Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 128 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have ANY tips???

I checked the vaccuum lines, the fuel pump, the injectors, everything I can think of. It just friggin dies.

Could it be the throttle wire connection to the ECU? No engine lights come up.

I'm starting to think this whole thing was a bad idea...haven't had a car in a week...ugh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
don't laugh, but is this something auto zone or pep boys would have that could check??? one of those free-to-borrow tool type things?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
I'm pretty sure the auto zone thing is just a code reader.. and if your not throwing a code then it would be of no help.. i could be wrong though :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,548 Posts
mattssi said:
don't laugh, but is this something auto zone or pep boys would have that could check??? one of those free-to-borrow tool type things?
you have the turbo kit installed I take it?

If so, do you have a boost guage? check your vacuum at idle, should be around 18inHg. Anywhere between 16-20 is normal.

If that's not an issue, check your fuel pressure. If you don't have a guage, look at the end of the fuel rail, on the firewall end, there's a a clear/whiteish cap on top of a dampner, there's a little phillips head screw in the middle, that will pop up when you have pressure. (A little trick Mike from PLP showed me).

Douple/triple check your intake and vacuum connections, wiring, etc...
Have you called SRT to ask if they have any suggestions?

Good luck, let us know whats up.


Kane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah.

The damper is what I hope the problem is. There are 2 washer on it that were lost, and we used some washers that we found to put it on.

The new washers should be in tomorrow, and I hope to all hell that it at least helps...although there are no leaks as of now. The screw pops up, etc and seems to work fine. Still don't know if the flow is there since I think the washers are a tad to thick??

I tried every connection I can think of many times. SRT said check fuel pump, seals, injectors. We're gonna double check the ecu also..maybe its the throttle wire?? who knows.

I do have a boost gauge, its not hooked up yet since the ebc is supposed to be here any day.

I need my damn car back ;( :pissed: :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
man, I know its a lot of cash, but get some gauges. You'll drive in comfort and finding problems is so much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Just a guess but this sounds like an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. What kind of fuel management are you running? Check your MAF, if you are still running one, that sensor is very sensitive. If your kit uses a MAP, then check that as well. Check the TPS. I bet it's one of these issues causing your problem. Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
52,610 Posts
If it will idle and also run at full throttle, but nothing in between, then it's likely mass air flow sensor problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
trekster said:
Just a guess but this sounds like an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. What kind of fuel management are you running? Check your MAF, if you are still running one, that sensor is very sensitive. If your kit uses a MAP, then check that as well. Check the TPS. I bet it's one of these issues causing your problem. Good luck.
How do I check the TPS??

Its the SRT Piggy back. It uses the same wires as a safc or race-ecu, plus an additional sensor. Sensor 1 is throttle, Sensor 2 I'm not sure.

We are going to recheck these connections tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,548 Posts
mattssi said:
trekster said:
Just a guess but this sounds like an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. What kind of fuel management are you running? Check your MAF, if you are still running one, that sensor is very sensitive. If your kit uses a MAP, then check that as well. Check the TPS. I bet it's one of these issues causing your problem. Good luck.
How do I check the TPS??

Its the SRT Piggy back. It uses the same wires as a safc or race-ecu, plus an additional sensor. Sensor 1 is throttle, Sensor 2 I'm not sure.

We are going to recheck these connections tomorrow.
Might be the MAF sensor since that is used to detect load on the engine. So giving throttle may not give the ecu what it wants to see if something's wrong with the MAF connection.

Even though you lost those washers, you should still be getting plenty of flow with the other ones, as long as tey're sealing you should be fine. If the damper shows pressure, then you have fuel in the rail and at the injectors.

I also believe it's an electrical issue, not mechanical. check all your connections, and I hope you soldered them instead of crimping, saves much grief.

Does the kit come with a MAP sensor? if so, do you have a vacuum line going to it from the intake? Do you have a crank trigger sensor and wheel? if so, what do you have it gapped at? another thing might be spark plugs, they should have given you new ones with a different heat range for the higher cylinder temps, if so, what did you gap them at? should be .025"-.030", no more.

Check that stuff out.


Kane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
No MAP sensor as far as I know.

I'll check the MAF sensor and wiring.

Spark plugs did come with the kit, although instructions say to gap it to .032

I'll see what I find out.

Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
I had similar issues with the piggyback,
when you first reset your ecu with the piggyback, the car will idle like shit and not want to start..basically - I got it to start - threw it in drive and after about 15 minutes of driving the car ran fine and idled smooth - but it sounds like you cant even get it to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
apoji187 said:
I had similar issues with the piggyback,
when you first reset your ecu with the piggyback, the car will idle like sh*t and not want to start..basically - I got it to start - threw it in drive and after about 15 minutes of driving the car ran fine and idled smooth - but it sounds like you cant even get it to start.
Mine sounded like crap until I reset the ECU. Then, it seemed to start and idle fine, but now I just can't give it gas at all.


Can anything besides the 2 tubes on the wastegate be put on wrong? I know the hoses are correct...

I'm gonna cry if it doesn't drive by the weekend.
 

·
Am I Hype-R???
Joined
·
13,648 Posts
the IS has no MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor...just for reference...someone posted that up there somewhere...we have a MAF (mass air flow)...

as for the TPS...those usually are non adjustable...unless you elongate the holes...well, most of them anyway...

sorry, i know this isn't much help...just trying to increase my post count...

oh...and for those who work on carb'd cars, i was about to tell him to make sure the choke is off... :crazy:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,590 Posts
mattssi said:
apoji187 said:
I had similar issues with the piggyback,
when you first reset your ecu with the piggyback, the car will idle like sh*t and not want to start..basically - I got it to start - threw it in drive and after about 15 minutes of driving the car ran fine and idled smooth - but it sounds like you cant even get it to start.
Mine sounded like crap until I reset the ECU. Then, it seemed to start and idle fine, but now I just can't give it gas at all.


Can anything besides the 2 tubes on the wastegate be put on wrong? I know the hoses are correct...

I'm gonna cry if it doesn't drive by the weekend.
For your interest, when my turbo was installed with the piggy, and all hardware was installed, the car didn't start up easily. It had to be cranked several times (that's fine), and once it started it idled very roughly (which is normal due to the fact that the car senses all these new hardware and is "freaking out" and trying to figure things out). All this was normal, but what amazed me was that after awhile, the idle settled down and the car "purred" like a kitten (guess the computer calmed the "$hiet" down and figured things out). I hope that helps. I would suggest (if you haven't) call SRT with "step by step" description of install and results. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I've called them many times, but nothing has helped. My brother picked up the washers a little bit ago, and they are totally different from what we had on there. Hopefully that will help. He's going over there now and checking that an the ECU.

The idling is not the issue though...its the fact I can't give it any gas or it stalls. PLEASE just be a soldering mishap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,548 Posts
HyperMKIV said:
the IS has no MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor...just for reference...someone posted that up there somewhere...we have a MAF (mass air flow)...
Hyper, you should read my post closer:
Does the kit come with a MAP sensor? if so, do you have a vacuum line going to it from the intake?
I was asking IF his KIT came with a MAP sensor, I know mine did, and if you leave the hose off between it and the vacuum source, it will run the injectors at near 100% duty cycle, causing it to run like shit.

Kane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
I am running e-manage so it was was a bit easier for me figure this out than for you running piggy back but I had the same problem when I first started mine. I had to dumb down the MAF to compensate for the increased fuel pressure behind the injectors. Does the kit convert the fuel system to return or are you still running the nonreturn system? I would imagine that the piggyback would have a compensator programmed into it for this but its just a thought.
 
1 - 20 of 128 Posts
Top