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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well after a 1 1/2 year of down time to no time I finally had the chance to pick up my block from the machine shop. I initially want to drop GTE internals, which I did! I threw the GTE in, bolted everything back up and it was ready to go but after 3 months of not having time to put the motor back in I said wtf I don't want GTE I want forged internals.

Took the entire more apart again. Dropped the head off to get it decked, tested and have new valve seals put in. Picked up the head and then dropped of the block to get it bored 20 over, honed and decked. So far that all has been done and now I am just waiting for my rods to come in.

LOL, again! I think I might want to do some work to the head. Maybe a 3 angle and a light port/polish.

Here's a few pictures:

The block right after I had sprayed it with this really great paint Seymour Engine Paint. It is very thick and I am very pleased on how I didn't have to sand anything. I am using Clevites 77 main bearings. They are in the picture below. Getting ready to drop the cleaned crank in to plastigauge this sucka. To my luck the oil clearance was about the same on all journals.






Crank is in, torqued.


Crank in, motor flopped. Fresh paint, decked top, bore and hone. Just like new!!!



A few test fit pictures of the manifold and head. Also a shot of the billet fuel rail.



Next on the agenda:

1.Run a tap through all of the bolt holes to make sure all the threads are clean. Clean threads = More accurate torque value.

2. Once the rods come in the assembly moves on. But in the mean while I have prepped up parts to get it bead blasted and powder coated. I think the upper oil pan might get a wrinkle red powder coat. Any suggestion?

3. Check the piston rings for proper clearance.

4. Once mother nature cooperates with me and understand I need to get my car done, I will run my fuel lines. Decided to get rid of the OEM rubbers and completely do SS for both feed and return.

On order:

1. I made this mistake orginally and bought individual gaskets. I came to the comprehension that's it is alot easier to buy a gasket kit.

2. ATI dampner.

3. Oil Pump gears.
 

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Good luck on finishing the setup! Should be sick when it's running!
 

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Congrats man. I've been waiting to see a thread like this from you...long time coming!
 
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looking really good john.
good luck with everything.

Im currently building something similar ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Appreciate the up lifting comments, guys. Leo when I catch some free time I will definitely give you a call and take you on that offer. My folks are heading out on vacation for 35 days to the home land so I will be working a 10a.m to 11p.m shift for 35 days straight. LOL but that's alright I actually just finishing packing the motor on a pallet and hauling it over to my store and will work on it over there. Nothing like having a motor inside a package store right in check out counter.

Hopefully I will have more updates soon.

I intitially didn't want to make a build thread and just kinda pop out into the forum with just a "I am boosted now" thread. But I wanted to document my build and what's better to share it with the folks on this forum.

For those guys who hesitate to build a motor with their own hands, just a few words; it's easy, just take your time, read the manual, follow specifications closely, and DON'T rush yourself.
 

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Is your car a manual or auto? It's awesome having guys like you (and a lot the others who posted above me) on my.is . Keep us updated!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Just a few updates:

After having dealth with one issue I ran into another one. My first one was the rod ends wouldnt fit, so I had to get it machine down 0.0050" on each side. And now that they fit, I went on to check for clearance, and one of the ARP bolt snapped.

Here's a picture of the snapped bolt:


I got my snail also a few days ago. Test fit. ITS t60-1 .70ar hotside. Water and oil cooled.


Snap shot of the piston and rods connected also TE 575cc injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Forgot the fuel pump modding. I started off with a single walbro 255, but I think I might go dual now just in case.



P.S I also spent some time resizing the pictures in my first post. Had no clue how to do it before, hahah I just educated myself.



Also to answer some of the previous questions.

My power goal is roughly 400-430whp. But I rather have a motor that can more than less my power goal.

Nicadem, I am running on a auto. I purchased a spare tranny with 37k from a member here and shipped it out SRT for a valvebody upgrade and sprag replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Everything is looking great !!

What piston and rods you end up using ??
I am using SCAT Forged Steel H Beam rods and Probe Forged 20 Over pistons.

I intitially wanted to go with Eagles but after doing some research these rods are identical, from width, material and manufacturing process. I also wanted to just go with GTE pistons but since they only came standard size I went with Probe 20 over. All in all this combination save me a good amount of money.

Rods = $380 shipped 2nd day air
Pistons = $388 shipped
Rings were $100 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Maybe he changed his mind and is now running a Volvo 5 cylinder. :lol:
No I want to go back to a 2jz 6 cylinder. I was running a volvo 5 before the build, the volvo 5 was what initiated the build. I had a dead 6th cylinder.
 

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What did you do with the GTE internals?


Acura Vigor is 5 cylinder too, I had one and its a great little engine. Had 240,000miles on it when I sold it....off topic yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What did you do with the GTE internals?


Acura Vigor is 5 cylinder too, I had one and its a great little engine. Had 240,000miles on it when I sold it....off topic yeah.
Sold it.
 
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