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I just recieved my Ltuned exhaust from Carson Toyota today. The second I got it I immediatly went to work. I jacked the car up and thought it would be an easy job. Boy was I wrong, the bolts were not to bad with the torque wrench and they came off rather easily but one was in a hard to reach location. The pain for me was the hangers, I had to wedge screw drivers in there to get them off. Well anyways it took me 1 hour and I finally got it on. I am all scratched up and sore from being on my back but I am happy. Well to the review. I got it on and it definately looks alot better than the stock one. It has a nice size tip and the whole system is stainless steal. I started it up and it sounded just like idle. When I took it for a drive, it sounded the same at first inside the car so I decided to floor it. I was very impressed with the amount of gains just from an axle back. The rpms climbed ALOT quicker which surprized me but it only sounded a little deeper at WOT. When I was coming back the sound like totally changed. The tone was alot deeper which I liked and it had a pleasent but not annoying drone. I think it is a little louder too now. Well I have to say that I love the look of it and I love the gains it gives. If anyone is looking for an exhaust that is not overly loud but sounds deep and gives good power, I would suggest this. I am very happy with it. It is raining now but when it stops and gets sunny I will take pictures and audio clips.
-Andrew
 

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o.o post the clips.

i am installing my hks hiper next month, so i will be prepare for that 1 hr installment.
 

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how much is carson asking for the ltuned exhaust? do they have them in stock all the time? and what's the deal with the extended tip? do you have to pay extra for that?

thanks!
chris
 

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was getting the stock exhaust really that hard to do? I was thinking of doing it on my own and i don't even have a torque wrench....is this a problem?
 

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IS300Sam said:
was getting the stock exhaust really that hard to do? I was thinking of doing it on my own and i don't even have a torque wrench....is this a problem?
It's not technically hard. It's just physically hard. Use some liquid wrench or a breaker bar to get the bolts off. I don't know why one would use a torque wrench to take bolts off, I thought it was only used to put them on at the correct torque specs.

I had a set of ramps to get the car's ass up and made the task much easier than using my jacks IMHO. I did have someone guide me so I won't drive off the ramps...

-crontab -l
 

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thats a good idea to get ramps......would you reccomend i buy those over jack stands?? Also, is there and special stuff i should you on the hangs to help the rods slide out of the rubber deals??
 

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Hmm, I would recommend that you get both if you have the space. Or borrow them from a friend. Jacks have their advantages, ramps have their advantages. You can't change tires with your ramps... heh There may be another method, but I'm not sure if people will want to do it. Drive the passenger side of the car up a curb, like from drive way entrance up on to a curb. I do that with my beater to change oil and there's ample space to move around and do stuff. But that depends on the curb of course. But some people may not want to do that to their IS, I never will...

Although I've read that WD40 may be harmful to the hangers, that's what I used. That's what the mechanics tell me to use on cars at the shop I help out at, so that's what I did to my car. Spray it down, let it seep and soak through, get a thin flat head and pry it off.

-crontab -e
 

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The rubber hangers are very elastic. So what you have to do is insert a thin screwdriver, then just use it as a lever to push out the exhaust. It helps when you have someone holding the exhaust too.

I used ramps and it worked well. If you are just changing from the axle back it is very easy. If you change the whole thing the crawlspace will be very tight if you have a drop.

When I changed it I thought I'd just put the ramp the front up, but that wasn't possible because my front fender hit the ramp before the tire did and it would've scratched it.

IMO driving the car on the curb is getto :shame:

Go to autozone and rent your tools.
 

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will you explain how to use the screw drive to pry it out? Does the screwdrive just make the hole bigger or what? I know they have like little head on the end, is it too hard to just yank those through....
 

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IS300Sam said:
will you explain how to use the screw drive to pry it out? Does the screwdrive just make the hole bigger or what? I know they have like little head on the end, is it too hard to just yank those through....
you make the hole bigger by inserting the screwdriver all the way until it comes out the other side. You wedge it in there as hard as you can :lol:

then either pull the screwdriver from both ends to make the hole bigger, or pull from one side while pushing out the exhaust.

a thin screwdriver works best.
 

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manawar300 said:
609 plus 10 for shipping from carson. they had to order it and it took a week because they didnt have it in stock
He didn't charge you tax? I'm debating on whether to go L-Tuned or L-Sportline...leaning towards L-Sportline for I'm thinking about the L-Sportline kit.
 

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crontab said:
It's not technically hard. It's just physically hard. Use some liquid wrench or a breaker bar to get the bolts off. I don't know why one would use a torque wrench to take bolts off, I thought it was only used to put them on at the correct torque specs.

I had a set of ramps to get the car's ass up and made the task much easier than using my jacks IMHO. I did have someone guide me so I won't drive off the ramps...

-crontab -l
I used a torque wrench not because its a torque wrench, but because its the longest wrench I have and gives me the most leverage :lol:

I posted that I used my torque wrench to install my exhaust a while ago, but people may have mis understood my point. I used it because it is long. You also have to be carefull if you use your torque wrench not to screw up the calibration and end up with inaccurate measurements.

I used WD-40 on my hangers too, but you should be able to use grease or silicon based lube as well. It makes all the difference when trying to take those hangers off. I also tried using the screwdriver method to pry it off, but didn't have too much success. The easiest way is to lube it up, and take an adjustable set a pliers (or large pliers) and put one side on the end of the hanger post and the other side behind the hanger and squeeze, it should pop the hanger over that end cap. At the time I was doing it, I was ghetto and used my hands. Thumb on the end of the post, fingers behind the hanger and pulled. It worked though :lol:
 
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