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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I have been trying to decide how to keep my car looking stock, have a nice good bass, and not lose my rear strut bar or access to the spare. I also had a 12in sub, so it was important that I use that, as I wanted to try to keep this pretty cheap. All of my parts were either bought from ebay or from members on here. My final price was just shy of 500 bucks, including the box, cables, buying a modified factory amp, and getting the 500/1. I will go through the steps I took.

First off, I researched how to modify the factory amp (seen here...http://my.is/forums/f103/i-successfully-added-pre-outs-stock-amp-pics-169103/index4.html)I modified my factory amp, but decided against using it, because the joints were small, and I noticed a drop in power after I did it. I unsoldered everything, and got one from a guy that does it on the side in the for sale forum.

After that, it was about 3-4 weeks of more reasearching cables, how to run cables, where to run cables, and etc. I also had to research where to get the remote wire from. I searched on here and decided that the gray wire on the factory amp is a remote, so I spliced in there. Quite a few folks use the cigarette lighter, I decided against that as I didnt want to get into my center console for just a remote wire.

Now the fun begins, I have the RCAs, all the other fuse blocks/inline blocks, and battery terminals. I am not going to bore you with how I ran the cables, I basically did what everyone else does, I run the 12v and the remote together, and the RCAs on the same side, just quite a bit lower. I really researched the RCAs, as I did not want to run RCAs on the other side of the car. I knew that engine noise is a high frequency also, and since I just was adding bass, it probably would also be filtered through my low pass filter on the JL amp.

Here are the pics of trunk/sub box.


Box before install.


Here you can see the ports, and the tube that runs the length of the box to allow for the STB.




Trunk with rear STB installed



Sub from inside the car (skipass removed)



Box installed but stuff not mounted (I drove like this for about 3 weeks and kept ripping out the remote wire around right hand turns LOL. Notice the speaker wire tied around the trunk hinge, and amp to leash the amp LOL)



Final installs with rear STB mounted




I am still not done, I need to build a panel to hide the wires, drill the wires down, and then it will be complete.

Keep in mind that I really wanted function of the rear trunk more than anything, I couldnt justify having a trunk filled with a sub box. I also did not want to have to yank it out on the side of the highway if I got a flat. The rear brace was important because I just wanted it and did not want to get rid of it. I know the sub could have been lower, but because of the size, and me wanting to lift up the rear deck, that just would not permit it from being centered in the armrest. Tell me what you think!!!


FYI here is my breakdown on parts

ItalynStylion built the box, and was awesome at it
My RCAs were KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA wires.
My power block was MTX
My ground distribution block was KnuKonceptz as well
I bought a ski pass for 10 bucks from a member so that I could return mine to stock. I will be cutting out the jacket around it, and remounting just the plastic.
I have an inline fuse block made by lightning audio
my positive battery terminal is lightning audio
I have a 1 farad cap by streetwires
jl audio 500/1
Kicker Competition CV12
I got positive, ground, and remote wire free from a friend, I believe it is all MTX.
The rear STB is Cusco.

All done, I am really happy, I have a stock looking car, great sound, and I didnt really loose any functionality in the trunk. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
 

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Wow, glad to see it turned out well. I agree, I think a board to hide the wires and stuff is needed and it will look very good.

I'm so glad that the holes lined up and the bar fit right on through. Since I wasn't able to really see the car or measure for myself I was worried that the STB pass through would be in the wrong place....it's good to see that we got it right :)
 

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Are the rear speakers removed in order to allow the sound from the ports to pass in to the cabin??

If not... there's probably a fat dip in your in-car response. A really fat dip.
 

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Nice idea. It keeps the box from moving too :)
 
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