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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UPDATE: 150 miles
After 150 Miles.. Still in the break in period i have discovered a few things with this set up.. Sadly i must say im starting to hear some chattering when the car idles or is in neutral :pissed: Its not a bad sound just a very faint noise like a bit louder then normal belt turning. IF your in the car you wont notice it at all.. When you step out of the car and stand 1 foot from it you can hear it slightly.. if you bend down near the front wheels you will hear churning or rotating ticking noise. but then again our engine or radiator makes so many sporatic noises at idle.. The good thing is you wont notice it at all when you drive.

Another thing i noticed is First gear will always be a bit rough or studder due to the lightened flywheel..if you give it some more gas it'll smoothen out but regardless wont feel as smooth as stock.. Every other gear however is smoother then stock Wierd.. But dont get me wrong.. its not Car jerking rough in 1st its more of that studdering you feel when you dont give enough gas through engagement.

All in all i still have no regrets going with this set up..the chattering isnt even really chattering since i hardly hear it. But im just giving a heads up to those who are anal about little noises on there cars.. If i were to compare it to a well known noise, id say it similar to the noticeability in the B&M short shifter noise with Sound dampening modifications. So it honestely is barely noticeble. The studdering however bothers me a bit but again im still only at 150 miles on the clutch and its still slipping a bit because the clutch and flywheel are still mating. I'll give another update at 300 miles.


The pre-game
At the end of June of this year I picked up my car with the clutch already slipping in every gear. The previous owner said it started slipping around the 40k mark and when he sold it to me it had about 50k on it. Avoiding replacing the clutch he just kept driving on it until it got worse, and lets not mention that he had no clue what the CDD was. So when I bought it the first thing I had to do was change the clutch and flywheel. I went to the dealer and they quoted me something ridiculous like $3,200.00 for the clutch and flywheel and labor. SO i decided to go after market. At first I was just going to go with a AM clutch and resurface the flywheel, but Lexus advised me to buy a new one for $1,200.00 because mine was not re-surfaceable due to all the heat damage of continual driving on a slipping clutch. I then did research on the Non turbo supra flywheels and found out that they will not work with our w55 tranny. Stuck in my dilemna I was not about to pay 1,200.00 for a stock flywheel, thats absurd. Why not pay half of that and get a aftermarket flywheel that will free up some rotational mass, increase acceleration and throtle response. But then I remebered, how my Fraternity brother's Civic si had a 9lbs flywheel and Stage 3 clutch drove, and I was then hesitant. Many .netters have stated they would never put in a lightened flywheel in our car dues to drivability and possible chattering. I've heard people say its the dumbest thing you can do, because the reving will shoot up so fast and fall just as fast making it inpossible to have a smooth engagement especially with a semi-race clutch that grabs vigorously. So I made sure I did some more HW to see if this was true. Jr (03intensabluebeast) had responded to one of my newbie posts and told me half the people on this forum talk from what they hear and give advise on things they have no experience on. He had a centerforce Clutch paired with a UR flywheel. JR ensured me that as long as the clutch is sprung and the flywheel is unsprung, or Vise versa, chattering would not occur. I was also then curious about the weight of the pedal, because usually AM semi race clutches are heavy as ass and engage harshly, but he said its about the same as stock weight (all depends on the pressure plate and disc), the engagement was same as stock. Taking this information i searched the entire net and found out that Unorthadox Racing and findanza are the only manufacturers with flywheels for the IS300. But the Fidanza flywheels has fitment issues, So i decided on the 11lbs aluminum unsprung Unorthadox racing flywheel. Now, i could of went centerforce clutch as well but i didnt. I researched and found horsepowerfreaks.com to have the most variety and cheapest prices for clutch kits and the flywheel. I called them up and Ron the salesmen there recommended that the best selling clutches for its price,the most reliable and the closest to stock feel is the SPEC clutches. He recommended me the stage 2 sprung kevlar disc (non puck).
Just a note** stock clutch is unsprung and stock flywheel is sprung** I went the opposite way with AM parts (Clutch sprung, Flywheel unsprung)<--prefered


Part # UNOR 061213700
$395.00 comes with the 8 replacement bolts otherwise $10 bux per bolt from lexus


Part #SPEC ST882
$519.18 comes with a pilot bearing throwout bearing and alignment tool
about 50 dollars to ship both items so total shipped was 964.18

