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I understand that without the o2 sim with header and y pipe setup a CEL will illuminate. My question is that will that effect the performance of the vehicle? The reason why im asking is because i know some vehicles will go into a "limp mode" when the CEL illuminates sortof like a computer going into "safe mode". Any reply will be appreciated. thanks
 

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xGxHyPxGx said:
I understand that without the o2 sim with header and y pipe setup a CEL will illuminate. My question is that will that effect the performance of the vehicle? The reason why im asking is because i know some vehicles will go into a "limp mode" when the CEL illuminates sortof like a computer going into "safe mode". Any reply will be appreciated. thanks
No, the codes that are thrown when you don't have an o2 sim do not throw the car into "limp mode".

That being said, it is HIGHLY recommended to get the sim.
 

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It definately doesn't go into safe mode. Since I've had a flaky simulator (or flaky instal) for the last year or so, I get CELs at random times and sometimes I don't clear it for a long time.

It may have subtle effects, but definately not limp mode.
 

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so aside from the annoying CEL being on all the time, is there any other negative aspects to driving around without an O2 sim?

can i install the headers, and then install the o2 sim a week/month later?

i already have the headers, straight pipe, and the o2 sim. but electrical wiring diagrams kinda wig me out. I can do the header install anytime, but i'd like to have one of my friends who are a little better with electrical stuff/soldering help me out.

also, i understand that it takes a little bit of time for the ECU to reset/readjust. if i dynoed my car a day after doing the header/straightpipe install, would it be a waste of time since the ECU might not have enough time to adjust?
 

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dasgalloway said:
The wiring is a cinch if done directly in the ECU, check sophies diagram (sticky in this forum). 2 cuts, a splice, and a ring terminal.

You shouldn't have any adverse effects to driving for a while with no sim.

thanks for the info Das. yeah, De's diagram is what i've been lookin' at for the past few days. deep down inside, i know that it's not that hard. but i'm still kinda scared.

I'm trying to see if i can make a dyno meet on saturday that some of my friends are having. after reading all of the walkthroughs, the header install seems like it should be pretty simple and straightforward. i'd rather not hurry up the o2 sim install.

but back to the other question, if the ECU hasn't had time to adjust, would dynoing the car be a waste of time?

I can do the header install on friday night, and the dyno day is on saturday afternoon.
 

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p1nk50ck said:
thanks for the info Das. yeah, De's diagram is what i've been lookin' at for the past few days. deep down inside, i know that it's not that hard. but i'm still kinda scared.

I'm trying to see if i can make a dyno meet on saturday that some of my friends are having. after reading all of the walkthroughs, the header install seems like it should be pretty simple and straightforward. i'd rather not hurry up the o2 sim install.

but back to the other question, if the ECU hasn't had time to adjust, would dynoing the car be a waste of time?

I can do the header install on friday night, and the dyno day is on saturday afternoon.
Don't worry about the car adjusting... ;)

Installing an aftermarket header is cake... it's REMOVING the OEM header that sucks if you don't do it right. I recommend a 4 ft long 2x4, which you can use to pry the entire motor towards the drivers
side fo the car... this will help immensely in getting the OEM header + cat shields past the tranny mount and engine bay walls.
 

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dasgalloway said:
Don't worry about the car adjusting... ;)

Installing an aftermarket header is cake... it's REMOVING the OEM header that sucks if you don't do it right. I recommend a 4 ft long 2x4, which you can use to pry the entire motor towards the drivers
side fo the car... this will help immensely in getting the OEM header + cat shields past the tranny mount and engine bay walls.

good info. i'll be using a lift to remove and install everything, would i still need the 2x4 :lol:

i'd give you some rep, but i've already given you some recently :(
 

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either that, or a sawzaw :)
 

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p1nk50ck said:
good info. i'll be using a lift to remove and install everything, would i still need the 2x4 :lol:

i'd give you some rep, but i've already given you some recently :(

You can take more of the car apart and bring them out the bottom with a lift, but I've never had trouble getting them out the top with my persuasion bar. :p
 

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dasgalloway said:
You can take more of the car apart and bring them out the bottom with a lift, but I've never had trouble getting them out the top with my persuasion bar. :p

alright. sounds good.

i guess i have fun things to do on friday night :)
 

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p1nk50ck said:
alright. sounds good.

i guess i have fun things to do on friday night :)
Jst remember, it's a game of finesse... the engine and car are much bigger/heavier than you, and yanking usually isn't a contest you win.

Unless, of course, you're sawzall'ing with blatant disregard for the physical integrity or future usability of the OEM parts. :lol:
 

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dasgalloway said:
Jst remember, it's a game of finesse... the engine and car are much bigger/heavier than you, and yanking usually isn't a contest you win.

Unless, of course, you're sawzall'ing with blatant disregard for the physical integrity or future usability of the OEM parts. :lol:
just ask "tpc_01" and "the wrong tone". i do go against the game and no finesse and the bigger car and engine lost to me without a prybar
 

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i can change a header in 15 minutes sometimes faster all you have to do is take your "persuasion bar" (das stole that from me the mofo lmao!) and tilt the motor to the side about an inch (it will move easy dont worry) then just pull em out from the top and slap the new one in.

On the 02 sim part i drove for 6 months without one until i got off my lazy ass and installed it in literally 5 minutes. That includes the time it took for the soldering iron to heatup
 

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U can still drive without the O2 simulator but CEL comes on n its annoying n that is y I have a O2 simulator on mines
 

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OKCIS said:
i can change a header in 15 minutes sometimes faster all you have to do is take your "persuasion bar" (das stole that from me the mofo lmao!) and tilt the motor to the side about an inch (it will move easy dont worry) then just pull em out from the top and slap the new one in.

On the 02 sim part i drove for 6 months without one until i got off my lazy ass and installed it in literally 5 minutes. That includes the time it took for the soldering iron to heatup
Holy shita....this should be a contest in the Book of World Records. Damn. Fook time and patience!!:)
 

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AltezzaBob said:
just ask "tpc_01" and "the wrong tone". i do go against the game and no finesse and the bigger car and engine lost to me without a prybar
Yeah, but the heatshields needed some help from my persuasion hammer, right? It was a mother effer to get around the tranny. Thank God we'll never have to go through that again...until Tommy finally comes to his senses and gets another IS. :p
 
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