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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
SO!
I have still not got all the pieces to make this complete. I have been calling the distributor for the past few months with no success. He contacted me when I got back into the country 7 months but since then I have been unable to get a call back. I have returned every part I have received and closing out on this.

The problems:
I have broken two of the pieces so far. Yes I know both of the reasons for breaking them were install issues.
The first was when it spun around on the very first day of I installed them. Easy fix, follow the instructions lol, needed to torque it to 74lbs for the adapter to eat into the metal.
Yep that fixed it (for the past year plus)

Second issue, it hits the swaybar bracket on the driver's side. Solution was to install in the reverse side of the swaybar alleviating the weird angles and that problem.
Yep that worked great too but brought up another issue.

Third problem, with the endlink installed on the opposite side of the swaybar and the car on a lift (body lift, tires hanging down), the link gets propped on the swaybar preventing the tires from fully hanging. You can imagine what happens to very stiff piece of aluminum, cannot bend so it snaps at the neck. It cannot hold the weight of both wheels, front brakes, control arms etc etc. But it seems only the already damaged endlink I installed on the passenger side (look at issue number two) broke, but I was unwilling to risk that.
Solution was using a nut between the link and swaybar, that worked, but I wanted a better solution (slightly longer stud in the top/swaybar section with a real spacer).
That is where I lost contact with the distributor.

I have waaay too much on my plate now to keep chasing him down so my calls have dropped to once a month with nothing from him, now I digress.

Now on to some things I have found:
The VXB heim links that someone here suggested are complete crap for endlinks!. The tolerances in them are soo off, they pop and worse noise than the stock pieces.
I will recommend Aurora if you go that route. I will have most of the specs for that setup if you wanna PM me in a week or two.

So sorry about that guys, I am out of this game. The links were great, but the service might not be so great.


Beginning:
Ok since the last one did not go so well, I am starting a new thread. I am copying what I wrote at the end of the last thread and just have this as a new beginning cos I have a lot of hope for this one.

Ok guys I started this mess, and I have tried a couple of ideas myself and I will have to agree with somguy2u and Inspar8r.

Someguy2u, yes you are right, shortening the shaft is really all that is needed to fix our issue cos the stock endlinks do work great for what the are. They are just as strong if not stronger than the heim-linked ones even the teflon lined ones. Also they have the luxury of lasting longer in bad weather since they are isolated.

Inspar8r guy, you are right, eventually the teflon lining will deteriorate and you will have noise again.

For those who want a pre-fabbed alternative:
Once again I am back with another solution that I think will really work this time. I have contacted the manufacturer and I have the go ahead. I will be making them for the front and rears. It will have a grease filled head much like the stock ones, but will be stronger and adjustable for when you lower your car or go stock. it will look something like this:

No the red pieces will not be a part of it, just the endlink itself.

So all you will need to do is to adjust it will both sides are perpendicular to the shaft (ie not pointing down or up like the stock ones do with lower springs). Viola, problem solved.

I will keep up on this one. Also I will NOT be taking deposits or anything like that. When they become available, I will simply offer it for sale probably through the forum store.
Just say AYE if you are truly interested still, so I have an idea what to tell the manufacturer when asked for a initial run quantity.

Sorry about this mess, hopefully Brandon can at least refund people's deposits back.

One more thing......will you guys be willing to pay extra for the aluminum version (just as strong, no chance of rust)?

The stock one can and does rust, but obviously it still lasts as long as you don't lower the car a lot. Check this out



Now here are some pics of the endlink installed and with the tires loaded (ie not hanging, makes a huge difference on how it works)

 

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Kponti

Are those powergrid/THK parts?

From what I know they come with a good pedigree.

I'd be down for some when the OEM ones I just bought wear out.
 

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My biggest question:

Have they been tested, for how long and under what driving conditions and climate conditions?

I won't buy anything that has not been tested for 1 year, just because of how prone to deterioration these things are in.

PM'd you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kponti

Are those powergrid/THK parts?

From what I know they come with a good pedigree.

I'd be down for some when the OEM ones I just bought wear out.
Yes they are, but not the usual heads....read down for a lil more explanation
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My biggest question:

Have they been tested, for how long and under what driving conditions and climate conditions?

I won't buy anything that has not been tested for 1 year, just because of how prone to deterioration these things are in.

PM'd you.
They will be tested for sure. I will try the first set out for a while before I put them up for sale.

Here is what I know of these particular joints, they are OEM Corvette head/joint. These aren't the ones offered on their website since the ones on the site do not have the lining on the inside of the ball bearing. So just check all the Corvette C5 and up for testing results lol
 

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sweet. I'm down.
 

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I have hope!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
do you have an estimate on cost? and eta?
Cost will be less than $250.00 a pair/fronts, for sure. The rear might even be less than that. Just how much less for each pair? I do not know yet.

Unfurtunately since these pieces are used in Porsche's, Corvette's and BMWs, the price reflects it. But I believe they will be worth the price. The particular piece I am sourcing is from the 997 Porsche (Carreras, GT3, Turbo etc etc) modified to fit the IS300 perfectly. The main testing I will be doing is to make sure the fit is as accurate as needed. The parts themselves are off the shelf and are being used in a lot of cars already.

Ok so on eta, I will be getting the first set installed this week.
Once the pieces needed to make it fit are mass machined, we will be looking at a couple of weeks after that. Lets just say 3-4weeks from now I can start taking orders if everything works w/o a hitch.
 

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might be down for this. getting the clunking noise now. redoing rotors this weekend so i am going to see if i can just tighten my current endlinks while the car is on jacks and see if this fixes my problem first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok parts came in and now I am convinced it will work great without a hitch.

The stock angles are so messed up ie not only is it angled up and down in a weird way, it is also off in the left to right angle.

With the way the my endlinks are, it will fit perfectly and reduce that both horizontally and vertically back to stock levels and thus no noises.

Will take pics of my car and another car (stock) so you can see what I am talking about. The parts will be installed this weekend.
 

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shhweeet. looking forward to some pics and results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes parts are in, I was going to install yesterday but the lower bolt kicked my ass. I could not break that stock bolt to save my life lol. Will need to get it to a shop with air tools to break those bolts.

In the meantime, I have some some pics of the retarded angle the stock endlink is with any kind of lowering. I will be posting them soon
 
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