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hey guys, no doubt we all know the is300 is arguably the best stock audio system out there, but eveyrone knows its missing good bass and so i'm interested in gettin some subs. i've looked over prices and concluded i'm gonna go either w/ two 8 in sony xplods w/ a sony 2channel amp or two pioneer subs w/ a 2 channel pioneer amp? disagree, agree, more suggestions? price value quality, anyone got good comments? or do i just need a mono amp w/ one sub? thanx guys.

[This message has been edited by L-TuNeD*IS300* (edited October 14, 2000).]
 

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I went with a Pioneer free-air 10" Sub and a 100W Pioneer speaker level driven bridged amp.

The stock system already has some good bass, so I figured an extra 100W would pump it up "enough". I considered an Infiniti "perfect" Sub, but decided to spend a little less and went with all Pioneer. Also, I am getting amp power via the rear cigarette lighter source, so its (approx) 10amp rating limits how beefy an AMP I can run.

One 10" is the biggest thing that will fit nicely in front of the trunk pass through hole.

I will post some pictures soon.
 

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Originally posted by TEG:
I went with a Pioneer free-air 10" Sub and a 100W Pioneer speaker level driven bridged amp.

The stock system already has some good bass, so I figured an extra 100W would pump it up "enough". I considered an Infiniti "perfect" Sub, but decided to spend a little less and went with all Pioneer. Also, I am getting amp power via the rear cigarette lighter source, so its (approx) 10amp rating limits how beefy an AMP I can run.

One 10" is the biggest thing that will fit nicely in front of the trunk pass through hole.

I will post some pictures soon.
What kind of coin are we talking about here Teg, and is there really a big difference?
 

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I am using the rear speaker output as input to my amp. I am using the outer (larger) 6x9 speaker element signal in the rear since (I assume) that it is aready crossed over somewhat for the lows.

Anyways - here was my order receipt:

Name Code
Qty Each Options

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pioneer GM-X332 35W X 2 Car Amp Pioneer GM-X332
- CF 1 129.95
Pioneer Car 10 inch Free-Air Component Subwoofer TSW253F
1 63.00

Subtotal 192.95

I think the Infinit "Perfect" 10" sub I was thinking about was around $250 just for the speaker itself.

You can easily spend $1000 if you want more power and top of the line equipment.
 

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Here is a link to a post in the Interior/Exterior Mod forum about the subwoofer system I just added --> Subwoofer Installed and Lovin' it!

Do a search for a post in this forum by HackerBenny with full instructions and notes about how to install a sub with the stock audio system.

Have fun...
Rob

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2001 IS300
Spectra Blue Mica/Ivory
LS, LD, HH, SR, 17" wheels
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
4.7L, QuadraDrive, UpCountry
Patriot Blue, Fully loaded

[This message has been edited by MNSpectraBlueIS (edited October 14, 2000).]
 

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Originally posted by TEG:
I am using the rear speaker output as input to my amp. I am using the outer (larger) 6x9 speaker element signal in the rear since (I assume) that it is aready crossed over somewhat for the lows.
TEG, what did you do to go back to the speakers from the amp? Did you take the signal off the rear speakers simultaneously? That would lower the load to the headunit/amp to at least 2ohms or lower, wouldn't it?


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Tony
'01 Spectra Blue
'94 Turbo Miata
 

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nice teg =)

the m3's stock system sucks like hell so i'm going with the following upgrades son as i save up my money(i do havea job.
)

front speakers - MB Quart PKC 113 5.25
amp - PPI 4200.2
sub - alumapro alchemy 12" DVC
head unit - nakamichi 35cdz

the estimated price for parts is just under 1500 and labor is gonna be more than that
what a pain

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1997 5-speed Alpine White M3 Coupe
 

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I just ran in parallel with the outer rear speaker. I (perhaps mistakenly) assumed that the speaker level inputs on my Pioneer amp didn't add much of a load on the outputs of the factory amp.

I did a test where I was running the stock system with no add-on, then connected (by hand) the subwoofer amp (even though it was off) to see if it had any effect. I couldn't "hear" any difference, so it doesn't seem to have any major drastic effect on the rear speaker output, but you might be right that I am making the stock amp work a litter harder to get the input signal to my subwoofer amp.
 

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Since the WebMaster mentioned it, you are making your stock amp work real hard if you tap the high-level speaker outputs. I tapped the front left and right speakers and had them hooked up to a 425 RMS MTX amp. When I turned the volume dial to 12 within 10 minutes, my stock amp would overheat and shut off. If this happens you might have to reset it by shorting the 12 volt accessory and 12 volt constant. This is a real bummmer as it requires you to take out the stock amp. I talked to some guy at Circuit City about this and he said that there must be feedback from the MTX amp causing the stock amp to overheat. He suggested getting converters that'll turn the speaker level outputs to RCA inputs. I'm going to try that out, I'll let you guys know how that goes.
 

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I have been running my system all week long cranked to 12'oclock (vertical volume control) with pumping bass and no amp problems...

Maybe the speaker inputs on this Pioneer amp don't put too much of a load...
 

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i definitely think the head unit is way more than adequate. the system overall could use a little more oopmh in the form of a sub or a tube. i was thinkin of either gettin a kicker substation or a powered bazooka tube. possibly two. ive grown out of the boomin system era (i used to have a 98 integ w/ FOUR 10"s) the stock system maintains the mids and highs cleanly at high volume levels, but could use some more bass like i said. i like the armrest thing TEG did. ingenious. kudos on such a clean job. but for the time being i will be runnin around with the stock system. like i always say, "if it aint broke, dont break it!".

mike
 
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