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Discussion Starter #121
The project has been shat upon but I'm shovelling out.

Vids to come. The stroker definitely had a throatier sound than the stock 3 liter - and my goal of bigger torque was met. Too bad I didn't have longer to enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
No quit in me.

The crank has been sent out to be ground and plated back to standard. I'm hoping that I can take the guy's word that he can finish before the end of the year. In the meantime I'm cleaning up some issues with my header and intake manifold.
 

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So sorry to hear the news, I was hoping the crank was ok at least. Sounds like it can be saved at least... happy holidays eh?

look forward to hearing more, u cant quit now.... :)




Gamz, what did u do to fix it.?

I had the same thing,, I ended up with a brand new TT block in 2006 after my built GE motor started develping the same problem, I could only get 2 weeks or about 400-500 miles before the new bearing was toast..
and the knocking started...
After the 3rd spun bearing in 2 months, Carson toyota got a call...
I went ahead and bought a VVTI Aristo swap, converted the car back to auto and I couldn't be happier. When I installed the GTE Supra motor I had lost many features like my automatic climate control stopped working / check engine lights on / no cruise control, etc... The aristo swap was awesome, the harness basically just plugs right in, all of my features work again and I really like the auto for a daily driver. With the 6 speed we had to make the shifter extra long to clear the tall center console so my hand would often hit the radio. It looks much cleaner now. My car is in true twin and all of the internal butterfly's in the exhaust and intake plumbing have been removed with new plumbing. The GS is a blast to drive on the street now, it spools so quick and spins my 315's all the way through 1st gear, it's a fun daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Thought I'd update this...

I expect my stroker crank back Friday - hope that the place doing the repairs is everything a trusted source says about it.

When I disassembled the engine more completely I found that two wrist pins were bent(!) - probably indicating hydrolocking due to mondo gasoline pouring into the intake. So new pins are on the way, and although my BC rods look straight I'm having my machine shop check them for straightness and for cracks. Pistons look good, as do the cams and top end. Upon my machine guy's suggestion, the valves are being checked for straightness. He says that if there was hydrolocking there may have been some valve damage..

The block oil gallery plugs are being removed for cleaning - although my engine is the original 40K mile unit, I am having this done because I'm convinced that debris in these passages is the reason for many newly built 2JZ failures. Tanking the block without removing the ball plugs isn't a reliable way to get these cleaned - I think it just loosens the crud and allows it to mix with the oil. Then a bad day ensues. Recently I was on the phone with a local guy who said that the bearings wore out in a short period of time after a rebuild - on 3 engines(!) and not one of them had the oil galleries opened and cleaned. This is about the 5th person I've heard this story from, and am taking no chances.

My block is also being checked for deck straightness, having ARP main studs installed with crank saddles checked for bore straightness, and rehoned for the the new rings.

I have found cracks starting on the welds of my intake manifold, and am having it rebuilt to correct that and make up for other design flaws I've found.

If I can count on ETAs given me , I will be assembling the engine next week.
I'm stoked to finally be on the way to getting my car back!
 

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HOORAY.. .great ot hear the good news RIck.


now if shaun and i can just get my damn engine running right again... we will finally start working out the details of "The Project" and get some posts up about what it is and whos behind it & how it performs...

With my travel schedule being a bitch lately & his deadline for re-deployment looming,... we are very pressed for time to trouble shoot this bastard together & I have basically 2 weeks to figure it out then I am on my own.....



:(
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Machine work is done. Block oil plugs were removed (they welded a chain onto plugs on one side, pulled out the plugs with a slide hammer, then used a long rod to punch out the balls on the other side. They were a little hard for drilling/tapping). The block holes were then tapped NPT and threaded plugs were screwed in. I have a report that they found a fair amount of loose crud in there.

Bearings, rings, wrist pins are ordered, still awaiting the crank.

Edgy, get that thing going so you can move on to the fun stuff!
 

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Hey Rick, I had the same issues, I think I went through 3 motors and we did pull those oil plugs too and did everything we could to clear the block of debris, also we put in a new crank too and it still spun bearings after 100 miles! The only thing that fixed my car was installing a new JSPEC motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
On my original engine failure - remember that I had about 2 quarts of gasoline in the oil pan. Not so conducive to good oiling.

Here's the culprit - the diaphragm from the Aeromotive FPR with a slit in it - I put it on a flashlight to highlight the gap.

That said, I'm also taking no chances with block preparation.

 

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FYI I was referring to the other 5 people, I knew your motor was a FPR issue.

We think my block had a crack somewhere internal in one of the oil passages. What a nightmare that was!

