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Discussion Starter #81
My pistons' thermal barrier coated tops are not helping their warmup time. Piston to wall clearance was set at .005", versus Venolia's recommended .0065-.0075"! I have found that with TFE coated skirts and the thermal barrier tops that clearances can be reduced, but with these pistons you will have to live with some cold slap.

And the stalling takes place around 1800 rpm when cold, just the point where the J&S cuts in.

I'm looking at using a coolant temp output from the Haltech to operate an analog switch that inhibits the knock sensors' inputs to the J&S until the pistons get some heat in them. Piston slap audibly disappears (along with J&S knock indication going away) soon after coolant temp reaches its operating point of 200 degrees or so.

I knew there would be some tradeoffs in cold operation with the forged pistons, and rough cold running makes my noisy-ass clutch rattle more (which also makes false knock indications), sort of a vicious cycle. All is good when warmed up though, so the anticipated tradeoff of "rudeness" for robustness is worth it to me. And I'm confident I can improve this condition somewhat with electronics and tuning.

After all, these cars tend to be R&D projects, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
And it was good to be at the meet with a car for a change - and meeting everyone. The Orlando posse is a good group of guys.

Kaldes, enough screwing off. Lets get that turbo on.
 

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I'm looking at using a coolant temp output from the Haltech to operate an analog switch that inhibits the knock sensors' inputs to the J&S until the pistons get some heat in them. Piston slap audibly disappears (along with J&S knock indication going away) soon after coolant temp reaches its operating point of 200 degrees or so.

I knew there would be some tradeoffs in cold operation with the forged pistons, and rough cold running makes my noisy-ass clutch rattle more (which also makes false knock indications), sort of a vicious cycle. All is good when warmed up though, so the anticipated tradeoff of "rudeness" for robustness is worth it to me. And I'm confident I can improve this condition somewhat with electronics and tuning.

After all, these cars tend to be R&D projects, right?
Using the coolant temperature should work but to expand on your idea, have you thought about using a hobbs pressure switch instead? Connect the knock sensor to 1 terminal, the J&S to another terminal, and once there's lets say 1 lb of pressure, allow the signal to go to the J&S. You'll save an output for future R&D!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
rick i suspect you made it back ok
Not a problem. There may have been a concern with the rough running when I left last night - The car has only been driveable for a couple days and still needs work on the cold start/warmup tuning. Once warmed up its almost perfect.

My laptop will be my companion for a few more days.
 

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I didn't know you were over at Waterford last night, I would have met you there. Good luck with the stalling issue, were you able to verify that the J&S is pulling timing causing the stall? Also Rick any luck dropping my parts with the welder?
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Had a setback Sunday - with cold start/ warmup & street tuning almost done and everything working well, drove it to the shop, hitting 16 psi a couple times and feeling good. I did no work on the car while there, but when I was ready to leave it started but didn't want to stay running - All sensors working, crank and cam signals good, timing still spot on - indication was way too rich. Dorked around with it and all I managed to do was foul the plugs.

With new plugs (old ones uniformly sooty) , found that injector pulsewith is almost down to minimum but the wideband is still reading way rich. This reminds me of when my cam gear lost several teeth and cam timing was way off. Cam timing is also spot on, however. There are no funny noises from the engine. The coils are still making big fat purple sparks across .035" gaps.

I've done some basic checks this week but need to back away from this for a while. Next is compression/leakdown checks and I'm dreading those results. Hoping for an EMS problem, but troubleshooting is taking a mechanical direction. I'm pretty much a pessimist in these situations - that way, things can only be better than I think.

I doesn't help that time to work on this thing is limited, with customer work and the "real' job taking priority. Not to mention that I was sure that the car was very close to being "finished". I'll stop whining now.

Bigkahuna, come up and sit in my car with me while I bounce up and down in the driver's seat, whip the steering wheel back and forth, and make motor noises.
 

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That will really blows if thats the case Rick, I'm hoping you are wrong. At least you can always put your old motor back into it, nothing wrong with that one. Someone has to be the first to test out new parts like your one off stroker kit / LS1 coils. If your suspicions are correct this sort of thing comes with the territory when you're the guinea pig.
 

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this thing has more history than a 92 civic hatch from so cal for sale on honda-tech

nice car..and nice patience running through the bugs
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Well, The motor's coming out. The oil burning/blowby problem returned, and there's something going on in the valvetrain.

