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forza italia
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Discussion Starter #1
I am very sad to say that a friend and I were unable to get my springs installed :(

I might as well use this opportunity to ask some questions and learn from my mistakes.

Issue 1:

Someone posted a comment somewhere (don't remember who or where) that disconnecting the front sway bar was the hardest part of the job. We decided to start with the hardest part just in case we couldn't do it. Good decision, because it would have sucked to have finished to rears and not been able to get the front done.

Anyways, we pretty much spent the whole day trying to disconnect that swaybar and failed miserably. All that I have to show for a day of work is a stripped nut.

I pretty much used an entire can of WD40, but the nut and bolt are really rusted and joined as one. It would not budge.

How do I get it off now? I couldn't find a decent tool to remove the stripped nut. Having to hold the allen key there also doesn't help the situation. I don't really want to heat it up because there's some rubber around there and cutting it off might be difficult.

Issue 2:

I believe that in one of CEB's posts, he discusses aligning the stock strut assembly before taking it apart. What exactly am I aligning? I don't quite understand what I need to do. [I am installing the Eibachs on the stock shocks.]

Issue 3:

Torquing bolts: How do I know what the factory spec is? Where can I find this information? Is this info only available in the IS300 service manuals?

Issue 4:

I bought my springs used and they did not come with any instructions. Are they supposed to? I'm not concerned with the actual procedure as there is more than ample information on these boards, but with anything else that might be of importance that I haven't seen explicitly mentioned. For example, anything special with angles and such?


All my threads come out being very long. Sorry about that. But thanks in advance for any help!
 

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for issue 1:
swaybar removal should be a 30 minute job (front and rear).
i believe it is ONLY 6 bolts.
to pull it out, i would recommnend removing a wheel so you can "worm" it out the side.
as far as the stripped nut, go a sears or a hardware store and ask for the drill bit that is for removing stripped screws/ bolts/ etc.

sorry to hear you are having so much trouble. i dont have any experience with your other issues so...

good luck.
 

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We didn't remove my front sway for my H&R install. If I knew what we did, I would tell you, but I don't. You can PM AltezzaBob for the details, he was the brains behind the operation.
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter #5
2 JZ-GE said:
Thanks, but I've already read that and many other pages. I need some "extra help."

Lex_Dymndz said:
for issue 1:
swaybar removal should be a 30 minute job (front and rear).
i believe it is ONLY 6 bolts.
to pull it out, i would recommnend removing a wheel so you can "worm" it out the side.
as far as the stripped nut, go a sears or a hardware store and ask for the drill bit that is for removing stripped screws/ bolts/ etc.
I hear you on the 30 minute job. I've installed a swaybar with my friend on his GTI and it was a very quick job.

I don't even need to entirely remove the swaybar. I just need to disconnect it on both sides (so two bolts). Should be a quick job but we couldn't get it to budge, and it is now stripped. Since we have no experience, we really have no idea what to do when something goes wrong.

I'm going to go check out Sears.

Lex_Dymndz said:
sorry to hear you are having so much trouble. i dont have any experience with your other issues so...

good luck.
Thanks :)

the wrong tone said:
We didn't remove my front sway for my H&R install. If I knew what we did, I would tell you, but I don't. You can PM AltezzaBob for the details, he was the brains behind the operation.
Thanks. I don't need to remove the swaybar, just disconnect it at both sides. You sure you didn't do that?
 

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Podiatrist
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1. Front sway bar removal is not needed. Undo the top bolts, the bottom bolt and the 10mm brake line bracket. Turn the car to the "on" position and turn the wheel almost all the way to one side. You have to try each side. The bottom of the shock assembly should drop out. You may have to pull up on the rotor and push the rotor in a different position, but it can come out with some fiddling. I never take the front sway off.

The rest you can finger out yourself. Good luck.
 
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azzurro said:
Thanks. I don't need to remove the swaybar, just disconnect it at both sides. You sure you didn't do that?
Yes, I am 100% positive that we were unable to loosen that bastard.
 

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you don't need to undo the sway bar endlinks.
 

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SophieSleeps said:
you don't need to undo the sway bar endlinks.
You do for the rear.

Guys his problem has nothing to do with the rear so stop flinging useless install ideas he probably has. He says he is happy he didnt do the front cos he cant undo the rear sway endlinks due to rust so forget the fronts till the hard part---the rear endlink--- is done!!!

Sorry cant tell you anything except to drill is out, thats the only thing I can suggest right now
 

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yes take the wheels off each side. however you do not need to remove the sway bar. i did not when I installed my coilovers. If I remember correctly, take the wheel off, loosen the bolts on top, and the one on the bottom, make sure you disconnect any line that is connected to it, I think the brake line might be. then just pull up on the rotor and let it drop, the whole coilover assembly should just fall out. MAKE SURE YOU USE A SPRING COMPRESSOR when taking that spring off...
 

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kponti said:
You do for the rear.

Guys his problem has nothing to do with the rear so stop flinging useless install ideas he probably has. He says he is happy he didnt do the front cos he cant undo the rear sway endlinks due to rust so forget the fronts till the hard part---the rear endlink--- is done!!!

