Running 2JZ-GE on stand

I can't help with the specifics on integrating the bare minimum components for the stock ECU to work, but if it were me, I'd skip the Toyota ECU altogether. There are simply too many decent choices for basic and straight-forward ECUs on the market for me to put any effort into using the Toyota unit. For example; wanna buy my Haltech E6K for $150? Already comes with a base calibration that'll run a 2JZ. Or a Microsquirt. Or a Speeduino. You get the point.

Regarding fuel system:
You're not gonna need much of a pump at all if you have no ability to load the engine up with a brake. Rather than getting a more expensive high-flow inline pump, why not just use any old in-tank pump, hose-clamp it to a stick and drop it down into a gascan...or similar...you get the idea.

I pondered my own E85 fuel filter situation after I installed the Hellcat pump into my OEM hanger - because I had to eliminate the built-in filter it had. The companies that sell fancy fuel filters all say you need to pay a bunch of money for their fancy E85 fuel filters...and that cellulose isn't suitable for E85... Ok, then why do all the OEM flex-fuel cars come with cellulose elements? I chose the most commonly available, generic WIX filter I could find - that came as original equipment on lots and lots of flex fuel production cars. I went with the WIX 33595. They cost about $10. They have the SAE quick-connect inlet/outlet, so you'd still need to buy fittings to hook up to it.

To hook your fuel system to the rail - I'd just use the standard banjo connection the fuel rail is ready for.

What is your intention/vision for this run-stand? Without a brake (and all the peripheral stuff that entails), all you can do is idle and free-rev. You'll only be able to touch about 5% of the operating envelope of the engine.

reklipz said:

Am I just wasting my time with this? Would it be a waste of time to rig up a loading system?

Click to expand...

Probably.

Depends on how much control you need to create the necessary conditions you need to collect the test data you want...and how long you want to be able to sustain those conditions. A huge variable in this is how much power you intend to generate.

Not super difficult when you're talking about 5 or 10 or even 25hp. For that you could buy an old generator with a blown engine, and plug in a bunch of 500W lightbulbs... But even just the the ~225hp a stock 2J generates is a much bigger problem - nevermind what a turbo 2J can do.

The most basic loading system is means of creating friction. But that creates heat fast. Imagine what the brakes of your car would do if you floored it at 4000rpm in 3rd gear and dragged on the brakes as required to prevent the car from increasing speed... The brakes would be red hot in 30 seconds and on fire in 60...

The most straight-forward way to tackle this is to use a water brake, which is just an inefficient water pump designed to shear/heat the water more than it actually pumps it. By controlling the inlet valve to the pump, you control how much load you put on the crankshaft. The waterbrake pumps the discharged water to a big tank - which takes a long time to heat up. To increase run-time, you can add a cooling loop to your water tank.

You can find water brake dyno setups on ebay fairly regularly but I'm pretty sure it's well beyond your intended budget. Here's a pretty nice used setup for ~$30k:

If your handy and can machine/fabricate some parts, and can bootstrap a PID control system to actuate the water valve - you can often find bare water brake absorbers on ebay for quite a bit less - but you're still looking at several thousand.

Then you have to consider facilities: location, exhaust handling, make-up air handling, fire mitigation, sound attenuation, protection from flying debris (engines break), and more.

Then there's data acquisition. Usually in a testing-scenario, you'll want more data than most ECUs are able to collect. Most engine tests create more questions than answers. You'll think up a test, run it, look over the data only to begin wondering - what if I could see my fuel flow rate? What if I could see individual cylinder exhaust temps? What if I could see individual cylinder pressure traces? Or had thermocouples on the actual intake runners, etc etc.

Sorry this got so long winded. Maybe I'm being elitist and you can achieve your objective without anything so fancy. But think through how much load you'll want to be able to put on the engine, and for how long, and what all data you'll want to collect. That will point you in the right direction.

Since I'll be going w/ a TMAP when I turbo, I decided to swap to a TMAP on the NA build, also because I have only two rough points from the FSM about the stock MAF characteristic. This is only a 1.15 bar sensor but it's available up to 6 bar and many in between (2.5, 3, 3.5, 4).

The PCV vent on the intake wye is near perfect, but I'll be remachining this bush with a slight (1.5mm) eccentric to avoid damaging the manifold. I'll have to shave the mounting boss down and some plastic on the underside of the MAP, but it's almost a direct fit and great placement. Still unsure where one would vent the PCV to in this case, but I won't be running it this way in the car so it doesn't concern me much yet. I'm all ears for suggestions though: I guess one could join it to the exhaust breather and into the port pre-throttle if nothing else. The port is ~11mm thick and exactly 20mm diameter; the TMAP is 11.85mm and I found an ~12.25mm hole fits well. The bush is ~12mm tall but should probably be ~13mm to be properly flush on both sides.

I also swapped to 1NZ coils because I'll be avoiding batched/wasted spark in the end as well, which allows me to remove the igniter from the situation.

Actually, with a little bit of sleeve retainer nothing needs modified, everything clears and fits well: I was thinking to weld this in but I'll skip that.

For the NA setup, I'll just tee the PCV to the EVAP line. All that's left before trying to turn it over is some power/ground wiring, plugging vacuum bits, and a fueling solution; given the above I plan to just run the stock pump in a small vented container. Just wanting to prove the system and that things run and can be controlled properly by rusEFI. After that, I'll start building the new blocks, finishing the front suspension overhaul, and prepping for re-install.

Some OEM Lexus engine coolant temperature sensor (CLT) characteristics from the FSM; -40° C, 20° C, 80° C, 140° C

It runs!

I started pulling apart another motor for rebuild. It was locked up, and now I know why. I believe it's from an SC300 but have not yet run the VIN. The crank bolt was the most stubborn, but the DeWalt impact gun I was able to borrow made it easy even w/o a weighted socket. Even heating the bolt with a MAPP gun and bouncing what weight I could without toppling the stand didn't budge it: this impact took three bolts out in less than 10 seconds like they were butter.





I removed the crank and then scraped the bores with a straight blade and cut a 2x down to fit over the rods onto the wrist pin bores and drove them out with a sledge. Surprisingly, #3 gave me the most trouble. I intend to use a 3-stone hone to clean them up and see how damaged they are; I'm hoping it can be re-used without boring. The bearings and journals all look just fine. I don't know what I'll do with the head, as it's non-VVT-i and DIS; is there anything good for these, does anyone want it?

Next I'll start disassembling another block and drill out the oil galleries on this one, and then hot tank them both; I might DIY this w/ a metal barrel or bin, and if I do I'll probably give one or both an electrolysis bath too. I found a machine shop that will hot tank for ~$100 a block and more to soda blast heads, but that's money I could put into other parts vs a $50 DIY setup. We'll see. I would like to establish a relationship with a machine shop anyway so this current block with the rusty cylinders might be a good candidate to start.