The blowby problem almost has to be oil control. Cylinder bores were checked from the machine shop and found to be perfectly within the piston maker's spec - the supplied rings or their piston ring groove fit are probably the culprit. During assembly the rings did not have the ususal free fit in the pistons - they would go into the grooves and compress OK, but did not rotate freely like they should - and I decided to go ahead with it anyway. Like any other time I've decided to take a short cut, this rose up to bite. Never time to do it right, always time to do it over. Seems like at my age I should have this lesson down pat.

I have also found that the rear (unused by me) cam sensor paddle on the intake cam broken off and God knows where it landed -

I'll be a pullin' the engine this weekend and not happy about it. Like always, though, the IS will be back better than ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Finally got back to the car after some business travel and taking care of some neglected household tasks - had to get the right mental attitude before diving in again.

Compression and leakdown tests indicate bad ring seal - compression varies from 125-160 and some cylinders's leakage is as much as 25%. Engine has to come out. With that established, I ran some tests to make sure the newly fixed motor (when it IS newly fixed) would start/run with no issues -

Pulled the plugs and they are really black - While checking timing (still good) and the coils for spark, noticed raw gas shooting out the spark plug holes! Bad Aeromotive regulator is allowing leakage into the manifold from the reference port. OK, that explains the rich condition - and maybe the bad ring seal. I am now officially worried about the whole bottom end, but really don't think that there has been very much gasoline dilution of the oil , as oil level has not risen significantly, and no gas smell in the oil. The car runs so badly with a leaking regulator that I'm sure there has been very little running time in that condition, but I'm now anxious to get the engine out and torn down to asses damage.

As if that isn't enough, I continued a thorough test of the EMS. After pulling the fuel pumps' power and checking coils, found that coils for cylinders 3 and 5 are not firing. Coils are not the issue as swapping with known good coils is no help. The LS truck coils (even the ones swapped from bad to good channels) are still producing angry purple sparks. Scoping directly on the Haltech harness shows no signal on the bad ignition channels - Rebooting the ECU and reloading maps and firmware no help. Removed the J&S from the circuit and still no help. So ECU goes to Haltech for repair. That probably explains a rather rough time I had with initial setup and tuning. I think my PS2000 was a little wonky from the beginning.

The devil car is certainly living up to its reputation, but it will not beat me.

Updates coming.
 

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Well, the A/C is fixed and now it keeps the belt on - The turbo oil restricter (homemade from a .023" MIG tip screwed into an AN fitting, then filed down) is installed and no more oil blowing from the turbo, although there is still some oil smoke in the exhaust that I hope will be gone after rings have worn in...Idle and free-rev tuning resumed, and I find that the smoother I get the idle, the quieter my Tilton clutch's rattle becomes. That noise level is very tolerable now - it had me concerned initially. My LS2 truck coils -on plugs- working well. Before I can even pull out of the garage it overheats and the radiator overflow tube starts gushing. Damn electric fan has failed and put a nice mark on my brand new Koyo radiator. I've ordered a new Flex-a-Lite dual fan - should be here this afternoon.

Very frustrating - I have limited time to work on this thing and keep having stupid things to fix.

Delayed gratification sucks.
Hey speeder
Which is you model flex-a-lite dual fan fit a radiator koyo?
S-Blade low profile 410 or 420 or 425?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I used the 420 -S-blade , puller, no thermostat. (used the stock fan control system). Had to make some simple aluminum brackets to mount this to the Koyo radiator - I hate those through the core straps.


-Rick
 

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Any video's of this monster? I would love to see it...
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Videos will be produced when I finish redoing the engine and dyno it. I found that my Aeromotive FPR had developed a hole in the diaphagm and was shooting raw gas into the intake from the FPR reference port. I'm pretty sure the rings got trashed before I was aware of this particular problem. I was way too slow in suspecting a problem with fuel , as the pressure on the in-cockpit gauge was good, while my tune was getting inexplicably rich. Looks like what started as a small hole in the diaphragm grew progressively.

This happened back in September and I have not had the time to pull the engine (and am afraid of what the bearings and the stroker crank might look like due to oil dilution). Maybe that fear has caused me to procrastinate, too.

Looks as if I will get back to this pretty soon - If (God forbid) the crank is hosed I will put my old short block (gte rods/pistons) back in with the new worked head while making a decision on redoing the stroker.

Stay tuned. I'm down but by no means defeated.
 
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