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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Why do you not just run a relay and power lines separately. Then use the ignition switch to trigger. I think even xessive makes a kit.

If I’m understanding you correctly, the fuel pump does have it’s own relay and power connection. The relay is triggered by the original fuel pump power line, which in turn is triggered by ignition. my battery is in the trunk and the fuel pump circuit is wired directly to that. I wanted a shorter and significantly larger power line.

The Xcessive kit is $78 for some wires, a relay, and a fuse. Practically speaking, there’s nothing different between what my wiring is doing and what that kit is doing except for being $60 cheaper. I’ll probably just wired the relay to the fuel pump trigger in the Haltech likeKris suggested. I didn’t realize Haltech has a dedicated
 

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You should be able to use any of the lowside outputs - thru a relay - to turn on a fuel pump. I think Haltech calls them DPO’s. You’ll just go into the software and set up the output parameters. I’ve got mine staged on Infinity, the second pump turns on at 6psi. Prolly don’t need it, but it’s there if I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You should be able to use any of the lowside outputs - thru a relay - to turn on a fuel pump. I think Haltech calls them DPO’s. You’ll just go into the software and set up the output parameters. I’ve got mine staged on Infinity, the second pump turns on at 6psi. Prolly don’t need it, but it’s there if I did.
Yeah, I have the Haltech switching the BAP and the fuel pump speed via DPO already. I just never thought about connecting the main fuel pump relay to the Haltech as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Started to pull the old turbo manifold out. Getting those nuts on the turbine off was pretty much impossible without disassembling most of the turbo. Absolute pain to take off the nuts off exhaust flange too. I’ll might want shorter studs. The compressor still looks good as new though.
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The old turbo manifold has held up quite well, not bad for $150. I’m sure it would had held up for a few more years.
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The new log manifold came as well. Looks real nice.
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Some maniac named me chopped it in half. Here’s to hoping I can weld good enough to get this to work.
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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Got most of the manifold welded back up. I got lazy with a few steps and it ended up biting me in the ass. I started with the turbo bolted on and the manifold bolted to the car
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Tacked welded the back before switching to the flange side. This is the result after some processing with a grinder and sanding block. Not as warped as I expected.
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The exhaust flange side was a little worst. The two sides are not very co-planar but nothing a grinder and straight edge can’t fix. It still bolts to the car though so it’s not that warped.
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Next up will be chopping the wastegate area off and capping it with a plate. I was originally going to just block off the wastegate flange but welding around the small corners is a no go for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
After more weld, grind, and sand. The turbo manifold is as good as it’s gonna get for me. the exhaust flange is still slightly warped at the 2 inner mounts (cylinder 3&4). A 0.010” feeler gauge will slot right in but stops halfway through the exhaust port. Don’t have a pic of the 10 thou one but here’s a pic for visualization.
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The rest of the flange won’t pass a 0.003” feeler gauge. It’s just that one port. Hopefully it won’t leak.

The rest of the manifold isn’t pretty but it’ll work probably. The turbine housing will need some grinding to match the divided ports better.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well unfortunately I’ve ran into some fitment problems and some serviceability concerns. I’m switching to a iwg setup and that’s caused problems the manifold was never meant to deal with. I’ll be running a BW EFR turbo rather than the old BW S300.
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The gate is directly in front of the coolant return hardline. I COULD tap it for a 90 degree barb but it’ll be real close. The iwg is also really close to the runners, around 1”. While it may survive, I’m not going to take that risk. I thought there would be more adjustment range for positioning of the wastegate but the rod-flapper misalignment is too high for my taste when the gates far enough.
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Another problem which was a bigger issue is serviceability. The only way to get the turbo off the car is to take the entire turbo manifold assembly off, which requires taking off the front exhaust studs. This probably isn’t a problem on the BW airwerks since there’s only 2 clamping plates holding the turbine housing to the rest of the turbo. The entire assembly is also very heavy and leaning over the car to drag it out is not fun.

I liked the packaging the bottom mount turbo provided and with a external wastegate, it looks like a great setup. It’s was never designed with what I had in mind and it barely didn’t fit. For now, I’m just going to modify the old eBay manifold and run that instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The issue is probably just that brand manifold. Go to a Treadstone.
A Treadstone log manifold will not fit a EFR B2 frame on a sc300 which has a bigger engine bay. The manufacturer themselves can only guess as to which turbo would fit. Even if I could switched to a Treadstone, I would need to chop it in half again, and re-weld it again. That's a lot of time commitment and additional money. At that point I'd rather just weld my own manifold from scratch. Although I have scanned the engine bay already, all the layout and routing would take weeks to actually do since there's no point to half ass it when I'm that far in the deep end. It's something I plan to do at some point but not now.
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I did find myself having to switch back again to the Dodo manifold. As it turns out the cheap ebay one will just not fit at all. I would need a T4 45 degree adapter to clear the shock tower with the wastegate actuator. That also means most turbo manifolds on the market right now for the GE will also not fit my turbo. I guess that's why IWG isn't very popular with the Supra/SC300 crowd. Nothing off the shelf fits.
 

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I know you can get the SXE style compressor for the EFR turbo - some of them. Of course that deletes the integrated recirc/bov. I don’t know what that means for the IWG actuator. Have you looked into that route?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I know you can get the SXE style compressor for the EFR turbo - some of them. Of course that deletes the integrated recirc/bov. I don’t know what that means for the IWG actuator. Have you looked into that route?
Unfortunately, I got the EFR turbo specifically for the integrated bov/iwg so going away from it is not an option for me. (Less noise, more stealth. Not a fan of hearing loss) They also don’t make an SXE cover for this one.
 

