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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months ago I started an audio thread that made me realize what all was involved in replacing the rear speakers with aftermarket ones. Since then, audio is no longer a priority yet I still wanted to replace my blown rear oem speakers. Upon looking for new replacements, I wasn't pleased with the cost of what the Lexus dealers wanted, so I did some more research and came across an interesting thread from the past:

Aftermarket Rear Speaker w/Stock Amp | Page 3 | Lexus IS Forum (my.is)

In post #40, IM QUIKR brings up the idea of running aftermarket 4ohm 6x9s where the rear speakers are located for mid to high end, and then bridging both 2ohm connecters to a single sub, I was personally thinking a 6.5. Would this be a feasible option? I know I'll be limited by the stock power constraints but I felt like this way I could get better quality out of the back without spending a bunch on either new oe speakers or redoing my entire audio setup.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Could I use any set of coaxial speakers (2 way, 3 way, etc) to run as replacement? And how exactly does it work, would that speaker in the link you provided use just the 2ohm connection? So if only the 2ohm connecters were being used for a set of coaxial 6x9s, would it receive the full power that ran both of the smaller speakers in the stock setup, or just the 2ohm designated power? How is the quality on a setup like this? Thanks Solar.
 

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Could I use any set of coaxial speakers (2 way, 3 way, etc) to run as replacement? And how exactly does it work, would that speaker in the link you provided use just the 2ohm connection? So if only the 2ohm connecters were being used for a set of coaxial 6x9s, would it receive the full power that ran both of the smaller speakers in the stock setup, or just the 2ohm designated power? How is the quality on a setup like this? Thanks Solar.
To use both feeds. You would need to do some wiring to separate the component section. That way it gets a 4 ohm and a 2 ohm for the woofer part. So to speak. They will sound fund with just the 2ohm feed. You could I guess mount some more speakers for the other feed if you want. But it would take new holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
To use both feeds. You would need to do some wiring to separate the component section. That way it gets a 4 ohm and a 2 ohm for the woofer part. So to speak. They will sound fund with just the 2ohm feed. You could I guess mount some more speakers for the other feed if you want. But it would take new holes.
Okay thank you. I purchased some coaxial speakers and the adapters so they mount properly. I will report back with questions when they arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Alright well the speakers just got here. I read the instructions and looked all on the box but nowhere did it specify which wires were for the woofer or tweeter. How can I tell? Also, since I am reusing the oem harness how would I know which is the 2ohm connection and 4ohm connection?

137839
 

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If memory serves me. It is the set of wires that go through the large magnet area. Those should be for the woofer. I do not remember if you will still need the frequency filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If memory serves me. It is the set of wires that go through the large magnet area. Those should be for the woofer. I do not remember if you will still need the frequency filters.
Well I finally got the back apart and took the stock rears out. As far as reusing the oem harness goes, are the red and black wires for the woofer and the blue and grey for the tweeter?

I'm still confused on how to separate the crossover on the new speakers. Is the magnet that spiral-like copper wire? There seems to be more wires then needed as I thought I would only be splicing four for each speaker (2 for tweeter, 2 for woofer). Heres a clearer picture:

137846


Are those the two spots I'll be splicing the wires? With the red circle for the woofer and the blue for the tweeter??
 

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Can not tell from picture. You need just the wires from the woofer. Then just the tweeter wires. The cylinder pieces are frequency restrictions. Like crossovers. There was a guy on Facebook who did this. I think he show good pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Okay so I was able to do some more research today and think I may have a better way of approaching it.

137848


Using the diagram above, I came to the conclusion that the tweeter crossover is likely the blue cylinder on my speaker in the picture from my previous post. If this is true, would I be able to snip the wires right before that, wiring them to the 4ohm connection on the factory harness, and then use the 2ohm connection and just run it to the main connections that are already established on 6x9??

Edit: On second thought, I dont think that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I took the speakers to an audio shop and the guy essentially told me that in order to power the tweeter and woofer separately, he would have to take it apart because some of the wiring takes place inside of it (more positive connections than negative on outside). How do I determine which coaxials are able to have the tweeter and woofer wired separately by looking at the picture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Theoretically, (ignoring the power limitation of the stock setup) if I wanted to wire a single 4 ohm dual voice coil sub parallel as 2ohm using this wiring diagram below:

137901


And used the positive wire from one side and the negative from the other, what would I do with the remaining two wires? Would I tape them off, connect them together, or just run them to the sub as well?
 

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The diagram shows you. Dual coils have a Pos for each and a Neg for each. So input Pos to Positive on speaker on both coils and negative the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The diagram shows you. Dual coils have a Pos for each and a Neg for each. So input Pos to Positive on speaker on both coils and negative the same.
Is that the only way I could wire it, I wanted to put it in a sub box and only have two inputs (1 pos, 1 neg). Could I wire it like the diagram below? Wouldn't it be the same either way since running the wires parallel will connect all the positives to the positives and all the negatives to the negatives?
137909


The arrows point to the two terminals on the would-be sub box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There is only one pair of input wires and two coils wired to them. Not Two pairs of input wires.
I believe there is a misunderstanding. I was referring to the two sets of outputs from both of the 2ohm speaker wires that are within the stock harnesses. I was going to take the positive from one harness and the negative from the other harness and wire it to the single input on a sub box, which would then be wired to the two coils on the sub. My question was, what would I do with the extra positive and negative wire thats left over from the two harnesses? I don't know if that makes sense.
 

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I believe there is a misunderstanding. I was referring to the two sets of outputs from both of the 2ohm speaker wires that are within the stock harnesses. I was going to take the positive from one harness and the negative from the other harness and wire it to the single input on a sub box, which would then be wired to the two coils on the sub. My question was, what would I do with the extra positive and negative wire thats left over from the two harnesses? I don't know if that makes sense.
That is called bridging. The factory amp will not run like that. It will fry. Just use one set of wires from one side of the harness. Why are you trying to bridge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That is called bridging. The factory amp will not run like that. It will fry. Just use one set of wires from one side of the harness. Why are you trying to bridge?
I thought by using two channels I would get more power, no?

I was attempting to do what blkdout mentioned in post #41 in the first thread I posted, hence the dual voice coil sub:

 
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