~I also highley recommend that you go to lexus and pay $3.50 for new bolts for the pressure plate, for these bolts are one time use only and could be dangerous if you re-use them (may slip out) I ordered it from Massapequa Lexus took 2 days to get.~

These parts took about two weeks from the day i ordered them to the day i received them. This is because Unorthadox makes the flywheel for you when ordered, they do not keep them in stock.
I had the parts for a while but did not install them because i was waiting for a mechanic my friends recommended. This 19 year old kid by the name of brian is known throughout the NY area in the Supra community. Hes a mechanical genius that does everyones supras in Long island NY for way cheap. This is the way he pays for mods on his 700whp TT supra. Finally, yesterday he had time to do the clutch install out of my friends house. The Average Job takes any where from 7-10 hours. This kid did it in 6 hours. Amazed by his work and skills I was very pleased especially for the price of $300 where everywhere else wanted $600-800. When he took out the stock clutch and flywheel there was basically nothing left on the disc, basically wore down to the little circular indents on the surface, the flywheel had uneven heatmarks and looked like it was soo beatened and battered. Word of Advice... if Your clutch is slipping, DO NOT keep driving on it, it will mess up your entire flywheel and reduce the chances of you being able to resurface the thing, if that is the route you chose. Mine was completely garbage and defentely could not be resurfaced even if i wanted to. Thank god i bought the flywheel.

THE REVIEW!!
test drive
Ok so now the clutch and flywheel are in the car..Nervous as hell im thinking this clutch will grab super low and the reving will be untamable. I get in my car drop the ebrake, and as soon as i try to push down on the pedal i felt like my foot was going to fly through the floor. Holy Crap this clutch is SUPER light.. seriously its like a feather...still got a little stiffnes in it but definetely lighter then stock. I then go to rev the car..it revs slightly faster then stock. definetely more responsive but not even close to that sporatic jump in RPMs that i was expecting. So i slowly put the car in first with my newly installed B&M.. (damnn that thing is super short) and slowly engage into first... there was a little bit of studdering when engaged into gear like I was not giving enough gas but once I was off the clutch car drove smooth, every other gear were the smoothest shifts and engagements I have ever felt in my car. I come to a stop sign and I try 1st gear again. This time I wanted to see if the studdering would occur again so I decided to rev a bit higher like 2k rpm and then release.. The studdering was gone smoothest first I ever felt. The grinding point is alot lower then how it used to be but it feels solid. Brian told me the clutch should still slip a little bit until 300 miles later. The break in period is crucial for the mating of the clutch and flywheel and RPMs should be kept under 3.5k rpm with slow acceleration.He also stated if any chattering were to occur it would occur after 300 miles and not now, but he doesnt think it will. (hope it doesnt chatter). I drove around for 15 minutes and got use to the cluth and the short shifter.. The car has a entirely different feel..it still has that smooth lexus ride to it but i can feel that this clutch wants to grab hard and acceleration has improved alot. I'll give another review when I hit about 300 miles and then i'll start driving a bit harder and see how it truely performs.. Hope this review has helped all you potential clutch upgraders

-Adam
 

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Thanks for that excellent review! Let us know how it goes after you put some miles on it. +rep
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the +rep Teck...defintely will update this review.. My cars actually in the body shop today geeting painted and RMM lip and grill put on ..that'll be my next review hahaha..and also my rims are coming into today..cant wait
 

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;) EXCELLENT REVIEW. There are many of us that need this advice and in those details.
 

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Thnxs for the review.. Might get this setup when my clutch dies..
 

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good shi**...adam...gald u got the clutch put in...so u can be at the meets nex week...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys.. just trying to think if theres anything else i might need to add, feel free to ask any questions.. Nagil, yeahh hopefully my car will get outa the shop my monday..
 

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you broke it down barney style and painted purple ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks lexroll.. i think
 

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Great review man, very informative. +rep for you!
 

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good thing u decided to steer clear of lexus. They are bitchen expensive!

Hope the car moding goes well!

Fuk that's a long post!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I always hate the dealer prices..Sorry for the long post..figure it'll help those in need because i couldnt find a post that had all this info combined, just watching out for my fellow IS owners..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bump for the update up top
 
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