I'll be updating on the GS soon, it's being set up to go fast in the 1/4 mile!

Recently I was on the phone with a local guy who said that the bearings wore out in a short period of time after a rebuild - on 3 engines(!) and not one of them had the oil galleries opened and cleaned. This is about the 5th person I've heard this story from, and am taking no chances.
 

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damn guys ... no wonder when i started having the same problem the best answer the shop could think of was ...... New GTE block!


not JSPEC...but brand spanking new

2k+ later i was rocking & rolling...


Yeah rick believe me i am chomping at the bit.... this damn misfire issue has beena freeking PAIN it came from nowhere & has been a problem since the 1st day i drove the car it just started missing after running fine for 2 hours when i took the car out for a drive after getting the new cams, injectors, H20 pump & timing belt installed...


Shaun has helped me eliminate several possible causes and we are narrowing it down... what felt exactly like a fuel cut off/fuel feed is actually looking like an ECU/ ignition timing issue The ECU is swinging timing to 66 deg. suddenly & then back down.... something is causing my ECU to go APESHIT with ignition timing so we are looking at cam & crank sensors now...




http://my.is/forums/f114/intermittent-fuel-feed-issue-any-ideas-438319/index2.html




hopefully we are close....

any ideas would help....

sorry for semithread jackin ya ,....B.O.T.
 

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why would you spin a bearing only after replacing the internals? had you spun a bearing and thats why you were replacing the internals in the first place?

More importantly, how do I prevent this for when I put in GTE internals? Is it just the oil galleries?
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Time for an update - No, it's still not done.

My stroker crank is done, ground down and welded with a nickle-chrome alloy and ground back to standard. Still awaiting wrist pins. My machine shop ordered them from JE 2 months ago - we recently cancelled the order and are getting them done somewhere else.

I have bearings, rings, gaskets - all I need is the damn wrist pins and I'm all good. Frustrating to say the least. My choice of teflon buttons , and older and less common retaining technique, is complicating things - my pistons have no pin retainer grooves. I let my shop guy talk me into getting them from JE when we should have just gone back to the original source.

"While I'm at it" has set in. I have acquired HKS 272s and will be setting them up in the head in the next few days.

The intake manifold is ready to go - seems that the person who originally built it for the PO used a nice 1/4" thick Ross Machine extrusion, but welded a wimpy 1/16" side piece on. Oilcan city with boost and vacuum. That side now has been replaced with a 1/4" piece.

In response to all the comments about new engines failing, Lack of cleanliness of the oil passages and in general throughout the assembly has to be the leading suspect. Obviously, If the engine is clean, has correct tolerances, and has adequate oiling, it should be good. There's no magic here.

Ed, I am looking forward to hearing that you have solved your problem...We got stuff to do.

Hope to be reporting a complete engine soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Woot! Hellafunctional! Hope you don't mind me using that.
 

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Hey Rick, so the crankshaft saga has been resolved...
Glad to hear it.. You'll like those 272's, I kinda wish I would have stayed with them instead of going with the 280's... There's always a next time though ;)
Mike
 

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Hey Rick, how are those LS2 coils working out for you? Still recommend them more than the stock supra ones? Have you looked into the red super spark ones?

- Hiral
 

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Hey Rick, how are those LS2 coils working out for you? Still recommend them more than the stock supra ones? Have you looked into the red super spark ones?

- Hiral
I will be installing LQ9's this weekend and will do a write up and how much i gained from just the coil packs. I am not sure but rick might have switched to LQ9's also.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
I did have the LQ9s on my car and they worked well - right up to the point where the FPR took a dump. Definitely will go back on the car if I can EVER get some wrist pins.

I've been talking to several guys who have used the red super sparks and most have given them a thumbs down. At best they are reported to be about as good as the stockers, and at worst they have durability problems.

According to my internet research, the LQ9s are capable of spark output power that is around 1.5 times what the GTE coils w/DLI can make. I still plan to devise a scientific measurement method for verifying this. From personal experience with a local racer, the LQ9s have been proven to support near 1000 hp at ~30 psi. These coils can run up to 5MS of dwell, allowing a nice fat charge to fire the plugs.

Yeah Mike, I have rethought my plan to keep the 264s, and with Scottie's 272s available, I couldn't resist. I think the low end torque will still be there with the 94mm stroke and big cams.

Jon, Looking forward to hearing how your install goes, and what the results will be.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
BTW, these coils were not installed on LS2s. Probably the correct nomenclature is LQ9, the truck engine that they originally came on.
 
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