lot of testing himself, but another person on hand could help), but your both so far away. Over the internet and phone troubleshooting is hard for both parties.
^^ I got it in. When are you going to make a thread about your boost?
Well the car is really in bad shape for what I want it to be, plus everyone has so many build threads its rediculous.^^ I got it in. When are you going to make a thread about your boost?
Basically right now I have a bracket that houses the procharger c2 that was made at my old high school metal shop, i bring my car thier every one in awhile so they can make me something. it keeps them busy and out of trouble.
It was running at 8 PSI on 440c injectors with Emu. I however hate the Emu and wish I could afford stand alone. The exhaust is zerd style headers with megan and its stock from the b-pipe back. Its a slow working progress. I am taking my car to sasser exhaust customs this spring and I hope to install my BC 264's. I just however use the vehicle as a daily driver here and thier so putting in a headgasket to run more boost at this time just is not viable with my time frames. I also want to do a fuel return before i start boosting it again. Ontop of that I need a Walboro.
SO basically i still need.
Walboro
Fuel Return
Headgasket
Functional way to bypass my emission sensors!
I since then have removed the procharger (no oil lines FTW!) and reverted back to stock. I should be getting a company car soon so.. when I do then its all heads in and then maybe il make a post about my build.
Nyke,
i believe I may have a similar issue as you with my car. 2 o2 sims and both give me po136 and po156 codes. without o2 sim, i get po420 and po430. It's becoming very frustrating...
i believe I may have a similar issue as you with my car. 2 o2 sims and both give me po136 and po156 codes. without o2 sim, i get po420 and po430. It's becoming very frustrating...
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