Sorry cant tell you anything except to drill is out, thats the only thing I can suggest right now
If you really read the post, he is referring to the front. The front is by far the hardest part. The rears may be rusty, as mine were, but the front was impossible. We used a ton of liquid wrench, to no avail. We are not throwing useless ideas at him. He said he was unable to undo the front endlinks, and we said you don't have to. Seems useful enough to me.
 
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Podiatrist
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Is anyone listening?

You don't need to undo any sway bar endlinks fer the front.
I can get the fronts out in about 15 min per side.
 

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Ok reread. Dude like Sophie says, forget the front sway bars all together, not needed for removal or install of spring and or shocks.

PS I appologise Sophie misread the innitial post
 

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i would unbolt the sway bar brackets so the sway doesnt have any tension when you are pulling the suspension arm down to get the strut assembly out.
 

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[QUOTE="azzuro']I hear you on the 30 minute job. I've installed a swaybar with my friend on his GTI and it was a very quick job.

I don't even need to entirely remove the swaybar. I just need to disconnect it on both sides (so two bolts). Should be a quick job but we couldn't get it to budge, and it is now stripped. Since we have no experience, we really have no idea what to do when something goes wrong.

I'm going to go check out Sears.[/QUOTE]

Are you kidding me? What kind of sway bar install was this? The rears on GTi's dont even have a sway bar since the rear suspension is a torsion bar (non independent) setup. 99% of the sway bar kits for the GTi just bolt up to the rear, and the FRONT, no way its a quick 30 minute job. Are you sure YOU did the job and on a GTi? You have to remove the engine dogbone and start to unbolt the frame mounts to snake the stock swaybar out and the new one in. I might be able to take pictures of the sway bar and show you how much of no clearance you have on it.
 

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SophieSleeps said:
Is anyone listening?

You don't need to undo any sway bar endlinks fer the front.
I can get the fronts out in about 15 min per side.

Are you listening? It is by far MUCH MORE easier to remove shock assemblies if the endlinks are disconnected. Thats a FACT.

carry on.
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter #17
SophieSleeps said:
1. Front sway bar removal is not needed. Undo the top bolts, the bottom bolt and the 10mm brake line bracket. Turn the car to the "on" position and turn the wheel almost all the way to one side. You have to try each side. The bottom of the shock assembly should drop out. You may have to pull up on the rotor and push the rotor in a different position, but it can come out with some fiddling. I never take the front sway off.
Thanks very much for the instructions. Should be no problem now.

the wrong tone said:
If you really read the post, he is referring to the front. The front is by far the hardest part. The rears may be rusty, as mine were, but the front was impossible. We used a ton of liquid wrench, to no avail. We are not throwing useless ideas at him. He said he was unable to undo the front endlinks, and we said you don't have to. Seems useful enough to me.
Thanks :)


AltezzaBob said:
Are you kidding me? What kind of sway bar install was this? The rears on GTi's dont even have a sway bar since the rear suspension is a torsion bar (non independent) setup. 99% of the sway bar kits for the GTi just bolt up to the rear, and the FRONT, no way its a quick 30 minute job. Are you sure YOU did the job and on a GTi? You have to remove the engine dogbone and start to unbolt the frame mounts to snake the stock swaybar out and the new one in. I might be able to take pictures of the sway bar and show you how much of no clearance you have on it.
The install was of a rear sway bar (Neuspeed 28mm, very nice), not a front sway bar. Obviously there was no sway bar already there because the suspension was all stock, but I never said that I removed a sway bar, nor did I mention where the sway bar was installed (front or rear). I just said that I installed one (which could mean more than one thing). Regardless, I don't even know why I mentioned that because it's not even relevant. The fact is that I can't disconnect my front sway bar because it just won't budge.



I'd like to replace that stripped bolt somehow. So basically what I need is a special drill bit for stripped nuts? Does it make a difference that you need to hold an allen key in place at the swaybar endlink?

In terms of replacing the stripped nut, I know that the original is 14mm, but threading may be an issue. Where can I find the correct replacement? Is there a standard for automobiles, or would I have to go to the dealer (some of you may think that this is a stupid question, but I have no experience with this stuff...)?
 

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sorry you had so many issues.

FOr the rears, you must jack up both sides of the car, have it on jack stands then you should be able to unbolt the sway bar easily. If you dont, you will run into issues in disconecting the end links from the sway bar. Not doing so can result in person injury from the sway being under load.

As for aligning the parts before you put them in you should mark everything with a marker and make sure everything does line up and is not crooked.

De, for the fronts, it is MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to disconnect the front end links and remove the shock assembly. If it takes you 15 min a side without remove the endlink, i could remove both shock assemblies in less then 7 minutes with the endlinks disconnected. If you dont disconnect them, have fun fiddling it out.
 

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Actually I just looked at the links and a drill is a bad idea. Since it is a nut holding it, a cutter of some sort will cut through the nut to the endlink bolt and hammer it off with a srewdriver (and hammer ofcourse lol)

But you can do the front w/o it since it will be the longest part of the install why bother? Malek is right but since you dont really have a choice here why would you go through the hassle? Wont be easier in your case.
 
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