^^ The Gen 1.5 makes it so service is much easier to perform, so it depends on if its a simple board component, board replacement or other issue.
Yep, my car is 100% stock right now. Zero modifications whatsoever. I just think the stock cat on the exhaust manifold isn't working as well as before. I replaced all O2 sensors yesterday and today the CEL turned on again, so it has to be the cat.Duh! Explains alot, having eaten launch yet. Got your part in and started crackin on it. Stock sensors and stock exhaust?
Thats called Lemon Law, and/or the gas you use is bad stuff.My mom's car, a 2003 Toyota Matrix, all stock, but we replaced the pipe with the two cats on it three or four times already
That's what I did when I checked the wiring, I removed all of the electrical tape I could see and it seemed good to me (and I managed to lose two of the three ECU box screws...).Thats called Lemon Law, and/or the gas you use is bad stuff.
What is the history of your car? The OE ECU harness has tape from the factory, so two or even four taped up wires of a sim un-install can blend in perfectly, the the connection inside that tape can be horid. I will send you the 02+ ECU pinout (and 'chip' style install) so you can isolate the o2 wires to give them a good inspection.
There are the factory freaks, the unknowingly Katrina salvage, or plain ole' covered up shoulda-been salvage etc etc that makes for a gremlin that sending out another unit does nothing for. Hence the bench tester to ensure the timing and highs/lows are within spec. Your car being used and having issue with a new sensor, and then even with a sim is much more indicative of a wiring issue than a bad cat+ bad sim issue. Its the nature of trouble shooting, right now all of the variables have not been eliminated, so we can only go on probability, and that right now points to wiring.
Just broke out my Fluke 77 from 15 years ago, B1S2 continuity is 100%, B2S2 continuity is 100%, I didn't test the heater wires yet though.^^ If you could get continuity checks and there is a fail, then the chip style would be better. If it all passes, then the algorithm that works for all the other IS300s (short of one mentioned later) does not work on yours, and I would have to send various ones out to see what doesn't throw a code, if that really is the issue.
Again with your car, what are the odds that your cat is bad so the new sensor still threw the code, then the sim that passed the bench with flying colors is also bad vs. somewhere in your feet and feet and feet of OE wiring there is a fault?
If you can get a multimeter and run continuity checks from connector to ECU (plugs un-plugged) that would be one step towards issolating that (not just the 02-in wire, but the three other wires).
There is only ONE other IS here that more than one sim has not worked on, Nyke's.
He is a Lexus Tech and STILL we both have not been able to crack it, and I'm customizing a sim in an attempt to get it to work for just his car.
We shall see what happens this time around, if not i am just going to opt for the o2 sims and leave the heater circuit intack. I think that will work as well.^^ for every X amount of cars, there will be the evil gremlin car, sucks!
Yeah, that brings up a point, that if it passes a continuity check, that still does not isolate if the insulation is compromised and grounding, or rubbing with a voltage source, especially with so much distance to travel. It would be best to be there live and do various tests (meter, OBDII logging etc) on both of your guy's cars(well, Nyke did a lot of testing himself, but another person on hand could help), but your both so far away. Over the internet and phone troubleshooting is hard for both parties.
Well the car is really in bad shape for what I want it to be, plus everyone has so many build threads its rediculous.^^ I got it in. When are you going to make a thread about your boost?