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Unfortunately, I got the EFR turbo specifically for the integrated bov/iwg so going away from it is not an option for me. (Less noise, more stealth. Not a fan of hearing loss) They also don’t make an SXE cover for this one.
Well then you will not be able to use a log style more than likely. I would just change the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I might be wrong on the sxe cover. I’ve found options for it but it’s not sold separately like the ones for the 8474 or 9180. I’ve been running a dump pipe on my external wastegate. I can’t say I dislike the sound but I wish the volume was turned down a bit. I like the idea of sleepers. I’d probably wire in a fake bov to mess with people though…and by probably I mean eventually.

With regards to the car, I shoved the modified dodo racing manifold back on. The coolant return didn’t fit because the wastage actuator was in the way. With some angle grinding and some welding, it fits just fine. It has enough more than enough clearance as well.
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The wastegate actuator rod and it’s closeness to the exhaust manifold was a bit of a concern. The misalignment was 13 degree. I kind of knew it wouldn’t really be a problem but it doesn’t hurt to check with Turbosmart. They didn’t seem concerned since the actuator should handle up to 30-40 degrees of misalignment. Large range but that’s what they told me. I don’t foresee it being that high at end of stroke mostly because the misalignment will decrease with stroke so it’s quite impossible. The heat was another concern but they seemed to think it’s fine but I’ll definitely being using a heat shield.
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The down pipe is also under construction. Sticking with 3” for now. Plenty of space for a 4” downpipe which is nice. I’ll move to a 4” DP to dual 2.5” mufflers at some point.
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Don’t mind the blob of welds in the back… stick weld vs TIG. The flange to tubing is all nice but the tubing to tubing isn’t as nice. I’m sure not backpurging and welding outdoors has nothing to do with that though. I could use solar flux and that would solve the backpurging issue but this exhaust is just a steeping stone. My stick welded stainless downpipe (and not even with 1/16 but with 3/32 thick electrodes) from 2years back still works after taking a few ground hits so I doubt this will fail quickly.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Got the exhaust welded up. I reused most of the old stuff, didn’t really see a need for something new. I managed to get it done right before my gas was about to run out. I planned on getting more gas since I need to weld in a 1/4 wave resonator and a helmholtz resonator anyways but the daily might be broken yet again. 5th time this month which is great. Hopefully I didn’t shear a valve tip off again…
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I couldn’t put the old resonator back in. It made a bit of contact with the driveshaft. Just a little bit of paint but I’m not going to tempt fate a 2nd time. The 1/4 wave and helmholtz resonator should get the annoying bits down, mostly 133hz drone.
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The exhaust tip is a little low and to the left, which is the opposite of the normal boom can shooting off to the right. I’ll just say that’s on purpose I guess. The exhaust tip is the stock is300 welded to a 3” dynomax ultraflo. It’s a little hilarious how big the stock exhaust tip is.

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The downpipe is also wrapped. Layer of ceramic fiber, “titanium” basalt fiber, and a aluminum heat shield around it. The aluminum makes handling the downpipe without itching up a storm possible. The heater core hoses used to rest on the downpipe wrapped with ceramic fiber and basalt fiber. This combo is very effective and the aluminum should make it even better.

Just waiting for some turbo mounting hardware now. Switching to a2-70 stainless hardware withbird lock washers. Borg Warner uses a2-70 hardware on their turbos and the bolts were practically brand new when I unbolted them. It should be more reliable, hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Haven’t been able to do much so far. Waiting for turbo mounting hardware still. Purchased some OEM Inconel studs meant for a FD RX7. (Well actually they’re probably A286 or Incoloy 660 which is probably why people call these “Inconel”. Full race does the same thing…their “Inconel” studs are A286 ie Incoloy 660.) Also grabbed some A286 nuts from McMaster Car to complete the high temp hardware setup.

I also added some other outputs for the CAN gauge. I won’t see how smooth or completely trash it updates until the car is running again though the rpm gauge updates real nice last time I had it hooked up to the Haltech.
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In terms of car work, mostly just wiring again. I pulled the main fuse box apart. I disconnected the headlight cleaner wires, stock DBW, and fuel pump trigger. I’m know those wires are obsolete and I didn’t want to worry about shorting them to ground and the implications of that.
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I also rerouted the intercooler piping, air oil separator, and intake. It looks much more intentional now and so much cleaner. The intercooler pipe routing is suboptimal but it’ll have to do for now. I’ll have to weld something up for a nicer fit.
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hardware finally got here. The a286 nuts from McMaster Cartt is from ARP interestingly enough. ARP makes stainless turbo studs from a “300 series” metal. I’d bet it’s A286 unless these are custom made for McMaster Cartt but I doubt that. They are around grade 10.9 in strength which is far superior regular stainless hardware and retains strength up to 1100F. Good stuff.
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The M10x1.5 studs from the FD rx7 also got here. People claim it’s Inconel. People are blind it seems. That black layer sure looks and feels like a black oxide layer. it’s also slightly magnetic as is the ARP nuts. Nickel alloys with very little iron content does not really do those things. It’s most likely also A286. Not a huge deal and it’s proven oem quality vs random eBay stuff. The one Inconel 718 stud I found in m10x1.5 was $55 each so I’ll take those savings.
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The rest of the turbo hot system is mostly all in now. Have to route coolant feed and oil feed next. I’m using the coolant feed for the stock throttle body for the turbo. Perfect size and it’s already there.
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Still need to finish up some electrical stuff and route the power steering reservoir again. The turbo cold side should resolve itself fairly easy. Worst case, I’ll grab some more argon and weld up some tubing rather than stuffing the silicone couplers together. I’ll probably end up doing that anyways. It looks better and is better (imo). I do want a new air filter as well. I grabbed the first thing that fits from autozone. Not exactly high quality.
 
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